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post #1 of 6 Old 07-20-2015, 10:13 PM Thread Starter
wingless
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wingless’ 46RH Transmission Rebuild

The 46RH transmission failed on my 5.2L 1994 Grand Cherokee in 1998. It was rebuilt by a local shop and worked fine for 2˝ years before failing again.

It was then parked until recently, when I rebuilt the transmission myself.

The failure and the cause of the failure were discovered. The transmission shop that rebuilt my transmission neglected to install the Rear (Forward) Clutch Apply Piston Inner Lip Seal. That clutch piston only had the Outer Lip seal.

The result of that missing seal was that the piston did not compress the Rear (Forward) clutch pack hard enough, causing excessive wear and excessive heat, removing the friction material from the friction plates and warping the friction plates and the steel plates.

The entire transmission was contaminated from this failure.

All of the reused parts, except the planetary gears were cleaned w/ Simple Green, a toothbrush, strong garden hose water, then dried w/ compressed air. This process was repeated over and over until each of the parts were clean.

The case exterior casting was smoothed w/ a right angle air die grinder and woven pads, then polish sanding. The crud in the exterior nooks and crannies were scraped w/ a utility knife blade.



The transmission was rebuilt to be stronger and better than stock. I was able to add one additional friction and steel for three clutches and add two additional frictions and steels for the overdrive.

The transmission now also has upgraded parts for the band pistons, valve body and oil pan.

All of the clearances were adjusted to be fully compliant to specifications.


This topic is not an instruction manual, but instead shows some of the steps involved w/ this project.

Please note that this is my very first transmission project. I am not an expert. If there are any errors, then identify them so I may take appropriate action.

There is LOTS of additional information and images available, so please let me know if anything else would be useful.


Required Tools
Normal Shop Tools
1994 Factory Shop Manual
ASTG 46RE 47RE 48RE Manual or ASTG A500/518/618 Manual (I used the 46RE manual)
Transmission Jack
Miller 6311 Gauge Bar Tool
Miller 6312 Gauge Tool
Intermediate Shaft Overdrive Alignment Tool
Overdrive Spring Compression Tool
Alignment Pin Set or Two 1/4-20 x 2-1/2 Studs
Shop Press
Vernier Caliper
Feeler Gauge Set
Large Snap Ring Pliers Set
Regular Snap Ring Pliers Set
Torque Wrenches
Large C Clamp
1-7/8” Socket (Used to Install Output Seal)
1-1/2” Socket (Used to Remove / Install Band Pistons)
Air Compressor (Used to Clean Parts)
Ordinary Drinking Straw
Toothbrush (I used the wife’s)



Useful Tools
Two Slide Hammers w/ Two M10-1.5 Female to 3/8-16 Male Adapters
Miller C-3853-A Compressor and Installer Tool (Useful for Front (Direct) Clutch Apply Piston disassembly / assembly, required if removing / replacing Low Roller Clutch Cam)
Vacuum Pump w/ Gauge and Plate
Powerbuilt 648619 Pilot Bearing Puller



Required Parts
Torque Converter
Twelve Quarts Mopar ATF+4 Fluid
Transmission Rebuild Kit w/ Both Bands, all Frictions, Steels, Gaskets, Seals and Piston Rings
Transmission Assembly Goo
Simple Green



Optional Parts
Derale Performance #14210 Transmission Cooling Pan
Derale Performance #14010 Transmission Pan Filter Extender
Sonnax Industries Chrysler 46-47RH/RE Sure Cure Kit (Now only listed on the MFG site in the Over Size (OS) configuration, requiring reaming tools. The standard part, w/o requiring reaming, is still available on eBay.)
Sonnax 22912 Rear Billet Servo Piston
Steel Rear Servo Pin
TCS 123001 Reverse Servo Piston
4.4:1 Ratio Intermediate Band Lever
HD Intermediate Band Strut
Torrington Thrust Bearing Kit


Before and After of Transmission Exterior Case






The transfer case was removed using the transmission jack.


