Im having the Dreaded jeep GC stalling issue.
I have searched these forums left and right and still find nothing.
I have dumped tons of cash into thid jeep and still cant find anything.
Description: The 1996 jeep Grand cherokee 217k miles started stalling on me at stop signs/lights, idling etc....
regardless or hot or cold temperature it would stall.
What I have done and replaced.
Cleaned/checked the Grounds
cleaned/checked all fuses and relays in junction box and fuse panel
New ecu
new map sensor
new cps sensor
new iac motor
new iat sensor
new tps sensor
new ambient air temperature sensor
new pick up coil
new distributor (cap, rotor, steam)
New wires (granatelli mpg +)
New plugs (nology silver core plugs)
New catalytic converter
new upstream o2 sensor
new downstream o2 sensor
new battery
new ignition coil
new asd relay
new evap purge solenoid
(There may be a few missing, ive replaced nearly every sensor, name one that I missed and ive probably replaced it)
Regardless of all this change.
It still stalls.
But the problem has changed a bit.
It only happens when the engine is cold and the temp is 30°F or below.
The engine will stall on its own when idling, or when you put it into a driving gear. Even when stepping on the gas it may stall.
Now the thing is the engine has to be cold!
If yoy can some how manage the engine to get up to normal operating temperature. It will run fine and you wont be able to get it to stall. This problem is very irritating and I need help as im left in a dead end!.
Thanks in advance for any clues or information given
with two pcms already i would look elsewhere. you didnt say that earlier.
here's a consideration for you.
the FSM gives minimum 3000 Ohms Per Foot and maximum 12,000 Ohms Per Foot for plug wires. the oem plug wires are carbon core. those granatelli mpg + claim to be zero ohm wires and are wire wound.
i agree that the plugs you are using and/or the wires could be the cause of the problem
take a look in the ignition section of the link below.
with two pcms already i would look elsewhere. you didnt say that earlier.
here's a consideration for you.
the FSM gives minimum 3000 Ohms Per Foot and maximum 12,000 Ohms Per Foot for plug wires. the oem plug wires are carbon core. those granatelli mpg + claim to be zero ohm wires and are wire wound.
i agree that the plugs you are using and/or the wires could be the cause of the problem
take a look in the ignition section of the link below.
If you go to ZeeJay's ignition section in his dirty dozen thread you'll see a link to the Denso plug wires for your 4.0 for only $20.
You've replaced all those sensors but what brand did you replace them or are they all aftermarket? While some aftermarket sensors work, many won't, especially when it comes to the crank sensor.
When I had a bad Mopar crank sensor often my 96 4.0 would fail to start 1st thing in the morning when cold. Not as cold as there but complete the below crank sensor test in a no-start condition to see if you're even getting a crank sensor signal? Let us know what you find and good luck.
I was just thinking because if the FSM calls for 3000 ohm resistance im blowing that out of tbe water saying as the plugs and wires both have 0 ohms. If i got wires that were 3000 ohm resistance or close i was just thinking it would substitute.
I have not had my ZJ for a while. Check the fuel pressure at the fuel rail and see if it meets specifications. Sounds like the engine may not be getting enough fuel at idle. Could be a weak, tired fuel pump, clogged fuel filter or clogged injectors.
Please test before replacing. I believe you can borrow a fuel pressure gauge from an auto supply store.
dont go changing all the sensors again because they're not mopar. they may be fine. if your problem has not changed since you started changing things, it's probably okay
While I'll always push for Mopar sensors I'd tend to agree with Zee since you have so much money invested in them. When I came on here a few years ago he taught me testing since I was throwing so many parts at my 96 4.0 for a stalling problem along with an erratic no-start condition. Turned out a bad engine/PCM ground on the coil stud took out a couple PCM's along with a couple Mopar crank sensors.
Having said that I did buy a couple crank sensors from Advance which were just as bad/finicky as the bad Mopar one I was trying to replace. But I know Zee is running a jewel of a crank sensor from NAPA which hasn't given him any problems. Does this mean all crank sensors from Advance are bad while all NAPA crank sensor are good, probably not. It's a crap shoot since so many parts are outsourced overseas these days and even Mopar does it.
RCS1300 brings up a real good point about checking for fuel/pressure which didn't see on your list. Many auto parts stores have loaner fuel pressure testers and spec is 49psi +/- 5psi. Also the fuel system shouldn't bleed off below 24psi after 10-30 min if everything is working correctly. Taping the fuel gauge face to the windshield is a trick I learned from Zee to check pressure while driving.
It should be noted there was a TSB issued on the 96 4.0/5.2 fuel pump in particular for overheating problems. It sure isn't going overheat a -30 but as with any other motor overheating does shorten the motor life. I had to change my 96 OE fuel pump out at about 195-200K miles since it was failing.
Great below deal at $120 for a new Bosch fuel pump module but again, do some extensive testing first. Bosch is OE and Mopar just repackages the same pump module while selling them for a whole lot more.
Lastly, the fuel filter is easy to change out on the 96 and you may want to try this if it hasn't been done in a while. And it doesn't hurt to add a fuel additive like "Heet" to your fuel system to try and clear any water out which happens at those low temps. Good luck!
I have not yet checked fuel pressure, however fuel filter has been replaced, cps sensor is getting good signal. Im hoping on being able to replace plugs with copper resistor plugs today. Ill let you know how it goes.
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