N6MZV Build Thread (By kg6mov) - Page 30 - JeepForum.com
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post #436 of 456 Old 10-15-2018, 02:02 PM
PolkaPower
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Puddles View Post
Whats you thoughts on the Ironman lower support vs the KOR model?
They aren't in the same league really. KOR is simple and it works but does not support the sector shaft on the gear.
Iron Man's is the most engineered and advanced that supports the gear and sector shaft plus gives you the option of running Curries Anti Rock.
Mountainvistafabrication.com also makes steering braces you should look at.

Imo, the sector shaft support is a good idea if you are rock crawling.

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post #437 of 456 Old 10-15-2018, 04:06 PM Thread Starter
kg6mov
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The ironman radiator support doesn’t do anything to the steering box.

The kor thing is a good piece of kit, if all you want is a bit more clearance and a solid recovery point, it’s a good option.

The ironman one has slightly better clearance (not that it’s usable), the main reason I did the ironman one is for the antirock. If I wasn’t going to run an antirock with the new axle, I would have stuck with KOR or made my own.


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1984 F250, 460 BB, T19, work truck/future tow pig
1987 Mercedes 300D Turbo, the diesel daily, 30mpg in style

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I heard someone yell "mall crawler" from the back porch. I'll go see who said that. Be right back.
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post #438 of 456 Old 10-15-2018, 04:20 PM
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Oops I was obviously on the wrong device.

Antirock has a bunch more body roll on the road than a normal swaybar.
I'd be nice if that rad support would fit Tera flex dual torsion bars...
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post #439 of 456 Old 10-15-2018, 05:57 PM
Mr. Puddles
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PolkaPower View Post
Antirock has a bunch more body roll on the road than a normal swaybar.

Then whats the advantage of that over stock?

Follow the build!

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The 4.0 is dumb old tractor motor, itís too stupid to know itís supposed to die.
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post #440 of 456 Old 10-15-2018, 06:07 PM Thread Starter
kg6mov
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It’s for offroad, instead of disconnecting the sway bar you have one designed to be used offroad, big difference in handling and traction.


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1984 F250, 460 BB, T19, work truck/future tow pig
1987 Mercedes 300D Turbo, the diesel daily, 30mpg in style

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I heard someone yell "mall crawler" from the back porch. I'll go see who said that. Be right back.
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post #441 of 456 Old 10-16-2018, 06:53 AM
Timo_90xj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Puddles View Post
Then whats the advantage of that over stock?
You don't really want fully disconnected swaybars when wheeling, it's best to have some sort of sway control. Currie anti-rock is an adjustable offroad swaybar. If you look at literally any high- dollar offroad vehicle, they all use sway bars front & rear.
Gives you way better axle travel control, better traction, allows you to optimize amount of travel.

The only downside is price.

1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX daily driver, 1.75" BB, 32" KM2s, HPD30 Eaton e-locker/D44a stock LSD, 4.56 gears, custom- fabbed tube bumpers and tube fenders,...


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1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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post #442 of 456 Old 02-17-2019, 02:12 AM Thread Starter
kg6mov
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Katie is making it known that she misses the a-pillar lights. Iíve got the relay box and new 15w pods already, even the switches and a box of different color wire. Found a cheap wireless transmitter to add as well.

A plan hatches, stay tuned.
ab5841b5-a19e-4f5a-986f-b9a0c31d75d3.jpg


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1984 F250, 460 BB, T19, work truck/future tow pig
1987 Mercedes 300D Turbo, the diesel daily, 30mpg in style

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I heard someone yell "mall crawler" from the back porch. I'll go see who said that. Be right back.
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post #443 of 456 Old 08-09-2019, 05:08 PM
variable
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Originally Posted by kg6mov View Post
It's installed, the IOU list is things that I've done to the jeep in the past 6 months that haven't been posted here.

Came out like this:
Attachment 2944402
Hey - sorry if you answered this somewhere else in the thread - was curious why you didn't use the screw terminals to connect the batteries together, or something along those lines. Was it a 'I might need to disconnect the two in a hurry' thing?

