How to put a 2007 JK electric swaybar in your YJ--WRITEUP WITH PICS - Page 6 - JeepForum.com
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post #76 of 322 Old 01-09-2007, 11:19 AM
k1llerkyle
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anyone have flex pics?

anyone have flex pics?

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post #77 of 322 Old 01-09-2007, 11:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brfertig
http://www.hobbyengineering.com/H1918.html


L298 Motor Driver Dual H-Bridge Electronic Kit
Time to educate the idiot. How does this apply to this application?
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post #78 of 322 Old 01-09-2007, 02:31 PM
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Just ordered mine from the local dealer. $105 CDN. The parts guy said they are at -5, so it should be a while.

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post #79 of 322 Old 01-09-2007, 02:48 PM
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i'm glad I checked in, cause it's been awhile. this is somehting I definitely want to do, but I guess I have to wait, cause I just phoned my locla dealer, and they won't backorder the part "in case the price goes up".

oh well, I might just get some discos soon or something instead.
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post #80 of 322 Old 01-09-2007, 02:49 PM
jeepsteads
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i just ordered mine $71 god i cant wait
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post #81 of 322 Old 01-09-2007, 04:19 PM
JJorda
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Ordered one today at $67 and change, but it's on national backorder. The parts guy said it should be a week or so?

1989 Jeep Wrangler - Daily Driver and project - Red Jeep Club #216, NRA Jeep Club #5
1967 Chevelle SS396 - Main Project <--454, TH400, 4.10's, FAST
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post #82 of 322 Old 01-09-2007, 05:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atomicmoose
Time to educate the idiot. How does this apply to this application?
Good question and your not an idiot. It is a lot to learn for someone who hasnt dabbled with electronics.

WHat you do is build this board. It then steps down the voltage to 5+ volts and used an IC or Integrated Circuit to control motor FUNCTION.

Then you need to have a programmable rom chip or PROM. This circuit is then connected to the PROM and gives instructions on how to operate the motor. I will purchase a PROM and program it. It allows me to use my laptop to tell the chip how long to run the motor and when to operate the lock control. Really a simple circuit compared to what is in there now. That electronic board that Paul Tyler ripped from the sway bar is some awesome engineering. I just am making a simple version of it. So the PROM is the LOGIC

Function is motor and power requirements and Logic is how to manipulate the motor to do what you want it to do.

FUNCTION + LOGIC = CONTROL

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post #83 of 322 Old 01-09-2007, 05:52 PM
Timmay
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atomicmoose
I just ordered one from Lenihan Jeep in Marlton, NJ. There is now 8 available.

$67.70 +shipping. I'll have it in 3 days. The parts clerk was amazed it was only 70 bucks!
I'm gonna go steal that one before you get to it.


Actually i'll just go order my own.... from the same dealer.


I wonder what they'll say if two of them get ordered right after each other.
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post #84 of 322 Old 01-09-2007, 06:27 PM
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Picked mine up from the dealer today. While I was there I checked stock. The Milwaukee dist center is at -9 inventory. Pretty much no one has them. You NJ boys may be in luck though. My dealer told me that the only dealer he shows with an physically in stock in Bell Jeep, in Newton, NJ. They have 1. I asked about ordering more, and my dealer said he'd take the order. As for the price being rediculously low, he told me stranger things have happened.

-Craig-
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n00bs bashing n00bs, it's a pitifull thing.
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post #85 of 322 Old 01-09-2007, 07:06 PM
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Hey Paul (or anyone else) one more question for you on the wiring. Does the wiring look something like this. (Please excuse the shoddy picture. Just made it up pretty quick).

I have the red going to the momentary with a resistor, the white going to the ground, a black to the on, and the other black to the ground.

1988 Wrangler, 2000 Cherokee Freedom Edition,
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post #86 of 322 Old 01-09-2007, 07:36 PM
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i ordered 3 total..... if the price goes up there is money to be made!
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post #87 of 322 Old 01-09-2007, 07:44 PM Thread Starter
paultyler
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cjb7804
Hey Paul (or anyone else) one more question for you on the wiring. Does the wiring look something like this. (Please excuse the shoddy picture. Just made it up pretty quick).

I have the red going to the momentary with a resistor, the white going to the ground, a black to the on, and the other black to the ground.
Well......here is the best I can tell you. I am not the best at wiring diagrams. The way you are trying to do it is simply one of two possible ways I could come up with. Maybe someone has a better idea?

Geta three position switch: Momentary-On / ON / Off

Make the Momentary-On position power the motor. Let's say this is when you flip the switch to the left. Therefore, when you want to disconnect the sway bar you will flip the switch to Momentary-On.

When you release the Momentary-On, it will fall back to the middle position, which is On. Make this middle position power the two black wires. This will engage the electromagnet to hold the sway bar in the disconnected mode. Flipping the switch all the way to the right be the Off position. This would remove all power from the two black wires, allowing the electromagnet to disengage, thereby releasing the swaybar system to fall back to the connected position (which it will always do because the motor is spring loaded to default to the "sway bar connected" position when there is no power).

For normal driving you will leave the switch in the off position. This is "swaybar connected". To disconnect, simply flip to the Momemtary-On position to engage the motor. You will want to hold it there for about 2 seconds. You will hear the motor turn and then stop. This means the "plunger" on the motor has pressed against the "disconnect button" in the assembly and disconnected the sway bar. Release the Momentary-On. It will fall back to On and will power the magnet (the two black wires) and keep it disconnected until you flip to Off.

As for the resistor, you are right. Put it in line with either the red or the white wire, in between your switch and the motor.

Like I said in the writeup, can someone think of a way to limit the power that goes to the two black wires (the magnet). I considered a rheostat, like on a dash dimmer control. I really don't think the two black wires need 12V.

I take it you already have yours and are working on it?


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Quote:
Originally Posted by joshrad View Post
This Uncle Paul guy seems to know what he's talking about.
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post #88 of 322 Old 01-09-2007, 08:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paultyler
I take it you already have yours and are working on it?
Not yet. Should get it in a day or two. Just trying to get everything lined out before I start on it. So with the red and white wires, one will go to positive with a resistor (red wire), and one will go to negative (white)?

1988 Wrangler, 2000 Cherokee Freedom Edition,
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post #89 of 322 Old 01-09-2007, 08:14 PM Thread Starter
paultyler
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cjb7804
Not yet. Should get it in a day or two. Just trying to get everything lined out before I start on it. So with the red and white wires, one will go to positive with a resistor (red wire), and one will go to negative (white)?
Yes. Just make sure it runs the motor in the right direction. if not just switch the wires.

Edit: I checked and white is positve and red is negative.


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92 YJ, 35' MTR Kevlars, Klune/Dana 20, 4.88s, SYE, Rubicon D44s w/Rubicon lockers, front and rear Alloy USA chromoly shafts with 30 spline outers,
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, custom cv driveshafts,
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joshrad View Post
This Uncle Paul guy seems to know what he's talking about.
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post #90 of 322 Old 01-09-2007, 09:00 PM
cueball
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awesome idea.. now where is that TJ write up???

Bye to the old - 1988 6 cyl 5 speed with a 94 rollbar, tomken 2x4 rocker skids and homebrewed OBA.

Hello to the New - 1999 TJ Sport 4.0L auto.. stock for now
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