Help guys im new and dont know what to do?!?!?! - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 29 Old 05-13-2017, 10:02 PM Thread Starter
Jakstalin
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Help guys im new and dont know what to do?!?!?!

Hey all,

So im stuck between a rock and a hard place. i love my jeep and blew a head gasket recently. Being as i love to work on my jeep ill be doing the work myself. I have a few other things i want to replace while im in there. Thermostat, spark plugs, serpetine belt, intake manifold gasket, water pump, air filter. My concern is that at 287k miles ill blow out the bottom of the engine once i start rolling again post repairs; or so says a friend. Will the repairs save me or should i repair, sell, and buy new (not brand new just younger and less miles) or look for a new engine? it needs to be able to continue taking me long distance. its my home on wheels.

Any thoughts?

Also new to the jeep world but head over heels for it. hah (95' jgc 4.0L)

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post #2 of 29 Old 05-14-2017, 04:31 AM
Pierre_r
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Your friend has obviosly never owned a jeep..
The 4.0 is almost impossible to kill.
I would replace the radiator and hoses while you are replacing parts of the cooling system, if not any of the old parts is what is going to leave you stranded when they break.
Just replace the oil/filter and the bottom end will not give you any problems.
When replacing the belt replace the idlerwheels to or atleast check so that they spin freely and dont sound bad, also check the harmonic balancer (bottom pulley of the engine) they can split in 2 when they go bad, either falling off or grinding its way in to the timingchaincover, you dont want any of that to happen.

You could add a mechanical oilpressure guage to it to see the real pressure you have and not the one on the dash as they are not to be trusted sometimes...
But change the oil and watch what oilpressure you have and you will be fine.

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post #3 of 29 Old 05-14-2017, 05:00 AM
Stitch586
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With almost 300 on the clock and a blown head gasket, I'd replace the whole thing.

The 4.0 (with proper maintenance) is pretty bullet proof like mentioned above, so stay with that.

A rebuilt engine is about $1700 depending on where you get one (or cheaper) and if your doing your own work no shop costs.

With blown head gaskets if coolant gets in the cylinders it will wipe them out pretty quick. If you caught it in time you might be ok, but then again you have almost 300 on the clock.

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post #4 of 29 Old 05-14-2017, 04:01 PM
kg6mov
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For long distance I would drop a rebuilt 4.0 in there. That's gonna be the shortest path to something you can trust.

If you get a reasonable one you should get 300k out of it.
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post #5 of 29 Old 05-14-2017, 06:19 PM
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Originally Posted by kg6mov View Post
For long distance I would drop a rebuilt 4.0 in there. That's gonna be the shortest path to something you can trust.

If you get a reasonable one you should get 300k out of it.

There is something to be said for this approach. It's a bit more cash layout, but you have essentially a new engine.

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post #6 of 29 Old 05-14-2017, 08:23 PM
StormChaserTim
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Now, hang on a sec......

How do you KNOW you have a blown head gasket? These are iron block, and iron head. They're a little harder to lift a head gasket on than anything with aluminum heads. Are you making a milkshake in the oil pan, mixing oil into the coolant, steaming out the pipe......and did you do a compression check?

I just have to ask, because a LOT of folks have brought me cars where they said they either blew a head gasket, or had one leaking, and I have found another problem.

Tim

1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo, 4.0L 2WD, 355,000 miles.
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post #7 of 29 Old 05-14-2017, 09:06 PM Thread Starter
Jakstalin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StormChaserTim View Post
Now, hang on a sec......

How do you KNOW you have a blown head gasket? These are iron block, and iron head. They're a little harder to lift a head gasket on than anything with aluminum heads. Are you making a milkshake in the oil pan, mixing oil into the coolant, steaming out the pipe......and did you do a compression check?

I just have to ask, because a LOT of folks have brought me cars where they said they either blew a head gasket, or had one leaking, and I have found another problem.

Tim
Tim i suppose i could be wrong but i caught it pretty early it was driving as it usually did when it overheated and died on a stop. i was able to get the engine to turn and the one block to my home. upon arrivial i notice what seemed like just water coming from near the pulley for the fan behind the radiator. until i was able to notice an antifreeze smell. (milky discharge) i have not yet checked compression. The small amount of steam/white smoke i did see came from just about the same place as the milky discharge. i have all the parts to do the rapirs i mentioned above. i want my suzy Q back!

