Test procedure for 42RE pressures? - Page 5 - JeepForum.com
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post #61 of 82 Old 10-12-2019, 10:39 AM
jrcromwell
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I would not make one out of PVC anything. The spring on the OD is under approx 830 pounds. PVC will be unpredictable under this type of use and is not designed to be used in any way under compressive load forces.

Stick with steel pipe and cut a window or use the tripod method both of which are inexpensive, quick/easy and most importantly safe.

If you like spending money then you can purchase one for 75-125 depending on where you purchase it. Personally I cannot pay that kind of money for a 25 dollar tool.

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post #62 of 82 Old 10-12-2019, 03:52 PM
Timo_90xj
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Yep, .250" wall steel tube is a good starting point, cut a hole to the side and it'll do it's job without issues.




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1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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post #63 of 82 Old 10-12-2019, 09:48 PM Thread Starter
JaimeZX
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In other news, I'm halfway through the Valve Body video now. (Last one I think?)

My wife says "why don't you just pay someone to do this?"
"I thought we discussed this and saving a grand is good."
"Yeah I know, but how much time is this going to take? And isn't it going to be cold in the garage by mid-November?"
"Yeah. Well. I figured I'd be chilly."
"Maybe we should hold off until we know where we're moving next year."

So. Pan is off and valve body is dripping out. lol I might pull the VB and at least inspect the valves for proper movement... then possibly put this project on hold for a bit while continuing to drive my father-in-law's 2013 Murano in the interim... *sigh* I have all kinds of stuff in multiple website Shopping Carts right now. lol

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post #64 of 82 Old 10-13-2019, 09:47 AM
paulsheer2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrcromwell View Post
I would not make one out of PVC anything.....
Naaah. LoL.

4.5 inch PVC works fine.

Used it ten times now.

And if you make it long you can put the shaft in and build from the OD up and then not need the alignment tool.


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post #65 of 82 Old 10-13-2019, 03:08 PM Thread Starter
JaimeZX
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So. In the interest of not missing something relatively easy and straightforward, I have pursued the removal of the VB. All has been smooth, except the NSS was siezed a bit, had to use my 18" iron pipe handle extension on my ratchet to break it loose. Also, I cannot figure out how to disconnect the shift lever-linkage. I loosened the 13mm bolt a bit (easiest access was a 12" extension on the ratchet) but I must be missing something because I still can't get it to pop off the little shaft that sticks up from the VB. Help?




(The spring is just loosely connected to the tranny cooler line so that it's up & out of the way)
(Weirdly, there was a small amount of old, brown tranny fluid inside the connector for the NSS.)

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post #66 of 82 Old 10-13-2019, 03:28 PM
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You need to remove both the throttle valve lever, and then the shift cable lever. You may need to rotate either one or both of the levers to gain access for the TV lever. It's also a good idea to use a large flathead screwdriver to pry open the gap on the shifter lever, it's often pretty tight and doesn't want to pop off even with the nut loosened and TV lever removed.
It can kinda be seen here, bad cellphone picture from a few years ago:



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1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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post #67 of 82 Old 10-13-2019, 04:37 PM Thread Starter
JaimeZX
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OK... so recycling the previous picture...



I have successfully popped off the shifter linkage (green); but the (yellow) linkage that goes aft is still connected, mainly because I'm having a hard time getting my hand up there and the tiny bit of plastic I can see is difficult to get a screwdriver on to pop it up....

I've been using a large screwdriver (twisting) to try and open up a gap (red line), with very limited progress between the case and (green linkage-lever.) Trying between green and yellow ones I'm having no progress at all. I don't THINK there's a screw holding the levers onto the shaft, but I'm suspicious there might be SOMETHING there...?

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post #68 of 82 Old 10-13-2019, 06:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JaimeZX View Post
In other news, I'm halfway through the Valve Body video now. (Last one I think?)

My wife says "why don't you just pay someone to do this?"
"I thought we discussed this and saving a grand is good."
"Yeah I know, but how much time is this going to take? And isn't it going to be cold in the garage by mid-November?"
"Yeah. Well. I figured I'd be chilly."
"Maybe we should hold off until we know where we're moving next year."

So. Pan is off and valve body is dripping out. lol I might pull the VB and at least inspect the valves for proper movement... then possibly put this project on hold for a bit while continuing to drive my father-in-law's 2013 Murano in the interim... *sigh* I have all kinds of stuff in multiple website Shopping Carts right now. lol
I will not second guess you. And certainly there is a huge personal satisfaction from beating a tough job. When I was younger I did some crazy stuff without proper equipment (like pulling the axle on my truck while parked on the street, propping the tires up so no one noticed it was on jack stands; dropping a GMC 6 cylinder cranshaft from under the truck, twice, or swapping an Audi transaxle using a kids swing set as a hoist), but it's good to figure 'what's my time worth', not just in dollar value but in lost time using the vehicle. Some jobs are fun, some are just painful, especially when you're on your back in a garage and have better things to do.

I am now 70, you can think of me as your future self.

My toys
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'47 CJ2-A

wife's toys
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87 MB 560SL roadster
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post #69 of 82 Old 10-13-2019, 08:08 PM Thread Starter
JaimeZX
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SWING SET HOIST IS GENIUS.

I'm partial to the intermediate COA of swapping in a newly rebuilt transmission myself, but still need to figure out how to disconnect the levers.

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post #70 of 82 Old 10-13-2019, 09:44 PM
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Start with popping off both the TV cable and shifter cable from their ball sockets.

Then rotate shifter lever and/ or TV lever so that you can first remove the TV lever (top one), then the shifter lever (bottom one) - there are two separate levers. I can't quite see it from the picture if you have the upper (TV) lever off already?

When removing levers, don't just pry up - you often need to first pry the gap going lengthwise in the middle of the lever itself wider, the pry up between case & lever to remove it from the shaft.

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1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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post #71 of 82 Old 10-13-2019, 10:05 PM Thread Starter
JaimeZX
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No, the TV lever isn't off yet, just hidden in the pic. OK - good extra info on widening gap first, thanks! So there's no C-clamp or something holding these things down, right? Just a friction fit...

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post #72 of 82 Old 10-14-2019, 12:27 PM Thread Starter
JaimeZX
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WELL. That got a lot easier after I figured out that the TV cable ALSO has a pinch bolt; annoyingly 11mm instead of 13mm like the shift lever pinch bolt. So THOSE are off and soaking in boiling soapy water.

EDIT: After determining the gear selector needs to be in manual/L, I have futzed with it some more. It feels like the park pawl is stuck farther back somewhere. Does it connect to something? It's not letting me pull the VB farther forward/out more than 6" or so.

EDIT 2: After watching the videos several times, I think it's just the bend in the pawl that's hanging me up. I will continue to futz with it.

EDIT 3: I have figured like 11 different ways to twist the VB but still can't get the pawl out of its shaft. Sure FEELS like something is blocking its removal. Also not helpful is the harness connector, which sticks up and blocks the VB rotation, annoyingly.

Sure WISH it were this easy:

EDIT 4: Meanwhile, 90 minutes in a white vinegar & dish soap solution in my little ultrasonic cleaner has the two levers looking almost new. I'll throw up a pic when I'm satisfied.

EDIT 5: Pic. Slight amount of surface rust after cleaning; will probably hit them with some WD-40.



In other news. No progress on VB removal. Could use another tip.

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post #73 of 82 Old 10-15-2019, 03:44 PM
Timo_90xj
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Put the transfer case in neutral, it will allow the transmission output and internal parts to rotate a little.
Valve body should pretty much just pull out, but at times the park rod end-thingy gets caught up in the park pawl and doesn't want to come out. Be patient, it'll come out once things line-up right. It's pretty damn stubborn at times..

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1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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post #74 of 82 Old 10-17-2019, 09:45 PM
paulsheer2
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The parking pawl naturally jams in awkwardly.
To loosen it, twist the driveshaft back and forth while pulling the valve body toward the front of the vehicle.

Almost zero force is needed. If you find you are pulling hard, then it means you are about to break something. (Been there *sigh*)

I think on the inline 6 the exhaust is not in the way. So the VB comes out without removing the exhaust. Definitely the V8 needs exhaust removal.


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post #75 of 82 Old 10-19-2019, 11:19 AM Thread Starter
JaimeZX
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No luck so far! Transfer case in neutral, twisted (rear) drive shaft back and forth... still seems to be hanging up. To double-check that it was the pawl and not part of the VB hitting, I paid close attention to the natural markings in the pawl as I tried to remove it while twisting the VB into different positions; the "halt" always came at the same point on the pawl. So not really sure where to go now.

The only thing I'm wondering now is, the back end is on jack stands but the front is on ramps, so obviously I can't twist the front drive shaft... is that hanging me up? I was able to check three of the five valves from the bottom, they seem to move okay. I can't tell with the other two because access is from the top... *sigh*

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