What did you do to your ZJ today? - Page 3395 - JeepForum.com
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post #50911 of 51485 Old 06-26-2019, 12:13 AM
Timo_90xj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KiloWatts View Post
Had a spare 30mins, figured I'd install the 6-piece headlight assembly that came in the mail today. Ended up breaking a giant hole where the support knob goes. 30mins turned into 3hrs real fast.

Gotta love 20+ year old plastic that's gotten hard and brittle


1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX daily driver, 1.75" BB, 32" KM2s, HPD30 Eaton e-locker/D44a stock LSD, 4.56 gears, custom- fabbed tube bumpers and tube fenders,...


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1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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post #50912 of 51485 Old 06-26-2019, 01:05 AM
IMMORTEN
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Originally Posted by KiloWatts View Post
Had a spare 30mins, figured I'd install the 6-piece headlight assembly that came in the mail today. Ended up breaking a giant hole where the support knob goes. 30mins turned into 3hrs real fast.


Bummer!


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post #50913 of 51485 Old 06-26-2019, 08:36 AM
Zilliver
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Does the D35 wheel bearings and seals fit to D44a ?

98 Grand Cherokee 5.9 - daily
'95 Grand Cherokee 5.2 - offroad
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post #50914 of 51485 Old 06-26-2019, 09:36 AM
Timo_90xj
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Originally Posted by Zilliver View Post
Does the D35 wheel bearings and seals fit to D44a ?
Yes, they are exactly the same on a ZJ.

1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX daily driver, 1.75" BB, 32" KM2s, HPD30 Eaton e-locker/D44a stock LSD, 4.56 gears, custom- fabbed tube bumpers and tube fenders,...


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1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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post #50915 of 51485 Old 06-26-2019, 09:41 AM
Zilliver
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Originally Posted by Timo_90xj View Post
Yes, they are exactly the same on a ZJ.
Kiitos Timo

98 Grand Cherokee 5.9 - daily
'95 Grand Cherokee 5.2 - offroad
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post #50916 of 51485 Old 06-26-2019, 10:15 AM
BeardyHat
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Feeling a little paranoid about reinstalling my new water pump and really want to make sure everything goes well. Should I flush my system out with a garden hose while I've got things disassembled (though I've already put the new thermostat in)? I drained the coolant prior and filled it back up with some flushing fluid and water, then of course have fully drained it while doing disassembly for the pump, but I'm a little worried about particulates in the system.
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post #50917 of 51485 Old 06-26-2019, 10:33 AM
wingless
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When I do my cooling system, I take the controversial step of removing both engine cooling jacket plugs (long ago they were poked open of factory sealant), opening the radiator drain plug, then operate the engine with garden hose water going in and out. I also use the garden hose to flush the heater core. I've used that flush product and haven't noticed any effect.

After the flush I use compressed air to blow out the heater core.

Then I allow to fully drain through the radiator drain and engine jacket drain plugs prior to using a 50/50 antifreeze / distilled water refill.


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post #50918 of 51485 Old 06-27-2019, 08:46 AM
BeardyHat
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Got the pump and whole system flushed out yesterday with some hose water and blew it out a bit with a little blower thing I have, which seemed to work.

Also put in the new transmission cooler return line in and man was the old one in bad shape. The part at the radiator had plenty of holes from the clamp cutting into it, so I'm hoping with the new line that'll also help with the overheating tranny I was having in 4Low.

I'm still not sure about my water pump and gasket; I'm going to use the paper gasket which it came with, before buying anything else at the moment. But Flowkoolers instructions say I should use a sealant and Timo and the FSM both say dry, so I'm not sure. Given that the pump mount isn't perfect, in spite of scrubbing it, I think I may put as thin coat I can make of RTV on the gasket and hope for the best.

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post #50919 of 51485 Old 06-27-2019, 09:50 AM
HRstretch
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Just bought my 1998 Jeep Grand Limited and took it to the mechanic to see why the engine is missing, stalling and backfires. I also have him looking into the no tail light issues. Previous owner has spliced into several wires at the fuse box, so not sure what kinda electrical problems we will run into???



Will see, bought it cheap enough i still have room to spend some money on it before the modifications start.
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post #50920 of 51485 Old 06-27-2019, 10:30 AM
Timo_90xj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeardyHat View Post
I'm still not sure about my water pump and gasket; I'm going to use the paper gasket which it came with, before buying anything else at the moment. But Flowkoolers instructions say I should use a sealant and Timo and the FSM both say dry, so I'm not sure. Given that the pump mount isn't perfect, in spite of scrubbing it, I think I may put as thin coat I can make of RTV on the gasket and hope for the best.

