N6MZV Build Thread (By kg6mov) - Page 21 - JeepForum.com
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post #301 of 456 Old 07-06-2016, 03:52 PM Thread Starter
kg6mov
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1996 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Cupertino
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The little clips that came out were from the LSD clutch pack in the diff. Kolak hooked me up with a clutch pack rebuild kit from crown, and out comes the carrier!

With the cover removed and the diff oil drained you start by removing the retaining bolt for the cross pin (which lots of people seem to break, I had no issue). You then remove the cross pin and you can then press the axle shafts into the axle more and remove the c-clip. The shafts can then be removed. Remove the bearing caps, making sure they are marked for position and orientation (mine were already) and then remove the carrier.

The FSM says to use a case spreader, but I donít have one, and some have noted that this may not be a good plan on the aluminum housing of the d44a anyway. I drilled a piece of scrap to bolt to the face and act as a pivot to protect the housing and then it was just a matter of reassuring myself that yes youíre supposed to have to push that hard.
lsd-1.jpg

Note, when removing the c-clips with the axle out of the vehicle, it is probably a good idea to tip the pinion up so the clip canít fall into the pinion oil passage. It is a pita to get out when it gets lodged in there.
lsd-2.jpg

Carrier came out with minimal fuss, make sure you mark which side the races and shims came from!
lsd-3.jpg

Iím using a c-clamp to compress one of the clutch packs to remove pressure from the spider gears. FSM specifies a special tool for this, c-clamp works fine.
lsd-4.jpg

You can then use a ďfeeler gaugeĒ (machinists ruler) to push out the shim on the side of the spider gears.
lsd-5.jpg

Tap the spiders out and the clutch packs can be removed.
lsd-6.jpg

Few breaks, Iím guessing these are original, and we know the niner PO wasnít great about maintenance.
lsd-7.jpg

The clutches need to be presoaked in friction modifier to prevent them burning up first time out. I did this by dumping fluid in the cover and swirling them around with a screwdriver.
lsd-8.jpg
lsd-9.jpg



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1984 F250, 460 BB, T19, work truck/future tow pig
1987 Mercedes 300D Turbo, the diesel daily, 30mpg in style

Quote:
Originally Posted by Texas ZJ1 View Post
I heard someone yell "mall crawler" from the back porch. I'll go see who said that. Be right back.
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post #302 of 456 Old 07-06-2016, 03:55 PM Thread Starter
kg6mov
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1996 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Cupertino
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Time for reassembly. Pack the clutch pack onto the gear, I thought about trying to shove an extra in there to tighten things up, but I figured it would be fine just rebuilt. Itís not great offload, but itís better than nothing, and the (original, 200k+) LSD in the current axle was still limiting slip.
lsd-10.jpg

Set the clutch pack, gear, and clips into the carrier.
lsd-11.jpg

Once youíve got both clutch packs in you get to the hard part. The spider gears get reinstalled by turning the side gears. Unfortunately the side gears now have brand new clutch packs limiting their slip. The FSM calls for a forcing screw to be used in the center of the carrier compressing the clutch pack slightly to give the spiders clearance to get in. Of course this means you have to get the side gear to turn with the clutch pack slightly compressed. A long bolt and a few fender washers works fine as the forcing screw. The FSM says to use ďTurning Bar C-4487-4Ē which looked to me like an axle shaft spline on a stick. Iíve already got some axle shaft splines on a stick, theyíre called axle shafts. So I put the carrier in the vice, put the axle shaft in the top of the carrier, grabbed the little ladder and turned the shaft with a crow bar.
lsd-12.jpg

Which worked dandy. Remember to slide the spider gear shims in before you put the pin in (and I recommend you put the pin in once before you put the carrier back in the housing).
lsd-13.jpg

Carrier goes back in the housing with a few taps of a mallet. Installing the shafts is the same trick with the c-clips. I also redid the shaft seals, but couldnít be bothered to do the bearings.
lsd-14.jpg


