Some direction for my ZJ build - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 36 Old 09-14-2019, 06:05 AM Thread Starter
nick613
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Some direction for my ZJ build

Hey all, I recently scored a high mileage but good condition 1998 ZJ 5.2 limited for $500. With lots of junkyard parts I was able to get it through inspection and very drivable for about $600 more...

I've always had 4x4 pickups but this is my first time owning anything else. I have an 05 cummins that is my DD/work truck that I pull a 5-6k pound cargo trailer with every day. What Id like to do is build the ZJ into my hunting/bush truck and use it for running around after I get home without having to unhook the trailer from the cummins.

Would also like to be able to tow the trailer (could get it down to maybe 4500lbs) in a situation where I need to park the cummins to work on it or take it to a shop, even just for undercoating, annual safety (commercial) or something.

Heres what Im thinking...

4.5" longarm lift kit, I feel like going any higher would significantly impact my towing ability? Was thinking IRO for this.

242 or 231 swap. Whats going to be most straightforward? If I could find a 242 out of a similar year ZJ thats probably easiest right?

Differentials- 4.56:1 gear ratio, Im not a speed demon 60-65mph on the highway is fine by me and I want to run 33"+ with plenty of crawling and towing ability. I already have an LSD in the rear, should I just stick with this or am I better off to consider a locker? Would like to just go with a lunchbox locker ideally for budget's sake. Would like to lock the front aswell, thinking a lunchbox locker there too. On another note is it worth swapping in a HP30? There are a pile of XJs at my local wrecker, wouldnt be hard to acquire, would I need all new brakes/front end for this?

Tranny the 44re with 226k miles seems healthy, Ill be dropping the pan and doing a fluid/filter change. Are there any good upgrades worth doing to help with the occasional tow of the trailer? I like the idea of swapping a 46re out of a 5.9 ZJ if I could find one aswell...

Let me know what you think. I have quite a bit of experience with front end work, brakes etc but all this offroad modification stuff is new to me. Its my first time having a vehicle I dont need to take to work everyday though so I am very excited.

Cheers

Nick

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post #2 of 36 Old 09-15-2019, 08:19 AM
Some_Anchovies
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nick613 View Post
Hey all, I recently scored a high mileage but good condition 1998 ZJ 5.2 limited for $500. With lots of junkyard parts I was able to get it through inspection and very drivable for about $600 more...

I've always had 4x4 pickups but this is my first time owning anything else. I have an 05 cummins that is my DD/work truck that I pull a 5-6k pound cargo trailer with every day. What Id like to do is build the ZJ into my hunting/bush truck and use it for running around after I get home without having to unhook the trailer from the cummins.

Would also like to be able to tow the trailer (could get it down to maybe 4500lbs) in a situation where I need to park the cummins to work on it or take it to a shop, even just for undercoating, annual safety (commercial) or something.

Heres what Im thinking...

4.5" longarm lift kit, I feel like going any higher would significantly impact my towing ability? Was thinking IRO for this.

242 or 231 swap. Whats going to be most straightforward? If I could find a 242 out of a similar year ZJ thats probably easiest right?

Differentials- 4.56:1 gear ratio, Im not a speed demon 60-65mph on the highway is fine by me and I want to run 33"+ with plenty of crawling and towing ability. I already have an LSD in the rear, should I just stick with this or am I better off to consider a locker? Would like to just go with a lunchbox locker ideally for budget's sake. Would like to lock the front aswell, thinking a lunchbox locker there too. On another note is it worth swapping in a HP30? There are a pile of XJs at my local wrecker, wouldnt be hard to acquire, would I need all new brakes/front end for this?

Tranny the 44re with 226k miles seems healthy, Ill be dropping the pan and doing a fluid/filter change. Are there any good upgrades worth doing to help with the occasional tow of the trailer? I like the idea of swapping a 46re out of a 5.9 ZJ if I could find one aswell...

