N6MZV Build Thread (By kg6mov) - Page 13 - JeepForum.com
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post #181 of 456 Old 06-28-2014, 04:41 PM Thread Starter
kg6mov
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1996 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Cupertino
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I found out kind of last minute that I was going to be hauling quite a bit of gear with the jeep and would need to toss one of our roof cargo boxes on top. My stock crossbars have been DOA for a while now, something about putting 10 10’ sections of 2” steel pipe on them. I’ve been thinking about building some new roof storage for a while now and figured it was as good a time as any to start building. Between a business trip and some other things going on at the same time I ended up with about two days to actually work on this and prep the jeep for the trip so some of it was a bit rushed.

The crossbars are 1x1 box tube 1/16 thick; my metal supplier had something like 100 4’ sections from a cut job that they were selling off as REM at cost. The mounts are based on the mounts for the KOR roof racks and light bars. They clamp onto the stock rails quite well. I’m considering replacing the stock rails for a roof basket build but I may change that to keep the ability to use the crossbars. The mounts are made of a section of 1.5” wide 1/8” thick c-channel with a 2” wide 1/8” thick c-channel section on top of it. I found plenty of 1.5” channel on REM and bought a 3’ section of the 2”. The KOR mounts use 4” long sections for each mount point, I used 3” sections to keep things small. The 2” c-channel must be trimmed on one side to level the mount. I found 1/2” from the flat side of the channel to be about right. I marked and taped out each cut then tossed them in the vise and went to work with the cutoff wheel then brought them into spec with the grinder.
crossbars-1.jpg

For two bars I’ve got 4 mount points total; here they are all cut to size.
crossbars-2.jpg

Each piece of channel gets two bolt holes down the centerline, 1/2” from each end. I used 5/16-18 bolts; the final version got socket cap head bolts but I mocked with what I had. Here is a mount on the roof rail.
crossbars-3.jpg

I cut my crossbars to be 45” long, which gives two inches on each end extending past the mount. I used the notches for the stock bars as guides and lined up the mounts then laid the crossbar across and aligned it.
crossbars-4.jpg

The mounts are just barely off level by themselves. To compensate while I tacked the crossbars on I tossed a random heavy object on the bar. I double checked square and centering and put a tack at each corner of the mount to crossbar contact.
crossbars-5.jpg

Once the bars were tacked I cleaned them up a little more and put down real beads along the crossbar length. I didn’t bother with the other direction as it was plenty strong with the two welds.
crossbars-6.jpg

All welded and prepped for paint.
crossbars-7.jpg

I hung the bars and lower bracket parts up from the rafters and gave them a coat of self etching primer, then two coats of flat black. Because my drilling wasn’t perfect there was a slight variance in the mounts. I labeled each mount pair to keep them together during final assembly.
crossbars-8.jpg

Here are the new bars in place on the roof (sorry for the nighttime pic, it was late and I was flying out in the morning).
crossbars-9.jpg

Close up of the final bars mounted; the bolts are 1.5” 5/16-18, which is a little short to engage the nylocks completely. I ordered 1.75” 5/16-18 socket caps for the final version; the round head should also help with misalignment. KOR uses 2” carriage bolts coming up from the bottom for some reason.
crossbars-10.jpg

We messed around with the rack once it was up and it’s beefy. Zero flex or give in any direction even when I stand on the bars. They are also significantly lower profile than the originals and could be even lower profile for a roof basket. Overall the whole thing cost me about $20 in metal with plenty left over (I got 4 crossbar sections). If I thought I was going to be hauling plywood up top like I did at my previous job I would have left the crossbars a full 4’, but I like the shorter profile. It wouldn’t be hard to build quick extensions for the bars to make them 48” again.

Useful Pages and Links:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#91251a589/=six0an - bolts I used (not pictured)
https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/h...8/#post5038924 - thread discussing this mount style
https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/l...8/#post5212460 - KOR bar that originated the mounting system
http://thespeedfreaks.net/showthread...nted-light-bar - pics of KOR bar



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1984 F250, 460 BB, T19, work truck/future tow pig
1987 Mercedes 300D Turbo, the diesel daily, 30mpg in style

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I heard someone yell "mall crawler" from the back porch. I'll go see who said that. Be right back.
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post #182 of 456 Old 06-29-2014, 12:05 AM Thread Starter
kg6mov
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1996 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Cupertino
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After waiting a few months for it to be back in stock Radiator Express finally shipped me my new radiator. Overall the customer service was excellent given the circumstances. Once they actually had one to ship I had it next day.

