ZJ Shut Down While Driving - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 11 Old 08-15-2019, 11:22 AM Thread Starter
RepBolt
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1997 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Bay Area
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ZJ Shut Down While Driving

Had a pretty scary experience today. I was driving on the highway when all of a sudden my ZJ shut down. Luckily I had room to pull over on the side of the highway. I tried jump starting it, but that didn't work. After some research, I may have to replace the crankshaft position sensor (MOPAR 56027870). Anyone else have an idea what it could be?

I've replaced the following parts:
  • Oil Pan
  • Water Pump Stud Kit
  • Oil Pan Gasket
  • Valve Cover Gasket
  • Water Pump Gasket
  • Water Pump
  • Belt
  • Idler Pulley
  • Belt Tensioner
  • Radiator Fan Clutch
  • Oil Pump
  • Oil Filter
  • Crankshaft Seal (Rear)
  • Crankshaft Seal (Front)
  • Gear Box
  • Transfer Case rebuilt


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post #2 of 11 Old 08-15-2019, 11:34 AM
Timo_90xj
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I would check codes, but if you are getting fuel & no spark, it's most likely either crankshaft sensor or coil.
If you have no fuel and no spark, ASD relay is a good candidate. If no fuel, I'd start with fuel pump relay.

..and of course check the fuses in PDC.
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1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX daily driver, 1.75" BB, 32" KM2s, HPD30 Eaton e-locker/D44a stock LSD, 4.56 gears, custom- fabbed tube bumpers and tube fenders,...


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1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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post #3 of 11 Old 08-15-2019, 11:57 AM
jeeepguy
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Had the same issue about three years ago. Ended up being the CPS as well.

"Si Vis Pacem Para Bellum"

"Great danger lies in the notion that we can reason with evil"
Doug Patton
Quote:
...We use words like honor, code, loyalty. We use these words as the backbone of a life spent defending something. ...I have neither the time nor the inclination to explain myself to a man who rises and sleeps under the blanket of the very freedom that I provide, then questions the manner in which I provide it. I would rather you just said thank you, and went on your way, Otherwise, I suggest you pick up a weapon, and stand a post...
Quote:
I bought the HI-WAY BLASTER HORN that's 139dB and every time I honk the horn an Angel dies.
Quote:
Revelation 13:16-18
16 - He causes all, both small and great, rich and poor, free and slave, to receive a mark on their right hand or on their foreheads,
17 - and that no one may buy or sell except one who has the mark or the name of the beast, or the number of his name.
18 - Here is wisdom. Let him who has understanding calculate the number of the beast, for it is the number of a man: (Real ID and RFID chips)
Think about it...
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post #4 of 11 Old 08-21-2019, 02:40 PM Thread Starter
RepBolt
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I dropped my car off at the shop to get it diagnosed/fixed since it wasn't starting. I wasn't sure if it was the crank sensor, cam sensor or fuel pump. I had to get it towed to the shop and once they took it off the tow truck, it started. One day later, it's still starting and running. I know I have an issue somewhere, and feel uncomfortable with driving it. And the mechanic said he's waiting for it to die so he can do another diagnose.

Here's the repair costs he's charging:

Crank sensor $280
Fuel pump: $600
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post #5 of 11 Old 08-21-2019, 03:01 PM
Timo_90xj
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Your mechanic didn't diagnose, that was just guesswork ending up costing you a ton of money.

1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX daily driver, 1.75" BB, 32" KM2s, HPD30 Eaton e-locker/D44a stock LSD, 4.56 gears, custom- fabbed tube bumpers and tube fenders,...


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1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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post #6 of 11 Old 08-21-2019, 03:15 PM Thread Starter
RepBolt
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Timo_90xj View Post
Your mechanic didn't diagnose, that was just guesswork ending up costing you a ton of money.
You're not wrong. He didn't diagnose anything and actually isn't charging me for my Jeep being at his shop for a day since he didn't fix anything yet. But he guessed that it could either be the crank sensor or fuel pump causing this issue, but just not sure which or if it's even the issue.
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post #7 of 11 Old 08-21-2019, 08:05 PM
RedRiverT
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There is always the ever popular computer (PCM, "Powertrain Control Module") that could be the problem. I would say it is somewhat likely. Or if you're lucky, it could be simply that the electrical wiring ground locations need to be cleaned and shined up and returned to A1 electrical conductivity condition. That is entirely possible.

The good news is that even if it is the PCM, you can get one for less than $280 and they are easy to change. There is a poster on here "Kolak" of Kolak Performance and several years ago he was selling new ones for less than $280. There are cheaper ones, but they are reputed to be iffy. I got one at a junkyard for $75 from a running vehicle and I've put over 70,000 miles on it. At LKQ here, they want something like $27 for them, with a one month warranty. If you get a junkyard one, you have to make sure it matches your Jeep with regards to whether it has the factory security system or not. And it has to be the same engine, you can't mix straight 6 to V8.
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post #8 of 11 Old 08-21-2019, 08:19 PM
RedRiverT
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Oh yeah, you can have the mechanic test the crank position sensor, so he's not just throwing parts at it.

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/testing-cps-5563/
https://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/ch...-sensor-test-1

Supposedly they are either good or bad, no "sort of going out". The wiring to the crank position sensor could also have a problem and be able to be fixed without replacing.

There is also a common problem where the wiring to the oxygen sensor in the exhaust pipe will rub through against something and I guess because it is blowing around in the wind under the Jeep, it will occasionally touch metal and short, causing the PCM to shut off the engine.

If it shuts off again, and you are in a quiet location, you could turn the key to ON, not all the way to START, and if you have the window down, or someone to stand back there and listen, you should be able to hear the fuel pump whine as it runs for a couple of seconds when you first turn on the key. That would tell you if it is working. Or, there is a fuel pressure test port on the fuel line at the engine. It is like a tire's valve, but a little bigger. If you turn the key ON, then take the dust cap off the test valve, then with a rag & screwdriver or something, push in the pin in the valve. If fuel sprays out rather vigorously, you have good fuel pressure and thus the pump is working. The proper way is the hook up a fuel pressure test gauge, but most people get them as a loan-a-tool from an auto parts store, so you probably won't have one when you need it.
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post #9 of 11 Old 08-22-2019, 10:09 PM Thread Starter
RepBolt
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Location: Bay Area
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I didn't end up getting the fuel pump and crankshaft sensor replaced. My mechanic had it for a couple of days and decided it might be the ignition switch that needed replacing. He replaced it and my Jeep has been starting ever since. This most likely isn't the last problem I'll have, but at least my Jeep is running for now.
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post #10 of 11 Old 08-23-2019, 01:42 PM
nujeeper54
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NTK makes the factory (MOPAR) part. you can buy one at Rockauto for $20 and change. It has one bolt holding it in, and one connector. That's all it took to get my $400 98 ZJ running after the PO had replaced the fuel pump thinking that's why it wouldn't start. He sold it on craigslist for parts haha
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post #11 of 11 Old 08-24-2019, 08:36 AM
V8GCZJ
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Quote:
But he guessed that it could either be the crank sensor or fuel pump causing this issue, but just not sure which or if it's even the issue.

Quote:
Oh yeah, you can have the mechanic test the crank position sensor, so he's not just throwing parts at it.

If he was a real "mechanic" he could narrow it down by reading live data and testing. It's called diagnosing!



Quote:
Supposedly they are either good or bad, no "sort of going out".

Not always, They can give intermittent signals back to the pcm.
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