Let me know what you think. I have quite a bit of experience with front end work, brakes etc but all this offroad modification stuff is new to me. Its my first time having a vehicle I dont need to take to work everyday though so I am very excited.

Cheers

Nick

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242 is the most straightforward. 96-98 years if you're trying to do it before the lift due to the difference in slip-yoke lengths between 93-95 and 96-98's. Doesn't matter at all though if you're doing a slip yoke eliminator. 231 can work, but works best from a ZJ for the 4wd switch compatibility (shift cam is different on XJ's, interferes with zj switch). XJ 231 will work, but you'll have to keep the XJ switch in and either leave it unplugged or wire it in yourself.

Afaik the XJ HP30 is pretty much bolt in, it just doesn't have the provisions for the cam bolts for adjusting caster. But if you're lifting then that doesn't matter at all because you'll hopefully have adjustable control arms for setting caster and pinion angles. The HP30 is definitely good for the drive angles and being a bit stronger.

I think lockers are the best option for traction but if you'll be on the highway or in snow often they can cause some issues. Some can get a little squirrelly in the front on turns because the hubs are always locked and while they're supposed to not lock if there's no induced load some strange things can occur. For the rear, it really depends on your use and if the LSD is the stock clutch style or a torsen style. If it's one that uses clutches then I would personally get rid of it for maintenance issues but some people like being able to dial in the amount of slip with a clutch design.

If you're dropping the pan, I'd replace it with one that has a drain plug. It makes maintenance a little cleaner and less messy. They're relatively inexpensive and you can have them ordered in at pretty much any parts store. I had mine and it was great while I had it. Then I swapped to a 5-speed and so I don't do filter changes anymore.

Welcome to the ZJ fam!

95' ZJ 4.0L, 5-Speed Manual, NP231, 5.9 seats, Upcountry Lift, 275k
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post #3 of 36 Old 09-15-2019, 05:18 PM
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Love the driver. Looks very involved.

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post #4 of 36 Old 09-15-2019, 06:29 PM
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More dog photos if you want answers to your questions, heh!!!!!
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post #5 of 36 Old 09-15-2019, 06:58 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Some_Anchovies View Post
242 is the most straightforward. 96-98 years if you're trying to do it before the lift due to the difference in slip-yoke lengths between 93-95 and 96-98's. Doesn't matter at all though if you're doing a slip yoke eliminator. 231 can work, but works best from a ZJ for the 4wd switch compatibility (shift cam is different on XJ's, interferes with zj switch). XJ 231 will work, but you'll have to keep the XJ switch in and either leave it unplugged or wire it in yourself.

Afaik the XJ HP30 is pretty much bolt in, it just doesn't have the provisions for the cam bolts for adjusting caster. But if you're lifting then that doesn't matter at all because you'll hopefully have adjustable control arms for setting caster and pinion angles. The HP30 is definitely good for the drive angles and being a bit stronger.

I think lockers are the best option for traction but if you'll be on the highway or in snow often they can cause some issues. Some can get a little squirrelly in the front on turns because the hubs are always locked and while they're supposed to not lock if there's no induced load some strange things can occur. For the rear, it really depends on your use and if the LSD is the stock clutch style or a torsen style. If it's one that uses clutches then I would personally get rid of it for maintenance issues but some people like being able to dial in the amount of slip with a clutch design.

If you're dropping the pan, I'd replace it with one that has a drain plug. It makes maintenance a little cleaner and less messy. They're relatively inexpensive and you can have them ordered in at pretty much any parts store. I had mine and it was great while I had it. Then I swapped to a 5-speed and so I don't do filter changes anymore.

Welcome to the ZJ fam!
Thanks!

Ok so I'll keep my eye out for a 242 out of a 96-98 ZJ only a matter of time until one rolls into the scrapyard or comes up for parts... Id rather have the straightforward swap if I can Im not in a huge rush. Would it be more difficult to do after a long arm lift? My 249 works just the VC is pretty worn. Hard turns on dry pavement get some screeching but this thing isnt a DD. 2wd would be nice.

