Vibration over 55mph, driveshaft test? -
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 7 Old 07-06-2015, 11:21 AM Thread Starter
Registered User
1995 ZJ 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Janesville
Posts: 207
Vibration over 55mph, driveshaft test?

I just did a lot of work, replaced the transmission and a lot of other things, but now I have a heavy vibration over 55 mph to about 70. Tires did not change and the vibration is rather fast, so I am thinking its a drive shaft. Engine RPM does not seem to matter. I read about taking one off, one at a time, to test it, but there where also warnings about it may damage the transfer case. I have a NP242, and no one mentions that one, just the 249 or 231. It's a '95, can I remove the front drive shaft to see if its the issue or will I damage it? I didn't mark it when I took it off and did not think about it so I may be 180 degrees off on one of the mounts, that may be the issue. Thanks! - Jeremy

kb9mfd is offline  
Sponsored Links
post #2 of 7 Old 07-06-2015, 11:33 AM
Registered User
PolkaPower's Avatar
1998 ZJ 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: The Abyss
Posts: 22,810
Yes take the shaft off it wont bother the 242.
PolkaPower is offline  
post #3 of 7 Old 07-06-2015, 12:24 PM
Registered User
1998 ZJ 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: California
Posts: 2,450
On my Bimmers, a vibration that's felt in the steering wheel, in particular, at 55mph, is often attributable to a worn tie-rod end. I'm not sure that it's the same with ZJ's, but it might be worth a look-see. Good luck.
MrRoundel is offline  
post #4 of 7 Old 07-06-2015, 12:29 PM
Registered User
1997 ZJ 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 90
Could it be just a worn bushing on a control arm or something?

Tie rod sure.

Let us know what you find.
howdyratz is offline  
post #5 of 7 Old 07-06-2015, 01:52 PM
Registered User
1994 ZJ 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: pahrump
Posts: 61
Yes kb I agree 100 pct, The shaft balance is very sensitive to the bolting on the uni joint yokes.

I agree that when removing them, they need to be installed back in the exact same relative position; otherwise the shaft will vibrate and need to be rebalanced. usually I make a chalk mark on the shaft and uni joints so it goes back correctly.

Since you did not mark the shafts as above, then I also agree you should try reinstalling the front and rear uni joints i180 deg opposite, in all permutations until you get zero vibe.

(I agree that the tie rod and control arm bushing might cause this but more likely you will hear "clunks" rather than vibrations. Assuming these were not touched during his repair, it seems an unlikely source of vibe.)
pumaman is offline  
post #6 of 7 Old 07-07-2015, 07:36 AM Thread Starter
Registered User
1995 ZJ 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Janesville
Posts: 207
Well, found the issue. Just not the way I would of liked to. Long story short, horrible day, I was driving it because it was going to rain and I didn't want to drive my bike in the rain, The vibration was getting worse and then about 4 miles from my house something gave, I pulled over and the front driveshaft looked ok, rear at a glance looked ok. It felt like a tire came off but those looked ok. After about the third try I was going to just put it in first and drive slow but then something gave again and I heard dragging. Well, it was the rear drive shaft, it broke off the differential. Put it in part time and drove home on the front but there was no vibration at all. I ended up taking my bike in the rain and this morning I took a look. Then I realized what I did, both straps where still there but only one cap. When I put it in I needed to release the park brake so I could rotate it, but I decided to just do the front first. I totally forgot to rotate and tighten the other back strap. Oh well, at least there seems to be no damage other than a new U-Joint.
kb9mfd is offline  
post #7 of 7 Old 07-07-2015, 06:31 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
1995 ZJ 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Janesville
Posts: 207
Yep, that was it. New U-joint and put it back and it drives fine now. I also realized I forgot the TV cable spring on the transmission, now it shifts better too. After thinking about it I have a revised theory, there is enough room I did not need to turn it, I think I didn't get one of the u-joint caps properly in place before tightening it down, it caused it to throw the cap eventually and the u-joint popped out. One cap was secure and the other was missing, but the bracket was still there but loose.
kb9mfd is offline  

driveshaft , vibration , vibration drive shaft

Quick Reply

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid e-mail address for yourself.

Email Address:


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome