My 89 XJ Overland Build - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 21 Old 11-26-2019, 06:23 PM Thread Starter
curtis2010
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My 89 XJ Overland Build

Finally got started renovating/building my good old XJ for overland use here in the Western Highlands of Panama.

First steps: repair the old floor pans (moslty using fiberglass), prep and shoot w epoxy primer, then shoot Raptor Liner.

Raptor Liner is now curing. Very happy w how it turned out.

A few pics attached. Will update as a move along slowly.



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post #2 of 21 Old 11-29-2019, 04:03 PM Thread Starter
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Old interior trim pieces, originally grey, were worn and UV damaged. Refinished in black. Reinstalling today.

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post #3 of 21 Old 11-29-2019, 04:06 PM Thread Starter
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A driver's side rear interior trim piece was worn thru by years of chaffing by the spare tire. I backed the hole w fiberglass, filled w body filler, and repainted. Looks pretty good.

Plan is to remount tire on rear bumper swing arm which eliminates this issue and frees up space.



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post #4 of 21 Old 11-30-2019, 07:49 AM
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post #5 of 21 Old 11-30-2019, 09:44 AM Thread Starter
curtis2010
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Stripped old roof rack off today, which requires first removing head liner, it was no longer secure as most of the internal nuts had backed off...due to this and old seals it was leaking rainwater internally. It was gonna remove itself soon anyway!

Plan is to fill and fare the holes then have a heavier duty, gutter mounted, roof rack fabricated locally. Good inexpensive machine shops here. Plan to have removable forward section of rack that extends over hood and secures to front bumper for transporting sea kayaks...beautiful kayaking areas here on both coasts (Atlantic & Pacific)...we can be launching on the Pacific coast in 2 hours from here.

Link to video of kayaking in Golfo de Chiriqui on Panama's Pacific coast.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/h0bp7tzq45...05_HD.mp4?dl=0




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post #6 of 21 Old 11-30-2019, 09:45 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ddraeg View Post
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post #7 of 21 Old 11-30-2019, 03:28 PM Thread Starter
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Discovered that all but a few of the roof rack mounting holes are in inaccessible locations on the inside (...or at best very difficult to access). The larger holes for the side rails are all behind the internal framing of the roof section...just barely accessible w a wrench to get the few remaining nuts off...forget trying to prep for weld/braze/glassing. This nixed my plan for backing the holes from the inside. All but 4 of the holes for the smaller runners are cleverly positioned behind roof cross members. Geez...like it was an intentional design to make them hard to access.

So...plan B. The small holes for the runner mount screws are no bigger than what you would have in a panel after pulling dents w a slide hammer anyway so no real need to back them...filler will handle that fine. I used a punch to turn each hole into a shallow divet to better hold filler, ground the hole area to bare metal, filled w body filler (pressing firmly to get some thru the screw hole).

The larger holes for the side rails really needed backing. I placed the rouned end of a ball penn hammer in the hole, and whacked the other end w another hammer, to make the larger holes into a shallow divets too. Ground them out to bare metal and then I laid up a small piece of fiberglass matt in each one. Will use a dab of body filler on each for fairing.

I chose to use fiberglass because I had it handy. Welding or brazing would have worked on the bigger holes too...though the heat of welding could distort/burn thru such thin material.

Next steps: wait for all this to cure, fare it, prime it.

Pics:

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post #8 of 21 Old 12-01-2019, 06:52 PM Thread Starter
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More details on the Raptor Liner:

Turns out the kit sold as 4 liters (4 bottles of resin) actual only contains about 750ml per bottle. Their advertised total area of coverge for the total kit is correct, just the actual bottle contents are less than a liter. They advertise areas of coverage of about 12 sq meters (129 sq ft) total so about 30 sq ft per bottle. The approximate 2 dimensional size (just L x W, not including irregular shapes) of an XJ floor pan is about 45 sq ft. So its takes about 2.5 bottles for 2 coat coverage. Since using their system you mix one full bottle at a time (you could mix a partial bottle, just less convenient) you are going to burn 3 bottles anyway if you follow their instructions. I didnt want to mess with mixing a partial bottle and wanted thicker coverage on high traffic areas so I did 2 coats on the entire floor pan and finished off the last 1/2 bottle for thicker coverage on high traffic areas.

