Granch Cherokee ran fine, now stalling! - JeepForum.com
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 9 Old 01-21-2017, 11:39 AM Thread Starter
redman7275
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 12
Granch Cherokee ran fine, now stalling!

This question is for a 97 grand cherokee belonging to my buddy, straight six, automatic. It has high mileage, but is in relatively good shape. It has been a daily driver for about two months with no problems, except a dead battery which was replaced, but yesterday at several red lights the jeep stalled. It would usually start right back up, except for one time where it did not start back up for about an hour. It was also noted that the jeep runs a little rough at idle.

The first time it stalled was about a mile after the jeep was down to E on the fuel gauge, and then filled to a quarter tank. The other 2-3 times it stalled were all within 3 miles of getting fuel.

Its my guess that my buddy ran it down on fuel and theres a bubble of air in the fuel line and/or the fuel filter has garbage in it and/or the fuel pump is having a problem. It seems this would cause the air/fuel ratio to be off, explaining the rough idle. Anybody have any other guesses/solutions (Ive read some stuff about the PCM or harness)? Hes planning to bring it to a mechanic, but id like to save him some money and work on it if I can. Much appreciated!

redman7275 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 9 Old 01-21-2017, 12:07 PM
trol1374
Registered User
1995 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: San Antonio
Posts: 62
Does it happen when he has over a half tank? But here is the write up that covers all the stalling issues. Could be PCM, could be a loose ground, could be just need to clean the IAC and TPS. Could be the MAP sensor. Anyways, check this link.
https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/1...talls-1407423/
trol1374 is offline  
post #3 of 9 Old 01-21-2017, 12:09 PM
paulsheer2
Registered User
1993 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 1,214
Garage
There are 50 possible problems.
You need to do a full diagnostic of all sensors. Clean the throttle body, test the fuel pressure, test elec grounds, and then it could still be the PCM, or the secondary ignition or coil, or flacky main elec harness.

This could take weeks and cost $1000 in equip and parts.

The mechanic may take just as long and cost just as much.

Sorry to give dark news. :-(




Sent from my SM-N910C using Tapatalk

93 ZJ 5.2, 3.58 stroked. 242 swap. 2.5" lift. dozens of mods.
paulsheer2 is offline  
 
post #4 of 9 Old 01-22-2017, 10:57 AM
papitt
Registered User
1995 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Stephenville Texas 76401
Posts: 1,301
Garage
MY 95 4.0L... Seems to do something like yours If I don't keep it full on fuel. I've not determined if it's fuel or heat.. Mine also seems to do it worse when it get warm out side.
It'd been cold from 15 up to 45 for about a month . But then the 1st day it got back to over 70* Mine started to stalling & bucking . But my fuel was down below 3/8 of a tank.
.... I've bought the good grade of fuel thinking It might clean a little more. I don't believe that did anything.
... I've ran about 5 different brands of fuel injector cleaners. As my jeep had sat for about a year when I bought it.
... I've not tested the fuel pump on this jeep .& I've not replaced the fuel pump on this jeep . My other 2... ZJ's I HAD BEFORE this one I replaced the fuel pump twice. I'VE SOLD MY 1ST 2 ZJ's . DRIVING no3 daily ... & I have no.4 in the shop to replace no3.
papitt is offline  
post #5 of 9 Old 01-22-2017, 04:25 PM
Uniblurb
Web Wheeler
 
Uniblurb's Avatar
2004 WJ 
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Central
Posts: 10,008
Quote:
Originally Posted by redman7275 View Post
This question is for a 97 grand cherokee belonging to my buddy, straight six, automatic.

The first time it stalled was about a mile after the jeep was down to E on the fuel gauge, and then filled to a quarter tank. The other 2-3 times it stalled were all within 3 miles of getting fuel.
Why constantly run it on empty or about out of fuel since this is asking for it?? The pump may have picked up a bunch of dirt/water in the fuel in the bottom of the tank.

And it's not like you can just easily change out the fuel filter/regulator on the 97-98 ZJ's. The filter/regulator are located in a 'can' on top of the fuel module on top of the tank where the whole tank needs dropped.

Dump a bottle of "HEET" in the tank for dispersing any water in the tank, filter, lines, etc, along with adding some new fuel. Then run a fuel pressure test on it with spec being 49psi +/- 5psi and it shouldn't drop below 24psi 10-20 min after shut down or the check valve on the pump outlet is bad.

If it's not getting spec fuel pressure don't even waste your time putting a new filter/regulator on it, or a cheap pump module, and go with a new Bosch/OE fuel pump module from Rockauto which are about $160.

