What did you do to your ZJ today? - Page 3355 - JeepForum.com
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post #50311 of 51473 Old 03-25-2019, 02:14 PM
CombatInfidel
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Added a combined 10hp - do I get more hp if I made them myself?




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post #50312 of 51473 Old 03-25-2019, 02:14 PM
kg6mov
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Your lower CA’s are upside down. The bend is there to clear the shock bracket at droop.

It’s not really a four wheel alignment, that’s usually referring to cars where each wheel can be independantly aligned.

On the rear axle you need to center it, set the pinion, and make sure the tire is clear for the full travel.
On the front you need to adjust control arms and track bar to get a good compromise of axle position, pinion angle, caster angle, and axle center. Then set toe and center the steerign wheel.

A good 4x4 shop will know how to do that, most alignment places won’t deal with aftermarket CA’s.
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1984 F250, 460 BB, T19, work truck/future tow pig
1987 Mercedes 300D Turbo, the diesel daily, 30mpg in style

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Originally Posted by Texas ZJ1 View Post
I heard someone yell "mall crawler" from the back porch. I'll go see who said that. Be right back.
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post #50313 of 51473 Old 03-25-2019, 03:05 PM
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Originally Posted by CombatInfidel View Post
Added a combined 10hp - do I get more hp if I made them myself?




Infidel 6 out
Thanks for your service! I'm an old Air Force guy. Me and Ron Reagan helped win the cold war with Russia. No shots fired.

GW

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post #50314 of 51473 Old 03-25-2019, 04:19 PM
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Thanks for your service! I'm an old Air Force guy. Me and Ron Reagan helped win the cold war with Russia. No shots fired.



GW


Itís an honor and a privilege to have served and thank you as well


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post #50315 of 51473 Old 03-26-2019, 08:18 AM
BeardyHat
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Originally Posted by kg6mov View Post
Your lower CAís are upside down. The bend is there to clear the shock bracket at droop.
Doh!

Well, I didn't get them torqued down anyway. Turns out my wrench only goes to 100ft lbs, so my new one will be here Wednesday.

Thanks for the heads up, kg.

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Originally Posted by kg6mov View Post
On the rear axle you need to center it, set the pinion, and make sure the tire is clear for the full travel.
On the front you need to adjust control arms and track bar to get a good compromise of axle position, pinion angle, caster angle, and axle center. Then set toe and center the steerign wheel.

A good 4x4 shop will know how to do that, most alignment places wonít deal with aftermarket CAís.
Will it still be necessary to get all that set, seeing as I'm currently on stock springs and shocks? I simply matched lengths to the old control arms and put things together. Also, my track bar isn't adjustable.

Also, if needed would the shop adjust them? Looking at the arms after they're in, I'm not sure they're adjustable while in the vehicle. They're the Core 4x4 arms, where they fit into each other, then have a nut to tighten them once they're the appropriate length. I assume one side needs to be unbolted, spun to appropriate length, then bolted back in.

Thanks!


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post #50316 of 51473 Old 03-26-2019, 09:11 AM
kg6mov
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Ah, missed that you were stock height. If you matched lengths then you should be pretty close, and you won’t need to worry about center. Just give things a double check before driving it and check torque a few days later.

Most shops don’t want to adjust aftermarket arms, you gotta ask, a 4x4 shop should.


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1984 F250, 460 BB, T19, work truck/future tow pig
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Texas ZJ1 View Post
I heard someone yell "mall crawler" from the back porch. I'll go see who said that. Be right back.
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post #50317 of 51473 Old 03-26-2019, 09:34 AM
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Originally Posted by kg6mov View Post
Ah, missed that you were stock height. If you matched lengths then you should be pretty close, and you wonít need to worry about center. Just give things a double check before driving it and check torque a few days later.

Most shops donít want to adjust aftermarket arms, you gotta ask, a 4x4 shop should.
Great, thanks!

I'll get those arms flipped around and torqued down hopefully tomorrow and align it if I have the time. Once I get some springs and shocks, I'll give one of our local shops a call and see what they can do for me. I think we have plenty of dedicated 4x4 shops around here, due to being close to the mountains.

Looking forward to driving it with the new arms and bushings, hoping for a much less wallowy ride.
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post #50318 of 51473 Old 03-26-2019, 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by BeardyHat View Post
I'll get those arms flipped around and torqued down hopefully tomorrow and align it if I have the time.
Quick tip, in case you're not already aware - always torque control arm fasteners at ride height, not with the chassis raised. If you torque them with the arms drooping it can severely reduce the life of the bushings.

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post #50319 of 51473 Old 03-26-2019, 03:38 PM
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Originally Posted by CatSplat View Post
Quick tip, in case you're not already aware - always torque control arm fasteners at ride height, not with the chassis raised. If you torque them with the arms drooping it can severely reduce the life of the bushings.
Good tip, thanks. I was under the impression, however, that as long as the axle is under load that it shouldn't be a problem?

I currently have my axle on jack stands, but my Jeep is also jacked in the front as well.

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post #50320 of 51473 Old 03-26-2019, 03:51 PM
kg6mov
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You need the full weight of the jeep on the suspension when torqueing. So jackstands under the axle are fine if the weight is on the axle, but not if other jackstands are also supporting it.

This also doesn’t apply to things like johnny joints and heims that don’t have any way to dampen rotation. It’s really most applicable to the rubber factory style bushings, even the poly ones will spin the sleeve.


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1984 F250, 460 BB, T19, work truck/future tow pig
1987 Mercedes 300D Turbo, the diesel daily, 30mpg in style

Quote:
Originally Posted by Texas ZJ1 View Post
I heard someone yell "mall crawler" from the back porch. I'll go see who said that. Be right back.
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post #50321 of 51473 Old 03-26-2019, 03:54 PM
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Good to know, thanks, fellas. I'll make sure I do it correctly when I swap those arms to the correct position.

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post #50322 of 51473 Old 03-27-2019, 08:01 AM
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I watched allot.of.videos before i touched the torch, pacing is so important, as well as angle and steady hand. I either hold with two hands or lean the torch on my left hand and pivot from there. It makes a big difference. Also make sure your getting enough heat penetration otherwise your just laying metal on the surface.

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Yes I've been watching a large number of videos. But there is no substitute for actually practicing. For my first time, probably could've done better, but I am confident the weld will hold.

For now at least

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post #50323 of 51473 Old 03-27-2019, 09:46 AM
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Yes I've been watching a large number of videos. But there is no substitute for actually practicing. For my first time, probably could've done better, but I am confident the weld will hold.



For now at least
Yeah I did allot of practice welds on junk metal, what I learned was drawing small script lower case i's in a string with the weld tip makes a nice pattern.

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post #50324 of 51473 Old 03-27-2019, 11:03 AM
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Added a combined 10hp - do I get more hp if I made them myself?




Infidel 6 out

Thank you for preserving our freedom sir!


RR>*



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post #50325 of 51473 Old 03-27-2019, 11:04 AM
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Yeah I did allot of practice welds on junk metal, what I learned was drawing small script lower case i's in a string with the weld tip makes a nice pattern.

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Same method Iíve been working on. That or the similar cursive e. Either of you guys use the naval jelly method to check for penetration on coupons? Just picked some up to see how my penetration on different materials actually is. If my life doesnít depend on it Iím happy to weld it


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