What did you do to your ZJ today? - Page 3405 - JeepForum.com
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post #51061 of 51270 Old 07-16-2019, 12:19 PM
1996maroonzjf
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeardyHat View Post
Well, the Jeep has decided to throw a litany of issues at me, apparently, so I think I may need to just let it sit in the garage for awhile so I can be less frustrated with it.

I replaced the radiator and am trying to get the air out of the system, which was successful, but now my AC compressor won't disengage. Also, I'm not sure if this is related, but my thermostat doesn't want to open, as even getting up beyond 195* I'm not getting any heat in the car.

Not sure if it's a fools errand or not, but I think I'll swap back to my old battery cables for now and see how things go, as I wasn't having any of these issues prior to the new ones.

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Man that sounds like some bad luck, but I wouldn’t put back on the 21 year old presumably corroded / crumbling OEM battery cables. It sound like you took two steps forward and one back, but if you put the old cables on you will be 3 steps back

I feel your pain I had some horrible CCD bus issues with my ZJ last summer on a long planned road trip that turned out to be a disaster b/c of the ZJ. I’ve finally got 99% of the issues resolved, and it been rock solid since. It takes time, (and money) as you know, but eventually you will be there.

Just don’t go backwards. Always forward.

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-Tim
(2) '96 4.0s
#1-'10-'18
#2- HP30/Ford 8.8 - 4.56, OME HDs, 5100's, IRO Adj Arms/Track Bars
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post #51062 of 51270 Old 07-16-2019, 12:38 PM
BeardyHat
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1996maroonzjf View Post
Man that sounds like some bad luck, but I wouldn’t put back on the 21 year old presumably corroded / crumbling OEM battery cables. It sound like you took two steps forward and one back, but if you put the old cables on you will be 3 steps back

I feel your pain I had some horrible CCD bus issues with my ZJ last summer on a long planned road trip that turned out to be a disaster b/c of the ZJ. I’ve finally got 99% of the issues resolved, and it been rock solid since. It takes time, (and money) as you know, but eventually you will be there.

Just don’t go backwards. Always forward.
Yeah, it's just incredibly frustrating!! I actually haven't had a chance to take it for a drive since I finished up the radiator last night and probably won't until tomorrow, but I'm guessing that even my overheating issues aren't fixed yet. Spent a little time just letting it idle in the driveway and eventually put it into Drive, held the brake and gave it some gas and my temps started to climb past 210. Maybe it's a fluke, but between that, no heat and the AC sticking on, I'm guessing my overheating issues aren't close to being resolved. I'll take it for a drive tomorrow and see how it acts, maybe (crossing my fingers), it's just fine.

But if it's not, I just don't know what else to do beyond throwing parts at it, which is why I wanted to at least test out the old cables. I have no idea why the new ones would be causing issues, but it's the only commonality between the problems I started experiencing after putting them in last week.

The hard part is putting it away and letting it rest for awhile. When I get frustrated with something like this, I start to obsess over it and then I have the hardest time putting it away until I calm down and we all know beating your head against a wall isn't the way to successfully accomplish a task!
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post #51063 of 51270 Old 07-16-2019, 02:41 PM
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Originally Posted by KiloWatts View Post
You can wiggle test the PCM or press on it while the engine is running to confirm solder issues. If you're good with a soldering iron you can reflow the joints and the header, which is usually where the problem lies. I preferred to do it this way instead of playing remanufactured roulette. There's a bunch of info in this thread, item #2:

https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/...talls-1407423/



Thanks for the link Kilo Watts
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post #51064 of 51270 Old 07-16-2019, 08:37 PM
FlamingRain
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New water pump is in and NO MORE OVERHEATING! And actually, I have FULL heat in the cab now which has not happened since I've owned the 5.9. Is it possible this water pump has been on it's death bed for a while?

Also - the radiator is leaking again. This will have been the 4th radiator to go into this thing. Am I doing something wrong or have I just had bad quality control?

2wd can really get you places you can't get out of without 4lo. - Ratmonkey
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post #51065 of 51270 Old 07-17-2019, 01:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FlamingRain View Post
New water pump is in and NO MORE OVERHEATING! And actually, I have FULL heat in the cab now which has not happened since I've owned the 5.9. Is it possible this water pump has been on it's death bed for a while?
It is possible, but really depends on the condition of the pump vanes. If they looked like new and not worn out by corrosion, it doubt it was the pump causing the lack of cabin heat.

Quote:
Also - the radiator is leaking again. This will have been the 4th radiator to go into this thing. Am I doing something wrong or have I just had bad quality control?
If it's an el cheapo plastic tank rad., they tend to fail more or less quickly. Some last almost as well as the OEM ones, some fall apart in a couple months. I've mentioned this before, but seems to me even the chinese all- aluminum radiators fail at the tank/ core joint. That being said, I'd still prefer an all aluminum from Rockauto compared to a plastic tank unit. My next radiator will be a universal- fit Griffin 2-row, and I'll make it work.

