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post #1 of 8 Old 03-22-2018, 08:37 PM Thread Starter
DeCrepe
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1993 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Tacoma
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New Member - First Time Jeep Owner

So hey there everyone! Been a member of several automotive boards over the years - now finally adding Jeep to my list. Lol.

I picked up a 93 ZJ (Cherokee Laredo) back in Nov of '17 and have been loving it. Very easy to work on (better than BMW, Ford, and Mercedes for sure!), and fun to drive. Only 250k miles yo (was only $500... and I was in a pinch needing a vehicle.) To my knowledge the rig is stock.


Anyhow. I've already started rebuilding the dash cluster's electronics so they won't crap out again, had to replace the radiator from an accident before I acquired the rig, and replaced the alt. Now, it's started a fun little noise at times. Which may or may not have something to do with when I tried to use the 4wd for the first time here in the last snowfall we've had. When I use 4PT I can drive, but 4FT and 4LOW I have nothing (not even 2WD) and the sound of a little pump running while in gear. Along with a fun ringing sound at times (tranny/t-case maybe? Sounds almost like when you clip a gear driving a manual and it gives you that nice little ringing sound). Unless I'm actively moving I can pop it into 4FT and it might or might not continue propelling me. Other times I will lose propulsion and taking it out of 4FT into 4PT or 2WD will result in bad sounds from the transmission/t-case before going into 2WD again.


I'm thinking the driver's front bearings are going but am not quite sure. When it acts up, it makes an almost growling/spline grinding sound (imagine Groot saying "grrriiit, grriiit" - if that makes sence). At first I thought I had a part of the wheel well periodically flapping down and being rubbed on the tire - not the case. Sound initially went away when I removed the front drive shaft, but came back the other day on my way home while taking a right turning on ramp (loading the left bearings). It's first noticeable around 20-30MPH and will slowly increase in speed as the vehicle accelerates.

Any thoughts?

Looking forward to chatting with everyone, and hopefully getting some assistance in fixing things as they come up.


Thanks everyone!

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post #2 of 8 Old 03-22-2018, 10:59 PM
kg6mov
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Cupertino
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Yeah, sounds like the t-case is trashed. My next move would be to pull it before it damages itself further and takes something else out.

Noise sounds like bearing noise, pull the diff cover and have a look for damage. Worth it for new fluid anyway.


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1984 F250, 460 BB, T19, work truck/future tow pig
1987 Mercedes 300D Turbo, the diesel daily, 30mpg in style

Quote:
Originally Posted by Texas ZJ1 View Post
I heard someone yell "mall crawler" from the back porch. I'll go see who said that. Be right back.
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post #3 of 8 Old 03-23-2018, 01:08 PM Thread Starter
DeCrepe
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1993 ZJ 
 
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Location: Tacoma
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That's fun. Ok, I'll have to source a cost effective replacement t-case. This is my daily driver so I have to figure something out ASAP. Maybe pull the t-case apart and remove anything not needed for 2WD - assuming that other components aren't damaged already?

Yeah, I should probably do new fluid in both the front and back diffs. My current - and constant - hurdle being $$ of course. I also need to:
- finish the cooling system (cleaning from head gasket issues)
- vacuum lines replaced
- new front pads
- check the rear drums
- and look into the tranny itself (2nd to 3rd likes to waffle back and forth a couple times depending on throttle, high throttle usually results in staying in 2nd until over 3-3.5krmp then it will smoothly kick into 3rd and on into 4th)

I love the rig, it's just turning out to be more initial work than told about when purchased. Lol. I do have a pick -n- pull down the street, so getting parts is relatively easy. *le sigh* Alright, the fun begins some more it's a good thing I enjoy doing this. Anyone looking to buy a server or two to help fund my repairs? LMAO!

Thanks!
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post #4 of 8 Old 03-26-2018, 12:58 PM Thread Starter
DeCrepe
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Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Tacoma
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So from what I've read thus far I should basically be able to open up the t-case and pull the chain, make sure seals are good, nothing else rattling around, close her up, top off fluid, and go. Maintaining 2WD only until I can rebuild/replace the t-case.

Is this very rudimentary train of though correct?



And the bearing noise you would start in the diff, then if those are good check the hub. Not vise versa? Granted, I would assume diff fluid isn't super expensive, but I'm unfortunately running on a very tight budget for at least the next few months.


Thanks for all the input!
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post #5 of 8 Old 03-26-2018, 07:18 PM
kg6mov
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Yeah, you should be able to gut the t-case pretty easily and deal with it at a later date.

Do a shake test on the unit bearings, but what you’re describing sounds more like diff to me.


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1984 F250, 460 BB, T19, work truck/future tow pig
1987 Mercedes 300D Turbo, the diesel daily, 30mpg in style

Quote:
Originally Posted by Texas ZJ1 View Post
I heard someone yell "mall crawler" from the back porch. I'll go see who said that. Be right back.
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post #6 of 8 Old 03-31-2018, 03:08 PM Thread Starter
DeCrepe
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Location: Tacoma
Posts: 6
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From what I can gather, I have to actually pull the t-case to gut it?

Same with the inner shafts for the front? Say if I want to run on the short shafts until I can get a new axle or rebuild this one... Pull the wheels, hubs, etc. to get the shafts out of the axle tube?

Lastly (for now) - I'm trying to get my build sheet, but no matter what after clicking submit it just sits there saying "Loading..." where the submit button was. This continues non-stop. Tried calling their number on the contact page and they said it all has to be done through the email submission page. Couldn't provide me with an actual email to submit details to. Has anyone else used this recently? If so, and you wouldn't mind submitting my details I would be most gracious!

Thanks again!
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post #7 of 8 Old 04-02-2018, 08:46 AM
kg6mov
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Location: Cupertino
Posts: 15,992
Yeah, you’ll need/want to pull the t-case to gut it. At the very least it’ll be way easier.

For the inner shafts you just need to pull the unit bearing off the knuckle and then pull the u-joint. The stub shafts set the preload on the unit bearing, without them the bearing can (and will) eventually separate and let the wheel fall off.


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1984 F250, 460 BB, T19, work truck/future tow pig
1987 Mercedes 300D Turbo, the diesel daily, 30mpg in style

Quote:
Originally Posted by Texas ZJ1 View Post
I heard someone yell "mall crawler" from the back porch. I'll go see who said that. Be right back.
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post #8 of 8 Old 04-02-2018, 02:06 PM Thread Starter
DeCrepe
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Location: Tacoma
Posts: 6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kg6mov View Post
Yeah, youíll need/want to pull the t-case to gut it. At the very least itíll be way easier.
Aaarrg. Lol. That what I thought (I finally got my hands on the FSM). Ok - no garage, not even a proper paved driveway to work on. Looks like I may rent a shop for a day or see if my brother is able to pull the Nova from the garage to work on it there.

Quote:
Originally Posted by kg6mov View Post
For the inner shafts you just need to pull the unit bearing off the knuckle and then pull the u-joint. The stub shafts set the preload on the unit bearing, without them the bearing can (and will) eventually separate and let the wheel fall off.
Well, at least that's easier to do outside without much additional effort. That's what I imagined before looking through the FSM.

If this wasn't my DD I think I'd be more inclined to put the work into her, but I hate starting something with a very tight window to complete the project. Things tend to be accidentally overlooked or rushed as the clock comes to an end.


Fingers crossed and good thoughts please. Lol!
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