I've pulled my water pump four times, replaced twice - the original, then a new one that started leaking from the pump axle seal very quickly due to a stuck belt tensioner; I've always installed it dry, either with a Mopar or felpro gasket and never had an issue.
Just make sure the timing cover mating surface is smooth and that there are no pieces of old seal left.




This is my previous install from a couple months ago, zero leaks. Felpro gasket installed dry on a few years old water pump and factory original timing cover.


1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX daily driver, 1.75" BB, 32" KM2s, HPD30 Eaton e-locker/D44a stock LSD, 4.56 gears, custom- fabbed tube bumpers and tube fenders,...


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1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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post #50921 of 51485 Old 06-27-2019, 10:46 AM
IMMORTEN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Timo_90xj View Post
I've pulled my water pump four times, replaced twice - the original, then a new one that started leaking from the pump axle seal very quickly due to a stuck belt tensioner; I've always installed it dry, either with a Mopar or felpro gasket and never had an issue.
Just make sure the timing cover mating surface is smooth and that there are no pieces of old seal left.




This is my previous install from a couple months ago, zero leaks. Felpro gasket installed dry on a few years old water pump and factory original timing cover.



Just out of curiosity, is that blue hammerite (with hammered finish?) you have used or did you have those parts powder coated blue?


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post #50922 of 51485 Old 06-27-2019, 10:55 AM
Timo_90xj
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Originally Posted by IMMORTEN View Post
Just out of curiosity, is that blue hammerite (with hammered finish?) you have used or did you have those parts powder coated blue?

Self- etching primer on bare aluminum, paint, and glossy clearcoat:




1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX daily driver, 1.75" BB, 32" KM2s, HPD30 Eaton e-locker/D44a stock LSD, 4.56 gears, custom- fabbed tube bumpers and tube fenders,...


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1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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post #50923 of 51485 Old 06-27-2019, 11:57 AM
BeardyHat
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Timo_90xj View Post
I've pulled my water pump four times, replaced twice - the original, then a new one that started leaking from the pump axle seal very quickly due to a stuck belt tensioner; I've always installed it dry, either with a Mopar or felpro gasket and never had an issue.
Just make sure the timing cover mating surface is smooth and that there are no pieces of old seal left.




This is my previous install from a couple months ago, zero leaks. Felpro gasket installed dry on a few years old water pump and factory original timing cover.

Thanks for the information, I did go ahead and actually put this layers of RTV on either side of the gasket, per the instructions that came with the pump. If it doesn't work out, I'll be getting one of the better gaskets.

Now my problem is my heater core return tube. It's extremely tight and managed to shred my new o ring, so I'll need to go get one of those, hoping Advance has some.

Otherwise, I'm going to let things sit and cure until tomorrow, then I'll get fluid in it and see how it goes.

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post #50924 of 51485 Old 06-27-2019, 12:32 PM
Timo_90xj
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Originally Posted by BeardyHat View Post
Thanks for the information, I did go ahead and actually put this layers of RTV on either side of the gasket, per the instructions that came with the pump. If it doesn't work out, I'll be getting one of the better gaskets.
I don't think RTV harms anything, but at least with a good gasket it's not required.


Quote:
Now my problem is my heater core return tube. It's extremely tight and managed to shred my new o ring, so I'll need to go get one of those, hoping Advance has some.

You should've done what I just did - and how the water pump return hose should've been from the factory.

I drilled the water pump hole to 3/4", and tapped it to 1/2" NPT, then installed a 1/2" NPT heater hose fitting. Tap & fitting cost me around 10$, and another 10$ on a rubber tube and a couple coil springs to prevent hose collapse.






1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX daily driver, 1.75" BB, 32" KM2s, HPD30 Eaton e-locker/D44a stock LSD, 4.56 gears, custom- fabbed tube bumpers and tube fenders,...


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1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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post #50925 of 51485 Old 06-27-2019, 12:51 PM
BeardyHat
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Timo_90xj View Post
I don't think RTV harms anything, but at least with a good gasket it's not required.





You should've done what I just did - and how the water pump return hose should've been from the factory.

I drilled the water pump hole to 3/4", and tapped it to 1/2" NPT, then installed a 1/2" NPT heater hose fitting. Tap & fitting cost me around 10$, and another 10$ on a rubber tube and a couple coil springs to prevent hose collapse.





Definitely would have been helpful, I'm hoping for a thinner o ring on the new one, as the hose seems to fit fine without the ring on it.

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