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post #31 of 55 Old 03-10-2010, 06:30 PM Thread Starter
bmyohn
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I'm not sure, the black smoke thing may not be for me. This thing is plenty loud. But an exhaust and intake would to wonders for it I bet.


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post #32 of 55 Old 03-10-2010, 06:37 PM
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Banks Power | 98-02 Dodge - 5.9L Cummins ISB>>Git-Kit®

My back tire isn't flat! It's "aired down" for rock crawling!

iɹǝʌo ǝɯ ııoɹ sıɥʇ pɐǝɹ uɐɔ noʎ ɟı

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It's like being in love with an overweight girl, but dumping her for a hotter girl. Heck yea it seems like an upgrade, but dammit it's just not the same. :D
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post #33 of 55 Old 03-10-2010, 06:38 PM
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My buddy is a big diesel guy. He has an almost identical truck to yours. He says the thing about diesels is the more stuff you do to the engine to gain HP you also gain MPG. The best thing I have ever seen is a big Cummins diesel next to a Prius at a stop light. Black smoke just pouring out of the single stack at idle just going all over the Prius.

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post #34 of 55 Old 03-10-2010, 06:41 PM
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I personally would have gone with the 12v, but that's mainly because I don't like computers controlling my engine if I don't have to...

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post #35 of 55 Old 03-10-2010, 06:54 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by McDuffers View Post
I personally would have gone with the 12v, but that's mainly because I don't like computers controlling my engine if I don't have to...
Well I have an 01 XJ as well, i've gotten use to the whole computer controlling my engine (i.e. - distributerless engine, coils packs, etc)

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post #36 of 55 Old 03-10-2010, 06:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmyohn View Post
Well I have an 01 XJ as well, i've gotten use to the whole computer controlling my engine (i.e. - distributerless engine, coils packs, etc)
those coil packs are efficient, but replacing them is a joke. Give me a distributor and wires any day

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post #37 of 55 Old 03-10-2010, 07:16 PM Thread Starter
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I can replace a coil pack in three minutes lol 4 bolts, unclip the wiring harness and its done

Maverick, that kit is awesome! I showed my dad the kit since I was over here washing it (using their water ) he just gave me the dirtiest look ever. Maybe one day lol

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post #38 of 55 Old 03-10-2010, 07:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmyohn View Post
I can replace a coil pack in three minutes lol 4 bolts, unclip the wiring harness and its done
Installing them is easy enough, but purchasing one on the other hand.....

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post #39 of 55 Old 03-10-2010, 07:43 PM
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Congrats on the truck. First order of business is to do the following:

- Add a FASS, Airdog or similar fuel filtration unit with a built in lift pump to prevent a failure of the VP44. If you can't afford this right now, you could replace the on-engine lift pump with a new replacement. Mopar discontinued them in favor of an expensive (but effective) in-tank lift pump/fuel sender unit, but supposedly Cummins distributors still stock the old engine mounted lift pump. If the truck is anywhere near 100K, you are seriously living on borrowed time with the stock lift pump unless it was recently replaced.

- Add a trans cooler and a high capacity trans pan to help your transmission survive - heat is the enemy here, and thanks to the mushy shifts that most modern vehicles have they generate a lot of heat. I'd also suggest a basic shift kit to firm up the shifts to help reduce fluid temps and reduce wear on the clutches. If you do decide on trans mods or end up needing a rebuild, get a better torque converter than the stock one - it will make a huge difference!

- If your truck doesn't have rear wheel well liners (they actually made them a Mopar add-on at some point) get some now...I see a lot of these trucks from this era rusting in the rear wheelwells.

Some general tips:

- Use a lubricity additive, preferably with a cetane booster. No need for fancy or expensive - my Bro-in-law uses Power Service in the big jug from Wal-Mart since it's cheap and effective. Their fuel economy has improved and the engine runs quieter with the added lubricity. There is some well-founded concern in the diesel community about ULSD and it's long term effects on fuel system components, especially on HPCR engines. Fortunately your engine isn't HPCR, but lubricity is always a good thing.

