Transmission temp gauge install w/pics - JeepForum.com
 1Likes
  • 1 Post By Mr. Puddles
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 15 Old 07-26-2021, 03:38 PM Thread Starter
HighLonesome
Web Wheeler
 
HighLonesome's Avatar
1995 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: New Mexico
Posts: 8,621
Transmission temp gauge install w/pics

Overview

You can do the entire install for $100 or so. I had the gauge and panel in the two links below already installed. The gauge requires a ground, switched 12v, and a single wire to the sender. 16-18 ga wire is plenty. I used the cigar lighter for 12v and ran the sender wire through the firewall at the hood release grommet. Under dash grounds are easy to find. Doing the wiring is time consuming. Wire it up as you please, 'nuff said about that. You can save $ by getting a cheaper panel.

Panel

https://www.autometer.com/2-1-hole-g...B&gclsrc=aw.ds

Gauge and Sender

https://www.autometer.com/2-trans-te...port-comp.html


Tee/Sender Assembly

A 1/8" to 1/4" NPT adapter is needed. The gauge I linked to above comes with an AutoMeter 2258 sender, which is 1/8" NPT. You will also need the brass tee/fittings.

Brass Tee/Fittings
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Adapter
https://www.lowes.com/pd/B-K-1-4-in-...ing/1000505519

The tee and fittings are brass. The fittings measure 3/8" ID, so no restrictions. The brass tee must be grounded. I read you could solder copper to brass and it was no lie. The solder doesn't flow on the brass like it does with copper, it just kind of sticks to it. I used a propane torch and I was happy with the results. I did the soldering twice because I didn't trust it, since the solder didn't flow like I am used to. I assure you, that ground lug in the pic is not coming off. Then just screw in the fittings, adapter and the sender last, using sealing tape. You'll need 9/16" and 12mm wrenches.

Installing the Tee/Sender
I severed the pressure line, which is the front-most connection on the 46RH, which should be closer to the fluid in the pan for temp. It's nice to have small corks to plug the hose and fittings advantageously. I used a bullet connector for the ground and a small ring for the sender. The sender nuts are 1/2". Added some nice stainless fuel injector clamps. Last, nylon ties for wire tension relief and to keep it all together.

No it ain't pretty.

Attached Thumbnails
meter.jpg   size.jpg   ground.jpg   tee1.jpg   tee2.jpg  

teefinal.jpg   done.jpg  
HighLonesome is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 15 Old 07-26-2021, 04:56 PM
PolkaPower
Registered User
 
PolkaPower's Avatar
1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: The Abyss
Posts: 23,688
Transmission temp gauge install w/pics

Looks great. I used those add a fuse and ran power from the fuse panel and the Belmont guage mount from Craven Speed.
img_20180910_163445.jpg

https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.cra...p/the-belmont/
I used a gloshift guage and temp T but I removed the check valve and screwed it into the hard-line instead of cutting and flaring.
img_20180825_170606-copy.jpg

https://www.glowshiftdirect.com/3-8-...tting-adapter/
img_20200211_144839.jpg

I mounted the pod on the pillar and ran the wires behind it and under the top of the dash.
I wanted it up high because I have a bad habit of ignoring stuff that's not in my face lol.
img_20180621_180338.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
PolkaPower is offline  
post #3 of 15 Old 07-26-2021, 08:00 PM
Mr. Puddles
Registered User
1996 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Little Elm
Posts: 966
Garage
@PolkaPower what do you think of that gauge? Ive got the same one that I was going to install in the hot line out of the trans before the trans shop decided to fab up new lines with disconnects. They moved it to one of the test ports which Im not real happy about. Think Ill go to the aux cooler input when I get to that project.

Follow the build!

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


2002 Dakota aka Winnie aka Mad Max
1996 Grand Cherokee aka Puddles aka Pikey Life
Quote:
Originally Posted by kg6mov View Post
The 4.0 is dumb old tractor motor, its too stupid to know its supposed to die.
Mr. Puddles is offline  
 
post #4 of 15 Old 07-26-2021, 08:07 PM
yjsaabman
Registered User
1930 CJ2 
 
Join Date: Mar 2021
Location: Elizabethtown
Posts: 250
I had a single pod like that at the base of the A-pillar with an oil pressure gauge on my 97 Golf. Was a pretty clean install in the end. I used one of these: "AutoMeter 2204 AutoMeter Gauge Mounting Cups | Summit Racing" https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...BoC4zcQAvD_BwE

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
yjsaabman is offline  
post #5 of 15 Old 07-27-2021, 12:15 AM
PolkaPower
Registered User
 
PolkaPower's Avatar
1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: The Abyss
Posts: 23,688
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Puddles View Post
@PolkaPower what do you think of that gauge? Ive got the same one that I was going to install in the hot line out of the trans before the trans shop decided to fab up new lines with disconnects. They moved it to one of the test ports which Im not real happy about. Think Ill go to the aux cooler input when I get to that project.

