Jeep zj Alternator upgrade help!! - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 18 Old 07-09-2020, 12:05 PM Thread Starter
cougmyster
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Jeep zj Alternator upgrade help!!

So I have a 1993 Jeep zj with the 5.2 in it and am going to get a amp installed next week, so in preparation for that I purchased a 136 amp alternator (Stock one was 90 amp). I went to install it and everything was going smoothly but when I went to install the black box to the two little posts on the alternator (not sure what the black box is called :/) it would go on the eyelet holes but would not fully sit flush with the back of the alternator, so I went ahead and put back on the 90 amp because it didnt seem right for it to sit cockeyed on the posts. I ordered a alternator for a 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee but read everywhere that all the alternators were interchangeable between the years. Any pointers would help because I dont wanna mess up the black box because it seems important.
Sorry for my lack of knowledge but i'm new to working on stuff on my jeep, Thanks in advance!

part number for new alt. ( ACDELCO 3351185 )

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post #2 of 18 Old 07-09-2020, 01:33 PM
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Glad to see you're getting into doing your own work! It'll save you a lot of money down the road. As for your alternator, from my understanding, the OEM ones are the same from 1993-1998 for the 5.2 (might be wrong). That isn't necessarily the case for aftermarket ones. The specific one you ordered says it is only made for 1997-1998. It should work just fine, but you might have some small fitment issues like you described. You can either use the one you bought and ignore the weird fitting on the posts, or order one that will specifically fit your 93. It's not going to affect the alternator's ability to function.

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post #3 of 18 Old 07-09-2020, 02:32 PM Thread Starter
cougmyster
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Would the black box being slightly cockeyed give me problems or as long as both of the eyelets are making good connection to the posts? just trying to make sure before I go ahead with the installation, thank you btw!
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post #4 of 18 Old 07-09-2020, 05:03 PM
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Originally Posted by cougmyster View Post
Would the black box being slightly cockeyed give me problems or as long as both of the eyelets are making good connection to the posts? just trying to make sure before I go ahead with the installation, thank you btw!
If it has a good connection to the posts and is secured it will work fine. Post a photo of it hooked up.

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post #5 of 18 Old 07-09-2020, 10:30 PM
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The black rubbery/ plastic box has absolutely nothing inside it, so feel free to trim it or cut off. It is there to keep the wires in correct orientation.

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post #6 of 18 Old 07-10-2020, 04:45 AM
V8GCZJ
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In the pic one of the nuts is missing, There needs to be two nuts and you should check if the top of the nut is level with the outer housing. Also when changing the amp output you need to put a larger amp fuse in the engine compartment box.
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post #7 of 18 Old 07-10-2020, 05:03 AM
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Originally Posted by V8GCZJ View Post
Also when changing the amp output you need to put a larger amp fuse in the engine compartment box.
There is no fuse for the alternator in PDC, and alternator field excitation ( = alternator output) is controlled by the PCM and it is not directly fused.
I'm not sure if the original power feed cable from alternator to PDC/ battery has a fusible link in it or not. edit: Checked the FSM, cable has a fusible link in it, but it's not replaceable.

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1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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post #8 of 18 Old 07-10-2020, 11:43 AM
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I've often wondered about the fusible link. Does the FSM say if its sized for the alternator or if its just a one size fits all? Since the 5.9 has a 150amp alternator, I wonder if it has a unique fusible link?

You never hear of people putting a fusible link anywhere when they do the 'big 3' or whatever for mo power. I once replaced the grounds and positive cables on an old grand wagoneer and wondered if I should put an inline fuse from the alternator and from the battery... Never did and its gone now, so dont need to worry with it.

1994 ZJ-I6 w/270,000 mi
1998 ZJ 5.9 w/66,000 mi Slate Black
2004 KJ w/108,000 mi
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post #9 of 18 Old 07-10-2020, 12:16 PM Thread Starter
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so I went ahead with yall's advice and put on the alternator this morning, and with that said it went smooth and my ZJ is charging like a champ! I appreciate everyone input. With the black box I put it on there as far as it would go and put a minuscule amount of blue lock tight on the small nuts so they wouldn't have a change of moving at all. Stays just a hair below 14 volts now and I cannot be happier for my 4 channel amp this next week, gotta have good tunes out on the trails.
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post #10 of 18 Old 07-10-2020, 12:22 PM Thread Starter
cougmyster
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepjeepster View Post
I've often wondered about the fusible link. Does the FSM say if its sized for the alternator or if its just a one size fits all? Since the 5.9 has a 150amp alternator, I wonder if it has a unique fusible link?

You never hear of people putting a fusible link anywhere when they do the 'big 3' or whatever for mo power. I once replaced the grounds and positive cables on an old grand wagoneer and wondered if I should put an inline fuse from the alternator and from the battery... Never did and its gone now, so dont need to worry with it.
Actually I am going to put something like the big 3 power upgrade on my jeep when I take it in to the audio shop, the kit i bought for my jeep was from KSuspensionfab and its a little more involved than the usual big 3 but is definitely high quality, I recommend this guy he is really nice and has pretty fair prices for what he sells. Ive been thinking about getting some 4 hole injectors from him but are they really worth the upgrade from the stock ones, idk
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post #11 of 18 Old 07-10-2020, 01:41 PM
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According to anybody who has done real dyno testing with different injectors, no, the 4 hole are not an upgrade.

Digging in my parts books, there's no separate part number for the fusible link or alternator harness based on amperage. This would imply that they used the same rating of link for all alts. Not definitive of course, as the parts book also lists things like 97 ZJ with 5.9l and 44re, /hides.

All of our jeeps (and even the mazda) have battery/alt cables made by me, no fusible links in sight.


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post #12 of 18 Old 07-10-2020, 04:00 PM
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I'd guess that's because the fusible link is based on the wire size not the alternator size. Typically just a section 4 wire sizes smaller than the wire it is protecting. (I remembered it as 2 but the internet says 4). IMS fusible links are a cost saving measure.
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post #13 of 18 Old 07-11-2020, 09:49 AM
V8GCZJ
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96 and up has the fuse witch i was referring to, Didn't notice you had a 93. The fuse amp rating is different depending on the output of the alternator. You may want to dig more into this for a 93 with the fusible link.

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post #14 of 18 Old 07-11-2020, 12:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by V8GCZJ View Post
96 and up has the fuse witch i was referring to, Didn't notice you had a 93. The fuse amp rating is different depending on the output of the alternator. You may want to dig more into this for a 93 with the fusible link.
My '98 does not have a fuse in the PDC feed terminals, nor is it mentioned in the FSM at all. Same for the '94 FSM if I'm not mistaken ('93-'95 FSM wiring diagrams are drawn by a group of idiots, it is such a mess ).




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1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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post #15 of 18 Old 07-12-2020, 06:41 AM
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Quote:
wiring diagrams are drawn by a group of idiots, it is such a mess

Couldn't agree more! You have to look a five+ different pages to trace a circuit!
From what i looked at from google the owners manual shows more than the FSM. Guess it's best to look into your year and see if you have one or not. The fusible link is the same fuse but not serviceable. I would look at the amp rating and adjust it accordingly to the output of the alternator. If the fuse is lower than the output of the(new) alternator and the output exceeds that the fuse will blow. I have read other forms on upgraded alternators(high amp outputs) and the factory fuses only can be had up to a certain amp rating. Anything over that new wiring and fuse holder is needed.
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