- Use Cummins/Fleetguard fuel filters if you retain the on-engine fuel filter. They really are the best, and as they develop new technology in filtration media/materials, they apply it backwards to their older products where possible. The aftermarket rarely does this. And no, I don't work for Cummins or Fleetguard.

- Resist the temptation to add a "cold air intake" or some other sort of cotton/gauze filter. On a boosted engine the dust and dirt that gets by the filter in the name of flow will do severe damage to the engine much quicker than a non-boosted or gasoline application. Do look for a replacement air filter that has the woven "pre-filter" attached to the paper pleats - it extends filter life and further protects the engine. If you don't believe me about the cotton/gauze filters, find someone with a diesel using one and ask them for an oil sample you can send off to a lab. The results you get back will show silicates off the scale, which is essentially sand/dirt getting by the rings (and polishing them down in the process) and into the oil. An air filter is a built-in compromise by it's very nature, you are trading off some flow in the name of protecting the engine.

- If you must get some sort of power adding device (money is better spent elsewhere, trust me), resist the temptation to use any other setting other than the lowest one. The driveline (epecially the trans) cannot handle the stress of the higher settings. The lowest settings will simply increase combustion efficiency by allowing higher in cylinder temperatures thus maximizing the burn/use of the fuel being injected, so you will see a slight bump in HP/Torque and fuel economy. Going much beyond this (i.e. a higher setting) just injects more fuel in the name of power - sure it's fun, but it wont be long before stuff breaks on a stock truck.

- This engine delivers the best economy when kept below 2,200 RPM and is really happy in the the 1,800 - 2,000 RPM range.

- Be careful where you get your fuel - use the stations that the big rigs and commercial drivers use as they generally have better practices when it comes to keeping their tanks clean and free of water/debris - lots of professional drivers keep detailed records on where they get their fuel in case they have a fuel-induced engine problem so they know who to bill for the repairs! Look for external filters on the pumps and look to see that they are changed regularly. I know it's tempting to save a few pennies buying from the ma & pa store, but if they don't move a significant amount of diesel, their tank maintenance practices should be considered suspect. All it takes is one big slug of water in a tankful of fuel to do serious damage to your fuel system.

And lastly, I know black smoke looks cool, but it really is just wasted fuel!

Chris
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post #40 of 55 Old 03-10-2010, 09:28 PM Thread Starter
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Wow TJJP77 for all that information! I am currently printing off your post and highlighting it and taking notes! I appreciate all that info! So far I have been extremely impressed with the fuel mileage on this thing. A day of driving the jeep around the gas gauge would easily be down a quarter tank of gas. this thing, the gas gauge has hardly moved. (yes i know the tank is bigger, blah blah blah) I am still impressed either way.

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6.5" TnT Customs Longarm Kitl Ford HP D60 l 6.5" Rock Krawler Coils l TnT Customs HD Trac Barl Omix Ada HD SYE l 1" UBEsl CV Driveshaft l39.5" IROKsl 17x9" Pro Comp 98sl High Clearance Shock Mounts [COLOR="red"] l Hidden Hitch l AJs Custom Front Bumper l SONY Xplod stereo l Alpine Speakers l TnT Frame StiffenerZ l 22" RE SS Brake Lines l 1.5" TnT Customs Boomerang Shackles l Sterling 10.25 *FULL WIDTHS* l JKS Mini Skids and Sway Bar Brackets l 7/8" Heim Joint High Steer

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post #41 of 55 Old 03-11-2010, 08:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmyohn View Post
Wow TJJP77 for all that information! I am currently printing off your post and highlighting it and taking notes! I appreciate all that info! So far I have been extremely impressed with the fuel mileage on this thing. A day of driving the jeep around the gas gauge would easily be down a quarter tank of gas. this thing, the gas gauge has hardly moved. (yes i know the tank is bigger, blah blah blah) I am still impressed either way.
No problem - glad to help. I've seen far too many people ruin their diesel in the relentless quest for power, and let me tell you it isn't a cheap game to play.