The front exhaust pipe removal was a major butt pain. The rusted flange-to-manifold bolts fused to the nuts. Three were “easy” to cut w/ a Dremel cutoff wheel. The rear passenger side bolt was next to impossible to cut. It required removal of the washer fluid bottle and the engine computer. Then a hacksaw blade tool was used to manually cut that bolt.





The transmission was lowered and the CPS Crankshaft Position Sensor was removed. It must be removed prior to removing the transmission.
]


The transmission jack was used to remove the transmission. Note that the safety chain is used to secure the transmission to the jack. The transmission is very heavy. Use a C clamp to retain the torque converter to the transmission.



Here are the Alto Red Rebuild Kit Parts





Here is the Sonnax Sure Cure Kit Parts.



The overdrive was separated from the transmission. I started w/ rebuilding the overdrive / direct drive.

After removing some retention rings, the guts slide right out.

This shows the overdrive, piston, frictions and steels removed, plus the direct drive guts slid out.


The governor is removed.


The governor is disassembled, cleaned and new rings installed. These interlocking rings are a butt pain to install, an additional set of hands is useful.




This is the spring compression tool.


This shows the direct drive and tool in the shop press. Note that the internal spring takes 830 lbs to compress, so safety first.


The spring is compressed, permitting the inner and outer snap ring to be removed.









The new output shaft seal is pressed in using a 1-7/8” socket.





The overdrive sun gear bushings did not look good. I do not have a bushing installation tool set, so I replaced the entire sun gear to get one w/ new bushings. Also, the Torrington thrust bearing set includes a spring seat and thrust plate, so that was installed onto the new sun gear.













The Sonnax Sure Cure Kit includes an Output Shaft Small Bushing, to replace the existing bushing in the Output Shaft. The old bushing was pulled and the replacement bushing was pressed in-place.







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Last edited by wingless; 07-26-2017 at 06:47 AM. Reason: Replaced PB extortion w/ Flickr
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post #2 of 6 Old 07-20-2015, 10:15 PM Thread Starter
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Assembling direct drive, w/ cleaned ring gear, housing, clutch roller assembly, clutch inner cam, clutch spring and completed sun gear assembly.

Note that all frictions are soaked for at least 30 minutes in ATF prior to installation. I also use ATF and my fingers to remove any coating from the steels prior to installation. The steels have a “slimy” coating, probably to prevent rust during storage, that drips black when washed w/ red ATF. I’d rather have that “contamination” outside the transmission.

Note, the intermediate shaft alignment tool is fully installed at this point and going forward to ensure that final assembly is possible. This is required.









The direct drive is installed into housing. The large rear ball bearing snap ring is expanded during installation. A second set of hands is very useful here.

The overdrive clutch frictions and steels are installed. I was able to install two extra overdrive frictions and steels while maintaining the specified clearance by using the, diesel configuration of a stepped backing plate (supplied w/ the rebuild kit) and no waved ring. I went from five frictions and five steels to seven frictions and steels w/ this configuration. The wire retention ring is shown installed.

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The Miller 6311 gauge bar tool and the Miller 6312 gauge tool are both required to ensure the correct Intermediate Shaft Selective Spacer is used and the correct Number 10 Selective Spacer is used.

The dimensions on the Miller 6311 bar are: Thickness: 0.500”; Width: 1.505”; Length: 11”; Centered Slot Width: 0.375” and Centered Slot Overall Length 4.375”.

The dimensions on the Miller 6312 tool are: Diameter: 1.325” and Length 5.505”.



The intermediate shaft alignment tool is removed, then replaced w/ the Miller 6312 gauge tool. Ensure the tool is fully inserted into the bore. The Miller 6311 gauge bar tool and a vernier caliper is used for these measurements.










FSM tables are used to cross reference the measurements to the appropriate selective parts.

On my transmission, the measurement to the direct drive clutch hub was waay off, as compared to the selective thrust plate I already had on hand. My solution was to add an additional direct drive friction and steel. (Disassemble the overdrive…) The result from adding the friction and steel was that this clutch hub measurement was exactly correct for the selective thrust plate I had on hand.


The main part of the transmission was next.

First was to remove the oil pump. I used the recommended dual slide hammers. The oil pump has two bolt clearance holes threaded w/ 3/8-16 female threads. All the slide hammers have M10-1.5 male threads, so a set of adapters were fabricated.

