Oil Pain Gasket/Rear Main Seal Job - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 26 Old 08-05-2019, 12:38 PM Thread Starter
firebane
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Oil Pain Gasket/Rear Main Seal Job

So I figured I'd stop the bleeding and do a oil pain and rear main seal job on the Jeep; note this isn't my first time doing these jobs.


Got the pan out.. rear mail out.. put it all back together and started it up.. still have a very minor and small leak


The worst part and I'm not sure what is going on now is that from a dead stop or say a step on the break and give it gas go.. you can hear a low end knock like there isn't enough oil in the system.


I've checked the dipstick its in the "safe" mark.


Between the pan, rear main seal and going from 10w30 to 15w40 oil...



How could any of these three cause this "knock" that did not exist from before.

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post #2 of 26 Old 08-05-2019, 02:25 PM
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I would imagine it's from the thicker oil. Why did you put 15w40 in it ?
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post #3 of 26 Old 08-05-2019, 03:39 PM Thread Starter
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I would imagine it's from the thicker oil. Why did you put 15w40 in it ?
I wasn't sure what I had out in it last. Then I found the info after.

I've never heard of thicker oil doing this, but I am changing it out.
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post #4 of 26 Old 08-06-2019, 08:27 AM
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1.) Did you use anaerobic sealant on the seal/cap ends? Did you check if the crank sealing surface was un-grooved and/or use an offset seal?

2.) Pull off the lower trans inspection cover and see if the knock goes away. That plate is really easy to bend and if the torque converter bolts hit it, it can sound like a bottom end knock.

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post #5 of 26 Old 08-06-2019, 08:30 AM Thread Starter
firebane
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Originally Posted by CatSplat View Post
1.) Did you use anaerobic sealant on the seal/cap ends? Did you check if the crank sealing surface was un-grooved and/or use an offset seal?

2.) Pull off the lower trans inspection cover and see if the knock goes away. That plate is really easy to bend and if the torque converter bolts hit it, it can sound like a bottom end knock.

1) Black ultra rtv on the end cap; didn't fill the side holes though so hoping maybe that is the leak issue.

Ungrooved?
Offset seal?


Seems you can only buy one type of seal.


2) Cover was off the whole time during this test.


Hopefully changing back to a 10w30 helps...
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post #6 of 26 Old 08-06-2019, 09:06 AM
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If your old seal had been leaking for a while, grit can get in there and wear a groove in the crank where the seal rides. Eventually it gets to to the point the groove is deep enough that even a brand-new seal will leak. Sometimes you can buy a seal that has the seal lip offset at a slightly different location to avoid that groove, I'm not sure if that's available for the 5.2.


RTV is not the right sealant for the end cap surfaces, as per the FSM.



RTV for the side seals, anaerobic flange sealant for the mating surface. Doesn't have to be Loctite, I use a Permatex sealant available at Cambodian Tire.

In case you didn't, another important thing is to apply some assembly lube to the seal face before installing - if the crank-to-seal surface is dry, it can wreck the seal the instant the motor is started as the seal surface can melt before oil gets to it.

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post #7 of 26 Old 08-06-2019, 09:40 AM Thread Starter
firebane
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Originally Posted by CatSplat View Post
If your old seal had been leaking for a while, grit can get in there and wear a groove in the crank where the seal rides. Eventually it gets to to the point the groove is deep enough that even a brand-new seal will leak. Sometimes you can buy a seal that has the seal lip offset at a slightly different location to avoid that groove, I'm not sure if that's available for the 5.2.


RTV is not the right sealant for the end cap surfaces, as per the FSM.



RTV for the side seals, anaerobic flange sealant for the mating surface. Doesn't have to be Loctite, I use a Permatex sealant available at Cambodian Tire.

In case you didn't, another important thing is to apply some assembly lube to the seal face before installing - if the crank-to-seal surface is dry, it can wreck the seal the instant the motor is started as the seal surface can melt before oil gets to it.

I just hear everyone say that black rtv ultra is fine to use so I did. I'm grabbing another seal "just in case" because locally $50 for that thing is robbery.



I'll grab the anaerobic stuff but unfortunately only 1 location has it :\ I'll do some calling around first.


The only thing I noticed on the crank was stains around the crank where the oil passage is, everything else looked fine.
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post #8 of 26 Old 08-06-2019, 10:26 AM
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If you're willing to drive up to Saddleridge this evening, I have a tube of the anaerobic sealer you can borrow, assuming it's still good.
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post #9 of 26 Old 08-06-2019, 10:55 AM
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I used Black RTV when I did mine with no problems ? That's all I ever heard of any one using. YES $50 BUCKS IS DEFENITELY FREGGIN ROBBERY. Are you sure it's actually still leaking & not oil puddled somewhere ?
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post #10 of 26 Old 08-06-2019, 11:07 AM Thread Starter
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I used Black RTV when I did mine with no problems ? That's all I ever heard of any one using. YES $50 BUCKS IS DEFENITELY FREGGIN ROBBERY. Are you sure it's actually still leaking & not oil puddled somewhere ?

Welcome to Canadian part store pricing


Oh yeah.. leaking. Comes down behind the inspection plate and drops from the bell housing.


I started it and then it cool down.. checked pan bolts.. went inside and came out to a pool on the ground.
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post #11 of 26 Old 08-06-2019, 06:10 PM Thread Starter
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New tube of ultra black and anaerobic sealer ready to go.

Hope the leaks stop this time.
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post #12 of 26 Old 08-06-2019, 10:21 PM Thread Starter
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Welp.. not sure what the heck is going on this time.


Put everything together.. pulled the coil plug.. turned over the motor for a bit... started motor.. no oil pressure.


Things done different..


Anaerobic sealant applied
RTV applied in small holes
New oil filter
New oil


I don't think its possible to install the oil pump incorrectly as its keyed.


Possible bad oil filter? Oil sending unit decide to take a crap?


No noise at idle.. And I'm not about to rev up the engine either.
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post #13 of 26 Old 08-07-2019, 09:11 AM
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That's strange as hell. Have you gotten eyes on the sending unit? Sometimes they fail internally, report zero pressure, and leak oil out the plug... which can look kinda like an RMS leak...

Might be worthwhile to verify pressure with a mechanical gauge if you have access to one.

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post #14 of 26 Old 08-07-2019, 10:33 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by CatSplat View Post
That's strange as hell. Have you gotten eyes on the sending unit? Sometimes they fail internally, report zero pressure, and leak oil out the plug... which can look kinda like an RMS leak...

Might be worthwhile to verify pressure with a mechanical gauge if you have access to one.

Being that this switch is a "common" failure and I've gone 240,000 on this thing.. I'll just replace it.
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post #15 of 26 Old 08-07-2019, 10:46 AM
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FYI it can be a bit of a bear to change without the special extra-deep socket. You might be able to rent one from the parts place.

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