N6MZV Build Thread (By kg6mov) - Page 29 - JeepForum.com
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post #421 of 456 Old 07-18-2018, 03:56 PM Thread Starter
kg6mov
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1996 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Cupertino
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Thanks! It’s been an adventure for sure. You’re local, you should join us for one of the norcal-jeeps runs.



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1984 F250, 460 BB, T19, work truck/future tow pig
1987 Mercedes 300D Turbo, the diesel daily, 30mpg in style

Quote:
Originally Posted by Texas ZJ1 View Post
I heard someone yell "mall crawler" from the back porch. I'll go see who said that. Be right back.
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post #422 of 456 Old 07-23-2018, 05:13 AM
jeepjeepster
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Its always made me a bit nervous changing out front seals/harmonic balancers.

How did the pin get pushed into the crank? It threads in doesn't it?

1994 ZJ-I6 w/270,000 mi
1998 ZJ 5.9 w/66,000 mi Slate Black
2004 KJ w/108,000 mi
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post #423 of 456 Old 07-23-2018, 12:40 PM Thread Starter
kg6mov
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Location: Cupertino
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The kit instructions said to use the non threaded centering pin to do the removal, and use the threaded version for the install.

Guess that’ll teach me to read instructions.


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1984 F250, 460 BB, T19, work truck/future tow pig
1987 Mercedes 300D Turbo, the diesel daily, 30mpg in style

Quote:
Originally Posted by Texas ZJ1 View Post
I heard someone yell "mall crawler" from the back porch. I'll go see who said that. Be right back.
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post #424 of 456 Old 07-31-2018, 07:38 PM Thread Starter
kg6mov
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1996 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Cupertino
Posts: 16,113
Got a call from FlyinRyan today, talked through what I'm running now, and what I'm planning.

Oh, and I got to tell him I've got an M1 4bbl on the way.

He'll be sending me tunes for the 5.9 with the 4bbl.

Can't wait.


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1984 F250, 460 BB, T19, work truck/future tow pig
1987 Mercedes 300D Turbo, the diesel daily, 30mpg in style

Quote:
Originally Posted by Texas ZJ1 View Post
I heard someone yell "mall crawler" from the back porch. I'll go see who said that. Be right back.
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post #425 of 456 Old 08-17-2018, 01:13 PM Thread Starter
kg6mov
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1996 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Cupertino
Posts: 16,113
In the name of freshening things up for the 5.9, assistant and I did a filter and o-ring kit on the fuel injectors.

Injector removal is pretty straight forward. Relieve pressure on the fuel rail, unbolt fuel rail, remove retention clip that retains the injector in the fuel rail, remove injector.

23 years on these injectors and they're definitely showing it.
injector-filters-1.jpg

Here's a close up of the fuel rail end of the injector. In the center is the filter, and you can see the degradation in the o-ring.
injector-filters-2.jpg

The intake side of the injector was a little bit better.
injector-filters-3.jpg

Some of the ebay sellers include a filter puller tool, but I didn't get one. A drywall screw works just fine, just thread it in and pull the filter out.

Old and busted vs new hotness
injector-filters-4.jpg

For pressing the new filters in, I found a c-clamp to be just right. You don't need to put a lot of pressure on them to press them in, but you do want to make sure they're fully seated. O-rings are pretty self explanatory. Reinstall everything and we're good to go. I wasn't expecting huge gains, and the 5.9 runs a bit odd on a 5.2 PCM, but idle smoothed out, and it feels like throttle response improved. I'm pretty happy.

Ebay filter kit I used: https://www.ebay.com/itm/V8-Dodge-Je...ts=Make%3AJeep


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1984 F250, 460 BB, T19, work truck/future tow pig
1987 Mercedes 300D Turbo, the diesel daily, 30mpg in style

Quote:
Originally Posted by Texas ZJ1 View Post
I heard someone yell "mall crawler" from the back porch. I'll go see who said that. Be right back.
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post #426 of 456 Old 08-17-2018, 01:28 PM
PolkaPower
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1998 ZJ 
 
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Location: The Abyss
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I used Vaseline on the o rings when re installing.

Sent from my BND-L24 using Tapatalk
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post #427 of 456 Old 08-17-2018, 07:00 PM
DirectMatrix
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1992 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Virginia Beach
Posts: 1,067
Quote:
Originally Posted by kg6mov View Post
In the name of freshening things up for the 5.9, assistant and I did a filter and o-ring kit on the fuel injectors.

Injector removal is pretty straight forward. Relieve pressure on the fuel rail, unbolt fuel rail, remove retention clip that retains the injector in the fuel rail, remove injector.

23 years on these injectors and they're definitely showing it.
Attachment 3760853

Here's a close up of the fuel rail end of the injector. In the center is the filter, and you can see the degradation in the o-ring.
Attachment 3760855

The intake side of the injector was a little bit better.
Attachment 3760857

Some of the ebay sellers include a filter puller tool, but I didn't get one. A drywall screw works just fine, just thread it in and pull the filter out.

Old and busted vs new hotness
Attachment 3760859

For pressing the new filters in, I found a c-clamp to be just right. You don't need to put a lot of pressure on them to press them in, but you do want to make sure they're fully seated. O-rings are pretty self explanatory. Reinstall everything and we're good to go. I wasn't expecting huge gains, and the 5.9 runs a bit odd on a 5.2 PCM, but idle smoothed out, and it feels like throttle response improved. I'm pretty happy.

Ebay filter kit I used: http://ebay.us/3RBsLq
Looks like a great kit. Can you repost the link? eBay doesn't like it.

Thanks
~DM

92 YJ, Delilah

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post #428 of 456 Old 08-18-2018, 06:00 AM
Bossman302
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Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: south central NJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PolkaPower View Post
I used Vaseline on the o rings when re installing.