Does it matter what year of Cherokee I get the HP 30 out of? Theres a pile of these at my local wrecker. I imagine that would effect my shocks/springs in the front?

For lockers yes it will be on the highway and see snow but I really want a very trail capable vehicle. Again its not a DD, just want to drive to places to go hunting, fishing and camping. If I am in 2wd would the front lunchbox locker ever cause issues?

Would be so sweet to swap a 5 speed in one day. Maybe something to look into after the first wave of modifications

Where's the best place to get regear kits? I think I want to go 4.56:1.

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post #6 of 36 Old 09-15-2019, 07:02 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by corpseal View Post
More dog photos if you want answers to your questions, heh!!!!!
Ask and you shall receive. We took the jeep out today for small game opener. Ran the pup for 4 hours but we didnt put up any birds. Was a nice morning though and now I have a tired dog for the evening.

Im really happy with what this thing can do stock, really excited for the lift and other mods

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post #7 of 36 Old 09-16-2019, 01:37 AM
Some_Anchovies
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nick613 View Post
Thanks!

Ok so I'll keep my eye out for a 242 out of a 96-98 ZJ only a matter of time until one rolls into the scrapyard or comes up for parts... Id rather have the straightforward swap if I can Im not in a huge rush. Would it be more difficult to do after a long arm lift? My 249 works just the VC is pretty worn. Hard turns on dry pavement get some screeching but this thing isnt a DD. 2wd would be nice.

Does it matter what year of Cherokee I get the HP 30 out of? Theres a pile of these at my local wrecker. I imagine that would effect my shocks/springs in the front?

For lockers yes it will be on the highway and see snow but I really want a very trail capable vehicle. Again its not a DD, just want to drive to places to go hunting, fishing and camping. If I am in 2wd would the front lunchbox locker ever cause issues?

Would be so sweet to swap a 5 speed in one day. Maybe something to look into after the first wave of modifications

Where's the best place to get regear kits? I think I want to go 4.56:1.

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Not really any more difficult to do. You just might want to swap to a different driveshaft for angles and do an SYE.

The only years the XJ didn't have the D30HP was 00 and 01. The 91-99 ones are the years to look for. If they're 90' and older, they have vacuum disconnect unless it was factory equipped with a 242 transfer case. There are a few rare 91's that are also vacuum disconnect but most weren't. The prime ones to get are 96+ for the upgraded u-joints or 91-95 with ABS. They don't have to have ABS to work though, it's just a bonus if they do. If they don't, all you have to do is use your knuckles and ZJ axle shafts.

Nothing really changes between the D30LP and D30HP besides the lower control arm brackets and maybe the sway bar link location. Shocks and springs don't change.

No you shouldn't have issues in 2wd. If you do it's extremely minor annoyances and it's not your DD so you'll be fine with a locker.

I don't know much about any compatible 5-speed swaps for ZJ's with OBD-II, especially v8 models. The ZJ only had a 5-speed available in 93 and part of 94 and only with the I6. I just got lucky finding a factory 94 5-speed ZJ that was rotting away and my auto was on its way out at 266k. So the factory 5-speed parts get to keep living on in my 95.

No personal opinion on where to buy gearing stuff, but I've heard Morris 4x4 has good customer service. Maybe others can chime in. I've only bought rebuild kits not the gears themselves.

95' ZJ 4.0L, 5-Speed Manual, NP231, 5.9 seats, Upcountry Lift, 275k
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post #8 of 36 Old 09-16-2019, 03:34 PM
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I have a 93 Laredo that, according to the factory, is one of only 1200 ever made.
Most were base SE stripper models.
Even with the 4.0 six, it really does change the character of the engine. Much more satisfying drive.