1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX daily driver, 1.75" BB, 32" KM2s, HPD30 Eaton e-locker/D44a stock LSD, 4.56 gears, custom- fabbed tube bumpers and tube fenders,...


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1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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post #51066 of 51270 Old 07-17-2019, 09:58 AM
FlamingRain
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The first two were plastic tank units, this one is a all aluminum, and I have another plastic tank unit I got on warranty ready to go in as soon as I get the damn inverted flare fittings that are meant for the transmission cooler...

2wd can really get you places you can't get out of without 4lo. - Ratmonkey
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post #51067 of 51270 Old 07-17-2019, 02:32 PM
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Hot, hot, hot!

Tested out the new radiator today and still overheated. As of now, my cooling system is entirely brand new, but still seeing ridiculous temps. On my way home from the store, I had a spike to 255*.

I'm almost wondering now if it's the cheap thermostat I put in maybe getting stuck closed or maybe I put it in wrong when I put RTV around it. It was fine for well over a week, but now maybe it's having issues? Wish I'd saved my old one.

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post #51068 of 51270 Old 07-17-2019, 02:59 PM
wingless
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No head gasket leak, or cracked head causing excessive temperatures, correct?


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post #51069 of 51270 Old 07-17-2019, 03:08 PM
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Buy a cheap IR Temp-gun from harbor freight and use it see where the cooling system is failing.
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post #51070 of 51270 Old 07-17-2019, 05:41 PM
BeardyHat
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Originally Posted by wingless View Post
No head gasket leak, or cracked head causing excessive temperatures, correct?
Not as far as I could tell. I'm not getting immediate pressure at the top hose, which I guess should indicate that. I'm not seeing any oil in my coolant or anything either, but I haven't done any conclusive tests.

I was going to check out the thermostat tomorrow and see if it's sticking closed, since that should be easy to pull and test. Just wondering if the new one is faulty for some reason.

My buddy seems to think it's running lean or maybe there's a bad sensor somewhere or even a continuity issue with a sensor, but that doesn't seem like it to me. Even if the coolant temp sensor was shot, I think my temp gauge would be jumping around or not working at all.

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post #51071 of 51270 Old 07-17-2019, 05:42 PM
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Buy a cheap IR Temp-gun from harbor freight and use it see where the cooling system is failing.
That'd be to see which parts of the cooling system are under temp?

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post #51072 of 51270 Old 07-18-2019, 02:20 AM
Timo_90xj
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Finished my tranny crossmember/ belly skid- combo. I do need to take it sandblasted and then painted, but other than that it's done.
I also welded rear supports to the frame stiffeners.

Skid only has a 2mm thick mild steel plate (~14 gauge steel), but the skid itself is 3/8" UHMW PE (also known as HDPE; this is HDPE 500). Should be plenty strong and slide over rocks way better than abrasion-resistant steel.







1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX daily driver, 1.75" BB, 32" KM2s, HPD30 Eaton e-locker/D44a stock LSD, 4.56 gears, custom- fabbed tube bumpers and tube fenders,...


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1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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post #51073 of 51270 Old 07-18-2019, 02:43 AM
riiz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeardyHat View Post
That'd be to see which parts of the cooling system are under temp?

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Yup, you can follow the hoses and point it above the thermostat and see where a blockage or restriction is, because the temps will greatly differ.
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post #51074 of 51270 Old 07-18-2019, 05:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Timo_90xj View Post
Finished my tranny crossmember/ belly skid- combo. I do need to take it sandblasted and then painted, but other than that it's done.
I also welded rear supports to the frame stiffeners.

Skid only has a 2mm thick mild steel plate (~14 gauge steel), but the skid itself is 3/8" UHMW PE (also known as HDPE; this is HDPE 500). Should be plenty strong and slide over rocks way better than abrasion-resistant steel.






That's really impressive. Does it rattle? I noticed you included some kind of bushings there. Does it also stiffen up the ride a bit?

1996 4.0 L6 RWD
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post #51075 of 51270 Old 07-18-2019, 05:59 AM
Timo_90xj
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Why would it rattle, HDPE plate is tightly bolted onto the skid

Bushings are the transmission mount, I am not using the crappy OEM rubber version at all. It slightly increases vibrations, but not much.

1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX daily driver, 1.75" BB, 32" KM2s, HPD30 Eaton e-locker/D44a stock LSD, 4.56 gears, custom- fabbed tube bumpers and tube fenders,...


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1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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