ZJ 5.2 V8 Engine Removal - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 12 Old 11-23-2016, 05:54 PM Thread Starter
Zack97318ZJ
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ZJ 5.2 V8 Engine Removal

I've been looking online for a good guide on how to take out a 5.2 engine out of your ZJ. I found many for Dodge Rams, but none for these jeeps. So what i will be attempting to do, put a decent, helpful story on how i removed my engine. So long story short i was mudding with some friends and some muddy water got into my pod air filter (Worst purchase id made for my jeep by far, just keep the stock airbox.) and my motor stopped right in the pit of mud. Eventually, the next day i got it towed back to my house and got to see the damage, a couple inches of water in my intake manifold... Needless to say i wasn't happy, couple days later i found a used 5.2 out of a ZJ on craigslist with 137k (Which is strangely what my old busted motor had on it) for 250$ couple days i drove a couple hours later and picked it up. Just a few days ago i got started on removing the old engine. I had a lot of trouble getting the old motor out, a lot of the things were easy to take off and move out of the way but after i had all the bolts out of the bell housing (I left the transmission in the car and just pulled the motor) i could not get the torque converter to slide off of the (input shaft?) in the transmission, i could spin the flywheel around to get the bolts out of the flywheel. So i couldn't get the torque converter to slide out of the transmission, one of the things i did to get it off was jack the transmission up to the bottom of the car so it couldn't move with the engine. Then, i smacked the **** out of the back of the oil pan to maybe loosen it up, but i got nowhere. What i ended up doing was taking the oil pan off the engine (Their isn't enough room to take it out, just lay it on the axel) then i smacked on the bottom of the crank with a mallet, i think it must have loosened it up enough to get the torque converter to pop off. Because the next time i pulled on the hoist it popped right out. I was kind of tight on space when i did mine so i couldnt lift it (the hoist) up all the way. I ended up breaking part of the thing that the grille sits on(No big deal, put the grille back on and you cant even see the damage). That's all i got for now, ask any questions you got and ill do my best to answer them. Thanks!

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post #2 of 12 Old 11-23-2016, 07:45 PM
wingless
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Wow!

Welcome to the forum!

First suggestion, move the hammer to the back of the toolbox.

Second, observation, most just leave the AC compressor and system intact, moving it to the side.

It looks like the engine was lifted from the plenum bolts. If so, it is really good that those light duty bolts withstood the load. IMO, the best place to lift the engine is from the threaded holes facing forward and rearward on the cylinder heads. The bolts are much larger than for the plenum and the force on the bolt is shear instead of pull.

Remove all the stuff from the front of the engine, the compressor, the generator, the large cast aluminum support and the fan to expose the front head bolts for lifting points.

It might be better / easier to also yank the transmission, so the engine and transmission can be mated in the open and slid in as an assembly. That is how I did mine.






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post #3 of 12 Old 11-23-2016, 08:22 PM
monte350
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why is it that when i read about someone removing the engine, nobody thinks to unbolt the torque converter from the flexplate? its four bolts and then the engine comes right out.

1995 Cherokee(XJ)-Rolled it
1998 Grand Cherokee(ZJ)-Sold it
1997 Grand Cherokee(ZJ)-DD
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post #4 of 12 Old 11-23-2016, 09:04 PM Thread Starter
Zack97318ZJ
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Since the engine was seized, I could not spin the flywheel to get to all 4 bolts, that's why.
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post #5 of 12 Old 11-24-2016, 12:28 AM
Zilliver
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Hey guys,

Im thinking of getting a 5.9 to build up. Is there any marking that I can look, when checking the engine out?

Dont want to buy a 5.2 for a 5.9

98 Grand Cherokee 5.9 - daily
'95 Grand Cherokee 5.2 - offroad
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post #6 of 12 Old 11-24-2016, 12:36 AM
kg6mov
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From elsewhere:

Quote:
All Magnum engines are stamped either 360 or 318 on the driver’s side near the rear of the block. The casting number found on all 360 Magnum blocks is 5302006, whereas the 5.2/318 Magnums are 53006714 or 53006657. Otherwise, the 5.2 and 5.9 appear pretty much identical.
The harmonic balancer is different, that might be a good clue.

Of course if you have the VIN it's easy (Z engine code).


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post #7 of 12 Old 11-24-2016, 05:43 AM
Zilliver
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Thanks for the info

98 Grand Cherokee 5.9 - daily
'95 Grand Cherokee 5.2 - offroad
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post #8 of 12 Old 11-24-2016, 05:44 AM
wingless
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Here are the 318 markings on my engine. One is obstructed by parts on the front of the engine, the other is blocked by the exhaust manifold. My prior image shows a big sticker on the driver's side rocker cover w/ 5302 0254.






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post #9 of 12 Old 11-24-2016, 07:14 PM
monte350
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zack97318ZJ View Post
Since the engine was seized, I could not spin the flywheel to get to all 4 bolts, that's why.
i fully understand your situation. i have never dealt with a seized motor in any of my engine swaps.

1995 Cherokee(XJ)-Rolled it
1998 Grand Cherokee(ZJ)-Sold it
1997 Grand Cherokee(ZJ)-DD
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post #10 of 12 Old 11-25-2016, 11:47 PM
HighLonesome
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He never mentioned the motor was seized. lol...lame thread award 2016
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post #11 of 12 Old 11-26-2016, 03:17 PM
GOLDWING
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He sort of inferred that it was hydro-locked by the mention of the two inches of water in the intake manifold. Pulling the spark plugs might have freed it up though.

GW

"The Dude Abides"
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post #12 of 12 Old 11-27-2016, 09:17 AM Thread Starter
Zack97318ZJ
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I tried everything I could, I took out the plugs and starter and when I tried to turn the harmonic balancer bolt and I just broke it loose, put it back in and tried the other way and it didn't move at all.
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