What did you do to your ZJ today? - Page 3414 - JeepForum.com
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post #51196 of 51609 Old 08-08-2019, 01:05 AM
Timo_90xj
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Originally Posted by FlamingRain View Post
On the opposite end of the spectrum, I passed 224k a couple weeks ago. Fun fact, original motor, I don't think has had any major work done to it other than tune ups, and I don't lose a drop of oil between oil changes. 5 quarts in, 5 quarts out, every 3000 miles.
I'm at around 150k miles on my niner, when I did the cam and head swap main and rod bearings were perfect. I did have to change cam bearings.

Oil change every 7500 mile or once a year. Using synthetic oil I see no reason for 3k mile oil change intervals. That's for dino oils in the old days.


1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX daily driver, 1.75" BB, 32" KM2s, HPD30 Eaton e-locker/D44a stock LSD, 4.56 gears, custom- fabbed tube bumpers and tube fenders,...


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1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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post #51197 of 51609 Old 08-08-2019, 01:09 AM
FlamingRain
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Well, 3k miles on Dino oil ends up being about 5-6 months for me, so I figure it’s probably okay to change it that short on the mileage.

2wd can really get you places you can't get out of without 4lo. - Ratmonkey
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post #51198 of 51609 Old 08-08-2019, 03:19 AM
IMMORTEN
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I change my oil every 5000 km (or around 3000 miles), mainly because I can’t get 10w30 in synthetic locally here where I live


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post #51199 of 51609 Old 08-08-2019, 03:22 AM
IMMORTEN
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What did you do to your ZJ today?

I am not really under the impression that my ZJ was very well maintained by any of the previous owners

Plus some of the bubba work I have found on it only leads me to conclude that even further


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post #51200 of 51609 Old 08-08-2019, 05:23 AM
wingless
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Originally Posted by wingless View Post
This reply shows the only way to remove / replace the oil pan w/o extra steps.

This reply shows how I removed / replaced the exhaust bolts and the parts used.
Quote:
Originally Posted by wingless View Post
My vehicle is stock in this regard.

The front exhaust wye pipe may be removed w/o yanking the transmission support rail.



Quote:
Originally Posted by firebane View Post
I can't even drop this pipe without removing my oil filter
That is step 3 in the linked instructions.


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post #51201 of 51609 Old 08-08-2019, 01:10 PM
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After seeing what looked like calcium buildup inside my radiator, I just went ahead and replaced it with a new one from Rockauto. The Jeep was getting warm at idle as well in the desert heat with the (mandatory) AC so I figured I would start with the radiator and go from there. The cooling seems to be improved when moving, but still creeps up when idling. Thinking water pump may need to be replaced next, fan clutch is new and thermostat seems to be working fine.

Are flowkooler pumps worth the cost?

'96 ZJ 5.2L, IRO 3.5" lift, KOR radiator support, MVF steering brace, IronMan 1 Ton
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post #51202 of 51609 Old 08-08-2019, 01:25 PM
kg6mov
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Flowkooler seems to be the way to go if you only want to do it once.


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1984 F250, 460 BB, T19, work truck/future tow pig
1987 Mercedes 300D Turbo, the diesel daily, 30mpg in style

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I heard someone yell "mall crawler" from the back porch. I'll go see who said that. Be right back.
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post #51203 of 51609 Old 08-08-2019, 02:14 PM
BeardyHat
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Originally Posted by Xpress View Post
After seeing what looked like calcium buildup inside my radiator, I just went ahead and replaced it with a new one from Rockauto. The Jeep was getting warm at idle as well in the desert heat with the (mandatory) AC so I figured I would start with the radiator and go from there. The cooling seems to be improved when moving, but still creeps up when idling. Thinking water pump may need to be replaced next, fan clutch is new and thermostat seems to be working fine.

Are flowkooler pumps worth the cost?
Been happy with my High Flow Flowkooler, it seemed to work really well, keeping my temps around 195-200.

Had about two and a half to three hours to spend out in the garage this morning and made some decent progress on my transmission; got it drained, everything disconnected and unplugged (with the exception of the breather tube on the TC and the CPS) without too much trouble. The z-linkage really didn't give me too much trouble on the whole, it popped off pretty easily with my Big *** Screwdriver™

Ran into one problem, which was that my sawzall blades were pretty worn, so I ended-up mostly chewing up my exhaust rather than getting it cut off at the end of the Y-Pipe; hopefully that's not too difficult to fix when I need to put things back together. Need to go get some new blades to finish the job. So next after that will be getting the CPS disconnected and then working on the bolts on the bellhousing, from what I can tell, there are about six of them, with a couple being on the front of the casing near the oil pan. Are there a few more on the top?

Also, what's a good tool to get the flywheel to rotate? I'm ready to begin taking the bolts off it, but don't have anything to rotate the motor with so I can access the other bolts. Looks like if I had a big enough socket, I could pop it on to the nut at the crank in front, but are there other methods? I couldn't just turn it by hand, so I'll need some leverage.
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post #51204 of 51609 Old 08-08-2019, 02:58 PM
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What did you do to your ZJ today?

Dear Coolant Sensor Bad,

First, let me thank you for your constant companionship over the last few years. Your chirpy personally, flashy style, and impressive use of three-syllable words have meant a lot to me.