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post #9 of 36 Old 09-17-2019, 05:53 PM
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Hey there Nick 613, thanks for keeping another ZJ alive man!

I'll list what I have on mine and give you my 2 pennies' worth of opinion.

95 zj with 165,000 miles
4.0L
NP231 transfercase
42RE
Dana 30/35 with 3.55 Gears and ABS
IRO 3.5 Springs
Bilstein 5100s
Adjustable upper and lower control arms
Adjustable front and rear track bars
Discovery Maxx 255/85/R16s which is about 33"x10"tires
Procomp 16x8 aluminum wheels
Redhead steering gear: Durango Box upgrade
APC Headers
2.5 Custom Exhaust with early dump at rear axle
IRO frame stiffeners

Issues encountered over the 16 years I've owned this Jeep:
Cracked Stock Headers
Hole in AC condenser
Rear main seal leak
Valve Cover leak
Failed Smog Test
Death Wobble
Steering Stabilizer Leaking
Steering gear worn out
Bad starter
Worn ball joints
Worn bearings
Radio died
Rear lift gate lifters failing

Opinion:

For me the biggest bang for my buck has been the Redhead Steering Gear Durango Upgrade box. That really helped with the death wobble and overall driving experience. Its about the same price as the AGR box but my local Jeep mechanic was not too keen on AGR's quality in recent years (no need to take over the thread debating this, just bringing it up as a topic to be aware of when searching for steering boxes, so post elsewhere if you want to argue for AGRs reputation). 33x10 tires are not that big but the Durango box does make them feel like stock size again, one thing to note is that the upgraded box I got takes a little more turning of the wheel to go from lock to lock... but I already got used to it and there is NO LOSS OF TURNING RADIUS. One drawback was that the radiator fan shroud needed to be cut some to fit the durango gear since it is a larger unit overall. Full disclosure I've had it about 3 months so I can't provide mid or long term feed back but it so far is pretty dang cool. Bolts right in too! Just call Redhead up and they will answer everything you need to know, they know their stuff.

Can't talk much about a 4.5" long arm but I can tell you what a 3.5" short arm is like. To fit 33s on a 3.5" lift I moved the axle forward (using the upper and lower adjustable CAs) to clear the rearward wheel well corner. But this meant I needed to trim the front bumper since the tires were touching the bumper. I trimmed a horizontal line that is just above where the fog lights are mounted to allow for the front tires to turn and flex without rubbing. I also got new wheels that are a 0 offset which helped clear the inward areas of the wheel wells (Tire Size dot com helped with tire fitting diagramming) since my stock rims had a +24mm offset on a 7 inch rim. For the rear I pretty much did the opposite, moved the axle back a little to clear the front corner except I haven't had to trim the bumper yet. Drives perfectly fine, really nice smooth ride, wheels hide bumps, bilsteins are perfect, not all over the place and drives straight and no death wobble. So far haven't had any clearance issues, got plenty of ground clearance and approach and departure angles (but the hitch takes a little of that away). I've had the IRO lift for 6 years and my only suggestion is to try the flex joint on the track bar, the rubber bushing is a little squishy in my eyes. I've been meaning to pick that up to but just haven't yet. Control Arms don't come loose or anything, only had to tighten them a couple of times but I think that is what you give up to have adjustable front and read axle steering and drive-line angles... a trade that is well worth it too!

One more thing about lifts... check your local laws regarding lift height regulations. I moved from Mass and they have a little equation that tells you how high of a lift is legal there (for my ZJ it was like 2.75 inches or something). Now in California, which doesn't have a suspension lift height limit that I am aware of but they do have other limits that impact lifts like max headlight height.

With 33s and stock 3.55 gears, to say my acceleration is anemic would be an understatement... perfectly fine at slower speeds or flat ground or in 1st or 2nd gear... but most of the time I'm not at a stop light so I need to downshift to do any passing. So a re-gear is definitely something I want to do (maybe not as bad for the 5.2?).