And just
alu-rad-1.jpg

Look
alu-rad-2.jpg

At
alu-rad-3.jpg

It
alu-rad-4.jpg

Seriously
alu-rad-5.jpg

Usual fitment issues that I will blame on my front end damage but once it was installed the top mount went on fine. The studs on the top of the radiator that the isolators bolt into are aluminum and will therefore break if you tighten them down too much like I did. 3 out of 4 ain’t bad and I couldn’t be bothered. The hose fitment is great and the tranny lines seal fine. I had no problem with the hoses leaking like on the previous radiator. Cooling seems to be a little better than the nissens I was running.

Useful Pages and Links:
https://www.radiatorexpress.com/prod...aia_id=1315953 - radiator I used


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1984 F250, 460 BB, T19, work truck/future tow pig
1987 Mercedes 300D Turbo, the diesel daily, 30mpg in style

Quote:
Originally Posted by Texas ZJ1 View Post
I heard someone yell "mall crawler" from the back porch. I'll go see who said that. Be right back.
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post #183 of 456 Old 06-29-2014, 04:09 AM
MTBlue
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1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Helena
Posts: 1,513
My radiator developed a nasty leak right before I left... This may just be the first thing to go in when I come back stateside in December... Keep us updated on how well it works out for you!

Dirt Deprived
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post #184 of 456 Old 06-30-2014, 07:05 AM
Myusername1674
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That things beautiful! I may try and get one of those with my engine swap.


Sent from somewhere besides my computer

95 FiveTwo ZJ, DD, Lifted, Locked on 35s,
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post #185 of 456 Old 06-30-2014, 03:04 PM
bskool
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Join Date: May 2014
Location: Lakevile
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Nice crossbars, I love square tube steel. It is so handy, I built a whole roof basket out of 3/4 and I can stand on it with almost no flex
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post #186 of 456 Old 07-04-2014, 01:52 PM Thread Starter
kg6mov
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1996 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Cupertino
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So this is a bit out of order, after the engine mods but before the trans pan I actually stopped taking it apart long enough to go wheelin.

Cooking hot dogs on the intake manifold, worked really well.
wheeling-cow-1.jpg

Jeep did really well, a little spotting, a little skinny pedal, made the xj in front of me feel real silly for taking cable on the easy stuff.
wheeling-cow-2.jpg
wheeling-cow-3.jpg


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1984 F250, 460 BB, T19, work truck/future tow pig
1987 Mercedes 300D Turbo, the diesel daily, 30mpg in style

Quote:
Originally Posted by Texas ZJ1 View Post
I heard someone yell "mall crawler" from the back porch. I'll go see who said that. Be right back.
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post #187 of 456 Old 07-04-2014, 02:22 PM Thread Starter
kg6mov
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Cupertino
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Digging through pictures. On the road back from a scouting trip in the mountains we hear a flapping noise coming from the rear of the jeep. I listen for a moment decide it's a new noise and tell my co-driver to pull over. As soon as he puts the turn signal on this idiot in a honda pulls up next to us and starts gesturing wildly, and WON'T MOVE OUT THE ****ING WAY. Some people.

Turns out the rear bumper cover had come off on one side and was being held on by my antenna mount, so I pulled it off the rest of the way and tossed it in the back. Got home and thought about putting it back, but nah, must be time for a real bumper. Didn't have time or steel though so rattle can black it is.
rear-trim3.jpg

I actually like the look of the stock metal bumper thing, I may try to emulate it with my new bumper when I get around to it. After a few days I decided to trim the side sections, I'll need plenty of rear trim for my new tires once I get there anyway.
rear-trim2.jpg

Little cutting disc, little angle grinder, little sledge hammer, big sledge hammer, looks much nicer.
rear-trim1.jpg


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1984 F250, 460 BB, T19, work truck/future tow pig
1987 Mercedes 300D Turbo, the diesel daily, 30mpg in style

Quote:
Originally Posted by Texas ZJ1 View Post
I heard someone yell "mall crawler" from the back porch. I'll go see who said that. Be right back.
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post #188 of 456 Old 07-05-2014, 01:52 PM Thread Starter
kg6mov
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Cupertino
Posts: 15,891
Getting around to some little things I've been meaning to do. I'm kinda tired of having the microphone cables for the radios hanging down from the control heads that are mounted on the overhead console. Both radios also have mic ports on the radio body in addition to the ones on the control head so I figured I'd come up with something. The microphones both use 8 conductor RJ45 connectors which is the same as ethernet. I've got some ethernet patch stuff lying around the house.

