Nate's 4x4 - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 16 Old 11-08-2015, 07:17 AM Thread Starter
gfd66
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Nate's 4x4

Anyone bought from them? How's their quality and customer service?


Genius might be the ability to say a profound thing in a simple way.
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post #2 of 16 Old 11-08-2015, 12:13 PM
Tom95YJ
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A company I worked with years ago did a lot of work with nates we always had great service from them. My buddy has had one of their tire carriers in his YJ since 2003 or 2004 with a 37 no issues or rattles yet

'89 YJ The Smurf Yjoty 2016
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post #3 of 16 Old 01-31-2016, 08:09 AM Thread Starter
gfd66
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OK, so I bought my bumpers from Nate's. And the quality is great. But as warned his communication is terrible. Hoping someone here can help as I want to install and am not sure if I am missing anything other than the grease cap for the spindle. And if anyone can help with torque specs, even if they are just general specs (he says on his page that the spindle for the swing away uses typical 1 ton trailer axle parts). He send them to you unwrapped, with no packing list or instructions so you honestly do not know if you are getting all of the hardware. As soon as I get all of the pics of what I received resized (I do not want another account online for anything) I will post them up. But, just to describe, I have the 10 mounting bolts for the rear bumper, I have the latch assy for the destaco latch, I have two lag bolts with wing nuts for the HiLift jack, I have the lower bearing seal-lower bearing-upper bearing-castle nut-cotter pin for the spindle, then the 2 long "eye" bolts, a long rod with cotter pins to hold the on place, and 2 pieces of flat stock for the Jerry cans. Lastly I have 4 nuts, 2 washers, 2 lock washers and 3 bolts that I am not certain what to do with. Any assistance from anyone who has installed his bumper wth the jerry can swing away is appreciated.

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post #4 of 16 Old 01-31-2016, 10:17 AM
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I have a Nates Model One front bumper which I think is great for the price. The welding was clean and there is very little to screw up design wise. Though, I do wish the fair lead plate was gusseted.

Here is my Nate's Rear Carrier from about two years ago. Be forewarned. Many aspects of Nate's design are simply ridiculous and poorly thought out. Also, I think the new guy welded my bumper and carrier together. The build quality isn't quite as good as my front bumper.



First thing I did was put proper wheel studs on the tire carrier rather than use the loose nuts and bolts Nate supplied. On the mounting plate, you will need to drill out the rough holes that appear to have been cut out using a torch.

Second thing I improved upon was adding a set of thin jam nuts to the HiLift tabs to hold the bolts permanently in place. In my head, I feel that the heavier bottom side of the jack ought to ride on the hinge side of the carrier. That means the foot of the jack will prevent the hardtop glass from opening no matter the position of the carrier.

The gas can hold down is assembled by sandwiching the plate between a pair of flanged lock nuts. The top nut needs to be threaded onto the rod backwards. Easier said than done. Leave a bit of room for the plate to swivel.


The first big problem you will discover is that the gas can hold down will never really hold down a gas can unless it is really tight. One would think you could use the locking bar as a wrench to do this, but the HiLift tabs and spare tire are perfectly in the way. You won't be able to turn the hold down by hand because everything binds up. Instead, cut a small length of rod to use as a wrench and try to never lose it.

No matter how well I thought I had secured the cans, they would work loose. I have nice a pair of scuff marks on the tail gate from the gas cans bouncing around

The DeStaCo draw latch is pointed the wrong direction. Rather than being pulled into the stop, the carrier is only held closed by the tension of the latch pulling away from the hinge/spindle. This will allow the carrier to bounce and rattle until the u-bolt breaks, as mine did. Square bottomed u-bolts are hard to find. I found a pair of j-bolts at a hardware store that did the job and never bothered to go beyond that.


One partial fix is to shim the latch side of the carrier to reduce the bouncing.


This bumper is heavy and you will loose some rear spring height unless you add apair of bigger coils. 180lbs empty, if a recall. And then add your spare tire, full cans and jack to easily exceed 300lbs. Take the time to add frame tie in brackets so you don't tear the bumper off the Jeep that first time you decide to pull out your stuck friend.


Long story short, I really do think the Nate's carrier is a nice overall idea, but with many badly designed features that Nate could easily understand if he used his own product.

2003 Rubicon

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post #5 of 16 Old 01-31-2016, 10:35 AM
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This is how you fix the latch to eliminate rattles and allow the carrier to close securely.



This is how you fix the gas can holders by getting rid of Nate's stupid hold down system. No tools are required and now you can carry any type of container/bag that will fit in the tray besides the old 3 handle jerry cans.


Other than still being heavy, I like my modified carrier.