Definitely be on the lookout for death wobble (knock on wood), when that happened to be I pretty much had to replace all the ball joints, and CA bushings and get a new track bar to get it to stop, in retrospect I would've also replace the steering gear years ago to help with the issue too.

Check out which rear axle you have in the back, from what I understand you may have a Dana 44a or more likely a Dana 35c... good to know for planning a major build with possible lockers and re-gearing.

Alright that's all I got off the top of my head. Nice jeep bud!

-PartyTime

Last edited by PartyTime; 09-17-2019 at 11:44 PM.
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post #10 of 36 Old 09-18-2019, 12:54 PM
LordHobbit
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Talk to Kolak, PM here or [email protected]. Give him your phone number and he'll call you. He is incredibly knowledgeable about ZJ lifts etc. And he'll give you a great deal on whatever you end up deciding to get. He's got regearing stuff too.

Definitely get a HPD30. Everything swaps just fine, complete bolt in. I swapped over the stock ZJ knuckles, brakes etc. The HPD30 was from a '97 I think so it had the bigger u-joint shafts so that scored me an extra set. woot. I discourage lunchbox lockers in the front. Selectable are better, but more expensive. I've got a e-locker in my HPD30. it's wonderful.

You'll have the D44a rear end. Note it is different than a D44. Kolak can fill you in. Rebuild the LSD that is there. That will work for you ok. If you want a lunchbox locker in the back, you'll have get an open carrier to swap out. During regear is a great time since it has to come out anyway. Locker options are Spartan and Aussie.

Are you sure you need 33s? You'll be incredibly surprised at what you can do stock. If you aren't seriously rock crawling I'd stay below 2.5" lift and stick with 31s. Kolak can tell you about the OME setup. If you go that way you may not need to regear, or just regear to 4.11s.

Good luck

93 red ZJ 196k 4.0. Spent more money than I should have ...
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post #11 of 36 Old 09-18-2019, 08:08 PM Thread Starter
nick613
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PartyTime View Post
Hey there Nick 613, thanks for keeping another ZJ alive man!

I'll list what I have on mine and give you my 2 pennies' worth of opinion.

95 zj with 165,000 miles
4.0L
NP231 transfercase
42RE
Dana 30/35 with 3.55 Gears and ABS
IRO 3.5 Springs
Bilstein 5100s
Adjustable upper and lower control arms
Adjustable front and rear track bars
Discovery Maxx 255/85/R16s which is about 33"x10"tires
Procomp 16x8 aluminum wheels
Redhead steering gear: Durango Box upgrade
APC Headers
2.5 Custom Exhaust with early dump at rear axle
IRO frame stiffeners

Issues encountered over the 16 years I've owned this Jeep:
Cracked Stock Headers
Hole in AC condenser
Rear main seal leak
Valve Cover leak
Failed Smog Test
Death Wobble
Steering Stabilizer Leaking
Steering gear worn out
Bad starter
Worn ball joints
Worn bearings
Radio died
Rear lift gate lifters failing

Opinion:

For me the biggest bang for my buck has been the Redhead Steering Gear Durango Upgrade box. That really helped with the death wobble and overall driving experience. Its about the same price as the AGR box but my local Jeep mechanic was not too keen on AGR's quality in recent years (no need to take over the thread debating this, just bringing it up as a topic to be aware of when searching for steering boxes, so post elsewhere if you want to argue for AGRs reputation). 33x10 tires are not that big but the Durango box does make them feel like stock size again, one thing to note is that the upgraded box I got takes a little more turning of the wheel to go from lock to lock... but I already got used to it and there is NO LOSS OF TURNING RADIUS. One drawback was that the radiator fan shroud needed to be cut some to fit the durango gear since it is a larger unit overall. Full disclosure I've had it about 3 months so I can't provide mid or long term feed back but it so far is pretty dang cool. Bolts right in too! Just call Redhead up and they will answer everything you need to know, they know their stuff.