Their mix a full bottle at a time system is very convenient, but it also means you need to shoot a full bottle at a time. The spec pot life is one hour, and the flash off time per coat is one hour...so once a full bottle is catalyzed you cant wait and use it to shoot a second coat...you've got to shoot that whole bottle in under an hour or its going to set up in your gun...not good. Again, you could work around this by mixing partial bottles, just less convenient.

Laquer thinner works as a solvent for cleaning up uncatalyzed resin or resin that has not yet set. Clean the included Schutz gun between bottles and after the last shoot. Its a very simple gun with large bore channels so its easy to clean. Just put the siphon end in about 6oz of laquer thinner and shoot till its gone. This cleans the channels. Wipe down the rest with a rag wetted in thinner.

Overall they have made a very easy to use system and the final results look great...long term TBD.




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post #9 of 21 Old 12-02-2019, 07:19 AM Thread Starter
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Some before pics I forgot to post.

Floor pans had a few rusted thru spots and lots of surface rust. Much of which was due to the leaky roof rack. I spent a lot of quality time in there with a wire wheel on an angle grinder.

Saftey note: wear a full face shield (not just safety glasses) , heavy gloves, and heavy clothing when running a wire wheel. It sheds bits of wire when you work it hard and those become little sharp projectiles...Im still picking them out of the head liner!



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post #10 of 21 Old 12-03-2019, 02:45 PM Thread Starter
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Getting the old seats ready to go back in. For original 30 year old seats they are in pretty good shape. Biggest issue was bad corrossion on passenger side mounting base. No problem, local machine shop replaced that section almost good as new! Other than that, just surface rust on the frames. Rust busting and repainting now. Plan to cover w good quality seat covers just to dress it up a little.

UPOL recommends allowing 7 days for Raptor Liner to fully cure before putting any heavy loads on it...which is why Ive waited to put the seats back in.

Looking forward to at least getting the driver's side back in as it will be an upgrade to my current bucket seat.




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post #11 of 21 Old 12-04-2019, 11:20 AM Thread Starter
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Another seat related note:

The studs which hold the front passenger seat (same type for driver side) were badly corroded and needed replacing. Not a common item, but you can find them at the link below:

https://teamcherokee.com/front-seat-...che-1984-2001/



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post #12 of 21 Old 12-04-2019, 11:30 AM Thread Starter
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Wire harness related:

One of my concers with shooting the entire floor pan w liner was what wire harness sections would need to be re-routed. Turned out there were only two. One is very near the firewall on the driver's side and is very easy just to secure a bit higher on the firewall. The other is routed under the carpet in front of the driver side rear seat. It includes the driver side seat belt alarm (the 89 XJ only has an alarm on the driver side) and center console lighting. Seems a bit suboptimal as these all ultimately find their way back to the firewall area, but they probably had a reason...which I will likely discivover when I reroute. The fuel pump/gauge is also part of this leg, but it mostly runs under the rear seat and driver side trim.

I need to use the Jeep soon so am just going to bundle it all in place for now.





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post #13 of 21 Old 12-04-2019, 11:32 AM Thread Starter
curtis2010
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Center console:

Its in good condition and no serious mods planned for now, so just clean up, rust bust some metal parts, and reinstall.

I did remove the old rear ashtray while I was at it (just drill out 2 rivets). My plan is to replace w USB plugs and an LED courtesy light.



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post #14 of 21 Old 12-04-2019, 02:25 PM Thread Starter
curtis2010
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More on center console:

Removing and reinstalling the center console is a bit of a jig saw puzzle. There are a number of YouTube videos on the subject, like the one below, to get you started. Watch the videos, work gentely w the plastic inserts, bag/tag all the small parts, and all should go well.


Just reinstalled mine today.

A couple of things I did not anticipate: One, the gap between the console and the transmission tunnel (wrote it out..."tranny tunnel" just sounds wrong! ) is wider than I expected in the abscence of carpet. Also, it does not fully cover the transfer case lever opening. No big deal in my case since Im not going for a show car finish, but something to be aware of if you do this.

Center console and driver seat now reinstalled.



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post #15 of 21 Old 12-07-2019, 06:38 AM Thread Starter
curtis2010
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Another note on Raptor Liner:

When I reinstalled my interior trim I discovered that I hadnt taken the edge of the Raptor Liner quite high enough in a few small spots so that the edge was visible under the trim. I sprayed these with flat black paint and, since they are very small and partially covered, its not noticeable. However, having a can of Raptor Liner aresol would have been a better solution. Next time I shoot Raptor Liner I will order a can of that too. Also handy for touch ups...Raptor Liner is tough, but not indestructable.


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