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1984 F250, 460 BB, T19, work truck/future tow pig
1987 Mercedes 300D Turbo, the diesel daily, 30mpg in style

Quote:
Originally Posted by Texas ZJ1 View Post
I heard someone yell "mall crawler" from the back porch. I'll go see who said that. Be right back.
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post #303 of 456 Old 07-06-2016, 05:29 PM
MrRoundel
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1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: California
Posts: 2,455
Nice write-up, with very good pictures, kg6mov. I'm sure it's all going to work out perfectly, and come in handy for guys in the future. Cheers.
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post #304 of 456 Old 07-07-2016, 06:17 AM
Luke4010
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Location: Huntley
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This will be helpful when I rebuild the limited slip in my D44a. Thanks a bunch.
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post #305 of 456 Old 07-07-2016, 09:08 AM Thread Starter
kg6mov
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Thanks guys, glad it's helpful!


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1984 F250, 460 BB, T19, work truck/future tow pig
1987 Mercedes 300D Turbo, the diesel daily, 30mpg in style

Quote:
Originally Posted by Texas ZJ1 View Post
I heard someone yell "mall crawler" from the back porch. I'll go see who said that. Be right back.
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post #306 of 456 Old 07-07-2016, 02:15 PM
Luke95
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Bout that 44/9?

97 XJ on 4Ds.
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post #307 of 456 Old 07-07-2016, 02:32 PM Thread Starter
kg6mov
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Iíd had this rattling around in the back of my head for a while. I wanted to do a dual battery setup for all the electric crap I have so here goes.

I started with a dual group 34/78 Optima battery box from Ruffstuff. I also looked at Artec and a few other of the usual suspects but I liked the design of the Ruffstuff the best. One thing I was looking for was the smallest footprint possible as I knew this was going to be a shoehorn operation. I also really like Ruffstuff as a company, fantastic customer service and no bull products. When the battery mount showed up I was not disappointed, itís beefy.

I yanked the old battery tray out and removed (few screws) the vacuum reservoir from it. Also pulled out the mounting brackets for the PDC.

I had originally hoped to turn the PDC 90* and stuff one battery behind the other, but it was clear when I tried to test fit it that this was not happening without removing the AC parts. Iím not ready to delete the AC yet, and I donít want to mess with rebuilding the system out of universal/retrofit AC parts, so thatís a non-starter. I wasnít expecting them both to fit side by side, but the initial fit turned out better than I expected.
battery-mount-1.jpg

I intended to reuse the existing mounting bolts (at least as a starting point). I started by cutting a piece of 2Ē 1/8" flat bar to go from the bolt behind the headlight to the one that is closest to the engine. Cut it to rough length and then mark the cuts for proper fit.
battery-mount-2.jpg

It sits in the engine bay like this.
battery-mount-3.jpg

The underside of that section of the engine bay is actually accessible with all the trimming I did so I was able to stick a pencil through the captive nuts in the body panel to mark the holes for the bolts. I also drilled a hole in the battery tray so I could access the bolt nearest the engine.
battery-mount-4.jpg

Playing with positioning, getting things low enough while still being level took some fiddling. I cut a chunk of 1Ēx2Ē box tube to go from the flat bar plate to the box and tacked it in place.
battery-mount-5.jpg

The clearance to the belt tensioner is good, I broke the dipstick handle fiddling with the thing.
battery-mount-6.jpg

Cut another plate for the two bolts on the fender wall and tossed it in the jeep.
battery-mount-7.jpg

Then cut a chunk to bridge tie the mount in.
battery-mount-8.jpg


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1984 F250, 460 BB, T19, work truck/future tow pig
1987 Mercedes 300D Turbo, the diesel daily, 30mpg in style