It's a good looking guage and has several different colors. So far it's worked well.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
PolkaPower is offline  
post #6 of 15 Old 07-27-2021, 05:22 AM
jeepjeepster
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 4,001
Whos going to start the 'best place for the probe' debate?

I recently bought a B&M pan with a bung for a probe. May install it someday.

1994 ZJ-I6 w/270,000 mi
1998 ZJ 5.9 w/66,000 mi Slate Black
2004 KJ w/108,000 mi
jeepjeepster is offline  
post #7 of 15 Old 07-27-2021, 07:34 AM
Mr. Puddles
Registered User
1996 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Little Elm
Posts: 966
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepjeepster View Post
Whos going to start the 'best place for the probe' debate?

I recently bought a B&M pan with a bung for a probe. May install it someday.

IMO its a matter of preference. Some want to know the temp of the fluid going into the converter and some want to know the temp coming out. Both options have valid arguments. Honestly I think both would be the best option but who has room for all that. Im of the mindset that the fluid out of the converter is at max temp. Thats where most of the damage happens so if I know when Im reaching a danger zone i can act to lower the temps.
Timo_90xj likes this.

Follow the build!

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


2002 Dakota aka Winnie aka Mad Max
1996 Grand Cherokee aka Puddles aka Pikey Life
Quote:
Originally Posted by kg6mov View Post
The 4.0 is dumb old tractor motor, its too stupid to know its supposed to die.
Mr. Puddles is offline  
post #8 of 15 Old 07-27-2021, 08:40 AM
jeepjeepster
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 4,001
Theres a thread somewhere on the XJ section. Dude added one at all 3 locations, cant remember the outcome, but that was cool. He added a switch that would let him switch between the probes with 1 gauge.

Ive only done the pan on 1 of my Jeeps. I've read thats the argument for adding one to the line going to the coolers, but I wonder how long the fluid must be 'too hot' for the fluid to break down?

What temps do you see when towing or going up long steep hills?

1994 ZJ-I6 w/270,000 mi
1998 ZJ 5.9 w/66,000 mi Slate Black
2004 KJ w/108,000 mi
jeepjeepster is offline  
post #9 of 15 Old 07-27-2021, 10:23 AM Thread Starter
HighLonesome
Web Wheeler
 
HighLonesome's Avatar
1995 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: New Mexico
Posts: 8,621
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepjeepster View Post

What temps do you see when towing or going up long steep hills?

Sender on the pressure line, I don't tow and no AC...

~195* or a 90+* day in 2wd. But that was on the freeway pulling long grades with the new setup...aluminum trans pan and two coolers. Rad cooler disconnected and plugged.
~185* offroad in 2wd, 4lo will bring the temps down some. Just cruisin fireroads on a hot day, 165* or less. In the winter, I'm worrying about the trans coming up to temp. Haven't tried lugging any sand or mud yet.

With my old setup, Hayden cooler replacing the stock aux cooler and the rad cooler connected, sender in the pan, I lugged through about 5 miles of mud and the gauge was way over 210*approaching 250*. I couldn't stop or I would have been stuck really bad. Another time in sand, you could actually watch the needle move on the gauge, heading to the max.

Still gathering data and gaugehawking.

The new setup....

Heat Sink Cooler
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/der-13252

Hayden Cooler
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Pan (price has gone up!)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/29054584911...gAAMXQQtNR2KVF
HighLonesome is offline  
post #10 of 15 Old 07-27-2021, 11:20 AM
jeepjeepster
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 4,001
I started to say Im surprised youre seeing 195F with the new setup, then I remembered where the probe is... I wouldn't worry about seeing close to 250F for the short amount of time its at 250F. More so if you service it regularly.

I had a search saved on ebay and found a brand new B&M pan for $100 shipped not long ago... Pretty happy about that.

1994 ZJ-I6 w/270,000 mi
1998 ZJ 5.9 w/66,000 mi Slate Black
2004 KJ w/108,000 mi
jeepjeepster is offline  
post #11 of 15 Old 07-27-2021, 12:40 PM
PolkaPower
Registered User
 
PolkaPower's Avatar
1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: The Abyss
Posts: 23,688
I remember reading that atf4 starts to shear at 300*.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
PolkaPower is offline  
post #12 of 15 Old 07-27-2021, 03:00 PM
Timo_90xj
Web Wheeler
 
Timo_90xj's Avatar
1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Helsinki, Finland - on the European side of the Atlantic
Posts: 11,113
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepjeepster View Post
Theres a thread somewhere on the XJ section. Dude added one at all 3 locations, cant remember the outcome, but that was cool. He added a switch that would let him switch between the probes with 1 gauge.
I've been thinking of installing a second temp sensor on the cooler supply line to see the max. temps coming out from the converter. Toggle switch for the two, so it's easy to swap between pan and cooler supply line sensors.

Quote:
but I wonder how long the fluid must be 'too hot' for the fluid to break down?

What temps do you see when towing or going up long steep hills?
As Polka mentioned I remember seeing that most current- day ATFs fail at temps above 290-300F, but they start to loose their properties earlier than that. That's for short term, long-term fluid pan temps shouldn't exceed 170-180F.

When installed the temp sensor to my fluid pan, I was seeing temps of around 210-230F very often - even freezing temps in slow traffic, when towing or wheeling. That was with the OEM cooling setup on a '98.

After adding the inline t'stat between supply and return lines + added an auxiliary cooler, fluid pan temps almost never exceed 185F and usually stay around 160-175.
I towed a ZJ on trailer last summer, total tow weight was ~6500lbs in warm(ish) weather. Pan temp never went past 190-195F, and I was driving with OD active.

1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX daily driver, 1.75" BB, 32" KM2s, HPD30 Eaton e-locker/D44a stock LSD, 4.56 gears, custom- fabbed tube bumpers and tube fenders,...


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.



1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
Timo_90xj is offline  
post #13 of 15 Old 07-27-2021, 04:40 PM
PolkaPower
Registered User
 
PolkaPower's Avatar
1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: The Abyss
Posts: 23,688
If you had fluid pan temps at 300* internals and torque converter temps would be way hotter than that and would be boiling out of the vent tube.

My hot line temps sit around 180* with normal driving and can fluctuate to 215-220* off road in loose sand or prolonged steep grades. Putting it in 4lo drastically reduces the temperature and keeps it stable though.
Not sure what the pan temps are.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
PolkaPower is offline  
post #14 of 15 Old 07-27-2021, 08:15 PM
Mr. Puddles
Registered User
1996 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Little Elm
Posts: 966
Garage
Took this from an RV forum. Info is from a 4L80

> TEMP vs* MILES OF LIFETIME

> > 175? = 100,000
> > 195? = 50,000
> > 220? = 20,000
> > 240? = 10,000 Varnish Starts to Form
> > 260? = 5,000 Seals start to harden
> > 295? = 1,500 Plates start to slip
> > 315? = Seals and Clutches Burn up and Carbon Forms.



Then there is this

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/th...oo-hot.157523/


And this

https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/08...smission-tips/

Pretty much the universal call is 220 is really the highest you want to go. Beyond that you also start damaging components in the Trans.


Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk

Follow the build!

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


2002 Dakota aka Winnie aka Mad Max
1996 Grand Cherokee aka Puddles aka Pikey Life
Quote:
Originally Posted by kg6mov View Post
The 4.0 is dumb old tractor motor, its too stupid to know its supposed to die.
Mr. Puddles is offline  
post #15 of 15 Old 07-27-2021, 10:15 PM
PolkaPower
Registered User
 
PolkaPower's Avatar
1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: The Abyss
Posts: 23,688
Transmission temp gauge install w/pics

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Puddles View Post
Took this from an RV forum. Info is from a 4L80

> TEMP vs* MILES OF LIFETIME

> > 175? = 100,000
> > 195? = 50,000
> > 220? = 20,000
> > 240? = 10,000 Varnish Starts to Form
> > 260? = 5,000 Seals start to harden
> > 295? = 1,500 Plates start to slip
> > 315? = Seals and Clutches Burn up and Carbon Forms.



Then there is this

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/th...oo-hot.157523/


And this

https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/08...smission-tips/

Pretty much the universal call is 220 is really the highest you want to go. Beyond that you also start damaging components in the Trans.


Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk

That's stating the actual internal transmission temps. I can only measure how how the atf gets which will always read higher than actual internal temp. That's why I like to take my measurement from after the torque converter. To tell if I'm cooking the atf which will always be much higher than internal.
Atf fluid is totally fine at 220+. At 250+ sustained I'd probably change the fluid. Short spikes are ok.
I believe the transmission will lock out overdrive if it gets 260 internal and unlock at around 215. I had that happen off road before when it puked the atf out of the breather because it overheated. When that happens the od light comes on to let you know and you can't turn it off until it cools. I didn't know this because I already had my od turned off so it boiled out.
A nice deep pan and big arsed cooler work great together.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
PolkaPower is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the JeepForum.com forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid e-mail address for yourself.



Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome