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post #241 of 380 Old 06-07-2010, 09:32 AM Thread Starter
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Speaking of fill times, my dad took the ranger pulling our boat to the lake last week. When he got back I looked at the tires and was like.. you probably should have filled those first. I put a gauge on them, 12, 12, 16, 18.

The sanden a/c compressor with a 5 gallon tank filled each tire to 30psi in 10-15 seconds. Granted they are 225/75/15.


_=====o000o
//__l_l_,\____\,____
l_--\_l__l_/--|lllll|
_.(o)_)__.(o)_)--o-)_)
"Dee", a Patriot Blue 2001 Cherokee Sport 4.0L High-Output
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perfect depends on how far away you are when you look at it:D
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Originally Posted by Millermagic View Post
It's a 4.0 ... as long as there's something in the crank case that isn't coolant I'm sure it will still run forever.
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post #242 of 380 Old 06-07-2010, 03:37 PM Thread Starter
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OK I tested a tire fillup straight from the compressor.

The air down took longer than the air up. I had to hook the chuck to the tire and connect my male to male adapter to the end to let air out. I have never had to air down before, so I it took me a minute to figure out how to do it.

Got it down to 16, I thought that was close enough.


Hooked it up, timed 1:30. I figured that would be close enough. REsulting pressure, 32psi.


so 16-32 psi in 1:30 isn't bad for the price. The compressor was a little warm, VERY far from hot.. it just wasn't cold. The hose at the output of the compressor was warmer though. That is expected, all the air friction from compressing.

The gauge on the compressor seems to read 5-6 psi low. Hence the digital unit.

_=====o000o
//__l_l_,\____\,____
l_--\_l__l_/--|lllll|
_.(o)_)__.(o)_)--o-)_)
"Dee", a Patriot Blue 2001 Cherokee Sport 4.0L High-Output
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"Live Free Or Die; Death Is Not The Worst of Evils." -General John Stark
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Originally Posted by speedbucket View Post
perfect depends on how far away you are when you look at it:D
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Originally Posted by Millermagic View Post
It's a 4.0 ... as long as there's something in the crank case that isn't coolant I'm sure it will still run forever.
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post #243 of 380 Old 06-11-2010, 04:44 PM Thread Starter
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Okey dokey

Last saturday I replaced the evaporator (big crack), accumulator, and hose assembly. Sunday I take it to valvoline (only place open) to get it charged. They fill it, but the comrpessor just cycles on and off (wont stay on). The guy is nice and doesn't charge me for the work.

So yesterday I dropped off the jeep at our local mechanic to check it out. So today he calls and says the liquid line is clogged, and he couldn't get to it today most likely. So I asked him to evacuate the system and replace the part myself.

So I go to napa, buy the $46 part, pick up the jeep (no charge for the checkup and evac), go home, swap the lines.. which was a pita because the condenser side wasn't cooperating..

Then I go to valvoline to get the system filled. I picked valvoline, because they can get to it fast. They are more $$ but I needed speed.

So the first one I go to , the guy isn't there to run the a/c machine, so I go to another (meet the same guy there, lol, he was covering a guys shift at the other at the time apparently) they take me in, and I say f-it I wanted to change the oil before I leave anyway, so i have them do it (convinence). They do that, hook up the a/c machine.. I sit around for a half hour watching a hot redhead change some people's oil (im a sucker for readheads). Then they tell me the machine is messing up! They can't get more than .8lbs in. so they dont charge me for the a/c part and I go to another one.

I get there, and I tell them whats up, I fire it up, and the compressor is not kicking on. They guy doesn't want to charge it if the compressor won't come on. I say its low on freon it just needs more. His guage shows pressure at the accumulator though. The guy is nice and says he will, so long as I sign something voiding their warranty on a/c service, etc... I fiddle for a few minutes and the compressor still won't come on.

Finnally I say thanks anyway, head home and break out the volt meter. Check things to make sure everyhting seems ok.
The low pressure switch is the culprit for the compressor not kicking in. I have 25psi on the low side, I am not sure if that is enough to trigger it. So I find out its an $18 part. I might as well replace it then.

Some more driving around tells me I can't get one till next week.

I take it back to valvoline, tell the guy I can jump the switch, and I would like him to fill it.
He says he can't, his boss is in a meeting, and if he clears it with him he will tomrrow morning though. I say I dont know if I want to mess with it any more (I am past the point of wanting to shoot the f***er, lol.. I had my hopes on a/c for the past week). I thank him anyway, and drive away.

I think to myself, ok.. if I have to I can jumper the switch, and get a can and fill it up the rest of the way myself. I might have to turn the system on and off manually to make sure I dont ice it up though. But ill risk it.