Quote:
Originally Posted by Texas ZJ1 View Post
I heard someone yell "mall crawler" from the back porch. I'll go see who said that. Be right back.
kg6mov is online now  
post #308 of 456 Old 07-07-2016, 02:34 PM Thread Starter
kg6mov
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Welded in the side mount and reinforced it with a few gussets. I keep a box of these in the garage for this stuff and theyíre fantastic.
battery-mount-9.jpg
battery-mount-10.jpg

This is the main post from the lower bracket to the mount. Fully welded and with gussets.
battery-mount-11.jpg

Not bad overall.
battery-mount-12.jpg

Did a test fit with the battery and everything is sturdy. One note, the battery tray is beefy exactly where it needs to be and nothing more, which means that the battery is part of the structure. It was a little flex without the second battery in it, but once I got both in it was solid.
battery-mount-13.jpg

Now to remount the PDC. The PDC clips into a metal bracket that is riveted to a plastic bracket from the factory. The plastic bracket bolts to the fender well.
battery-mount-14.jpg

Drill out the rivets and the mount clip section comes off easy.
battery-mount-15.jpg

Another chunk of scrap plate bent into a 90 and rivet the PDC mount on. Bolt the mount back in and set the PDC position.
battery-mount-16.jpg
Mr. Puddles likes this.


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1984 F250, 460 BB, T19, work truck/future tow pig
1987 Mercedes 300D Turbo, the diesel daily, 30mpg in style

Quote:
Originally Posted by Texas ZJ1 View Post
I heard someone yell "mall crawler" from the back porch. I'll go see who said that. Be right back.
kg6mov is online now  
post #309 of 456 Old 07-07-2016, 02:37 PM Thread Starter
kg6mov
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Cupertino
Posts: 16,165
Now! This whole time you’ve been thinking this looks like a party, just a little fab, nothing big relocated.

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA

I wish.

The attentive reader (it could happen, I’m told people actually read these) will note that in all of the test fit pictures the coil is removed.

Because it’s in the damn way!

In the factory position right next to the belt tensioner the coil sticks out too far. There’s plenty of room in that area, it’s just not a good position for what I’m trying to do. So I made a relocation bracket. Start by tracing the existing one.
battery-mount-17.jpg

Then add in the new intended position. I want it a little higher (over the tensioner) and in more. Note, this isn’t the final version, I ended up moving the bolts for the coil down a touch because they interfered with the mounting bolts.
battery-mount-18.jpg

Cut it out with the grinder, drill the holes, bend it up in the vice and tack weld the metric nuts on the back for the coil. I kept the factory mounting bolts all around.
battery-mount-19.jpg

No issues with cable routing, no interference with anything else, if anything it’s more accessible.
battery-mount-20.jpg

Here’s everything bolted in for the first time. I’m using the old wiring for this photo as I hadn’t redone things for the new position.
battery-mount-21.jpg

Last touch was to install a properly sized hole for the battery temp sensor under the “main” battery.
battery-mount-22.jpg

And paint.
battery-mount-23.jpg

I got some of the good heat shrink and redid the cables that needed it for the new routing.
battery-mount-24.jpg

Everything is routed to the “main” battery on the passenger side. It’s setup that way to make it easy for me to swap the leads for the secondary around and get 24V for something like this: http://readywelder.com/ I didn’t have to convert to the military style terminals, I still like the marine ones better, but it made the wiring cleaner.
battery-mount-25.jpg

Final thoughts -

If I do it again I will push things closer to the fender to try and get away from the engine. I’ve got plenty of clearance as it is, but I think I could get a little bit better. Probably not enough to not need the coil bracket, but close. I would also try to get things just a bit lower. If the center of the mount were different and the two batteries were touching (or almost touching) instead of the inch or so they have between them with the current design it would work better, you could notch the fender tab for access to the tie down bolts and it would fit really well. If anybody has the tools to make something like that I’d be more than happy to design and prototype it. I’d also be interested in wether a 4.0 ZJ has fewer issues with clearance by virtue of being an inline engine.