I grabbed two passthrough adapters off a patch panel and some cable out of the bin. Marked the mounting position of the passthrough adapters.
mics-1.jpg

Rough cut with a dremel and cleaned it up with a razor blade. Ran cables under the carpet along the trans tunnel.
mics-2.jpg

White cable goes up to the driver side rear window where the IC-7000 and antenna tuner are mounted. Plugs right into the back of the radio.
mics-3.jpg

Much cleaner now and the mics have a better place to sit when not in use. I may add hangers to the dash for them.
mics-4.jpg

I also took apart the lid of the center console, the latch mechanism now works for the first time in probably a decade.


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1984 F250, 460 BB, T19, work truck/future tow pig
1987 Mercedes 300D Turbo, the diesel daily, 30mpg in style

Quote:
Originally Posted by Texas ZJ1 View Post
I heard someone yell "mall crawler" from the back porch. I'll go see who said that. Be right back.
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post #189 of 456 Old 07-05-2014, 07:33 PM Thread Starter
kg6mov
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Location: Cupertino
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I feel like I'm missing something in this build. What could it be? Hmmmmmmm.

OH RIGHT AXLES.

axle-teaser-1.jpg
axle-teaser-2.jpg
axle-teaser-3.jpg

A friend found a 76 ford HP44 complete with the radius arm mounts already cut off, and a 9" housing, and a new, never installed, currie built, 9" third member with 4.88's and an ARB. Much fun will be coming.


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1984 F250, 460 BB, T19, work truck/future tow pig
1987 Mercedes 300D Turbo, the diesel daily, 30mpg in style

Quote:
Originally Posted by Texas ZJ1 View Post
I heard someone yell "mall crawler" from the back porch. I'll go see who said that. Be right back.
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post #190 of 456 Old 07-05-2014, 07:34 PM
Bob_Gervais
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1996 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Charlestown
Posts: 104
Quote:
Originally Posted by kg6mov View Post
Once the oil pump is removed the rear main bearing cap looks like this.
Attachment 1411417

Remove the bolts and tap the cap with a mallet to remove it. The rear main seal is a two part seal with one half in the cap and the other in a grove above the crankshaft.
Attachment 1411425

You can see the ends of the seal in that picture, they are the brown rubber towards the top of the image. Here is the section of old seal in the bearing cap.
Attachment 1411433

Overall the seal is better condition than I expected given the amount of oil in the bell housing.
Attachment 1411441

I used a center punch to push the old seal around the shaft enough to grab the end with a pair of pliers. Be very careful when doing this to not mar the surface of the shaft or the block.
Attachment 1411449

The new lower seal gets placed in the bearing cap. The instructions on the fel-pro bag suggested misaligning the bearing cap break with the lower/upper seal break like this.
Attachment 1411457

The FSM doesn’t mention that misalignment but the theory makes sense to me so I installed it that way. Pay close attention to the orientation on the new seals or they will fail prematurely. Lightly oil the new upper seal before sliding it in and be careful not to damage it while sliding it around the crankshaft.
Attachment 1411465

The FSM states that loctite 518 should be used to seal between the bearing cap and the block. I didn’t want to risk it so I went out and purchased some. Once the bearing cap is on and torqued down you can reinstall the pump and the oil pan. If you are installing a new pump it is recommended that you prime it with oil before installing. I grabbed a allen wrench and filled the bottom of the new pan with fresh oil to do this.
Attachment 1411473

Installing the pan is basically the removal procedure in reverse. The FSM suggests using alignment dowels to get the pan and gasket in place, but I found these unnecessary. I was able to place the gasket on the pan and then lift it up to the block one put in the bolts. Torque to spec and reinstall the track bar, drag link, bell housing cover, starter, and exhaust.

Useful Pages and Links:
http://mallcrawlin.com/forum/showthr...mp-Replacement - another good writeup (pics go missing sometimes)
Thank you so much for documenting this so well! Our new-to-us 96 has some oil leaks, one of which I think may be the rear main seal. I was planning on having to remove the trans to do it, nice to know I don't have to do that!
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post #191 of 456 Old 07-05-2014, 07:44 PM Thread Starter
kg6mov
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1996 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Cupertino
Posts: 15,891
Happy to help! I try to create the writeup I wished I'd had whenever I work on this pig so the next person doesn't have beat their head against the wall as much.