It is possible to remove the pump w/o the slide hammers. I am glad to have the correct tools because my final assembly measurement was out of spec, forcing this to be disassembled, different thickness parts installed, then reassembled.

It was no issue when using these recommended tools.







The pump was disassembled. The internal part clearances measured. The piston rings were replaced. The oil pump converter seal was replaced. The oil pump to case O ring seal was replaced.

The Number 1 Thrust Washer shown here was one part that needed to be swapped after the transmission was buttoned up and the input shaft end play on the completed transmission was measured and found to be out of specification.





The exterior face was cleaned and painted.











The transmission parts were all removed from the case. That includes: the Oil Pan; the Valve Body and Filter w/ Park Rod; the Accumulator; the Intermediate (Front) Band and Linkage; the Forward and Direct Clutch Housing Assembly; the Complete Geartrain Assembly; the Low / Reverse Drum and Inner Race; the Low / Reverse Band and Linkage; the Low Roller Clutch Assembly; the Overdrive Clutch Piston Assembly; the Reverse (Rear) Servo Assembly and the Intermediate (Front) Servo Assembly.

The casting flash and casting ID marks on the case exterior were smoothed, sanded and cleaned.





The Front (Direct) Clutch was disassembled, cleaned and reassembled. The Miller C-3853-A Compressor and Installer Tool was used w/ the shop press to compress the springs before removing / replacing the snap ring.






The Front (Direct) frictions and steels were installed, after soaking for 30 minutes and after cleaning w/ ATF. Using the different thickness parts, I was able to increase the friction and steel by one, while maintaining the finished assembly clearance.


On my failed, rebuilt transmission, the Rear (Forward) Clutch was assembled wrong, causing the problem. They neglected to install the Rear (Forward) Clutch Apply Piston Inner Lip Seal. They also coated the perimeter of the Rear (Forward) Clutch Bellville Return Spring w/ RTV silicone. That RTV also ended up bonded to the troughs of the inner teeth on the Front Planetary Ring Gear. The RTV required scraping for removal from all locations.

Missing Inner Lip Seal


RTV on Bellville Spring


RTV in Ring Gear



New Rear (Forward) Clutch Apply Piston Outer and Inner Lip Seals were installed onto the Rear (Forward) Clutch Apply Piston. The piston has an encapsulated ball. That ball must be inspected to ensure it is free to rattle. This was then CAREFULLY installed onto the Turbine Shaft and Front Clutch Hub Assembly. It was difficult to install properly because both the inner and the outer lip seals engaged into the hub at exactly the same time. New Turbine Shaft Teflon Sealing Rings (2), a new Clutch Hub Steel Sealing Ring and a new Number 2 Thrust Washer were installed onto the turbine shaft.



Front Clutch Hub Assembly


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Last edited by wingless; 07-26-2017 at 09:20 PM. Reason: Replaced PB extortion w/ Flickr
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post #3 of 6 Old 07-20-2015, 10:18 PM Thread Starter
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Rear Clutch Housing w/ Number 3 Thrust Washer, Swapped Out at Last Step for Proper Input Shaft End Play



At long last, these images show the smoked Rear (Forward) Clutch Friction and Steel Plates.




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The Rear (Forward) Clutch pack was rebuilt w/ an extra friction and steel, while maintaining the specified clearance.

The completed Front (Direct) Clutch Housing was installed onto the completed Rear (Forward) Clutch Retainer. This required some jiggling and rotating to align the friction and the hub teeth, so the housing would drop fully onto the retainer.


The planetary geartrain was disassembled, cleaned and reassembled. That included installation of four new thrust washers.


The low roller clutch was disassembled, cleaned and reassembled. A new Low / Reverse (Rear) Band Assembly was installed. The band was soaked in ATF for 30 minutes. The band linkage needs to be in-place prior to installing the band.

The Overdrive Clutch Piston Retainer has a small plastic filter. That was removed and replaced. The old part disintegrated on removal.