Go to target, get a 14oz can (i need about 7oz, if the guy put .8 lbs in eariler) and a cold rootbeer to calm my nerves (i am pretty fed up with today.. some other non jeep stuff went wrong too).

Rootbeer tastes great. I get home, hook up the can, push the button... 3 seconds later the compressor kicks on! then it kicks off, and then back on, and stays on. I take the can off, check pressure (i have a low side gauge lying around). A tad low for the ambient temperature, so I give it another second or two of stuff. Now the pressure is just right, the compressor is running fine, and its blowing cold air!

At this point I give a little shout and do a white guy victory dance while my cat stares at me funny.

So.. it was just still low after all !

I think ill replace the switch at some point for the heck of it. I have replaced everything but the compressor, condenser, and the high and low switches already anyway.

So now I am happy as hell! I get A/C on my 650 mile trip to Kiawah SC, and I wasn't charged for anything! I have only payed for the parts I replaced myself, and a can of r134a!

_=====o000o
//__l_l_,\____\,____
l_--\_l__l_/--|lllll|
_.(o)_)__.(o)_)--o-)_)
"Dee", a Patriot Blue 2001 Cherokee Sport 4.0L High-Output
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"Live Free Or Die; Death Is Not The Worst of Evils." -General John Stark
Quote:
Originally Posted by speedbucket View Post
perfect depends on how far away you are when you look at it:D
Quote:
Originally Posted by Millermagic View Post
It's a 4.0 ... as long as there's something in the crank case that isn't coolant I'm sure it will still run forever.
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post #244 of 380 Old 06-12-2010, 01:23 AM
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Now tell me one thing, if you could go back and redo it again, would you have a shop do it, or do things the same way?

Waggy 44s, chromo shafts, 4.88s, spools, mid arm 3 link, 35" kevlars

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post #245 of 380 Old 06-12-2010, 07:05 AM Thread Starter
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Now tell me one thing, if you could go back and redo it again, would you have a shop do it, or do things the same way?
Well given all the fuss i had, I wouldn't do it exactly the same, I would replace any part that could be questionable.

But yes I would do it myself. NO WAY i would pay the kinda money it would cost to have a shop do it all. The whole thing (replacing the parts) really wasn't that bad. If i had to do it again I would get a friend to help though. Someone to talk to if nothing else.

No to mention I know what I am doing now, lol.

_=====o000o
//__l_l_,\____\,____
l_--\_l__l_/--|lllll|
_.(o)_)__.(o)_)--o-)_)
"Dee", a Patriot Blue 2001 Cherokee Sport 4.0L High-Output
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"Live Free Or Die; Death Is Not The Worst of Evils." -General John Stark
Quote:
Originally Posted by speedbucket View Post
perfect depends on how far away you are when you look at it:D
Quote:
Originally Posted by Millermagic View Post
It's a 4.0 ... as long as there's something in the crank case that isn't coolant I'm sure it will still run forever.
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post #246 of 380 Old 06-20-2010, 08:59 PM Thread Starter
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Got back from vacation yesterday.

Engine cooling was significanly more a problem than I last though .. and the temp gauge is near useless. The needle goes to one dash over 210, and stops... then at some temperature it pegs to the redline. If/when it cools at some point it pegs back to the dash over 210. If it gets real hot it pegs 260. So I really dont know what the temperature is over 220 or so.

The tranny cooler worked great though. Tranny stayed completely manageable, even with the engine crying for cooling.

Time for a new radiator pronto, and a water pump for good measure. Ill do some poking in the morning and check the oil for water.. I have a 0331 head that I hope pulled though the overheat.

On the way to kiawah (630 miles) the if I kept it under 65mph it would only jump to red after the a/c was on for a while, or if I was going up a hill passing or something like that.. Turn the a/c off (or go down hill / flat) and it would cool down.. Did that the whole way there.

On the way back though it was more tempermental. Most hills would cause it to go red. We took a bypass on 25/70 instead of I-40 though the mountains that we knew was practically stopped. The detour kept the speed 45-55mph and I had almost no issues up and down hills of all grades with the a/c on.

The second half (back on the highway) however it was pretty much all in the red. And the last bit in Kentucky on I-75 and 64 were windows down no a/c going 63mph and it would rarely go out of the red, only on some downhills.. and there are only slow rolling hills here. Note that by this point ambient temps were bit cooler than SC and was in the evening. OH, I did have two bikes on a carrier on the back adding drag.

SO.. yeah... I just hope the 4.0 came out OK. I am going to get a radiator this week, and new water pump. Those should be the only problems with the cooling system. (water pump should be good anyway).

I need to go out and inspect the oil tomorrow for water (hopefully the head is still good). She still runs great, sounds fine, no dash lights.


