Distributer Issues - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 12 Old 11-21-2019, 10:56 PM Thread Starter
Spetie
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1935 CJ2A 
 
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Distributer Issues

Hello,

I have been having some issues with misfiring when Iím accelerating at high speeds. Particularly when heading up hills etc, I replaced my distributer cap with a mopar replacement but the rotor was just a generic Oreillys brand (I was in a pinch).

I was wondering if I needed to also change the ignition pick up sensor? Not sure if that is something that also typically gets replaced when doing this job.

Also worth noting the old cap had some gnarly corrosion on one nip. Things seem to have gotten worse... things seem to be a bit more wobbly at 70-75mph but I feel like it goes away around 80mph.

It was also having issues with starting. Seemed like if I turned it on then off then tried to start 9/10 times it would fire right up but never on the 1st time. Now it take 2-3 rounds of actually turning the engine over and over again with a little gas on the pedal to get it to start up.

Any suggestions? Do I need to also change that sensor? Should I get another rotor?

Edit - working on the 5.2

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post #2 of 12 Old 11-21-2019, 11:13 PM
kachink
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I would suggest changing the wires too, and route them according to the TSB on the subject. Clean the grounds & battery terminals. New plugs wouldn't hurt.

If you are in a pinch for cash, make sure that the one wire that went into the corroded terminal is cleaned up well and route according to the TSB. Wires are half the cost of a complete tune up, but it really does make a difference.

I can tell my 98 5.2 needs a tune up when it starts to miss under moderate loads. I don't know why, but I always get green corrosion in only one of the terminals. I don't remember which, but it's always one of the ones in the back next to the firewall.
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post #3 of 12 Old 11-21-2019, 11:16 PM Thread Starter
Spetie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kachink View Post
I would suggest changing the wires too, and route them according to the TSB on the subject. Clean the grounds & battery terminals. New plugs wouldn't hurt.



If you are in a pinch for cash, make sure that the one wire that went into the corroded terminal is cleaned up well and route according to the TSB. Wires are half the cost of a complete tune up, but it really does make a difference.



I can tell my 98 5.2 needs a tune up when it starts to miss under moderate loads. I don't know why, but I always get green corrosion in only one of the terminals. I don't remember which, but it's always one of the ones in the back next to the firewall.


Do you usually use that dielectric gel on the wire? I havenít ever but wondering if shooting them up with a bunch of that will keep the corrosion from creeping in?

Also since Iíll be checking plugs here in the next 10-15 min or so, I canít remember but with these old steel blocks anti-seize isnít needed right?
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post #4 of 12 Old 11-21-2019, 11:32 PM
kachink
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I used the dielectric grease the last time I did it because of the corrosion issue, but never before that.
The only time I used anti-seize was when the guy at O'Riley tried to sell me a packet - I told him no and he gave it to me free.
Pickup sensor isn't a normal maintenance item.

Regarding the hard start, try turning the key to on, listen to the fuel pump in the tank start & run for a few seconds then stop. Turn the key off, then do it again two more times. If it starts easier after that then the seal that keeps the fuel line pressurized is probably leaking gas back into the tank. You could hook up a pressure gauge to make sure, but you probably need a new fuel pump assembly. Mine has that same problem right now.
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post #5 of 12 Old 11-22-2019, 12:31 AM Thread Starter
Spetie
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Distributer Issues

Update- all plugs running down the left side looked toasty/burnt. One on the right right side cracked on the way out. The other 3 on the right side didnít look too terribly bad.

2-3 of the cables looked pretty rough. Of those 2-3 one was really corroded.

Current lines are champions, current plugs are autolight.

Iv always been told to use NGK on Chryslerís, must have been my dad or bother who did the last Ďtune upí.

Brand suggestions on lines and plugs? Or am I right about the NGKís?
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post #6 of 12 Old 11-22-2019, 05:47 AM
V8GCZJ
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It took 5 posts before we had a hint of what motor you have. You will have no issues with autolites, NGK is a decent plug also. By "lines" i assume you mean wires, Just get a decent quality brand ( no ebay/china stuff). Wouldn't hurt to up to 8mm wire. And when you get a cap ask for "OEM style" If not you will get aluminum inserts that will corrode in no time as apposed to brass.
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post #7 of 12 Old 11-22-2019, 06:01 AM
jtec
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80mph in a 20+ year old SUV - gotta love it.

You mention up hill, hi speed, extended cranking - have you checked fuel pressure and leak down, being a 1998 thats OBDII so you could look at fuel trims and o2 sensor readings and ECT.

When I see the price of OEM I think aftermarket.
When I see the quality of aftermarket I think OEM.
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post #8 of 12 Old 11-22-2019, 07:32 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtec View Post
80mph in a 20+ year old SUV - gotta love it.



You mention up hill, hi speed, extended cranking - have you checked fuel pressure and leak down, being a 1998 thats OBDII so you could look at fuel trims and o2 sensor readings and ECT.


Not quite yet, but thatís next once I get new plug and wires.
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post #9 of 12 Old 11-22-2019, 08:23 AM
wingless
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Implement the TSB 18-48-98 for the spark plug wire routing.

The Crankshaft Position Sensor (CPS) could also affect the spark. If replacing, many suggest using the OEM part.
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post #10 of 12 Old 11-22-2019, 01:11 PM Thread Starter
Spetie
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New plugs, wires, and rotor.

Wrapped it up this morning just before work. I had to go with Champion plugs, Standard Ignition bluesteak rotor, and Duralast plugs due to time/money constraints. But I will be keeping a closer eye on these and hopefully I can swap out for more OEM items later down the line.

Diving is noticeably much smoother and she fired up the 1st time with no issues. Also as soon as I turned the Jeep to on (even before starting it) the check engine like stayed off with out getting codes cleared.

That being said the check engine light does still flash at me when Iím gunning it up hill around 70mph but itís much less sensitive. Before it would flash just getting up to highway speeds. The light doesnít continue to stay on (for now) like it was before.

Any suggestions on what to do from here? Should I still check the fuel pressure since it starts right up now?
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post #11 of 12 Old 11-22-2019, 01:13 PM Thread Starter
Spetie
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Distributer Issues

Quote:
Originally Posted by wingless View Post
Implement the TSB 18-48-98 for the spark plug wire routing.



The Crankshaft Position Sensor (CPS) could also affect the spark. If replacing, many suggest using the OEM part.


Looking at this now and may have give it a shot.
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post #12 of 12 Old 11-22-2019, 08:52 PM Thread Starter
Spetie
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Distributer Issues

So on the way home it misfired a couple more times and now the Check Engine light is staying on. OBD2 says that we are now down to just cylinder 6 misfiring.
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