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1984 F250, 460 BB, T19, work truck/future tow pig
1987 Mercedes 300D Turbo, the diesel daily, 30mpg in style

Quote:
Originally Posted by Texas ZJ1 View Post
I heard someone yell "mall crawler" from the back porch. I'll go see who said that. Be right back.
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post #192 of 456 Old 07-05-2014, 08:01 PM
Bob_Gervais
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1996 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Charlestown
Posts: 104
Well, it's working! I didn't beat my head once.

I wish more people on different forums would do write ups like this. I'm about to be knee-deep in the rustoration (yes, that's spelled correctly) of my 95 F150. Tons of conflicting information on common issues... frustrating!
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post #193 of 456 Old 07-06-2014, 07:49 AM
Myusername1674
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kg6mov View Post
I feel like I'm missing something in this build. What could it be? Hmmmmmmm.

OH RIGHT AXLES.

A friend found a 76 ford HP44 complete with the radius arm mounts already cut off, and a 9" housing, and a new, never installed, currie built, 9" third member with 4.88's and an ARB. Much fun will be coming.
This looks to fun! Kinda jealous hahah

Sent from somewhere besides my computer

95 FiveTwo ZJ, DD, Lifted, Locked on 35s,
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post #194 of 456 Old 07-08-2014, 03:58 PM Thread Starter
kg6mov
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Water Pump and Radiator

[This got written but not posted earlier.]

With the rest of my cooling system upgrades while the coolant was drained I thought it was about time to do the radiator and water pump. The radiator has had a slow leak for a while, and whenever I remove the lower radiator mount it is full of coolant. With the accessory bracket removed there isn’t going to be a better time to replace the water pump.

I chose a bosch water pump from summit racing, seemed to be a good reliable company and is new, not reman. I shopped around for a radiator for a while. Originally I tried to purchase an all aluminum radiator from radiatorexpress.com but they were backordered when I ordered in March, and didn’t get the parts in until June. I ended up purchasing a nissens two row radiator from rockauto.com in the interim though I plan to do the all aluminum radiator at some point.

Water Pump
The water pump is the simplest part of this process. With the accessory bracket, fan, and hoses removed the pump is held in by 7 bolts. Note that at least two of the longer bolts are threaded into the water jacket of the engine and will drip coolant when removed if you haven’t drained the block. There is no reason to drain the block for this repair but it is something to be aware of. Be warned that my engine is far from clean. Here is my old pump with the bolts removed; you can see coolant leaking from one of the bolt holes.
cooling-1.jpg

The hardline from the pump to the heater core is held in place by a valve cover bolt; remove that and you can pull the hardline out. It is sealed by a small o-ring. On my niner there was also silicone sealant of some kind, probably from my mechanic. The gasket on my pump had pretty well disintegrated and was holding the pump on like glue, but removal was easy once it broke free. The pump is mounted to the timing cover and coolant is circulated through the area between the pump and the cover. I had a recommendation to do the timing chain and cover at this point since my engine was torn down this far, but I’m not expecting to be needing this engine more than another year so I let it be. This is the cover with the pump removed.
cooling-2.jpg

A lot of my pump gasket stayed on the cover and needed to be removed with a razor blade. I also tried my best to clean out any evaporated residue in the pumping mounting surface with brake cleaner.
cooling-3.jpg

My new pump mounted up without any problems. The pump includes a paper/cardboard gasket and I was unable to find anyone selling better gaskets individually. The pump also includes a new o-ring for the heater hardline. This was loose in the bottom of the box and very easy to miss, but is very important to the correct sealing of the hardline. I haven’t mounted the hardline yet in this picture, but the pump is torqued to spec.
cooling-4.jpg

The hardline got installed after I finished my intake work and valve covers. It is easiest to install it after the accessory bracket it bolts to is installed. I put the new o-ring on the end with a touch of lube; a few taps on the hardline with a mallet seated it in the pump just fine.

Radiator
The radiator install more than made up for the uneventful time I had doing the water pump. With the coolant hoses disconnected you can remove the hardlines for the in radiator trans cooler. You will get a little bit of of ATF leak when you do this but not much. REMEMBER TO TOP OFF THE TRANSMISSION when you are done with this repair. Running without enough ATF can cook a trans. Once everything is disconnected from the radiator you can remove the two nuts that connect the radiator to the upper mount plate. The mounting plate is held to the body with four bolts, two of which are under the hood seal. It is also connected to the front crossmember by two triangular supports that serve as the aux trans cooler mounts. With the upper radiator mount removed (place it to the side unless you want to remove the hood cable) you can remove the two screws holding the AC condenser to the radiator and then the radiator can be lifted out. It may be a tight fit around the power steering box. The picture above shows the radiator removed.

At this point you can begin prepping your new radiator for installation. You will need the cap off the old one if you didn’t purchase a new cap and you will also need the metal clips that the AC condenser bolts to. The top rubber isolators that bolt to the upper mount get removed and transferred as well. I have an extra step because I have the KOR lower radiator mount and recovery points. It is shallower than the stock mount and requires the bottom pegs of the radiator be shortened. Easy to do on the bench with a handsaw, a careful eye will note that this is not the nissens radiator.
cooling-5.jpg

With the pegs shortened I dropped the radiator into position to test fit. The pegs go through the lower brackets for the AC condenser and into the lower mount. Then the upper mount isolators bolt onto studs at the top of the radiator. The upper mount can then be placed over the radiator and bolted back into the body. Or that’s how it’s supposed to work. When I placed the upper mount on the radiator it was much too high to attach to the body correctly. I Checked the radiator measurement and the new radiator is about a 1/4 inch taller at the tank to core seams (tallest part) than the old one. This looks to be in spec based on measurements I took of the niner, but with my front end damage and the KOR lower mount it wasn’t going to work. The KOR lower mount appears to lift the radiator just slightly compared to the stock one, not significant in most cases but just a little. I tried purchasing another radiator off of summit, but it was also just barely too tall to fit without binding.

One of the things preventing the upper mount from seating correctly was the length of the isolator mount studs. On my original radiator these studs were part of the structure of the radiator core. Both of the new radiators had the studs on metal clips that attach to the top of the radiator core. At their original length the studs were extending past the nuts and hitting the upper mount plate. The dremel with a cut-off disc made quick work of that.
cooling-7.jpg

Grinding the studs alone wasn’t enough to get me back to flush. I used a piece of 2X3 1/4 box tube and my trusty persuader to improve the position of the lower mount.
cooling-8.jpg

I also took this opportunity to get a little more of the front crossmember back to straight.
cooling-9.jpg

With the modifications to the upper isolators and lower mount the radiator finally bolted into place. It was a tight fit, but it works. Someday I will have to deal with the damage to the front end but today is not that day. Hoses connect right up, Nissens even provides adapters for the trans cooler lines to accommodate differences in cooling systems. The stock trans cooler line on my 96 goes from a pipe thread hardline with a check valve, to a short piece of crimped pressure hose, to a special disconnect, to another hardline. On the 98’s this entire assembly is simply a check valve with a barb end for pressure hose and that hose goes directly to the radiator. I figured it would be easy to add a trans fluid temp gauge to the 98 style 3/8 hose and it also deletes the crappy leaky quick disconnect. I found the check valve on a 98 ZJ in the yard and got some hose at o’reilly. Here’s a picture of the difference.
cooling-6.jpg

Once everything was installed I filled up coolant and burped the system. Idle the engine in neutral to warm up the transmission; once the transmission warms up fluid will flow through the new radiator and you can check the fluid level and fill it through the transmission dipstick tube. Expect to get occasional burps in the system for a few days afterwards; I usually keep a jug of coolant with me and top off as I go. Overall the system works very well now between the new water pump and radiator and the efan upgrade.

Useful Pages and Links
https://www.radiatorexpress.com/prod...aia_id=1182192 - radiator express all aluminum radiator
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...748&cc=1182192 - nissens radiator
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/bch-98170/ - bosch water pump


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1984 F250, 460 BB, T19, work truck/future tow pig
1987 Mercedes 300D Turbo, the diesel daily, 30mpg in style

Quote:
Originally Posted by Texas ZJ1 View Post
I heard someone yell "mall crawler" from the back porch. I'll go see who said that. Be right back.
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post #195 of 456 Old 07-08-2014, 05:17 PM
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Nice man, that water pump part is pretty helpful for sure, good work!

95 FiveTwo ZJ, DD, Lifted, Locked on 35s,
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