Can't talk much about a 4.5" long arm but I can tell you what a 3.5" short arm is like. To fit 33s on a 3.5" lift I moved the axle forward (using the upper and lower adjustable CAs) to clear the rearward wheel well corner. But this meant I needed to trim the front bumper since the tires were touching the bumper. I trimmed a horizontal line that is just above where the fog lights are mounted to allow for the front tires to turn and flex without rubbing. I also got new wheels that are a 0 offset which helped clear the inward areas of the wheel wells (Tire Size dot com helped with tire fitting diagramming) since my stock rims had a +24mm offset on a 7 inch rim. For the rear I pretty much did the opposite, moved the axle back a little to clear the front corner except I haven't had to trim the bumper yet. Drives perfectly fine, really nice smooth ride, wheels hide bumps, bilsteins are perfect, not all over the place and drives straight and no death wobble. So far haven't had any clearance issues, got plenty of ground clearance and approach and departure angles (but the hitch takes a little of that away). I've had the IRO lift for 6 years and my only suggestion is to try the flex joint on the track bar, the rubber bushing is a little squishy in my eyes. I've been meaning to pick that up to but just haven't yet. Control Arms don't come loose or anything, only had to tighten them a couple of times but I think that is what you give up to have adjustable front and read axle steering and drive-line angles... a trade that is well worth it too!

One more thing about lifts... check your local laws regarding lift height regulations. I moved from Mass and they have a little equation that tells you how high of a lift is legal there (for my ZJ it was like 2.75 inches or something). Now in California, which doesn't have a suspension lift height limit that I am aware of but they do have other limits that impact lifts like max headlight height.

With 33s and stock 3.55 gears, to say my acceleration is anemic would be an understatement... perfectly fine at slower speeds or flat ground or in 1st or 2nd gear... but most of the time I'm not at a stop light so I need to downshift to do any passing. So a re-gear is definitely something I want to do (maybe not as bad for the 5.2?).

Definitely be on the lookout for death wobble (knock on wood), when that happened to be I pretty much had to replace all the ball joints, and CA bushings and get a new track bar to get it to stop, in retrospect I would've also replace the steering gear years ago to help with the issue too.

Check out which rear axle you have in the back, from what I understand you may have a Dana 44a or more likely a Dana 35c... good to know for planning a major build with possible lockers and re-gearing.

Alright that's all I got off the top of my head. Nice jeep bud!

-PartyTime
Thanks a lot for all that info man.

Ive never heard of the durango steering box upgrade. Could be something to try.

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post #12 of 36 Old 09-18-2019, 08:20 PM Thread Starter
nick613
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LordHobbit View Post
Talk to Kolak, PM here or [email protected]. Give him your phone number and he'll call you. He is incredibly knowledgeable about ZJ lifts etc. And he'll give you a great deal on whatever you end up deciding to get. He's got regearing stuff too.

Definitely get a HPD30. Everything swaps just fine, complete bolt in. I swapped over the stock ZJ knuckles, brakes etc. The HPD30 was from a '97 I think so it had the bigger u-joint shafts so that scored me an extra set. woot. I discourage lunchbox lockers in the front. Selectable are better, but more expensive. I've got a e-locker in my HPD30. it's wonderful.

You'll have the D44a rear end. Note it is different than a D44. Kolak can fill you in. Rebuild the LSD that is there. That will work for you ok. If you want a lunchbox locker in the back, you'll have get an open carrier to swap out. During regear is a great time since it has to come out anyway. Locker options are Spartan and Aussie.

Are you sure you need 33s? You'll be incredibly surprised at what you can do stock. If you aren't seriously rock crawling I'd stay below 2.5" lift and stick with 31s. Kolak can tell you about the OME setup. If you go that way you may not need to regear, or just regear to 4.11s.

Good luck
Thanks man, I've heard about Kolak, I'll definitely touch base with him sooner to when I plan on starting the lift. It'll be a winter project for me. December at the earliest, for now Im just rocking it stock and looking for used parts i.e 242 Tcase, HPD30 axle.

Selectable locker would be awesome... Just need to watch the budget. Which E locker do you have?

Yup I noticed that about the lockers I saw available for the D44a, from what I understand an open carrier from a WJ D44a will work too? Would be way easier to find since my local yard is now fresh out of ZJs!

I feel like Im comprimising running 33s. If I wasnt trying to keep the ability to pull a 5k pound trailer (hence 4.56:1) on occasion I'd be planning on running 35s. Would you say theres any disadvantage to going with a taller lift? I want to be able to take this thing anywhere you would take a stock side by side ATV. I have some spots I want to get into that would probably be considered mild rock crawling.

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post #13 of 36 Old 09-18-2019, 08:35 PM
jeeepguy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nick613 View Post
Thanks man, I've heard about Kolak, I'll definitely touch base with him sooner to when I plan on starting the lift. It'll be a winter project for me. December at the earliest, for now Im just rocking it stock and looking for used parts i.e 242 Tcase, HPD30 axle.

Selectable locker would be awesome... Just need to watch the budget. Which E locker do you have?

Yup I noticed that about the lockers I saw available for the D44a, from what I understand an open carrier from a WJ D44a will work too? Would be way easier to find since my local yard is now fresh out of ZJs!

I feel like Im comprimising running 33s. If I wasnt trying to keep the ability to pull a 5k pound trailer (hence 4.56:1) on occasion I'd be planning on running 35s. Would you say theres any disadvantage to going with a taller lift? I want to be able to take this thing anywhere you would take a stock side by side ATV. I have some spots I want to get into that would probably be considered mild rock crawling.

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If you are careful, you can run the Rubicon in a stock ZJ. 33s are not needed in any way. 31s on a moderate lift will get you all but about 5% of all the trails in North America.

"Si Vis Pacem Para Bellum"

"Great danger lies in the notion that we can reason with evil"
Doug Patton
Quote:
...We use words like honor, code, loyalty. We use these words as the backbone of a life spent defending something. ...I have neither the time nor the inclination to explain myself to a man who rises and sleeps under the blanket of the very freedom that I provide, then questions the manner in which I provide it. I would rather you just said thank you, and went on your way, Otherwise, I suggest you pick up a weapon, and stand a post...
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Quote:
Revelation 13:16-18
16 - He causes all, both small and great, rich and poor, free and slave, to receive a mark on their right hand or on their foreheads,
17 - and that no one may buy or sell except one who has the mark or the name of the beast, or the number of his name.
18 - Here is wisdom. Let him who has understanding calculate the number of the beast, for it is the number of a man: (Real ID and RFID chips)
Think about it...
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post #14 of 36 Old 09-19-2019, 07:42 AM
LordHobbit
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I agree. I hit a really gnarly trail in Death Valley on stock suspension and 30s. While a few times I had one wheel up in the air, I didn't have any problem traversing the trail. I was super impressed. 2.5" lift with 31s will be plenty for you. However, I would regear to 4.11 if you plan on towing.

You should upgrade to 1 ton axles if you want to go 35s.

Eaton E-locker is what I'm running in the front.

Do a good bit of research on the durango steering box "upgrade". Lots of pros and cons to weigh.

93 red ZJ 196k 4.0. Spent more money than I should have ...
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post #15 of 36 Old 09-19-2019, 08:02 AM Thread Starter
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What about snow/ mud? I feel the extra clearance on the 33s/4.5" lift would be beneficial for that. Im in Ontario, Canada we have snow for atleast 5 months of the year and another 2-3 months of wet, muddy trails. Thats my main concern with dropping down to 31s. Though going to a 2.5-3.5" lift and 31s would clear up a lot of budget space for axle upgrades etc...

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