HELP!! 1996 jeep grand cherokee issue - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 20 Old 01-06-2015, 11:13 PM Thread Starter
Chasekt98
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HELP!! 1996 jeep grand cherokee issue

Hello!

Im having the Dreaded jeep GC stalling issue.
I have searched these forums left and right and still find nothing.
I have dumped tons of cash into thid jeep and still cant find anything.

Description: The 1996 jeep Grand cherokee 217k miles started stalling on me at stop signs/lights, idling etc....
regardless or hot or cold temperature it would stall.

What I have done and replaced.
Cleaned/checked the Grounds
cleaned/checked all fuses and relays in junction box and fuse panel
New ecu
new map sensor
new cps sensor
new iac motor
new iat sensor
new tps sensor
new ambient air temperature sensor
new pick up coil
new distributor (cap, rotor, steam)
New wires (granatelli mpg +)
New plugs (nology silver core plugs)
New catalytic converter
new upstream o2 sensor
new downstream o2 sensor
new battery
new ignition coil
new asd relay
new evap purge solenoid
(There may be a few missing, ive replaced nearly every sensor, name one that I missed and ive probably replaced it)

Regardless of all this change.
It still stalls.

But the problem has changed a bit.

It only happens when the engine is cold and the temp is 30F or below.

The engine will stall on its own when idling, or when you put it into a driving gear. Even when stepping on the gas it may stall.

Now the thing is the engine has to be cold!

If yoy can some how manage the engine to get up to normal operating temperature. It will run fine and you wont be able to get it to stall. This problem is very irritating and I need help as im left in a dead end!.

Thanks in advance for any clues or information given

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post #2 of 20 Old 01-07-2015, 03:14 AM
rep-tile
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Well if you'd tell us the engine that might help.
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post #3 of 20 Old 01-07-2015, 04:26 AM
ZeeJay1997
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use a heat pad around the pcm overnight. if it doesnt stall afterwards, change the pcm


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post #4 of 20 Old 01-07-2015, 05:50 AM Thread Starter
Chasekt98
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Yes, sorry, it is the 4.0l Inline 6 engine.
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post #5 of 20 Old 01-07-2015, 05:51 AM Thread Starter
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I have already replaced the PCM, twice.
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post #6 of 20 Old 01-07-2015, 07:57 AM
Scrubberguy
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Follow ZeeJay's advise PCM's are "ODD" in the ZJ's don't ask me how I know, LOL!
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post #7 of 20 Old 01-07-2015, 08:35 AM
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Dump the silver core plugs. Don't listen to that "we make the best spark plugs in the world" bull****. The 4L needs copper core plugs.
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post #8 of 20 Old 01-07-2015, 05:40 PM
ZeeJay1997
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with two pcms already i would look elsewhere. you didnt say that earlier.

here's a consideration for you.

the FSM gives minimum 3000 Ohms Per Foot and maximum 12,000 Ohms Per Foot for plug wires. the oem plug wires are carbon core. those granatelli mpg + claim to be zero ohm wires and are wire wound.

i agree that the plugs you are using and/or the wires could be the cause of the problem

take a look in the ignition section of the link below.


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post #9 of 20 Old 01-07-2015, 07:53 PM Thread Starter
Chasekt98
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeeJay1997 View Post
with two pcms already i would look elsewhere. you didnt say that earlier.

here's a consideration for you.

the FSM gives minimum 3000 Ohms Per Foot and maximum 12,000 Ohms Per Foot for plug wires. the oem plug wires are carbon core. those granatelli mpg + claim to be zero ohm wires and are wire wound.

i agree that the plugs you are using and/or the wires could be the cause of the problem

take a look in the ignition section of the link below.

If the plugs/wires would be the problem wouldnt it happen regardless of operating temperature? In the summer it runs like a dream.
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post #10 of 20 Old 01-07-2015, 10:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chasekt98 View Post
If the plugs/wires would be the problem wouldnt it happen regardless of operating temperature? In the summer it runs like a dream.
Temperature changes the impedance of the plugs; so yeah this could easily explain your symptoms. You will find an abundance of documented issues caused soon or later by using plugs with the wrong heat range on this engine. Let's put it this way, before you throw any more money at your problem, change the plugs. It's like $1.50 per OEM Champion plug.
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post #11 of 20 Old 01-08-2015, 08:19 AM Thread Starter
Chasekt98
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rep-tile View Post
Temperature changes the impedance of the plugs; so yeah this could easily explain your symptoms. You will find an abundance of documented issues caused soon or later by using plugs with the wrong heat range on this engine. Let's put it this way, before you throw any more money at your problem, change the plugs. It's like $1.50 per OEM Champion plug.
Okay, ill give it a shot, do you think that a pair of oem wires will do the same as the plugs? Id rather buy a cheap set of oem wires and put them in saying they are easier and that its -30 degrees out right now.
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post #12 of 20 Old 01-08-2015, 09:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chasekt98 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by rep-tile View Post
Temperature changes the impedance of the plugs; so yeah this could easily explain your symptoms. You will find an abundance of documented issues caused soon or later by using plugs with the wrong heat range on this engine. Let's put it this way, before you throw any more money at your problem, change the plugs. It's like $1.50 per OEM Champion plug.
Okay, ill give it a shot, do you think that a pair of oem wires will do the same as the plugs? Id rather buy a cheap set of oem wires and put them in saying they are easier and that its -30 degrees out right now.
Really? No the brand of wires don't matter and isn't going fix the plug issue.
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post #13 of 20 Old 01-08-2015, 10:14 AM
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If you go to ZeeJay's ignition section in his dirty dozen thread you'll see a link to the Denso plug wires for your 4.0 for only $20.

You've replaced all those sensors but what brand did you replace them or are they all aftermarket? While some aftermarket sensors work, many won't, especially when it comes to the crank sensor.

When I had a bad Mopar crank sensor often my 96 4.0 would fail to start 1st thing in the morning when cold. Not as cold as there but complete the below crank sensor test in a no-start condition to see if you're even getting a crank sensor signal? Let us know what you find and good luck.

http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/jee...crank-sensor-1

96 4.0 ZJ Laredo, 2004 4.7L WJ Limited, 96 4.0 XJ (son's)


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post #14 of 20 Old 01-08-2015, 10:14 AM Thread Starter
Chasekt98
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I was just thinking because if the FSM calls for 3000 ohm resistance im blowing that out of tbe water saying as the plugs and wires both have 0 ohms. If i got wires that were 3000 ohm resistance or close i was just thinking it would substitute.
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post #15 of 20 Old 01-08-2015, 04:38 PM
ZeeJay1997
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uniblurb View Post
If you go to ZeeJay's ignition section in his dirty dozen thread you'll see a link to the Denso plug wires for your 4.0 for only $20.

You've replaced all those sensors but what brand did you replace them or are they all aftermarket? While some aftermarket sensors work, many won't, especially when it comes to the crank sensor.

When I had a bad Mopar crank sensor often my 96 4.0 would fail to start 1st thing in the morning when cold. Not as cold as there but complete the below crank sensor test in a no-start condition to see if you're even getting a crank sensor signal? Let us know what you find and good luck.

http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/jee...crank-sensor-1
^^ whut he said


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