93 ZJ V8 5.2 - K&N FIPK, leaky exhaust
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post #444 of 456 Old 08-09-2019, 06:31 PM Thread Starter
kg6mov
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They just end up in a really inconvenient place with the way the ruffstuff tray is shoehorned in there. The intention is to be able to reconfigure for 24V mobile welding in the future, so ease of access is important.
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1984 F250, 460 BB, T19, work truck/future tow pig
1987 Mercedes 300D Turbo, the diesel daily, 30mpg in style

Quote:
Originally Posted by Texas ZJ1 View Post
I heard someone yell "mall crawler" from the back porch. I'll go see who said that. Be right back.
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post #445 of 456 Old 08-10-2019, 11:26 PM
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Originally Posted by kg6mov View Post
Not much, but something, new 8awg run from the battery through the firewall. This will become the new feed for everything in the back that is currently being fed off a tap on the factory amp.
Attachment 2987481
Attachment 2987489
Attachment 2987497
This might be a fairly dumb question but when you ran this new 8awg through the firewall did you just drill a new hole in your firewall?

I’m looking at installing a better stereo system in my 98ZJ and trying to find the best way to run power from the battery rear drivers side seat. Iv just been concerned about unintended consequences of drilling a hold in the firewall and if I do is there anything I should know first?
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post #446 of 456 Old 08-11-2019, 07:41 PM Thread Starter
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I used a factory wire grommet (the black rubber ring in the first pic) that goes through the firewall and added the 8awg. Tight squeeze but it worked out great. Should be one in the same place on a 98.


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1984 F250, 460 BB, T19, work truck/future tow pig
1987 Mercedes 300D Turbo, the diesel daily, 30mpg in style

Quote:
Originally Posted by Texas ZJ1 View Post
I heard someone yell "mall crawler" from the back porch. I'll go see who said that. Be right back.
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post #447 of 456 Old 08-11-2019, 09:01 PM
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Ah I’ll have to look a little harder. The tow hitch wiring kit I bought required a line be ran from the battery to the rear end. I ended up puncturing a hole in a rubber boot that was feeding more wiring through the firewall on the passenger side. Was a very annoying job none the less but got it done. I’ll have to look a little harder for the grommets your talking about for my next job of getting power to an amp for my sound system.
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post #448 of 456 Old 08-11-2019, 10:17 PM Thread Starter
kg6mov
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I keep a spray bottle of water with dish soap for encouraging cables through tight spaces. It helps a lot.

The dual 8awg I ran is about the biggest I think you could get through that grommet. We're gonna try some 10awg dual in k6rtm's 98 at some point. Probably get a single run of 6awg if you just wanted positive.


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1984 F250, 460 BB, T19, work truck/future tow pig
1987 Mercedes 300D Turbo, the diesel daily, 30mpg in style

Quote:
Originally Posted by Texas ZJ1 View Post
I heard someone yell "mall crawler" from the back porch. I'll go see who said that. Be right back.
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post #449 of 456 Old 08-12-2019, 03:08 PM
Spetie
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Right on I’m thinking about starting a built thread but not sure if I should call it a build thread or a repair thread lol. You were very helpful around this time last year in telling me to determine my life off the size of tires I wanted and I just yesterday picked up 4 JK 17in rims for 40$. Problem is I don’t have a lot of money to throw at any of this so for me it’s all about waiting for the right deal to come my way lol. That being said I should really reach out to Kolak and see if I can buy the 2.5 OME kit piece by piece lol. I can always come up with 100$ here and there but will never have 800-1000 to drop all at once.
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post #450 of 456 Old 08-13-2019, 01:39 PM
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Originally Posted by kg6mov View Post
They just end up in a really inconvenient place with the way the ruffstuff tray is shoehorned in there. The intention is to be able to reconfigure for 24V mobile welding in the future, so ease of access is important.
Totally didn't notice the cutouts for the side terminals - that could have ended badly! But good grief, you weren't kidding about shoehorning that sucker in there! Just when I thought I had it perfect, I realized there was no way I was going to be able to open the radiator cap... cut, measure, re-weld, face-palm, rinse repeat... had to compensate for it deforming a tad with the weight of a battery on it. OI!

93 ZJ V8 5.2 - K&N FIPK, leaky exhaust
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