How to put a 2007 JK electric swaybar in your YJ--WRITEUP WITH PICS - Page 4 - JeepForum.com
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post #46 of 322 Old 01-08-2007, 03:44 PM
julietkilo
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Oh and yeah about burning up the motor. I would hook up the circuit board and use a tester to find the voltage for the motor and clutch. Then I would use those setings to build a recitifier circuit to convert 12 volts to the correct voltages and wattage needs of the motor and other circuit. Then wires those to a switch. My guess is that the motor burned up due to over voltage not over amperage (power). The thing is about electronics is that they will only use the amps that are required so you cant over amperage (power) the component. BUT you can use too much voltage to ruin an electronic device. Voltage is what hurts the unit, not amps.

Think of it like this...

If you're looking for a way to figure amperage, the solution is

Watts / Volts = Amps OR MOTOR/ 13.8 VOLTS = AMPERAGE DRAW

So if you're running a 25 watt motor from about 13.8 volts from the vehicle, you'd be looking at about 1.8 amps. (small motor example)



From http://science.howstuffworks.com/question501.htm:

The three most basic units in electricity are voltage (V), current (I) and resistance (r). Voltage is measured in volts, current is measured in amps and resistance is measured in ohms.

A neat analogy to help understand these terms is a system of plumbing pipes. The voltage is equivalent to the water pressure, the current is equivalent to the flow rate, and the resistance is like the pipe size.

There is a basic equation in electrical engineering that states how the three terms relate. It says that the current is equal to the voltage divided by the resistance.

I = V/r

Let's see how this relation applies to the plumbing system. Let's say you have a tank of pressurized water connected to a hose that you are using to water the garden.

What happens if you increase the pressure in the tank? You probably can guess that this makes more water come out of the hose. The same is true of an electrical system: Increasing the voltage will make more current flow.

Let's say you increase the diameter of the hose and all of the fittings to the tank. You probably guessed that this also makes more water come out of the hose. This is like decreasing the resistance in an electrical system, which increases the current flow.

Electrical power is measured in watts. In an electrical system power (P) is equal to the voltage multiplied by the current.

P = VI

The water analogy still applies. Take a hose and point it at a waterwheel like the ones that were used to turn grinding stones in watermills. You can increase the power generated by the waterwheel in two ways. If you increase the pressure of the water coming out of the hose, it hits the waterwheel with a lot more force and the wheel turns faster, generating more power. If you increase the flow rate, the waterwheel turns faster because of the weight of the extra water hitting it.

In an electrical system, increasing either the current or the voltage will result in higher power. Let's say you have a system with a 6-volt light bulb hooked up to a 6-volt battery. The power output of the light bulb is 100 watts. Using the equation above, we can calculate how much current in amps would be required to get 100 watts out of this 6-volt bulb.

You know that P = 100 W, and V = 6 V. So you can rearrange the equation to solve for I and substitute in the numbers.

I = P/V = 100 W / 6 V = 16.66 amps

What would happen if you use a 12-volt battery and a 12-volt light bulb to get 100 watts of power?

100 W / 12 V = 8.33 amps

So this system produces the same power, but with half the current. There is an advantage that comes from using less current to make the same amount of power. The resistance in electrical wires consumes power, and the power consumed increases as the current going through the wires increases. You can see how this happens by doing a little rearranging of the two equations. What you need is an equation for power in terms of resistance and current. Let's rearrange the first equation:

I = V / R can be restated as V = I R

Now you can substitute the equation for V into the other equation:

P = V I substituting for V we get P = IR I, or P = I2R

What this equation tells you is that the power consumed by the wires increases if the resistance of the wires increases (for instance, if the wires get smaller or are made of a less conductive material). But it increases dramatically if the current going through the wires increases. So using a higher voltage to reduce the current can make electrical systems more efficient. The efficiency of electric motors also improves at higher voltages.




OK BACK TO ME NOW, if you read that then you are serious about doing a reliable setup. Sorry it took so much.

In order to make this thing operate right I will have to test it with some voltmeters and a oscilloscope. Then build a cheap power supply to convert the 13.8 volts into a usable source of power and voltage.

A simple resistor will not supply the correct voltage, that is why there was that complicated circuit board in there, it held the functions of operation, power requirements, etc.

Thanks for hanging in there with me, great writeup by the way. It looks pretty easy to install and your definately a pioneer. Thanks for the PART #

Brandon


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post #47 of 322 Old 01-08-2007, 04:06 PM
TellyDSP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brfertig
I wonder what DC will think when they see all the sales of these parts to stores across the US.
They'll think, "we just lost a truckload of money because we priced the part incorrectly. Where's that IT guy? He's fired."

