Jeep 5.9L Driveshaft U-Joints - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 9 Old 09-25-2018, 02:33 PM Thread Starter
Sandy97ZJ
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Jeep 5.9L Driveshaft U-Joints

I cannot seem to find a clear answer on the u-joints required for a stock 5.9L F&R diveshafts.

Can I get confirmation on the number and model numbers below:

Front drive shaft (2 x Spicer 1310)
1. Transfer Case to Front Drive Shaft
2. Front Drive Shaft to Front Diff

Rear Drive Shaft (2x Spicer 1330)
1. Rear Slip Yoke to Rear Drive Shaft
2. Rear Drive Shaft to Rear Diff


So four total? I've seen people say 5 but I can't find the fifth.

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post #2 of 9 Old 09-25-2018, 02:39 PM
kg6mov
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The two you need to replace on the front shaft are both at the t-case end in the double cardan.

The fifth would be the one at the front axle. Niner’s didnt have a u-joint there though from the factory, they got the rzeppa CV.


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post #3 of 9 Old 09-25-2018, 02:49 PM Thread Starter
Sandy97ZJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kg6mov View Post
The two you need to replace on the front shaft are both at the t-case end in the double cardan.

The fifth would be the one at the front axle. Ninerís didnt have a u-joint there though from the factory, they got the rzeppa CV.
Got it. Thank you. Both u-joints in the double cardan are the same?
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post #4 of 9 Old 09-25-2018, 03:20 PM
Timo_90xj
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Yeap, front DS two 1310s, rear two 1330s. If rebuilding front DS, get the centering ball yoke as well.

1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX daily driver, 1.75" BB, 32" KM2s, HPD30 Eaton e-locker/D44a stock LSD, 4.56 gears, custom- fabbed tube bumpers and tube fenders,...


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1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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post #5 of 9 Old 09-25-2018, 03:24 PM Thread Starter
Sandy97ZJ
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Thank you both for the insight!
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post #6 of 9 Old 09-26-2018, 03:15 PM
MrRoundel
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Enter your vehicle info into the included utility, and reference the diagram and required u-joints. I know that you already have the info, but this should verify, and serve as good reference in the future. Good luck.





http://www2.dana.com/expertforms/dek350.aspx

1998 Laredo 4.0L 4x4, 242 TC. Turned over 200K miles in 06/18. Original owner.
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post #7 of 9 Old 09-27-2018, 10:22 AM
Mr. Puddles
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Timo_90xj View Post
, get the centering ball yoke as well.
Knowing I have to do mine in the not too distant future where does one find this centering ball yoke?

Follow the build!

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post #8 of 9 Old 09-27-2018, 10:41 AM
MrRoundel
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Here's where I got mine.
http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p230...its_jeep_.html
You can get a rebuild kit for less money (From another supplier anyway. It might be a Moog brand?), but I opted for the new one. I kept the old one for a backup, and may rebuild it down the road. My front DS had the double-cardan joint, rather than the rezeppa style, but it may not make any difference. Verify before buying. Good luck.

1998 Laredo 4.0L 4x4, 242 TC. Turned over 200K miles in 06/18. Original owner.
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post #9 of 9 Old 09-27-2018, 12:32 PM
kg6mov
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Centering ball: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GAPLVI4
Centering ball seal: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GAPL2CO


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1987 Mercedes 300D Turbo, the diesel daily, 30mpg in style

Quote:
Originally Posted by Texas ZJ1 View Post
I heard someone yell "mall crawler" from the back porch. I'll go see who said that. Be right back.
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