On a side note, talk about some major heat soak fuel vapor lock problems!! Restarting after getting gas, or stopping for lunch or w/e without some prep work would result in really rough idle, stumble, 0 power, and stalling out. You would have to start it and floor it.. it may still die out, and take 2 tries for it to rev.
Later I figured out that if I let the fuel pump prime a few times, and left the aux fan on (engine off) for a minute it would start no problem.

_=====o000o
//__l_l_,\____\,____
l_--\_l__l_/--|lllll|
_.(o)_)__.(o)_)--o-)_)
"Dee", a Patriot Blue 2001 Cherokee Sport 4.0L High-Output
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"Live Free Or Die; Death Is Not The Worst of Evils." -General John Stark
Quote:
Originally Posted by speedbucket View Post
perfect depends on how far away you are when you look at it:D
Quote:
Originally Posted by Millermagic View Post
It's a 4.0 ... as long as there's something in the crank case that isn't coolant I'm sure it will still run forever.
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post #247 of 380 Old 06-21-2010, 07:18 PM Thread Starter
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Oil still looks clean and clear at the dipstick and filler cap, so the head is hopefully OK. I guess I got one of the good ones .

_=====o000o
//__l_l_,\____\,____
l_--\_l__l_/--|lllll|
_.(o)_)__.(o)_)--o-)_)
"Dee", a Patriot Blue 2001 Cherokee Sport 4.0L High-Output
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"Live Free Or Die; Death Is Not The Worst of Evils." -General John Stark
Quote:
Originally Posted by speedbucket View Post
perfect depends on how far away you are when you look at it:D
Quote:
Originally Posted by Millermagic View Post
It's a 4.0 ... as long as there's something in the crank case that isn't coolant I'm sure it will still run forever.
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post #248 of 380 Old 06-23-2010, 06:14 PM Thread Starter
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Replaced water pump and Radiator with new ones. Ready-Rad 436020 from autozone, all brass 2 row.

Now she runs nice and cool, never went over 210 today!

And I found my deep socket 10mm. It stayed wedged in with the radiator for atleast 8K miles. It fell out when I took the radiator out. It was nice to find!

_=====o000o
//__l_l_,\____\,____
l_--\_l__l_/--|lllll|
_.(o)_)__.(o)_)--o-)_)
"Dee", a Patriot Blue 2001 Cherokee Sport 4.0L High-Output
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"Live Free Or Die; Death Is Not The Worst of Evils." -General John Stark
Quote:
Originally Posted by speedbucket View Post
perfect depends on how far away you are when you look at it:D
Quote:
Originally Posted by Millermagic View Post
It's a 4.0 ... as long as there's something in the crank case that isn't coolant I'm sure it will still run forever.
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post #249 of 380 Old 07-04-2010, 12:55 AM
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I just read the post a few up from here and you were saying something regarding vapor lock and a hard start after warm. I have a 99 XJ and have the same problem, however I have no overheating problems... Also, I noticed you were saying to prime the pump a few times. I think the priming of the pump is needed because your in-tank check valve is bad. Mine is, and I just read a write up on installing a inline one way check valve for that very purpose. I am still up in the air as to the hard start/rough idle/stalling on restart after warm. I will keep plugging away at it and will let you know if I come up w/ a solution. Oh and I see you're in louisville, I'm in cincy, we need to go wheelin sometime.

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post #250 of 380 Old 07-04-2010, 09:01 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by samuraisavr View Post
I just read the post a few up from here and you were saying something regarding vapor lock and a hard start after warm. I have a 99 XJ and have the same problem, however I have no overheating problems... Also, I noticed you were saying to prime the pump a few times. I think the priming of the pump is needed because your in-tank check valve is bad. Mine is, and I just read a write up on installing a inline one way check valve for that very purpose. I am still up in the air as to the hard start/rough idle/stalling on restart after warm. I will keep plugging away at it and will let you know if I come up w/ a solution. Oh and I see you're in louisville, I'm in cincy, we need to go wheelin sometime.

Bad check valves are realitively common. They will cause longer than normal crank times, that are cured by pausing with the key in the on position for 2-3 seconds.

The heat vapor lock is different. When it does fire it will run rough, and may be unresponsive to throttle input for a few seconds to a minute (depending on severity). This only happens after a heat soak, 5-20 minutes of sitting hot or so. After 45+ minutes of sitting it usually will run fine.

The problems together would make a much worse issue (same symptoms though) If the check valve isn't holding pressure, then the gasoline in the fuel rail will have a lower vapor temperature and will me more likely to vaporize on a heat soak, faster and for longer after sitting hot.

If it starts long cold, thats the check valve, it it idles bad on hot start, thats vapor lock.

Good luck with yours! If a group of people go wheeling sometime not to far, keep me in mind. I need to get into it.

