Removal Of ABS Module; 97 ZJ - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 17 Old 03-08-2008, 10:34 PM Thread Starter
baddarryl
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Removal Of ABS Module; 97 ZJ

I am going to have my module rebuilt and have read that I can pull the module and still drive the truck. My manual shows it as a unit with the motor, controller, and hyd connections all in one. Am I looking in the right place under the air box?I haven't actually looked at it yet, but I am assuming I can disconnect the controller from the rest of the unit. Am I in the right neighborhood of thinking? Someone help me out. I have been told I need a new module part # 52009047 and found someone to rebuild it, so I need to know how to jerk it out. Thanks guys. Sorry for the long post.......it's late.

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post #2 of 17 Old 03-10-2008, 07:21 AM Thread Starter
baddarryl
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bumpity bump
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post #3 of 17 Old 03-10-2008, 08:36 AM
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Looks like the ABS controller is near the brake booster, but the FSM doesn't say much about it.

abscontroller.jpg

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post #4 of 17 Old 03-10-2008, 11:21 AM
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That year should have the Teves Mk20 system, in which the computer has the solenoid coils built in, and is bolted to the bottom of the valve block/pump assembly. It's located in the same place as the previous hydraulic unit, between the air box and the brake booster.

Not sure if you can remove the computer without removing the whole assembly first. It's held on by 4 fasteners that require a torx socket (not torx bit). Once the screws are off, and the unit unplugged, it has to slide about an inch and a half off of the valve "posts" on the block. These posts will be vulnerable without the computer covering them, so make sure they won't be rested on or hit. Also, if you'd have to unbolt the ICU (Integrated control unit) and twist it around on it's hoses to get the comptuer off, then it's probably better to just remove the whole thing and not risk damage.
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post #5 of 17 Old 03-11-2008, 05:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by baddarryl View Post
I am going to have my module rebuilt and have read that I can pull the module and still drive the truck.
Sounds good in theory, but I recommend pulling the bulb from the dash. That only takes a few minutes to do. It is a computer, and rebuild of a computer sounds expensive to me. A new unit costs $600. If you could find a used unit in the boneyard, then that may work best if it is that important to you.

The HCU (hydraulic control unit) and the CAB are mounted together, and I am not sure if you can separate them or not. Even if you can, you should not drive with the HCU just flapping in the breeze. I could see you breaking those tiny hydraulic lines.

I just learn to drive more carefully when it is wet (e.g., do not glue yourself to the bumper of the guy in front of you). I have gone many years without a functional ABS without issue on both snow and rain.

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post #6 of 17 Old 03-11-2008, 06:25 AM Thread Starter
baddarryl
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kentman View Post
Sounds good in theory, but I recommend pulling the bulb from the dash. That only takes a few minutes to do. It is a computer, and rebuild of a computer sounds expensive to me. A new unit costs $600. If you could find a used unit in the boneyard, then that may work best if it is that important to you.

The HCU (hydraulic control unit) and the CAB are mounted together, and I am not sure if you can separate them or not. Even if you can, you should not drive with the HCU just flapping in the breeze. I could see you breaking those tiny hydraulic lines.

I just learn to drive more carefully when it is wet (e.g., do not glue yourself to the bumper of the guy in front of you). I have gone many years without a functional ABS without issue on both snow and rain.
I have been doing that for quite some time. After all I learned to drive in the pre Abs days so no biggie for me. I am thinking about resale though and don't want to be dishonest. Dealer quoted me $1300 for a new unit. Ouch.

Wow, I just noticed you were in Wilmywood too. Kewl.

Last edited by baddarryl; 03-11-2008 at 08:10 AM.
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post #7 of 17 Old 03-11-2008, 09:04 AM
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You can try to resolder the board. Lots of times the main issue is cold / broken solder joints. Just be carefull not to "solder blob" short stuff together. Go to radio shack & get a solder iron for pc board work & you'll be ok. It's a lot cheaper than a new or replacement controler if it works.

