What did you do to your ZJ today? - Page 3422 - JeepForum.com
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post #51316 of 51466 Old 08-25-2019, 12:50 AM
1shotleft
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IMMORTEN View Post
I asked in the tech section, but I didnít get a reply

Can anyone recommend any good low cost exhaust manifolds for the 4.0?

Doesnít have to be a ďperformanceĒ manifold, an OEM one is fine. Just needs to be good quality and low cost.



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Rockauto has them for a decent price.

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post #51317 of 51466 Old 08-25-2019, 05:58 AM
wingless
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Originally Posted by wingless View Post
The part I used was the Mopar 5211 7709 Timing Probe Grommet. It was purchased online from one of the Mopar suppliers and was inexpensive.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BeardyHat View Post
Do you have any good sources for this? Been doing some searching and found the part for the 4.0/42re, but the part for the 44re is discontinued/not for sale on every site that I've found so far.
The vendor I purchased from shows this part as NLA.

My transmission is a 46RH. The part number for yours may be different.


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post #51318 of 51466 Old 08-25-2019, 08:08 AM
KiloWatts
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I broke a control arm bolt yesterday. No power tools. I just kept tightening and tightening and BANG! I suspected something was wrong, but had no idea I was capable of such destruction.

1996 4.0 L6 RWD
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post #51319 of 51466 Old 08-25-2019, 11:10 AM
winging it
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KiloWatts View Post
I broke a control arm bolt yesterday. No power tools. I just kept tightening and tightening and BANG! I suspected something was wrong, but had no idea I was capable of such destruction.
Better that you broke it than having it happen on the road.

GW
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post #51320 of 51466 Old 08-25-2019, 11:57 AM
KiloWatts
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True dat!

1996 4.0 L6 RWD
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post #51321 of 51466 Old 08-25-2019, 12:37 PM
RocketFox650
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Quote:
Originally Posted by riiz View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by KiloWatts View Post
Trying to diagnose a difficult start. Starter cranks but engine needs a lot of convincing to turn over.
Occasionally it will stall in traffic, or sometimes lurch. No codes.

I am suspecting the iridium spark plugs I put in a couple months ago, and some wires that don't have a good grip. I'm replacing them with champion copper on Saturday.
Besides the possible bad spark, have you checked fuel pressure? Kind of sounds like you might have a pump that isnt building enough pressure or a restricted fuel filter.
Those Bosch Iridium +2 & +4 plugs can actually catch a piece of carbon in between the prongs and can cause a miss or dead cylinder. I doubt that's your problem, but fuel for thought anyways...
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post #51322 of 51466 Old 08-25-2019, 12:47 PM
RocketFox650
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IMMORTEN View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1shotleft View Post
Changed the rear diff fluid, cover was all wet from oil seeping out. Also hit it with some fresh paint before install.

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I need to do mine too, is it difficult to do?


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No..... You unbolt it, clean your gasket surface on the axle AND cover with something (I use brake cleaner for everything), bolt it back on with a fresh gasket (or you can use form-a-gasket, black RTV, etc), and fill it through the fill hole (add until it starts to come back out the fill hole when the Jeep is level) with a quality differential fluid like Lucas, put the fill plug back in. Done.
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post #51323 of 51466 Old 08-25-2019, 12:52 PM
RocketFox650
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeardyHat View Post
Well, I'm stuck between a rock and a hard place or a transmission and transmission tunnel. The cheapo Harbor Freight transmission jack either is badly designed or I did something incorrectly, as the transmission immediately started to slip and fall over to the passenger side. Now it's kind of jammed-up against the jack (which is bending) and the transmission tunnel, if I let things down anymore, it's definitely going to topple over onto it's side.

So, I'm kind of stuck at this point. It's sort-of braced on the transmission tunnel with the jackstands/jacks supporting it, but I'm not exactly sure where to go from here. Think I'm going to need to wait until next weekend when I can get a second set of hands to help me figure things out. I was kind of thinking about using my regular jack to brace it at the bellhousing and then put the crossmember back in, so it can't fall too far in the back and then trying to slowly let down the transmission jack, but I'm not sure.