The folks who get a legitimate 500,000 or 1,000,000 miles out of these engines leave them stock and only upgrade the filtration systems to help protect their investment - they stay out of the power game because it only leads to failures. You have to remember that this engine was originally developed for generators, boats and various stationary applications, which are generally operated at a relatively constant load and RPM range...an automotive application is another animal entirely from a stress/durability standpoint.

Chris
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post #42 of 55 Old 03-11-2010, 08:04 PM Thread Starter
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That is a very good point Chris.

I am looking at putting in some gauges to help keep an eye on internal temps and things. The best deal I have found so far is the GlowShift Kit. 98-02 Dodge Ram Custom Diesel Gauges Package

What 3 gauges would you recommend I install into these?

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post #43 of 55 Old 03-11-2010, 08:15 PM
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That is a very good point Chris.

I am looking at putting in some gauges to help keep an eye on internal temps and things. The best deal I have found so far is the GlowShift Kit. 98-02 Dodge Ram Custom Diesel Gauges Package

What 3 gauges would you recommend I install into these?
Well, if you're staying stock, some of the "performance" oriented gauges really won't be necessary, for sure I'd want a trans temp gauge, I'd probably also want oil pressure and if you aren't able to swing for a aftermarket fuel filter/lift pump unit for the time being, I'd probably consider a fuel pressure gauge to make sure I can keep an eye on the fuel pressure coming out of the stock lift pump to make sure that the VP44 never gets starved for fuel. The only other one I'd view as remotely useful is the exhaust gas temp gauge - it's useful when pulling long grades/heavy loads. While boost pressure is cool, if you aren't hopping up the engine, what good does it really do to know that information?

For the time being, unless you can afford all the stuff right away, gauges would be way down my list - the fuel pump/filter system improvements and trans upgrades (cooler, deep pan) would be at the top of the list, and then the gauges. If you can swing all of it now, well then that's good - I know a lot of people can only justify/afford upgrades in stages, but that may not be the case here.

Chris
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post #44 of 55 Old 03-11-2010, 08:21 PM Thread Starter
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Gotcha, the fuel pressure gauge is definitely on the list (do i want the 30 psi or 100 psi gauge?) The trans temp is a must as well. And I am thinking the oil pressure is the third, I have the oil pressure on the dash but I've heard it is wrong most of the time.

2014 Jeep Wrangler Sport S
3.6L V6 - Manual
2001 Jeep Cherokee Sport
4.6L Golen Engine Stroker

6.5" TnT Customs Longarm Kitl Ford HP D60 l 6.5" Rock Krawler Coils l TnT Customs HD Trac Barl Omix Ada HD SYE l 1" UBEsl CV Driveshaft l39.5" IROKsl 17x9" Pro Comp 98sl High Clearance Shock Mounts [COLOR="red"] l Hidden Hitch l AJs Custom Front Bumper l SONY Xplod stereo l Alpine Speakers l TnT Frame StiffenerZ l 22" RE SS Brake Lines l 1.5" TnT Customs Boomerang Shackles l Sterling 10.25 *FULL WIDTHS* l JKS Mini Skids and Sway Bar Brackets l 7/8" Heim Joint High Steer

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post #45 of 55 Old 03-11-2010, 08:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmyohn View Post
Gotcha, the fuel pressure gauge is definitely on the list (do i want the 30 psi or 100 psi gauge?) The trans temp is a must as well. And I am thinking the oil pressure is the third, I have the oil pressure on the dash but I've heard it is wrong most of the time.
If memory serves, the low pressure side of the fuel system is well under 30 PSI (heck, I think it's well under 10 PSI!) so the 30 PSI model should do fine.

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