Everything else is working out well. The horn got a new home under the battery mount and the vacuum reservoir got tossed near the AC drier.

Useful Pages and Links:
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/...g/OPT-WID.html - Battery box I used.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Military-Bat...-/331489555029 - Military terminals I used.


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1984 F250, 460 BB, T19, work truck/future tow pig
1987 Mercedes 300D Turbo, the diesel daily, 30mpg in style

Quote:
Originally Posted by Texas ZJ1 View Post
I heard someone yell "mall crawler" from the back porch. I'll go see who said that. Be right back.
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post #310 of 456 Old 07-07-2016, 10:34 PM
chakkuchan
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Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: South Bend
Posts: 340
I was actually just talking to a new neighbor, who is a professional welder/installer about doing a dual battery setup in my 4.0. I will be posting a build thread at end of summer. I already have two battery trays for my optima 34/78's and the two optima's, was going to install a second stock ZJ box to house all relays and fuses for all my extra lights and accessories. Here is a god awful paint edit after I went out into the rain to snap a pic of how I was proposing to set it up in my 4.0

1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0 "ATJT"
1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.9 "Darth Jeep"
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post #311 of 456 Old 07-07-2016, 10:56 PM Thread Starter
kg6mov
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Yeah, I think you're going to have problems with the bracing that is under the CC servo for the coil bucket, but I'm interested to see how it works out. Those AC lines on the 4.0 are sure a pisser, that looks worse than what I had to deal with with the coil.


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1984 F250, 460 BB, T19, work truck/future tow pig
1987 Mercedes 300D Turbo, the diesel daily, 30mpg in style

Quote:
Originally Posted by Texas ZJ1 View Post
I heard someone yell "mall crawler" from the back porch. I'll go see who said that. Be right back.
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post #312 of 456 Old 07-08-2016, 02:10 PM
chakkuchan
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Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: South Bend
Posts: 340
What is a CC servo?

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1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0 "ATJT"
1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.9 "Darth Jeep"
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post #313 of 456 Old 07-08-2016, 02:19 PM Thread Starter
kg6mov
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Luke95 View Post
Bout that 44/9?
They're still in the mix, waiting.

44 needs everything from the knuckles out and gears/locker, then brackets and links.

9" needs shafts out (w/ disc brakes) and then brackets and links.

And I really want to get the frame plated first, and do the t-case (231 doubler on a d300) at the same time so I only have to do new shafts once.

So it's a process. 5.9 and 46re should be first, since the 5.2 gets smogged in october and I want to smog it then rip it out.


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1984 F250, 460 BB, T19, work truck/future tow pig
1987 Mercedes 300D Turbo, the diesel daily, 30mpg in style

Quote:
Originally Posted by Texas ZJ1 View Post
I heard someone yell "mall crawler" from the back porch. I'll go see who said that. Be right back.
kg6mov is online now  
post #314 of 456 Old 07-08-2016, 02:22 PM Thread Starter
kg6mov
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chakkuchan View Post
What is a CC servo?

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Cruise control servo. There's a pretty significant brace going from the frame to the fender for the coil bucket that runs right under it.


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1984 F250, 460 BB, T19, work truck/future tow pig
1987 Mercedes 300D Turbo, the diesel daily, 30mpg in style

Quote:
Originally Posted by Texas ZJ1 View Post
I heard someone yell "mall crawler" from the back porch. I'll go see who said that. Be right back.
kg6mov is online now  
post #315 of 456 Old 07-08-2016, 04:00 PM
chakkuchan
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Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: South Bend
Posts: 340
Oh I gutted all that already, cruise control didn't work, then I replaced stock steering wheel with an NRG so I took that bracket and AC stuff out, going to install dual battery,dual fuse panel, dual compressor (AC and air) then see if I have room for an aftermarket cruise control system

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1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0 "ATJT"
1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.9 "Darth Jeep"
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