The Reverse (Rear) Servo was upgraded to use a Sonnax 22912B rear billet servo piston and a steel rear servo pin. These images show the old and new parts. A new Rear Servo Apply Piston Lip Seal was used. The seal and the bore were both lubricated liberally w/ transmission goo lube. A C clamp and a 1-1/2” socket were used to compress the spring to permit installing the snap ring.













The Intermediate (Front) Servo Piston was upgraded to a TCS 123001 reverse servo piston. This has an extra seal ring and is a high-precision part.

After-the-fact I discovered that my old part had been man handled. The pin was all banged-up and the piston stuck along the length, instead of moving freely.

The new part has a bearing and glides nicely along the entire travel length. I HIGHLY recommend this part!

The old 3.8:1 ratio lever has been replaced w/ a 4.4:1 ratio lever. The old band strut was replaced w/ a heavy-duty band strut.

These changes are to increase the intermediate band holding force w/o making the application too harsh.

The transmission goo lubricant was liberally applied to the piston rings and to the bore prior to installation.

A C clamp and a 1-1/2” socket were used to compress the spring to permit installing the snap ring.

The band was soaked in ATF for 30 minutes prior to installation.







The 1-2 Accumulator Seal Rings were replaced. The rings and the bore was lubricated w/ goo and the accumulator was installed.




The valve body was completely disassembled, cleaned, tested and the Sonnax Sure Cure kit installed. There are some tiny passages, so clean, clean, clean is the word!

Here is the Sonnax Installation Guide instructions. The valve body was setup according to these instructions.

The valve body was vacuum tested to ensure the spool valves are sealing properly.

The stainless steel separator plate TRE orifice was drilled out from 0.042” to 0.062”.

The construction quality of the Sonnax spool valves is visibly superior to the stock parts.

















Note that the 3-4 Shuttle Valve is a VERY tight fit at the bottom of a deep bore in the Lower Housing. THE ONLY WAY I was able to install this valve was to use a drinking straw to hold the stem, dip the valve in ATF, then spin the valve while pushing it into position.





The valve body was reassembled w/ all the internal parts and balls in the specified locations. The line pressure and the kickdown lever were both set to the Sonnax instructions.

Two gauge pins were used during the assembly to ensure all the layers are properly aligned.

The Boost Valve Tube was cleaned and replaced.




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Last edited by wingless; 07-26-2017 at 10:03 PM. Reason: Replaced PB extortion w/ Flickr
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post #4 of 6 Old 07-20-2015, 10:20 PM Thread Starter
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The parking rod was installed onto the rooster comb and the valve body installed onto the transmission.

The parking sprag operation was verified.





The Derale Performance #14010 transmission pan filter extender was installed, the filter installed and the Derale Performance #14210 transmission cooling pan was installed. The torque converter was installed.










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Last edited by wingless; 07-26-2017 at 10:12 PM. Reason: Replaced PB extortion w/ Flickr
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post #5 of 6 Old 07-22-2015, 09:18 PM Thread Starter
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The rebuilt transmission worked flawlessly for many months. Then, one day, the vehicle was parked and stopped. When it was started again it sounded like a bag of wrenches was flopping around inside the engine, as-discussed in this topic.

It took some investigation, but eventually I discovered that the problem was that the original OEM 1949 424 flex plate to crankshaft bolts are painted w/ Loctite, good for one usage only. The FSM does not mention that these bolts are single use only. The FSM does not mention to apply Loctite to the bolts.

The 1949 424 flex plate to crankshaft bolt has been superseded w/ 6035 462 bolts. Those Mopar bolts have Loctite applied, ready for usage.

The J321 4097 flex plate to torque converter bolt has been superseded w/ 1949 765. I ordered those Mopar parts.

The transmission was yanked, the flex plate removed, the old crankshaft and the old torque converter bolts were discarded and replaced w/ new Mopar bolts.

My expectation is that acceptable results would be realized by application of Loctite to those bolts.


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Last edited by wingless; 07-26-2017 at 10:24 PM. Reason: Replaced PB extortion w/ Flickr
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post #6 of 6 Old 07-26-2017, 10:30 PM Thread Starter
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The topic was reworked to replace the PB extortion images w/ Flikr images.

This effort was as-much fun as it appears.


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