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post #8 of 17 Old 03-11-2008, 09:05 AM
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...and if it doesn't, should make a pretty cool paperweight!

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post #9 of 17 Old 03-11-2008, 09:26 AM
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Originally Posted by FPKites View Post
...and if it doesn't, should make a pretty cool paperweight!
it would be pretty cool paper weight, no doubt about that.

"hey whats that on your desk there?"

"o, that thing? that thing is my ABS module off my JEEP."

build thread:
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post #10 of 17 Old 03-12-2008, 04:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by baddarryl View Post
I am thinking about resale though and don't want to be dishonest. Dealer quoted me $1300 for a new unit. Ouch.
I would just pull the bulb and tell any new buyer that the ABS is not working. The brakes still work perfectly in non-ABS mode. There is nothing dishonest about that.

$1300 for a new unit is a major waste of money on an eleven year old vehicle. Pulling the bulb just removes the annoyance reminder.

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post #11 of 17 Old 03-23-2008, 06:29 PM
Sal
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I just found this thread too late or I would have offered it to you but I just posted it on E-bay. An ABS unit for 1997 Jeep ZJ. It has the pump and module.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=230234976304
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post #12 of 17 Old 04-04-2011, 10:49 AM
montanabrent
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i just got everything module pump and perportion valve all for $95 for my 98 zj they junk yard gave me a 90 day warranty on it . maybe u could try that where u live ?
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post #13 of 17 Old 04-04-2011, 05:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by baddarryl View Post
I am going to have my module rebuilt and have read that I can pull the module and still drive the truck. My manual shows it as a unit with the motor, controller, and hyd connections all in one. Am I looking in the right place under the air box?I haven't actually looked at it yet, but I am assuming I can disconnect the controller from the rest of the unit. Am I in the right neighborhood of thinking? Someone help me out. I have been told I need a new module part # 52009047 and found someone to rebuild it, so I need to know how to jerk it out. Thanks guys. Sorry for the long post.......it's late.
I have a '98, but here goes:
The HCU can be separated from the ECU, and you will still be able to drive... the hydraulic system is not opened.
First, remove the two electrical connectors.
Next using a 13mm socket, remove the three bolts which fasten the unit to it's bracket. Position the unit so that you can get to the bottom of it. Feel around and/or use a mirror to locate the four 2" long bolts that mount the ECU to the HCU. Use an E5 external Torx socket to remove them (be careful not to lose them).
At this point you should be able to separate the two pieces. Remount the HCU.

EDIT: YIKEES!!! I just noticed that this tread is from 2008!
Oh well, maybe this will help someone else.
Attached Thumbnails
connector.JPG   topview.JPG   e5socket.JPG   ecu back old.JPG   hcu.JPG  


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Last edited by SJZ; 04-04-2011 at 05:23 PM. Reason: epiphany
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post #14 of 17 Old 02-21-2012, 06:51 AM
joshuaembry
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Thanks, the last post helped. I ended up just disconnecting the 2 cables and leaving the unit in place, same results. I figured why remove it if you aren't replacing it.

-Josh

Owned: 93 Wrangler, 82 Wagoneer, 76 DJ-5D Postal, 90 Cherokee, 92 Cherokee, 2002 Liberty...
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post #15 of 17 Old 04-04-2012, 05:08 AM
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Nothing wrong with an old post. the problem still occurs as I have just found out.

Like other people have mentioned, my blower motor comes on at random times like in the middle of the night when ignition is off, and drains the battery.

This has been doing my head in for ages and i have to disconnect the battery terminal every time I leave the car.

People have said that this is caused by the ABS unit feeding back voltage via fuse 11. I'll look into replacing the unit somehow.

If I can fix the unit I have a great idea to fiddle with the wire connector and run a wire to the cabin with a switch. This way one can turn the ABS on and off as one likes. This is handy for offroad where the ABS doesn't help. On loose dirt you want the wheels to lock up.
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