Way to temporarily power a door? - Page 2 - JeepForum.com
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post #16 of 34 Old 05-16-2021, 07:03 AM
95-ZJ
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Originally Posted by sterculius View Post
Not saying this is the best way, but I took the door panel off and found the plug for the window motor. I put a strand of wire in each hole of the plug, then got my jumper cables and hooked them to the battery. Then I carefully touched the jumper cables to the wires and zziipppp, up went my window. Redneck engineering. 🙂
STERCULIUS

Thanks for that RNE suggestion. GOOD advice.

QUESTION: I am not a pro level mechanic or electrical pro either, so, ill ask the question....If I do as your suggesting, do you know, if running 12v current direct without going thru the voltage regulator, will this potentially do any damage my window motor or not? It shouldnt right, I mean, the window motor is 12v so it should just function if powered directly by a 12v power source (12v car battery jump wired), correct?

Also, it been a while since I looked under the door panel but if I remember right, the reason I didnt do as you are suggesting was that I couldnt get to the plug while window was down?

Another reason was I didnt have a wiring schematic at that time when I was trying to trace broken wires in the door to inner fender pigtail. I do have a wiring diagram now. I will get out there again and investigate further.


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post #17 of 34 Old 05-16-2021, 07:08 AM
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Originally Posted by GOLDWING View Post
I recommend buying a Power Probe 4 for anyone who works on these ZJs. You will be able to put battery voltage and ground to any circuit on the vehicle.

This unit will also troubleshoot injectors, sensors, motors and many other systems on your ZJ. It may even keep you from replacing parts that do not require replacement.
GOLDWING.
I'll be checking into that PP4. Thanks for the suggestion and for taking time to respond.

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post #18 of 34 Old 05-16-2021, 07:18 AM
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Originally Posted by BorderWalker View Post
Hey guys.

So as some know I recently swapped the Driver's door on my Jeep so as to not have to deal with a broken hinge. However, I forgot to swap Lock Cylinder's in the process. I see the Lock Cylinder inside the old door I removed and see how I need to remove it, but the window glass on it is down and creates a lovely obstacle with which to make removal difficult.

Is there a way I can somehow use say like, a drill battery to power my door just enough to raise the window? like is there a wire I can tap into or something or a pin on the door wire harness I can power? I just need to get the window to roll up so I can get the lock cylinder, then it's going to a scrap yard.

I really don't want to have to remove and reattch my old door just to get a lock cylinder x.x

Thanks guys,
I'd remove the motor, locks, along with switches wiring. etc and push the window up.

And store the removed stuff against a rainy day.

Smarter people than me, flog the removed stuff on eBay.
I've still got a stash of stuff I took off a '39 Xephyr many years ago (

Last edited by Delta0; 05-16-2021 at 08:39 AM.
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post #19 of 34 Old 05-16-2021, 02:11 PM
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Originally Posted by 95-ZJ View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by sterculius View Post
Not saying this is the best way, but I took the door panel off and found the plug for the window motor. I put a strand of wire in each hole of the plug, then got my jumper cables and hooked them to the battery. Then I carefully touched the jumper cables to the wires and zziipppp, up went my window. Redneck engineering. 🙂
STERCULIUS

Thanks for that RNE suggestion. GOOD advice.

QUESTION: I am not a pro level mechanic or electrical pro either, so, ill ask the question....If I do as your suggesting, do you know, if running 12v current direct without going thru the voltage regulator, will this potentially do any damage my window motor or not? It shouldnt right, I mean, the window motor is 12v so it should just function if powered directly by a 12v power source (12v car battery jump wired), correct?

Also, it been a while since I looked under the door panel but if I remember right, the reason I didnt do as you are suggesting was that I couldnt get to the plug while window was down?

Another reason was I didnt have a wiring schematic at that time when I was trying to trace broken wires in the door to inner fender pigtail. I do have a wiring diagram now. I will get out there again and investigate further.


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Here what I recall - my issue was that I rolled down the window and then it wouldn’t come back up. The switch had been acting up for a couple of days prior - like I’d have to fiddle with it a couple of times before the window would move. But on this day, no amount of fiddling would get the window back up.