2003 Rubicon

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post #6 of 16 Old 01-31-2016, 12:00 PM
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I am in the market for a spare tire carrier/bumper. In fact, that is holding up my whole lift project. I sure wish Nate would fix these deficiencies and improve his design. I like how the spindle uses tapered roller bearings and also that the jerry cans are in between the tail gate and tire.
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post #7 of 16 Old 01-31-2016, 12:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tj_rubicon View Post
I am in the market for a spare tire carrier/bumper. In fact, that is holding up my whole lift project. I sure wish Nate would fix these deficiencies and improve his design. I like how the spindle uses tapered roller bearings and also that the jerry cans are in between the tail gate and tire.
I like the form factor as well as it keeps the load low and partially hidden. But I'll say that if you don't realistically have a need to carry two jerry cans, then look elsewhere. I like to do long distance road trip, expedition-style camping runs, so I wanted to be able to carry a can of gas and a can of water outside of the Jeep to save space on the inside.

If I ever get a welder, there are other little things I want to correct. Especially after my fix, the hoop does not need to be this tall and wide. The tire mount should be pulled in a bit closer to the body.
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post #8 of 16 Old 01-31-2016, 03:59 PM Thread Starter
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jjvw, I like what you've done. But as I am reading this on my phone, could you elaborate on the latch fix and where did you get the Jerry Can bases?

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post #9 of 16 Old 01-31-2016, 04:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gfd66 View Post
jjvw, I like what you've done. But as I am reading this on my phone, could you elaborate on the latch fix and where did you get the Jerry Can bases?
Look at the direction of our latches and see how they pull the carrier arm in different directions. My latch holds the carrier arm securely against the stop. Along with the shim, my carrier cannot rattle. Nate's latch does not pull the carrier arm into anything. The arm only floats in space next to the stop, which is why the carrier is able to bounce and rattle around. Unless he got a good deal on a shipping container full of latches, there is no good reason why Nate can't do his latches the way I did mine. It would actually be less work and fewer pieces to build it correctly because the stop and catch are the same piece.

The gas can trays are a pair of NOS Blitz brand holders I found on eBay. There is an even better tray option out there that is rectangular rather than having rounded corners. They are more universally compatible with more containers.

http://www.extremeterrain.com/barric...D&XTID=J102522


If I were to do it over again, I would used these instead.
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post #10 of 16 Old 01-31-2016, 05:33 PM Thread Starter
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Awesome! Thanks brothers!!!

Genius might be the ability to say a profound thing in a simple way.
Charles Bukowski
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post #11 of 16 Old 02-03-2016, 08:37 AM
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So, does anyone have an in with Nate and can persuade him to correct his design?
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post #12 of 16 Old 02-03-2016, 12:41 PM
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I know nate and the chance of him changing it is slim to none! I ran his rear swing away for 10yrs and I had to add everything mentioned in pics above. Thick rubber to keep rattles down, new latch and u bolts from stress/cheap latch.
At the time he told me the receiver was not to tow and he wouldn't add jerry can mounts as insurance problems will arise. I towed tons of weight flawlessly!

Mine showed up raw steel with a FedEx sticker on it, that's it and all! So I had to buy nuts, bolts etc to attach. Then I had to add frame gussets to tie it in, or it will flop bad. I also had to buy wheel studs, mark my bolt pattern and drill and install studs to hold tire on.

At the time, imo it was the strongest materials used, but a diy finish. It was also a lot cheaper and I wanted certain things done. I got one made of 3/16 steel.
I can say it held up after I fixed it's short comings. But for all the time and trouble, others can be had that are better. A smittybilt is a knockoff/clone of the old currie bumper, I'd rather run it if I had to do it over or just make my own. Good luck

MOPAR!
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post #13 of 16 Old 02-03-2016, 01:38 PM
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I own front and rear bumpers from Nate.
Both were shipped with a sticker on them,no big deal there.
The price was right, quality was great and both bumpers are stout.
All and all I am satisfied.

Semper-Fi "81-84"
I.U.O.E. - 18
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post #14 of 16 Old 02-03-2016, 06:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ravenworks View Post
I own front and rear bumpers from Nate.
Both were shipped with a sticker on them,no big deal there.
The price was right, quality was great and both bumpers are stout.
All and all I am satisfied.
I agree that the lack of packaging is a complete non-issue, especially if it keeps the costs down. If Nate believes in his gas can hold downs, then fine I guess. But not addressing the latch design is simple stubbornness. My better design is less work to build.
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post #15 of 16 Old 02-03-2016, 07:50 PM
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I have found that the best way to get him to call you back is leave a message stating that you want to buy something but needed to ask a question.
He will call you within a day.

Semper-Fi "81-84"
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