Edit: I'm thinking if I go get a proper transmission jack, I can get it around the mounting point for the crossmember mount and potentially let the original jack down while the other holds things steady.
http://www.harborfreight.com/800-lbs...ack-60234.html

I think I'm realizing the jack I bought is just not correct for this application.
How heavy are ZJ transmissions? My manual YJ trans is light enough that I was able to remove/install it by hand. A couple strong guys/second set of hands oughta do you right.
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post #51324 of 51466 Old 08-25-2019, 08:19 PM
KiloWatts
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RocketFox650 View Post
Those Bosch Iridium +2 & +4 plugs can actually catch a piece of carbon in between the prongs and can cause a miss or dead cylinder. I doubt that's your problem, but fuel for thought anyways...
It's been running like a champ for the last few days. I think when I changed the plugs and wires it must've taken the PCM a few days to relearn the new configuration. I was getting ~10mpg with the other plugs. Now I'm getting 14.5 with the Champion Copper 412 RC12LYC.

I was trying to find the receipt to check the brand and see if they were iridium or platinum but apparently I didn't buy them online, so unfortunately I don't have an answer there.

1996 4.0 L6 RWD
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post #51325 of 51466 Old 08-26-2019, 08:07 AM
IMMORTEN
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Fixed my exhaust on my Jeep today.

Turned out it was cracked one place and had a hole in another....so yeah 2 exhaust leaks!

Donít you just love dirt roads?


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post #51326 of 51466 Old 08-26-2019, 09:09 AM
Mr. Puddles
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KiloWatts View Post
It's been running like a champ for the last few days. I think when I changed the plugs and wires it must've taken the PCM a few days to relearn the new configuration. I was getting ~10mpg with the other plugs. Now I'm getting 14.5 with the Champion Copper 412 RC12LYC.

I was trying to find the receipt to check the brand and see if they were iridium or platinum but apparently I didn't buy them online, so unfortunately I don't have an answer there.

In my time working on older Chrysler products I have discovered that:
1) they run better on Copper plugs. Hands down. Every time.
2) Platinum plugs suck. In my 03 Neon between Seattle and Santa Fe I lost the electrode on one plug. Swapped them for the same kind and lost another electrode between Santa Fe and Dallas.
3) I run iridium in my Dakota ONLY because I was burning through copper plugs every 25-30 k with my MSD box.

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2002 Dakota aka Winnie aka Mad Max
1996 Grand Cherokee aka Puddles aka Pikey Life
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Originally Posted by kg6mov View Post
The 4.0 is dumb old tractor motor, itís too stupid to know itís supposed to die.
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post #51327 of 51466 Old 08-26-2019, 09:11 AM
Mr. Puddles
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In the last week I pulled and replaced the crank pulley (original pulley and the rubber was starting to come out) and front seal as well as the filter adapter seals. Still spraying oil from something. Fml.

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2002 Dakota aka Winnie aka Mad Max
1996 Grand Cherokee aka Puddles aka Pikey Life
Quote:
Originally Posted by kg6mov View Post
The 4.0 is dumb old tractor motor, itís too stupid to know itís supposed to die.
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post #51328 of 51466 Old 08-26-2019, 10:04 AM
KiloWatts
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Originally Posted by Mr. Puddles View Post
In my 03 Neon between Seattle and Santa Fe I lost the electrode on one plug. Swapped them for the same kind and lost another electrode between Santa Fe and Dallas.
What's it like when you lose an electrode? The ground part, or the center? I noticed the ground part on some of mine seemed like they were barely hanging onto the side.

1996 4.0 L6 RWD
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post #51329 of 51466 Old 08-26-2019, 10:18 AM
Mr. Puddles
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KiloWatts View Post
What's it like when you lose an electrode? The ground part, or the center? I noticed the ground part on some of mine seemed like they were barely hanging onto the side.
Electrode is the center part. It resulted in a VERY noticeable dead miss. If your ground straps are getting eaten away near where it connects to the body you have a serious gap issue.

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2002 Dakota aka Winnie aka Mad Max
1996 Grand Cherokee aka Puddles aka Pikey Life
Quote:
Originally Posted by kg6mov View Post
The 4.0 is dumb old tractor motor, itís too stupid to know itís supposed to die.
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post #51330 of 51466 Old 08-27-2019, 09:38 AM
G-Man2
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Replaced Clock Spring

I have been having intermittent issues with speed control not turning on. Found a new OEM Mopar clock spring on Ebay. Seems to be all resolved now. Time will tell. Easy job.
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