I’m sad to say, though, it’s time to go our separate ways. You’ve done nothing wrong at all - you’re great. It’s just that I now feel a strong need for my own personal (silent) space.

Au revoir mon ami.





Happy New Year!
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post #51205 of 51609 Old 08-08-2019, 08:49 PM
PolkaPower
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xpress View Post
After seeing what looked like calcium buildup inside my radiator, I just went ahead and replaced it with a new one from Rockauto. The Jeep was getting warm at idle as well in the desert heat with the (mandatory) AC so I figured I would start with the radiator and go from there. The cooling seems to be improved when moving, but still creeps up when idling. Thinking water pump may need to be replaced next, fan clutch is new and thermostat seems to be working fine.

Are flowkooler pumps worth the cost?
They are built well but having had one I'm not sure if it's worth the extra cost. The new Crown pump I put on my old 5.9 was also nice and worked well too. I can't say that I've noticed a dramatic difference with the flowkooler on my 5.2. It's definitely cool looking though. If you have the extra money, why not...

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post #51206 of 51609 Old 08-08-2019, 09:23 PM
firebane
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeardyHat View Post
Been happy with my High Flow Flowkooler, it seemed to work really well, keeping my temps around 195-200.

Had about two and a half to three hours to spend out in the garage this morning and made some decent progress on my transmission; got it drained, everything disconnected and unplugged (with the exception of the breather tube on the TC and the CPS) without too much trouble. The z-linkage really didn't give me too much trouble on the whole, it popped off pretty easily with my Big *** Screwdriver™

Ran into one problem, which was that my sawzall blades were pretty worn, so I ended-up mostly chewing up my exhaust rather than getting it cut off at the end of the Y-Pipe; hopefully that's not too difficult to fix when I need to put things back together. Need to go get some new blades to finish the job. So next after that will be getting the CPS disconnected and then working on the bolts on the bellhousing, from what I can tell, there are about six of them, with a couple being on the front of the casing near the oil pan. Are there a few more on the top?

Also, what's a good tool to get the flywheel to rotate? I'm ready to begin taking the bolts off it, but don't have anything to rotate the motor with so I can access the other bolts. Looks like if I had a big enough socket, I could pop it on to the nut at the crank in front, but are there other methods? I couldn't just turn it by hand, so I'll need some leverage.

Easiest way to get at the bolts is to keep the trans on the jack and lower it so it angles it down at the back; if you took your transfer case off prepare to get soaked in fluid


I didn't touch my CPS when doing my trans but YMMV.

Also one of the more annoying things is pulling the dipstick tube
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post #51207 of 51609 Old 08-09-2019, 03:58 AM
Timo_90xj
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Pulling the trans with the CPS connected at the block is OK(ish), but I wouldn't install the transmission with the CPS in place.


Top two bolts are a bit of a pain, can be accessed from either above with a 14mm (9/16") ratchet wrench, or from below/ back by lowering the transmission enough.
Middle bolts (//16") and the lower bolts (IIRC 5/8") are easy.


Buy a socket for the crank pulley bolt and use a T-bar with an extension to rotate engine to access all torque converter bolts.

1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX daily driver, 1.75" BB, 32" KM2s, HPD30 Eaton e-locker/D44a stock LSD, 4.56 gears, custom- fabbed tube bumpers and tube fenders,...


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1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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post #51208 of 51609 Old 08-09-2019, 05:21 AM
IMMORTEN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Timo_90xj View Post
Pulling the trans with the CPS connected at the block is OK(ish), but I wouldn't install the transmission with the CPS in place.


Top two bolts are a bit of a pain, can be accessed from either above with a 14mm (9/16") ratchet wrench, or from below/ back by lowering the transmission enough.
Middle bolts (//16") and the lower bolts (IIRC 5/8") are easy.


Buy a socket for the crank pulley bolt and use a T-bar with an extension to rotate engine to access all torque converter bolts.


Timo’ed


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post #51209 of 51609 Old 08-09-2019, 08:09 AM
BeardyHat
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Looks like my dipstick tube is actually connected at one of the bolts on the bellhousing.

The only thing I'm going to do with the CPS is pull the connection and once I'm back in there, replace the sensor, since I'll have easy access. I'll also be forced to do an oil change, (needed anyway) since it looks like one of the bellhousing bolts is sitting right in front of the oil filter.

My tranny doesn't drop too low, unfortunately since my motor mounts are brand new, but hopefully that won't be too much of a problem. The socket size on the crank is about 32mm, right?

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post #51210 of 51609 Old 08-10-2019, 02:30 AM
Timo_90xj
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If you have the CPS connectors open and CPS installed before installing tranny, be VERY careful. We did manage to squeeze the CPS wire harness between the block and transmission, even though we though we were being extra careful.
Dipstick tube IIRC originally is under one of the mounting bolts, and yes oil filter & starter needs to come out to gain access for the passenger side lower bolt.


Crank bolt is SAE 3/4"-16, so head (socket) size is somewhere in the region of 1 1/16" to 1 1/4". Can't honestly remember which.

1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX daily driver, 1.75" BB, 32" KM2s, HPD30 Eaton e-locker/D44a stock LSD, 4.56 gears, custom- fabbed tube bumpers and tube fenders,...


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1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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