Issues with e-fan wiring 5.9 - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 13 Old 09-06-2019, 02:02 AM Thread Starter
IKillGrizz
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Issues with e-fan wiring 5.9

Hey everyone. I’ve read through a bunch of the threads here about re-wiring the e-fan system and at this point in this project I’m a little loss and am wondering if you guys can pinpoint what I’m doing wrong. I ordered all the parts based off of a specific thread but can remember who the OP was. It was very specific and so far, very helpful.

I’ve got a new e-fan motor (VDO PM9069) and the pigtail to match it (Motorcraft WPT168) Spliced the pigtail in to what I read was the correct wires but if someone knows and is willing to share the correct colors to which wire on the pigtail that would be killer. Ended up getting the Rodney Dickman switches and placed it into the upper house using the BWD PT770 connector and this is where I’m confused. I wired the white wire to the orange OG wire. How exactly am I supposed to ground out the switch? I electrical taped the OG ground wire to the Rodney Dickman switch as I watched a video on YouTube where you ground it out through the body... is this correct? The electrical tape is only temporary but I let my temp get up to 216 today and the e-fan never kicked on. Bought new relays for high,low, & ignition... I’ve got everything I need, but I’m lacking the knowledge/experience.

I know there’s threads on this but through the hours of reading I’m still sort of confused. Also, is this thing missing any relays (see attached photo)? I bought this thing for cheap from some guy who TRASHED it and was in over his head. I’ve spent far too long (9 months) fixing his mistakes. Help!

Thanks guys & gals.

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5CC4FA7F-315D-4933-B5CB-6FE3838DBF8C_1567756734637.jpg   76F2A5FE-D713-4B93-8C3B-69B9BCE75C13_1567756753835.jpg   28181945-D130-4058-86B3-4E19E28EF64B_1567756860146.jpg  
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post #2 of 13 Old 09-06-2019, 02:04 AM Thread Starter
IKillGrizz
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Let me add that the photos of the switch don’t show how I’ve grounded it out correctly. I moved the ground to be electrically taped to the side of the switch.
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post #3 of 13 Old 09-06-2019, 05:50 AM
StPaul59
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I grounded the switch around the 'nut' of the switch with a hose clamp holding it tight. Nothing else worked, I even tried running the wire to a ground on the engine with no luck either.
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post #4 of 13 Old 09-06-2019, 08:39 AM
jeepjeepster
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If you touch the wires together, does the relay click?

With the engine temp above the temp needed for the switch to be closed, use a multimeter to see if the switch is closed.

If it shows that its closed, put the leads of the multimeter on the ground wire and on the switch wire. Don't touch the switch with the leads, put them right on the wires so you know if the wires.

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post #5 of 13 Old 09-06-2019, 11:44 AM Thread Starter
IKillGrizz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StPaul59 View Post
I grounded the switch around the 'nut' of the switch with a hose clamp holding it tight. Nothing else worked, I even tried running the wire to a ground on the engine with no luck either.
So you had a ground wire run from the “nut” on the switch to the original ground wire or how exactly did you have that set up? Mind showing me pics?
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post #6 of 13 Old 09-06-2019, 11:45 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepjeepster View Post
If you touch the wires together, does the relay click?

With the engine temp above the temp needed for the switch to be closed, use a multimeter to see if the switch is closed.

If it shows that its closed, put the leads of the multimeter on the ground wire and on the switch wire. Don't touch the switch with the leads, put them right on the wires so you know if the wires.
Would I touch the white to the ground wire? And how exactly am I supposed to use a multimeter to see if the switch is closed while it’s in use?
Thanks again.
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post #7 of 13 Old 09-06-2019, 06:02 PM
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https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.jee...490/%3Famp%3D1

Let me know if this works.. Scroll down and you can see the clamped ground wire. This is the thread I got the idea from.
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post #8 of 13 Old 09-12-2019, 06:25 PM
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IKillGrizz, you've exceeded your message space and so your inbox won't take any further PMs. So I can't respond to your message.
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post #9 of 13 Old 09-12-2019, 07:12 PM
StPaul59
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I tried to get him to do the paper clip trick to the plug for the switch, but by looking at the pictures that may have been cut off and I'm not sure whats under the heat shrink or tape there..
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post #10 of 13 Old 09-15-2019, 08:09 PM Thread Starter
IKillGrizz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StPaul59 View Post
I tried to get him to do the paper clip trick to the plug for the switch, but by looking at the pictures that may have been cut off and I'm not sure whats under the heat shrink or tape there..
I did the “paper clip trick” ... relays click like crazy, tested them both. I ran a 10g wire from negative post to fan motor ground, ran a positive wire from positive post to the low speed and high speed terminals. Both high and low work on the motor. I’m at a loss right now. What could it be? Could running that O-ring as the “ground” for the switch not be a viable option? The relays are brand freakin new. What do you guys think? Ignition relay? I’ve got 2 (my old one and a new one).
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post #11 of 13 Old 09-15-2019, 09:33 PM
StPaul59
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You may have a bad switch. Or, the temp gauge is lieing to you and you're not up to temp yet. Both my Rodney D switches kick on at 208 .

When the relays click with the paper clip trick, is the fan is running? It should be.
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post #12 of 13 Old 09-15-2019, 10:01 PM Thread Starter
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The fan wasn’t running. And I’m running my tests based off an OBD scanner I bought strictly because of this project so it couldn’t be the gauge.I was just running the ground wire to the pigtail that connects to the switch, that’s how RWC said to run the test. I’m thinking it isn’t the switch but instead the actual wires within the female connector that goes to the relay.
What do you think?
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post #13 of 13 Old 09-17-2019, 05:20 AM
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All the relays have a direct +12V power feed (fused) from the PDC; ignition relay control and power comes from the 15A fuse, which then feeds the relay control voltage to low and high speed relays.
Low & high speed relays receive power feed from the PDC through a 60AMP fuse. The relay control circuit itself is ground- controlled (temp switches and A/C pressure switch).

The harness connector (C170) is under the PDC/ near battery tray, check that connector thoroughly. It is possible the connector has either partially melted or the connector terminals are corroded. Do a measurement for continuity and resistance between plug terminals and fan motor connector terminals, check the control circuit wiring, test system with a test light - do NOT use a led- test light, use one that is high-wattage enough to draw a bit more current.
Make sure the relays are actually good; I had a situation where my hi-amp e-fan relays were clicking, but they weren't able to pass the current through. They were chinese built crap, almost brand-new.


Below is the wiring diagram and control logic based on A/C on/off and coolant temp:




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