_=====o000o
//__l_l_,\____\,____
l_--\_l__l_/--|lllll|
_.(o)_)__.(o)_)--o-)_)
"Dee", a Patriot Blue 2001 Cherokee Sport 4.0L High-Output
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Quote:
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perfect depends on how far away you are when you look at it:D
Quote:
Originally Posted by Millermagic View Post
It's a 4.0 ... as long as there's something in the crank case that isn't coolant I'm sure it will still run forever.
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post #251 of 380 Old 08-02-2010, 01:12 PM Thread Starter
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Oi! Went wheeling at Turkey Bay OHV park in Land Between the Lakes in western Kentucky.

Thought I should put some of the pictures up on here (didn't take many), and mention that as it goes for everyone else, now I want more lift and bigger tires even more. And a winch and a locker and some wheeling buddies too.









And a cool Jeep logo picture thing

_=====o000o
//__l_l_,\____\,____
l_--\_l__l_/--|lllll|
_.(o)_)__.(o)_)--o-)_)
"Dee", a Patriot Blue 2001 Cherokee Sport 4.0L High-Output
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedbucket View Post
perfect depends on how far away you are when you look at it:D
Quote:
Originally Posted by Millermagic View Post
It's a 4.0 ... as long as there's something in the crank case that isn't coolant I'm sure it will still run forever.
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post #252 of 380 Old 08-08-2010, 12:45 AM
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looks good, keep it up!

New Jeep Project. 2003 TJ... Third time's the Charm.
2005 LJ "Alberta LJ"
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post #253 of 380 Old 08-11-2010, 05:40 PM Thread Starter
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While my current disconnects work fine, and I have no complaints. Thanks to koolaid's poll however I was inspired to make my "2nd generation" quick disconnects. These use a larger clevis pin so it fits better, and fold up out of the way. All together I spent about 10$ on them.

First off, I must say that the sway bar mount hole is a tad bigger than 1/2" on mine. I was hoping it would be a bit closer to 1/2" but its like .51-.52". So the 1/2" clevis pin is still a TAD loose, but the thing still fits together better. I could weld the pins in (or bolt it on somehow) if I used a misalignment joint at the top, but It was a spur of the moment thing so I used what I had. The old ones didsn't make any noise I noticed anyway, so these should be even better.

Alright, I needed..
1/2"X 3" clevis pins (2.5" would work it seems)
some 7/16" washers (the 1/2" ones they have are too loose)
Some 1/2" tube (3/8" ID)
some 3/8" x 2" bolts
locknuts
Some flat bar (i had some .75"X.120" on hand, I would use 1"X.120" next time)
The hitch pin thingies for the clevis pins. You can use any style you want. I used the hair pin type.

Take off your links and you have this:


Ok so I cut off the threaded ends of the links. I was using 2" long bolts so I needed 1.25" sleeves, so cut those out of the tube. The tube I had still had a seam, so I used a 3/8" bit to ream it off. Then I bent the flat bar into a 1.25x1" U. I was just using a vise, and the jaw width of it was closer to 1.5", so making a U that small was.. complicated. Next time I would make it 1.5" so its easier.

This is how it lays out.


The ends cut off will stick up through the U's. So you need a 10mm hole (7/16" works for us with only SAE bits) in the middle, and 2 3/8" holes in the ends... do that.. Weld the sleeve on the end of the link, weld the threaded end into the U, and bolt it all together.



Bolts up no problem


This extends the link about a half inch btw. Could be longer depending on the U you make. If I was making it for a 3" or more lift I would either weld some rod between the link and sleeve, or use some tube with the same ID as the link to extend it to the desired length. I just have a 2" spacer lift, and I am still broke so ill lengthen it when I get the $$$ to lift it more.

TADA! now I can disconnect it and fold the link up out of the way. I guess a small bungee cord can hold it up?

_=====o000o
//__l_l_,\____\,____
l_--\_l__l_/--|lllll|
_.(o)_)__.(o)_)--o-)_)
"Dee", a Patriot Blue 2001 Cherokee Sport 4.0L High-Output
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"Live Free Or Die; Death Is Not The Worst of Evils." -General John Stark
Quote:
Originally Posted by speedbucket View Post
perfect depends on how far away you are when you look at it:D
Quote:
Originally Posted by Millermagic View Post
It's a 4.0 ... as long as there's something in the crank case that isn't coolant I'm sure it will still run forever.
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post #254 of 380 Old 08-11-2010, 05:46 PM
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you're welcome


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post #255 of 380 Old 08-11-2010, 06:51 PM
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You should weld the clevis pin to the bracket. I made similar ones for my TJ and used the tightest fitting clevis pin I could find and it worked itself loose a few days later. It would rattle and clunk like mad. When someone jumped on the bumper I could see it move up and down with so much slack.

Cool design though.

2001 XJ Sport 4.5" LA

1999 TJ 2.5L 5spd 2" lift
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