I knew I was going to have to park my ZJ outside the next couple of days, so I really needed the window up. I took apart the door and did as I said. It worked great. I then bought a new switch off eBay and installed it a few days later when it arrived. That was over 18 months ago, and the window has worked ever since with no ill effects from the motor.
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post #20 of 34 Old 05-16-2021, 02:25 PM
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Just to add...I considered it like you said above -“it’s a 12v motor, it needs 12v power, the switch is the problem, what if I just ran power directly?”....

No ill effects and it solved my immediate problem to get the window up so I could park outside until the née switch came.
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post #21 of 34 Old 05-16-2021, 03:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sterculius View Post
Just to add...I considered it like you said above -“it’s a 12v motor, it needs 12v power, the switch is the problem, what if I just ran power directly?”....

No ill effects and it solved my immediate problem to get the window up so I could park outside until the née switch came.
Thanks for the response and the follow up addl. Info.

I had been holding off doing this method but now after your confirmation of yours going on 18 months still working.

I'll give it a go.

I will have to do this for every window but it beats the tarp and a storm getting water inside.

CHEERS

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post #22 of 34 Old 05-16-2021, 08:53 PM
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Way to temporarily power a door?

I've powered the windows and I was a little thrown because the wiring diagram doesn't show a connector before the window motor, but look for the 2-wire connector shown in the first pic. this goes from the Drivers Door Module to the window motor. The wires to the motor were a different color than the schematic, but that's the connector with the white and light blue wires. (I forget which colors went to the motor but one set of wires was different) In any case it's the lower connector with what looks like a green wire in the pic.
The 2 wires are just +/-, it's not grounded. so just try one way and see if it goes up or down, then reverse if needed.
I used a Power probe as well, but if you use a battery, those pins are pretty close together. You need 12VDC and it's got to have enough current (amps) to move the motor.
Don't try to power the windows from the wires on the DDM (multi-wire module), that won't work.
Attached Thumbnails
Window motor connector.jpg   IMG_7245.jpg  
Attached Files
File Type: pdf FSM 8W-60 Power Window.pdf (183.0 KB, 8 views)
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post #23 of 34 Old 05-16-2021, 11:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Benthal8 View Post
I've powered the windows and I was a little thrown because the wiring diagram doesn't show a connector before the window motor, but look for the 2-wire connector shown in the first pic. this goes form the Drivers Door Module to the window motor. The wires to the motor were a different color than the schematic, but that's the connector with the white and light blue wires. (I forget which colors went to the motor but one set of wires was different) In any case it's the lower connector with what looks like green in the pic.
The 2 wires are just +/-, it's not grounded. so just try one way and see if it goes up or down, then reverse if needed.
I used a Power probe as well, but if you use a battery, those pins are pretty close together. You need 12VDC and it's got to have enough current (amps) to move the motor.
Don't try to power the windows from the wires on the DDM (multi-wire module), that won't work.
Thanks for the addl. info and the additonal pictures. Btw, the PDF is unusable as the link shows that the file is damaged, at least for me, I dont know if any others can access it? Let me know?.

So, regarding my door window and lock issue. I'll try to get some pictures tomorrow and include them.

On this 95 ZJ laredo, today, I did get the drivers door apart again and got into the wiring further. I previouly replaced the plug-in jumper harness that goes between the door and body/front inner fender awhile back because the previous owner had somehow ripped apart the entire pigtail and boot and almost the entire set of inner wires were unrepairable, and hence, the reason for the long search to find a replacement.

I also today, found 3 wires that are broken inside the door that were tucked away so visually I had not seen this issue.

I believe one to be a speaker wire, as its thicker and black and the other two, one of which is a thinner purple with a yellow stripe and the other is a thinner gauge black wire.

Upon furter inspection, each wire shows that they each were cut or severed in some way by the previous owner. When I aquired the Jeep, the evidence shows that the other former owners did not keep up with or take care of wiring problems professionally, but did their best with what they knew or didn't know so, that being said, this Grand, has some wiring gremlins lurking that I'll attempt to address, as time and funds allow. I hope my repairs will bear better results, but no pro either. We shall see.