96 4.0 ZJ Laredo, 2004 4.7L WJ Limited, 96 4.0 XJ (son's)


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
&
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
.
Uniblurb is online now  
post #6 of 9 Old 01-23-2017, 03:57 PM Thread Starter
redman7275
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 12
Okay, so update on the Jeep. I went to check it out today and it ran fine. It only sounded as if it was going to stall once, but it didn't. I did quick throttle and release and slow and long throttle, with no problems. However while driving a heard a gurgle coming from under the hood. I checked it out and his coolant reservoir was nearly empty with coolant spray under the hood form the belt. Found out the serpentine belt was cutting into lower coolant tube. Obviously this is a problem that needs to be fixed, but would a lack of coolant and an overheating engine cause the original stalling issue? Im not sure if the computer would recognize this and shut it down or have a rough idle/stall.
redman7275 is offline  
post #7 of 9 Old 01-24-2017, 08:35 PM
95GC_Fred
Registered User
1995 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Salem
Posts: 21
I would look at checking the Fuel pressure at idle and then at 2000 rpm, if not 49lbs +-5lbs then change fuel pump. 1AAAuto.com or RockAuto.com.
I had a 1995 ZJ Grand Cherokee 2 wheel drive with 250,000 miles that the fuel pump just quit working. I had a 1997 Ford Contour car that was very rough running and stalling. ODB2 gave a "Lean Burn error code". I cleaned the EGR Engine Gas Recirculating valve. I cleaned the IAC Idle Air Control no change. Then I rented for $105, a Fuel pressure checker from Auto Zone. 10 lbs of Fuel pressure. There,s the problem of stalling, bucking, when pressing down the gas accelerator peddle. Went to Pick n Pull, $25 bucks for a fuel pump. ( The old one had corrosion on +12V red power wire inside the fuel pump from pump to connector on top. The external power pin blade was green with corrosion and broke off.) Change the fuel pump, fuel pressure is now 30lbs and when pressing gas peddle down, the internal vacuum pressure drops from 15lbs to 5lbs, but the design allows the fuel pressure to rise to 40lbs. IE give you more fuel to accelerate down the road, instead of stalling and bucking!

So perform the other checks given in other posts above to eliminate any other problems first. Fuel pumps are designed to last about 150K miles. Is your mileage greater? Then consider changing out fuel pump. 2 hose clamp connectors up inside near the gas tank inlet inside the left rear fender.
Time to drop a tank is about 1 to 1.5 hours the first time. Have less then 1/4 tank of gas or drain fuel first. Fairly light with 2 gallons or less.
You might consider replacing the gas line and connectors from the top of the fuel tank to the fuel filter mounted underneath in front of the rear axle.
Fuel line length including connectors is 18 to 18.5 inches in length from Gas Tank top to Fuel filter. Throw a piece of large cardboard down underneath to slide on for your comfort. Loosen both metal straps. Unbolt the passenger side metal strap first and lower that right side of the gas tank first to the ground. Next slide the tank out of metal strap harness to passenger side and set on the ground. Take off the fuel line from top of the tank. Place the fuel line out of the way and tape or tie down. Hope this helps your knowledge level and confidence to give a fuel pump change a go ahead. I welcome your questions.
95GC_Fred is offline  
post #8 of 9 Old 01-29-2017, 12:11 AM
papitt
Registered User
1995 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Stephenville Texas 76401
Posts: 1,301
Garage
I bought a fuel pressure tester for my self from ... HARBOR Freight .. Yes H/B stuff is crap. But if it'll work several time it cheaper than renting one from VatoZone ... I believe I've used it about 5 times already. I believe it was $37.00. ..
... One of the reasons I LIKE OWNING MY OWN PRESSURE GAUGE. Is I can install it & TAPE IT TO THE WINDSHIELD .. Drive for 5 days watching the Fluctuations in Pressures.
.. & Next Monday I still own it.
... If you tape your gauge to the windshield for several days at a time. Replace & Clean your windshield about ever 3 days. So the tape wont mark your shield.
papitt is offline  
post #9 of 9 Old 01-29-2017, 04:13 PM
Uniblurb
Web Wheeler
 
Uniblurb's Avatar
2004 WJ 
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Central
Posts: 10,008
Here's the OTC 5630 fuel pressure tester I bought on Amazon for only $33 if you have a prime account.

https://www.amazon.com/OTC-5630-Fuel.../dp/B000R5IASC

Works real well and that bypass valve with plastic hose came in real handy. My 96 4.0 fuel pump was working intermittently so I put a clamp on the bypass valve button while running the plastic hose into a gas can. Was able to run all except about 2-3 gals out of the tank although it took a while with such as small hose.

96 4.0 ZJ Laredo, 2004 4.7L WJ Limited, 96 4.0 XJ (son's)


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
&
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
.
Uniblurb is online now  
Reply

Tags
fuel filter , fuel pump , grand cherokee , stalling

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the JeepForum.com forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid e-mail address for yourself.



Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome