Reviving 1993 ZJ, Long term sitting, what to change before I attempt start -
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post #1 of 6 Old 12-22-2016, 05:19 PM Thread Starter
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Bristol
Posts: 21
Reviving 1993 ZJ, Long term sitting, what to change before I attempt start

Just bought a 1993 ZJ I6 4x4 with 40k miles. Other than the usual fluids(brake, oil, gas, radiator, transmission, differentials), spark plugs, wires, etc. What else would you recommend that I do before I attempt to start it?

It has the 42RE transmission, but I'm hoping it's in working condition, but currently I don't know as I haven't tried to get it going at all.

The ZJ will be up for sale at some point, and I'll post a build log as soon as I start really working on it.

Build sheet is as follows:

M5 Cloth High-Back Bucket Seats
ADBP Protection Group
ADCP Convenience Group
APAS Monotone Paint
ARNP Laredo Decor Group (97-02-26)
AWHP Power Equipment Group
BARS 90 Amp Alternator
BCES 600 Amp Maintenance Free Battery
BGKS 4-Wheel Anti-Lock Brakes
CADP High Back Bucket Seats
CFNS Rear 60/40 Folding Seat
CGTS Driver Air Bag Only
CKDP Floor Carpet
CKNS Cargo Compartment Carpet
CKTP Cargo Tie Down Loops
CKVP MOPAR All Weather Mats
CLEP Front & Rear Floor Mats
CSAS Spare Tire Cover
CSCP Cargo Compartment Cover
CSRP Passenger Assist Handles
CUFP Full Length Floor Console
DGB All 4-Speed Automatic Transmissions
DGKS 4-Spd. Automatic 42RE Transmission
DHAS Lock-Up Torque Converter
DHNS Command-Trac Part Time 4WD System
DJHS 230MM Front Axle
DMDS 3.55 Rear Axle Ratio
DRJS 175MM Rear Axle
ERH 4.0L I6 Power Tech Engine
GBBS Tinted Windshield Glass
GCBS Front Door Tinted Glass
GEDS Tinted Rr Drs/Qtr/Liftgate Glass
GFAP Rear Window Defroster
GNCP Sun Visors w/Illum Vanity Mirrors
GRKP Left Power Mirror
GSKP Right Power Mirror
GTKP Power Mirrors
GVBC All Vehicles W/Power Mirrors
GXMP Keyless Entry with Panic Alarm
HAAP Air Conditioning
HGAP Hood Insulation
HGDS Deluxe Insulation Group
JAYS DO NOT USE - See JP, KA classes
JCDS 100 MPH Primary Speedometer
JHAS Var Intermittent Windshield Wipers
JHBS Rear Window Wiper/Washer
JJAS Cigar Lighter
JJBS Dual Note Electric Horns
JKDS Remote Fuel Door Release
JPAP Power Windows
JPBP Power Locks
LAGP Warning Chime
LBBS Courtesy Lamps
LBCS Glove Box Lamp
LBDS Ash Tray Lamp
LCDS Map/Dome Reading Lamps
LDAS Underhood Lamp
LDBS Cargo Compartment Lamp
LMBS Halogen Headlamps
MDAP Front License Plate Bracket
MFZP Bright Grille
MHAS Black Windshield Moldings
MWGP Roof Rack
NAAS Federal Emissions
NHMP Speed Control
PG5 Hunter Green Metallic
QG5S Hunter Green Metallic Clear Coat
RAAC All Radio Equipped Vehicles
RASP AM/FM Cassette Radio
RCDP 4 Speakers
SBAS Power Rack and Pinion Steering
SCGP Leather Wrapped Steering Wheel
SFAS Standard Duty Shock Absorbers
SGAS Rear Shock Absorbers
SUAP Tilt Steering Column
TBB Full Size Spare Tire
TBLS Inside Mounted Spare Tire
TMEP 215/65R16 LBL All Season Tires
TZAP Goodyear Brand Tires
WJ5P 15X7.0 Full-Face Steel Wheels
WKDP 17" Aluminum Spare Wheel
WLYC All Steel Wheels
YAAS Build To U.S. Mkt. Specifications

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post #2 of 6 Old 12-22-2016, 11:18 PM
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1998 ZJ 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Orillia
Posts: 524
How long has it been sitting exactly? I'd at least check the oil, and only if it looked close to new, use it. But at the very least change the oil and filter first. Doesn't really matter whats in it for coolant at this moment so long as it is full. It may require a flush, but it is not needed pre-startup necessarily.

All the fluids should get changed before you DRIVE it though.

'98 ZJ 4.0/242, Locked d30/d35, 31x10.5x15, 2" BB w/ Bilstein 5100's
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post #3 of 6 Old 12-23-2016, 07:26 AM
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1993 ZJ 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Austin
Posts: 2,985
Agree, depends on how long it actually sat. 40,000 miles, did they drive it until 97 then park it or did they drive it a couple thousand miles a year?

Some things I've encountered getting a vehicle that sat back on the road (sat for 3 years, sat for 8 years)
  • brake parts corrode internally
  • rubber seals dry out and leak
  • lots of corrosion in the cooling system
  • dried out rubber belts slip and are prone to cracking
  • shocks slowly lose their nitrogen charge

Things drying out or corroding are the big concerns. Even regular chassis grease will separate after a while sitting. Everything rubber is probably suspect as well.
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post #4 of 6 Old 12-23-2016, 09:40 AM
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1998 ZJ 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: California
Posts: 2,455
Wow, that's crazy low mileage! If it's accurate, you scored a nice ZJ. If you do build the Jeep, and are considering a lift and tire-size increase, bear in mind that you have 3.55 gearing. I doubt that you'd want to go much over 31" with those gears. The 4.0L is a great engine for longevity, but a bit short on the power.
I don't know much about them, but it looks like you have the NP231 transfer case in there. It's my understanding that it's a good one, and has more options for modification, should you consider such things. Congrat's on your near-new ZJ.

1998 Laredo 4.0L 4x4, 242 TC. Turned over 200K miles in 06/18. Original owner.
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post #5 of 6 Old 12-23-2016, 10:43 AM
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1993 ZJ 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Utah
Posts: 2,602
put defog oil in the cylinders when you change the plugs. I would consider pulling the valve cover and dousing the valve train with oil also.

Look over all the wiring for rodent damage.

air filter
suspension bushings
motor mounts

93 red ZJ 196k 4.0. Spent more money than I should have ...
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post #6 of 6 Old 12-24-2016, 04:28 PM Thread Starter
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Bristol
Posts: 21
It's verified at 40k miles, only damage is a slight dent on the left front fender, above the turn signal. I put together a order from rockauto for most of the rubber suspension parts, ordered brake rebuild parts, master cylinder rebuild parts, basically $300 of all new parts for rebuilding the systems to make a reliable daily driver for someone.

Intention entirely is to resell the car after I rebuild the systems to a point that I would feel comfortable having my child or someone else's child drive the car, knowing it's reliable. I'm not lifting the suspension, or doing any mods that might put off some buyers. If the next owner wants to perform a lift, that's up to them.

I'll add the oil fogger to the list, and will be cranking the engine over to lubricate everything, before adding fuel to the mix, so the engine parts will lubricate, I can then properly check oil pressure, etc.

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