-Craig-
95 Rio Grande
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post #48 of 322 Old 01-08-2007, 04:08 PM
Richmond88yj
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Outstanding!

- Ernie


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post #49 of 322 Old 01-08-2007, 04:43 PM
Mitchness
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Score! Will have, in-hand on Friday. Paid $80 and change. Stupid WA sales tax!

He told me that there were 3 in Wisconsin and 6 in the warehouse back east (wherever that is). He said it looks like they're gonna keep making them, but at that price he wasn't sure. He didn't sound overly surprised, but what do I care, bwa ha!

EDIT: hmm, that was weird.

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Then again, I live in the mountains and sip (non-taxed) corn whiskey for a living... I may not know what the heck I'm talking about... lol
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post #50 of 322 Old 01-08-2007, 04:47 PM
FSTG60MAN
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Flexing pics please!!!!!!!!!

sold the zj back in a yj, skyjacker 7000 absorbers, bfg 31x10.5x15 all terrains, hella lighting, highlift and more tow straps than god.
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post #51 of 322 Old 01-08-2007, 04:51 PM
atomicmoose
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TellyDSP
They'll think, "we just lost a truckload of money because we priced the part incorrectly. Where's that IT guy? He's fired."
SO true.

When I called my parts guy, he was like,

"What year Jeep do you own, sir?"
"88 YJ, why?"
"You know this is a part for a 07 Wrangler, right?"
"Yup, and it is compatible with my year."
"Well, ok then. BTW, where did you hear about this?"
"Jeepforum.com on the internet."
"I ask because you are the second person to order this part today, and I was wondering why you guys needed them already."


I got a chuckle from it.
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post #52 of 322 Old 01-08-2007, 05:03 PM
julietkilo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TellyDSP
They'll think, "we just lost a truckload of money because we priced the part incorrectly. Where's that IT guy? He's fired."
I wonder what they actually retail for?

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post #53 of 322 Old 01-08-2007, 05:32 PM
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Just ordered mine today. $67.70, after tax the total came to $73.45 I think you got riped off when you paid $80 for yours....lol

'93 YJ 4.6L stroker, AX-15, NP-231HD/SYE, 8.8in rear, OME 2.5 lift, home made front hub conversion, hydroboost. Warn M10000 winch.

'79 Cherokee Chief, 401 MPFI fuel injection, T-18/D-20 and hydroboost. Otherwise stock.
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post #54 of 322 Old 01-08-2007, 06:19 PM
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got mine ordered this morning. $50.78 + tax shipped my cost.

1988 Wrangler, 2000 Cherokee Freedom Edition,
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post #55 of 322 Old 01-08-2007, 06:34 PM
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Any word on how JeepMKcomin is making out with the TJ conversion for this? I PMed him and I'm just waiting to hear back.


-Mike
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post #56 of 322 Old 01-08-2007, 06:39 PM
Richmond88yj
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This SUCKS!!!!!!! Payday isn't till Wednesday, The jig will be up by then.

- Ernie


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post #57 of 322 Old 01-08-2007, 06:50 PM
julietkilo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Richmond 88 YJ
This SUCKS!!!!!!! Payday isn't till Wednesday, The jig will be up by then.
Call your dealership today or tomorrow since its so late and have them order it. You wont need to pay for it until it arrives so you can order it now and pay later. This is what I did.

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post #58 of 322 Old 01-08-2007, 07:30 PM
atomicmoose
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brfertig
Call your dealership today or tomorrow since its so late and have them order it. You wont need to pay for it until it arrives so you can order it now and pay later. This is what I did.
My dealership made me pay in advance... It sounds like Paul didn't have to do this though, so maybe different dealers do things differently?
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post #59 of 322 Old 01-08-2007, 07:37 PM Thread Starter
paultyler
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brfertig
Call your dealership today or tomorrow since its so late and have them order it. You wont need to pay for it until it arrives so you can order it now and pay later. This is what I did.
Yeah I didn't have to pay until it arrived.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Richmond 88 YJ
This SUCKS!!!!!!! Payday isn't till Wednesday, The jig will be up by then.
LOL. That's classic.


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This Uncle Paul guy seems to know what he's talking about.
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post #60 of 322 Old 01-08-2007, 07:58 PM
Richmond88yj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paultyler
Yeah I didn't have to pay until it arrived.



LOL. That's classic.

Hey Paul... Seriously this is one fantastic mod for the YJ, Thanks for taking the risk and for doing such a great write up. This is right up there with John Nutters bypass.

Thanks for all you do for the community!

- Ernie


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