ZJ Dead Battery/clicking sound inside cabin - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 11 Old 01-28-2016, 11:06 PM Thread Starter
DownInAHole
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ZJ Dead Battery/clicking sound inside cabin

Hey guys! Just bought a 96 ZJ Laredo with 203k. My battery keeps dying after sitting over night and after being jump started it will die after 30mins of being shut off. I'm familiar with forums and the search feature and found some old threads on this issue but didn't get a clear answer. It's obviously an electrical issue/draw somewhere but idk where.
Ive noticed the following things so far:
I pulled the CTSY LSD fuse and the clicking stopped (no more interior lights of course)
I've tried the rear wiper for the first time today, it past once over the window and stopped and would not operate again(stuck on the opposite side).
The right rear door does not illuminate the interior lights when door is opened(CTSY fuse in), all other doors including the rear hatch illuminate the lights.
All door locks make noise when driver side switch is used but not all doors actually lock or unlock. Basically sounds like they're trying to but can't.
Vehicle has sat overnight before and started up the next day, not consistent though, mostly dies.
Alternator chargers at around 13.86v
When off, battery is at 12.47v

That's all I can think of now, if anything here Sounds like a red flag for you guys and/or there are other places I should check out I would appreciate any info.
Read something about the BCM but didn't understand what that was and how to troubleshoot it.
Thanks guys!


Last edited by DownInAHole; 01-28-2016 at 11:37 PM.
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post #2 of 11 Old 01-29-2016, 01:35 AM
jhp0802
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I assume CTSY LSD stands for courtesy lamps.

Anyways, it is a common problem in the ZJs to have a "parasitic battery drain" which is usually killed by pulling the #7 fuse on the fuse panel, which has the courtesy lamps on it (at least I know it kills the lights/dash gauges when the fuse is pulled)

The most common problems could be any of the following: Rear tailgate latch, rear window latch, or the rear wiper motor.

Since you said that the wiper motor has "failed" it could be that the wiper motor is causing the draw. Just go to the back, pull the panel and pull the plug/plugs and see if that stops the drain.

For the rear passenger door not activating the lights, maybe check and see if the little black "button" is there at all, or it might just be broken.

If none of this works, you could hook up a multimeter or test light to the battery and go through the fuses until the light or draw goes away.

EDIT: I also believe the clicking is the alarm or headlight relay, it would do that and get worse/louder on how drained my battery was on my ZJ when I had the problem.

98 ZJ Laredo Special Edition 5.2L V8, 31" GY Duratracs, IRO 4.5" Premium Lift Kit [email protected]_zj
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post #3 of 11 Old 01-29-2016, 09:59 AM Thread Starter
DownInAHole
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Yeah after posting, I found a write-up on basically fixing the rear wiper when it freezes up like it is so I will do that and when it's out I'll check the electrical as well.

Yes the rear pass door black "button" is there and moves in and out. If it's making contact with anything, idk, prolly not since it's not activating the lights.

What is weird is the times that it did not die overnight. I've been working on this thing since I bought it. The carpet was missing along with the headliner so I've been in and out, opening and closing the doors. Maybe some loose connection is there somewhere that when a door or rear hatch is closed it made contact and stopped the draw. Not sure if that makes any sense but I'll replace that rear door "button" and fix the wiper motor and go from there. I'll post up what I find. Thanks for the response jhp0802!
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post #4 of 11 Old 01-29-2016, 10:25 AM
GOLDWING
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I chased my tail on two different cars this last fall looking for a parasitic drain. The cars would start and run normally and then (occasionally at first) just go dead in a few hours. In both cases the problem was an internal short in the battery. (Both batteries were still under warranty) Now when I have a phantom drain, the first thing I do is test the battery.

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post #5 of 11 Old 01-29-2016, 12:30 PM Thread Starter
DownInAHole
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Yeah I have the battery on charge now but I'll take it autozone for a test as well. I'm leaving town for the weekend so I'll get to work on it next week. I still have to carpet to install and some other issues to address, this battery drain thing is just really annoying. I pull it in the garage to work on other things and then have to push it out and jump it with my other car to get it started again. UGH!
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post #6 of 11 Old 01-29-2016, 12:35 PM
kg6mov
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It's easy to tell if the jeep is actually drawing current when off. Just get a multimeter. Once you verify that the jeep is draining the battery you can start pulling fuses to isolate it.



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post #7 of 11 Old 01-29-2016, 01:19 PM Thread Starter
DownInAHole
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I was doing this last night. voltage was pretty steady at about 12.47 when off until I opened and closed the right rear door and it dropped about .10 volts but then came back up to 12.47. I'm going to replace the door jam switch first, then rebuild the rear wiper motor. I'll keep the post updated once I get more info. Thanks again for the replies.
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post #8 of 11 Old 01-29-2016, 01:41 PM
kg6mov
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Don't go off voltage, do an actual current draw test. Drain when off should be under 100 milliamps, preferably closer to 20.


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1984 F250, 460 BB, T19, work truck/future tow pig
1987 Mercedes 300D Turbo, the diesel daily, 30mpg in style

Quote:
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I heard someone yell "mall crawler" from the back porch. I'll go see who said that. Be right back.
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post #9 of 11 Old 02-06-2016, 12:19 AM Thread Starter
DownInAHole
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Hey so haven't had much time to do draw testing but here is what is going on currently. I had the jeep at a buddies house for him to weld up some exhausts leaks, told him about the battery dying so he put it on the charger. When I came back he said it doesn't hold a charge very well. I've been taking the negative cable off when not in use. When I put it back on, it starts right up no prob. Would a battery not holding a charge do that? I don't run it very long, basically drive it from the side yard to the garage and back a lil later.

regarding the right rear door not illuminating the interior lights from my original post. I snagged a couple door jam switches from the junk yard and when I went to install one the cable wasn't hooked up, so I dug it out of the door and plugged it in. Once plugged in and screwed back to the door, the interior lights do not turn off at all. Not sure what would cause it to do that. I tried 3 diff switches.

Lastly the rear wiper. I thought it seized up but that also doesn't seem the case. If you activate it, it passes the rear window once and stops, then at some time unknown to me it comes back across to the resting position. Does this sound like it might have a short? Rear squirter works great if that helps any haha.
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post #10 of 11 Old 02-06-2016, 05:34 PM
kg6mov
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Was he charging it in the jeep connected? If you've got parasitic draw then it will act like it doesn't want to hold a charge.

Running a battery dead repeatedly will kill it though. The parasitic draw in my niner destroyed the battery by the time I got it fixed.


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1984 F250, 460 BB, T19, work truck/future tow pig
1987 Mercedes 300D Turbo, the diesel daily, 30mpg in style

Quote:
Originally Posted by Texas ZJ1 View Post
I heard someone yell "mall crawler" from the back porch. I'll go see who said that. Be right back.
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post #11 of 11 Old 02-06-2016, 07:08 PM
timmay5309
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I second the defective battery issue. Mine would drain faster when it was cold out. Disconnected the rear hatch switch, did the parasitic draw test, could not find anything pulling too much current. I went through two of the Wal-Mart Maxx batteries under warranty, so I did not think that was the issue. Finally got sick of hooking up the battery charger daily, bought a battery at Advance Auto using one of the 30% off codes, not a single problem in 6 months. The jeep can sit for a week and crank right up when it is below freezing now.
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