What did you do to your ZJ today? - Page 3275 - JeepForum.com
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post #49111 of 51629 Old 05-29-2018, 03:45 PM
Mr. Puddles
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1996 ZJ 
 
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Garage
@PolkaPower looks good. Ive got to do that to my Dakota. I custom fitted a Poison Spyder Hood panel from a TJ. (I think its a TJ)


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2002 Dakota aka Winnie aka Mad Max
1996 Grand Cherokee aka Puddles aka Pikey Life
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post #49112 of 51629 Old 05-29-2018, 04:45 PM
HighLonesome
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Hood vents...what I've noticed over the years is they do not lower engine temps...well maybe a degree or two. What they do do is allow heat to escape when the efan is not running, lowering the baking temperature for your plastic underhood parts. And they seem lower the incab temps a little, not positive tho.
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post #49113 of 51629 Old 05-29-2018, 06:10 PM
wingless
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It would be easy enough to conduct a test for the thermal effect of the hood vents.

Run the vehicle up to steady state operating temperature w/ the vents blocked, such as w/ duct tape. Then remove the tape, continue operation and observe the thermal effect.


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post #49114 of 51629 Old 05-29-2018, 06:49 PM
Benthal8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HighLonesome View Post
Hood vents...what I've noticed over the years is they do not lower engine temps...well maybe a degree or two. What they do do is allow heat to escape when the efan is not running, lowering the baking temperature for your plastic underhood parts. And they seem lower the incab temps a little, not positive tho.
I was talking to a ‘vette owner the other day, showing him my niner engine bay, and he said that he takes the back weatherstripping off, that seals back of hood, to allow more airflow. I’d be thinking electricals back there might be more inclined to short out, but what do you guys think?
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post #49115 of 51629 Old 05-29-2018, 07:34 PM
PolkaPower
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I know the hood vents work well because I could see the heat waves escaping on my old 5 9 in the Las Vegas heat.
From what I've read, Chrysler placed them their on the 5.9 because that's the area with the most pressure under the hood. With the efan it should help the hot under hood air escape nicely.

I've removed the weather stripping with no problems. It might affect your defrost since the ac will be sucking air from under the hood. I never noticed any problems though.

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post #49116 of 51629 Old 05-29-2018, 07:36 PM
kg6mov
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The electrics are pretty well protected by the cowl, I wouldn’t worry too much about pulling that weatherstripping.


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1984 F250, 460 BB, T19, work truck/future tow pig
1987 Mercedes 300D Turbo, the diesel daily, 30mpg in style

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post #49117 of 51629 Old 05-29-2018, 09:06 PM
Benthal8
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The electrics are pretty well protected by the cowl, I wouldn’t worry too much about pulling that weatherstripping.
I’ll try it, thanks
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post #49118 of 51629 Old 05-30-2018, 05:43 AM
kali_jeep
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drove mine from the west cost to the midwest, 2000+ miles, jeep ran like a champ!!!
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post #49119 of 51629 Old 05-30-2018, 06:10 AM
stubburnjdh
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Iím putting my dash back together in my 95 limited.
Though if you decide to take your dash apart on a hot day outside with your windows down make sure you put them back up before disconnecting everything. Especially if itís calling for rain.
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post #49120 of 51629 Old 05-30-2018, 06:46 AM
wingless
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Though if you decide to take your dash apart on a hot day outside with your windows down make sure you put them back up before disconnecting everything. Especially if itís calling for rain.
That should have been included in the FSM.

When I took my dash apart I found the windows up or down were superfluous because the front doors were open.


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post #49121 of 51629 Old 05-30-2018, 09:07 AM
HighLonesome
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The weatherstripping keeps engine bay air out of the cab...lol.


All I was saying was hood vents keep the engine bay and possibly the cab cooler, but don't expect your engine temps to be affected that much. At least that's my experience.
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post #49122 of 51629 Old 05-30-2018, 10:43 AM
wingless
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It would be easy enough to conduct a test for the thermal effect of the hood vents.

Run the vehicle up to steady state operating temperature w/ the vents blocked, such as w/ duct tape. Then remove the tape, continue operation and observe the thermal effect.
The "easy" way to determine if / what practical effect is attained by adding these heat extractor openings is to mount a thermocouple probe someplace important. My suggestion would be to have one contacting the aluminum throttle body. I would have a second monitoring the external ambient temperature. Additional probes could be placed as-desired, such as an internal engine compartment ambient temperature.

With the openings sealed operate the engine until steady state temperature is reached, record the temperatures. Remove the blocks and regain steady state temperatures, then record.

The vents should drop the temperatures.


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post #49123 of 51629 Old 05-30-2018, 08:17 PM
Buick350X
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big a.... hood scoop as far forward as you can on the hood so it grab major air. Flow right over the front of the engine where it counts.

1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee Orvis 4.0L Up-Country + BB - JeepOrvis.Club JeepZJ.Club C4rvette.com
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post #49124 of 51629 Old 05-31-2018, 01:36 PM
Bossman302
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From all the reading I have done about vents to aid the engine temps and performance is to locate them back by the back of the hood or cowl. They said the way the air flows over the hood and hits the windshield creates a natural air flow (- pressure ) gathering the heat from the air flowing thru the Grill and from underneath. Kind of make sense. This was years ago that I researched this.
They also stated that having the vents back there eliminates / reduces the water intake to the engine compartment from rain. The vette owner had the same idea by removing the weather stripping from the back of the hood.
There is a big difference from installing a big hood scoop on the front of the hood meant for racing as to a daily driver subject to weather and off road. Now if it's just for looks then any spot is a great spot for hood vents or a scoop.
Just my 2 cents on this topic.
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post #49125 of 51629 Old 05-31-2018, 03:50 PM
caroedell
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5.5" Lift

The front lift on my 1997 ZJ has had its fourth evolution. First lift was from Stock to 1.75" lift (urethane spacers). Second lift was to 4 .5" : 1.00" spacer plus 3.5" rough country coils (1.75" spacer losing the .75" rubber isolator).Third lift was increased to 5.25": 3.5" rough country coils plus 1.75" spacers (new isolator installed). It always rode very rough with this setup so I have upped the lift a bit. The fourth lift is 5.5": Rusty's Off-road 5.5" lift coils with stock rubber isolators. Strange thing is that even though only a .25" lift increase, I now have death wobble. Guess I will have to adjust track bar and the toe angle.
I have not increased the rear height yet to match the front. I am considering cutting a coil loop off of the removed 3.5" front coils and going from there.
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