Good luck and Gods speed with your door wiring. As I get into it, ill try to update this thread.

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post #24 of 34 Old 05-16-2021, 11:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GOLDWING View Post
I recommend buying a Power Probe 4 for anyone who works on these ZJs. You will be able to put battery voltage and ground to any circuit on the vehicle.

This unit will also troubleshoot injectors, sensors, motors and many other systems on your ZJ. It may even keep you from replacing parts that do not require replacement.
GW

I checked into the POWER PROBE 4.

Great testing and diagnostic tool. I concur.

You didnt mention pricies soaring upwards of $300 depending on supplier, That is a cost I cant afford at the moment. As a already broken down, divorced old guy with little extra money, especially, after this crazy, stay home, do nothing year, Its going to have to remain cheap probes, multi meters, head scratching and thinkin caps

Thanks again however, for the suggestion, GW

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post #25 of 34 Old 05-17-2021, 09:25 AM
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Originally Posted by 95-ZJ View Post
GW

I checked into the POWER PROBE 4. Great testing and diagnostic tool. I concur. You didnt mention $300 however, and that is a cost I cant afford as a already broken down, divorced old guy with little extra money, especially, after this crazy, stay home do nothing year with so many uncertainties.

This JGC is not a extra toy for me. Actually it will be my transportation. I just saved for 6 months for this old Jeep Grand. And, just got most parts to get her on the road.

Anyway, if your referring to another PP4 and that is a $100 bucks, id make the stretch but 3x that amount is a tough pill right now. Thanks again however, for the suggestion,

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WOW! Mine was under $200 if memory serves.

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post #26 of 34 Old 05-17-2021, 01:44 PM
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Originally Posted by 95-ZJ View Post
Btw, the PDF is unusable as the link shows that the file is damaged, at least for me, I dont know if any others can access it? Let me know?.
The PDF was just 2 pages from the FSM that show the wiring diagram for the window circuit.
It does open for me, on my laptop it downloads when I click on it and on my phone it opens.
I'd be curious to know if others can't open it as well.
I'm thinking you have an FSM? I think you would need one for all the work you're doing.
Also I presumed that your door on the '95 looked the same as my '98.
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post #27 of 34 Old 05-18-2021, 12:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Benthal8 View Post
The PDF was just 2 pages from the FSM that show the wiring diagram for the window circuit.

It does open for me, on my laptop it downloads when I click on it and on my phone it opens.

I'd be curious to know if others can't open it as well.

I'm thinking you have an FSM? I think you would need one for all the work you're doing.

Also I presumed that your door on the '95 looked the same as my '98.
I have a few manuals, Chilton and Haynes, but they dont have the graphic. I just finally found a printed FSM coming Thursday actually. My old computer has been needing a new hard drive and decided to kick the bucket recently. So, just using my tablet which is fine, but I cant play DVDs or CDs. My FSM is a PDF format manual and I cant convert it to a thumb drive PDF because my computer stopped "puting"

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post #28 of 34 Old 05-18-2021, 08:50 AM
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Originally Posted by 95-ZJ View Post
GW

I checked into the POWER PROBE 4.

Great testing and diagnostic tool. I concur.

You didnt mention pricies soaring upwards of $300 depending on supplier, That is a cost I cant afford at the moment. As a already broken down, divorced old guy with little extra money, especially, after this crazy, stay home, do nothing year, Its going to have to remain cheap probes, multi meters, head scratching and thinkin caps

Thanks again however, for the suggestion, GW

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https://www.ebay.com/itm/33265511383...xoC6tEQAvD_BwE
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post #29 of 34 Old 05-18-2021, 01:21 PM
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Thank you for the update and a source for a better price.
Make it a great day GW

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post #30 of 34 Old 05-18-2021, 01:43 PM
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How about this "knockoff". I know the addage ""speed costs money, how fast do you want to go" analogy but Goldwing, Is there a major difference other than price. Trying to compare and will be watching a south main auto tutorial later on the PP4 but since you seem to know your unit and have used it. Would a Amazon's best seller like this for 80 bucks do most of what the PRO level PP4 do?


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071LHLSBB...ing=UTF8&psc=1

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