Tie rod hitting sway bar link - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 23 Old 02-22-2020, 09:49 AM Thread Starter
nick613
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Tie rod hitting sway bar link

Hey all, working on the finishing touches of a 4.5" lift on my 98 ZJ. Just finished adjusting the front track bar, doing an eyeballed allignment and installing sway bar end link quick disconnects. At full droop the tie rod is completely stopped by the end link. At ride height it will pass but rubs pretty bad.

I have adjustable CAs pinion angle and caster seem about right...

Please help this is driving me nuts!

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post #2 of 23 Old 02-22-2020, 12:14 PM
Timo_90xj
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What is your caster angle? I'm suspecting too much pinion angle compensation, which causes your caster angle to be set closer to zero and certain axle component being tilted too far "out".
Don't set your pinion angle too high in the list of priorities, make sure you have enough caster (preferably ~6) and no interference with steering/ suspension components.

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1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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post #3 of 23 Old 02-22-2020, 12:24 PM Thread Starter
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I dont have an angle finder right now so I've been eyeballing. Actually just finished readjusting everything and the caster looks close to stock and the pinion angle doesnt look great but maybe acceptable? Things have improved. Looks like pretty well no rubbing at ride height but wouldnt take much droop to start rubbing. Just dont want any major damage from this on trails...

The jeep will be going for a pro alignment after some test driving. Either going to a local shop if they're willing to take it on, they're really honest so if they dont have the knowledge they just wont do it or I'll take it to a specialty shop. This is just to get things close

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post #4 of 23 Old 02-22-2020, 05:54 PM
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For my 5.5 long arm I had to take the tie rod to a tractor shop that had a huge press to put a 4-5 degree bend in it to clear. Just temporary until I swapped axles. Otherwise you can cut off the swaybar brackets and buy extended brackets from rough country to weld on for clearance.

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post #5 of 23 Old 02-22-2020, 08:05 PM Thread Starter
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Welding on new brackets might not be a bad idea! I just took it for its first drive with the lift and all seemed fine with the steering at low speed on flat ground. Still some tweaking left to do for sure

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post #6 of 23 Old 03-04-2020, 06:22 PM Thread Starter
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Anybody try making their own brackets? Seems super simple. Would they need to match the curve of the stock brackets? I can probably source some 3/8" steel for free and feel comfortable welding something that isn't super critical for safety. Being in Canada everything is way more expensive when you factor in exchange rate, shipping and customs...

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post #7 of 23 Old 03-04-2020, 10:30 PM
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I built my own of 3/8" (10mm) steel plate cut to desired shape to clear steering linkage and other stuff. Passenger swaybar endlink bracket is integrated to my raised trackbar mount.
Key thing is to get the width between the brackets correct - I did a stupid measuring error and ended up welding the brackets about 1.5" too wide. It makes getting the JKS quick-disco endlinks off a bit hard.





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1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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post #8 of 23 Old 03-05-2020, 04:42 PM Thread Starter
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Nice work. Do you think 1/4" would do it? Could maybe weld a stiffener onto it if needed. Finding lots of free 1/4" but no 3/8"

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post #9 of 23 Old 03-06-2020, 02:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nick613 View Post
Nice work. Do you think 1/4" would do it? Could maybe weld a stiffener onto it if needed. Finding lots of free 1/4" but no 3/8"

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A lot of companies make them. This was a quick Google search. I think artec and ruffstuff do too.

For the cost, it's not worth it to make your own.
https://www.cjcoffroad.com/Synergy-J...-p/8235-03.htm

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post #10 of 23 Old 03-06-2020, 03:31 AM
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Originally Posted by PolkaPower View Post
A lot of companies make them. This was a quick Google search. I think artec and ruffstuff do too.

For the cost, it's not worth it to make your own.
None of the pre-cut ones would've have worked for me without modifying; as for the price, yes it might not be worth fabbing them when you live in the USA.
I would've paid something like 30+$ for a couple of those shipped + import tax + sales tax = something like 90$ for two. The cost to fab my own was ~5$ for the 10mm scrap steel plate, and one 4.5" cutting disc (~1$)

1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX daily driver, 1.75" BB, 32" KM2s, HPD30 Eaton e-locker/D44a stock LSD, 4.56 gears, custom- fabbed tube bumpers and tube fenders,...


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1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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post #11 of 23 Old 03-06-2020, 04:32 AM Thread Starter
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Ya being in Canada Im looking at a lot more than $26 for 2 between shipping and taxes. It still wouldnt be prohibitably expensive but Im really trying to keep this a low budget build and I have a buddy with access to a lot of scrap steel just not much over 1/4.


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post #12 of 23 Old 03-06-2020, 08:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Timo_90xj View Post
None of the pre-cut ones would've have worked for me without modifying; as for the price, yes it might not be worth fabbing them when you live in the USA.
I would've paid something like 30+$ for a couple of those shipped + import tax + sales tax = something like 90$ for two. The cost to fab my own was ~5$ for the 10mm scrap steel plate, and one 4.5" cutting disc (~1$)
You are a special care though aren't you lol!

There's no place in Canada that's makes jeep parts?
You could cut off the original and use it as a template.
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post #13 of 23 Old 03-06-2020, 08:47 AM
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You are a special care though aren't you lol!

"I'm special! TIMMMYYYYY!!!!"
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1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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post #14 of 23 Old 03-06-2020, 08:55 AM
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I've bent the OEM brackets from wheeling without disconnecting. If you are going to go with 1/4" I'd add stiffeners / some sort of lateral reinforcement for sure.

-Tim
(2) '96 4.0s
#1-'10-'18
#2- HP30/Ford 8.8 - 4.56, OME HDs, 5100's, IRO Adj Arms/Track Bars
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post #15 of 23 Old 03-06-2020, 09:05 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PolkaPower View Post
You are a special care though aren't you lol!

There's no place in Canada that's makes jeep parts?
You could cut off the original and use it as a template.
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It'd be nice if I was wrong but it sure doesn't seem like it. Looked into some Canadian vendors when I bought my adjustable CAs and trackbars etc for my lift but the ones I could find were still more expensive than dealing with an American company and paying all the lovely extras on top of that... Figure they just bring parts in from the states and mark them up. Horrible selection aswell.

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