Thanks for any help
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post #8 of 29 Old 05-14-2017, 09:08 PM Thread Starter
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So im thinking apart from gathering my replacements fluids to go with the parts i already have i should buy a timing belt kit and serpentine belt pulley? Mayeb also new Rad hoses?
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post #9 of 29 Old 05-14-2017, 09:33 PM
StormChaserTim
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Man, I would definitely check the compression......because it sounds to me like you blew a water pump. It sucks to pull an engine apart to find a simple fix....and if you have good solid compression on all six, you can pretty much rule out a head gasket. You can also look at the plugs, and look for signs of water fouling, and that will be a clue too.

The AMC 4.0L has a chain drive, no timing belt, so you're likely OK there. With your mileage, I would look very carefully at all the hoses, change the thermostat (buy a Mopar one), and check the radiator cap.

My 1995 has 355,000 miles on it, still on the original head gasket...it's blown a couple of water pumps, and a couple of radiators. When a car gets to this age, expect all that stuff to be pretty much compromised. However, head gaskets usually are not, so unless you completely nuked the engine (and I mean temp gauge BURIED all the way into the red) you likely need to just go through the cooling system, and fix a few things up.

Your water pump has a bearing in it, that over time, will loosen up, and cause the pump shaft to get movement, which will ace out the seal....the weep hole on the bottom of the pump is there to tell you when this has occurred, and that is sure what it sounds like to me. Grab the fan, and see if you have any movement, up down, and side to side, that you can see in the water pump belt pulley. That's signal number one that the water pump bearing has expired. Don't be scared to give a good tug, either.....you want to know if that bearing is OK...just don't reef on it so hard that you bend the fan. (This takes a bit of man-handling, by the way.)

Tim

1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo, 4.0L 2WD, 355,000 miles.
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post #10 of 29 Old 05-14-2017, 11:38 PM Thread Starter
Jakstalin
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ya needle past hot, way past
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post #11 of 29 Old 05-15-2017, 03:32 AM
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I second what StormChaserTim said. You described a water pump failure. Any thoughts about the head gasket can be proven/disproved by a compression check. Check it dry and wet.

I'm not saying it's happened to you, when I blew my radiator and overheated my jeep, my #1 intake valve warped. It took months for it to get to be an issue, which gave me time to work over another head to replace it. If your compression check shows a bad gasket, check out the link in my siggy to see what's involved with that repair. Keep in mind I went a few steps past just a head gasket.

My cylinder head overhaul:
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post #12 of 29 Old 05-15-2017, 11:25 PM
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I have a hard time to believe you blew the gasket. 91-95 4Ls have the strongest head. You couldn't kill it even if you tried. If you have coolant coming out near the radiator area, you probably just blew the water pump. A blown head gasket would give you smoke out of the tailpipe and/or water in the coolant.

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post #13 of 29 Old 05-16-2017, 01:19 AM Thread Starter
Jakstalin
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Okay well good thing I already have a new water pump. Do i need anything particular to do a compression check?
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post #14 of 29 Old 05-16-2017, 01:44 AM Thread Starter
Jakstalin
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I guess I just need the compression gauge. I'll post my findings after I do the check. Once connected I just turn my engine a few times on each cylinder? Like four key turns?
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post #15 of 29 Old 05-16-2017, 05:31 PM
StormChaserTim
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jakstalin View Post
I guess I just need the compression gauge. I'll post my findings after I do the check. Once connected I just turn my engine a few times on each cylinder? Like four key turns?
My time-honored compression test technique:

Remove all of the plugs.

Thread in compression gauge.

Hold throttle wide open. (This removes the possibility of the throttle blade giving false readings)

Crank over till gauge stops going up, usually 4 or 5 seconds.

Cylinder variance should not be more than about 5% on a brand new engine, older engines I give a little more leeway, the 4.0L should never have more than 30 pounds difference between cylinders.

On the 4.0L you are looking for somewhere between 120-150, hopefully with very consistent readings between cylinders. A lifted head gasket will normally show up as next to no compression on two neighboring cylinders, with the rest showing normal readings.

Tim

1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo, 4.0L 2WD, 355,000 miles.
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