Sent from my BND-L24 using Tapatalk
Be careful using Vaseline. Vaseline is a petroleum base product. It can affect certain types of rubber (O-Rings) and make them swell. you need to use a Silicone grease on O-Rings.
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post #429 of 456 Old 08-18-2018, 07:40 AM
ravenworks
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^^^THIS^^^

Semper-Fi "81-84"
I.U.O.E. - 18
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post #430 of 456 Old 08-18-2018, 11:05 AM Thread Starter
kg6mov
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Location: Cupertino
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Hmm, link updated, let me know if it's still broken.

I installed most of the injectors without needing anything to lube up the o-rings. For the few that gave me trouble I just ran a finger along the inside of the oil fill cap and transferred that to the o-ring, lightest coating possible.


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1984 F250, 460 BB, T19, work truck/future tow pig
1987 Mercedes 300D Turbo, the diesel daily, 30mpg in style

Quote:
Originally Posted by Texas ZJ1 View Post
I heard someone yell "mall crawler" from the back porch. I'll go see who said that. Be right back.
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post #431 of 456 Old 09-07-2018, 08:21 PM Thread Starter
kg6mov
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1996 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Cupertino
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tl;dr: **** axle side front uppers, currie ftw

A while back I installed poly bushings in the front axle for the upper control arms. I had the front end apart, I didnít want to have to mess with them again, I wasnít going to spend a bunch of money on a d30, etc.

Canít say I was happy with the results . . .
johnny-joints-01.jpg

So after swearing I wasnít going to do anything more to this d30, I needed to do something about this d30. The bushings had gotten so bad that I could get a nice wobble out of them at around 35mph over train tracks. Every other joint in my front end is either a better poly bushing, or a johnny joint.

Itís time for more johnny joints.

Currie sells a kit for our front axles, a machined johnny joint for the drivers side, and a flame cut bracket and johnny joint for the passenger side. Iíve been recommending this kit for a while, and had been looking forward to installing it on another jeep.

Removing the old bushings was easy, they fell out. I did have to beat out the sleeve on the drivers side. The CA had enough movement that it mushroomed the sleeve.
johnny-joints-02.jpg

Here we have old and busted vs new hotness.
johnny-joints-03.jpg

Currie includes a ďtoolĒ to press the driver side in, itís just a chunk of round stock with a hole to clear the ball center so youíre pushing on the body and not the internals. Balljoint press works great to get that seated.
johnny-joints-04.jpg

I contemplated a tack weld between the housing and the joint, but Iíll give it a chance to make me regret not doing that.

The stock bolts are a metric size, but currie ships 7/16Ē as ďstockĒ size hardware. They mention that you may need to enlarge the holes in your CAís to 7/16Ē, and I was a little surprised that I did have to do that to the core4x4 arms.
johnny-joints-05.jpg

On the passenger side the bushing and the sleeve fell out once the arm was removed. You donít even need to remove them, weíre cutting the bracket up anyway. The instructions talk about measuring 2.5Ē from the axle tube. I just marked on the bends in the bracket.
johnny-joints-06.jpg

Thought about the sawzall, grabbed the grinder instead for the cut. Once the stock bracket is cut up you can put in the new bracket section.
johnny-joints-07.jpg

I did my best to line it up where the stock bushing was located, but the currie bracket is a lot less direct fit than Iíd have liked. I got to the point where it was located close enough and burned it in. The real advantage here is that you donít need to weld to the axle tube at all (there isnít even a good place to if you wanted), just weld the stock bracket to the new one. No risk of warping the axle tube.
johnny-joints-08.jpg

Double checked the alignment (still garbage), greased and checked torque (still greasy, still torquey), and took it for a test drive (wheeeeeee).

Ok, yeah, I should have done this the first time around. Iím even considering it for the XJ, and itís 2wd.

Currie kit here: https://www.currieenterprises.com/CE-9102K
I didnít purchase it from currie, and it was a lot cheaper. They also have versions of the kit for the 2wd beam, and you can have stockish sized 7/16Ē hardware or upgrade to 1/2Ē.
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1984 F250, 460 BB, T19, work truck/future tow pig
1987 Mercedes 300D Turbo, the diesel daily, 30mpg in style

Quote:
Originally Posted by Texas ZJ1 View Post
I heard someone yell "mall crawler" from the back porch. I'll go see who said that. Be right back.
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post #432 of 456 Old 09-08-2018, 10:39 PM
Damien_
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1994 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 89
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bossman302 View Post
Be careful using Vaseline. Vaseline is a petroleum base product. It can affect certain types of rubber (O-Rings) and make them swell. you need to use a Silicone grease on O-Rings.
I have always used dipstick oil... or spit. No leaks yet but I have never had to remove one I installed, might be trouble coming...
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post #433 of 456 Old 09-09-2018, 07:04 AM
Luke95
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1997 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Harwinton
Posts: 5,957
Nice to see this is still going

97 XJ on 4Ds.
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post #434 of 456 Old 09-12-2018, 09:07 AM
LordHobbit
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Location: Utah
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Those currie mounts are great. I put them on my hpd30 when I upgraded and am very pleased.

93 red ZJ 196k 4.0. Spent more money than I should have ...
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post #435 of 456 Old 10-15-2018, 12:31 PM
Mr. Puddles
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1996 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Little Elm
Posts: 724
Garage
Whats you thoughts on the Ironman lower support vs the KOR model?

Follow the build!

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2002 Dakota aka Winnie aka Mad Max
1996 Grand Cherokee aka Puddles aka Pikey Life
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The 4.0 is dumb old tractor motor, itís too stupid to know itís supposed to die.
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