Common ZJ Problems / Tutorial On How To Fix Them - Page 16 - JeepForum.com
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post #226 of 283 Old 12-24-2014, 12:11 PM
kg6mov
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1996 ZJ 
 
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Well your 93 wrangler is a YJ not a ZJ so you'll have better luck asking in the YJ section which is here: https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/

The YJ uses a much simpler computer system than the ZJ so I'm not sure. Fill out your jeep profile so we will know what engine trans etc you have. Then it will be much easier to help you.



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1984 F250, 460 BB, T19, work truck/future tow pig
1987 Mercedes 300D Turbo, the diesel daily, 30mpg in style

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Originally Posted by Texas ZJ1 View Post
I heard someone yell "mall crawler" from the back porch. I'll go see who said that. Be right back.
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post #227 of 283 Old 01-10-2015, 01:17 AM
lunchfist
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2000 WJ 
 
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Thank you!!!
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post #228 of 283 Old 01-22-2015, 02:21 AM
RodrigoVolpato
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1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 30
hi guys, last week i changed my governor solenoid and transducer from my a500 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo-4.0l and it solve the slipping problem, but two days after these the problem come back, start slipping again.
does anyone know what is the problem???
looks like the system burn the new sensor!
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post #229 of 283 Old 01-22-2015, 02:29 AM
Matta94GCL
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2005 KJ Liberty 
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Iron Mountain
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RodrigoVolpato View Post
hi guys, last week i changed my governor solenoid and transducer from my a500 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo-4.0l and it solve the slipping problem, but two days after these the problem come back, start slipping again.
does anyone know what is the problem???
looks like the system burn the new sensor!
Did you do a band adjustment and remove and clean the valve body? I wouldn't think a brand new sensor would burn out so far unless you have other (electrical) problems like shorting pcm connections, bad engine block, fender and battery grounds, etc. Give your charging system a good look over and you can even wiggle or whack the pcm (passenger side firewall in engine bay behind coolant reservoir) while it's running to see if that changes the running behavior of the engine or kills it entirely. You could have corroded pcm connections too.

This is my jeep. There are many like it, but this one is mine.
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post #230 of 283 Old 01-22-2015, 08:48 AM
MrRoundel
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1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: California
Posts: 2,461
Quote:
Originally Posted by RodrigoVolpato View Post
hi guys, last week i changed my governor solenoid and transducer from my a500 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo-4.0l and it solve the slipping problem, but two days after these the problem come back, start slipping again.
does anyone know what is the problem???
looks like the system burn the new sensor!
Did you use Mopar parts? If not, that might be the problem. Many have tried using aftermarket parts, branded with all sorts of names other than Mopar, and have had issues soon after the job was "done".
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post #231 of 283 Old 01-22-2015, 09:14 AM
89warwagon
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1989 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: in a yellow house
Posts: 655
Pics are dead for the headlight switch resolder.
can someone show me a pic of what to look for.I have my switch apart because it is flickering but i need to see what and where the bad solder joint looks like.

89 xj 5.5 rubicon express,34" swamper ltb's
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post #232 of 283 Old 01-22-2015, 03:43 PM
JJ_98GC
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1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: West Jordan
Posts: 50
Quote:
Originally Posted by 89warwagon
Pics are dead for the headlight switch resolder. can someone show me a pic of what to look for.I have my switch apart because it is flickering but i need to see what and where the bad solder joint looks like.
Just re-solder them all... It takes like 5 minutes. That's what I did.

My ZJ Build Thread:
https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/1998-grand-cherokee-zj-build-2005585/
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post #233 of 283 Old 01-22-2015, 09:16 PM
vlackattack
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2006 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Albany
Posts: 1,018
x2 it's best to just do all of them. Mine had several things wrong with it, I resoldered all the joints, it fixed the issues. If you don't do them all, you'll end up having to do it again eventually, it's easier to only take the dash apart once lol
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post #234 of 283 Old 01-23-2015, 12:19 AM
89warwagon
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1989 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: in a yellow house
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So you're talking about when you take the white cover off the little dots of solder on the board are the joints that need resoldered?
i tried to take it all the way apart and cant get the fog lamp button off....broke the dimmer button in the process too.
i promise im not retarded hahaha....

friggin chrysler junk....my 89 xj is built so much better....

89 xj 5.5 rubicon express,34" swamper ltb's
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post #235 of 283 Old 01-23-2015, 11:48 AM
JJ_98GC
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1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: West Jordan
Posts: 50
Quote:
Originally Posted by 89warwagon
So you're talking about when you take the white cover off the little dots of solder on the board are the joints that need resoldered? i tried to take it all the way apart and cant get the fog lamp button off....broke the dimmer button in the process too. i promise im not retarded hahaha.... friggin chrysler junk....my 89 xj is built so much better....
Haha yeah you only have to remove the two screws that are holding the white plastic piece on to do the soldering. No need to tear into it any further. If you broke the dimmer - just go to the JY and get a new switch, solder all the joints and install. It'll be like brand new!

My ZJ Build Thread:
https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/1998-grand-cherokee-zj-build-2005585/
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post #236 of 283 Old 02-09-2015, 07:03 AM
LonesomeDove
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1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Moscow
Posts: 12
Hello everybody

After transmisson repair (big trans kit was used, torq converter was rebilt also), so, when I put it to "D" I'm getting like a punch, so it goes too sharp, too hard. In the same time, switching to rear gear is smooth and just perfect.
Guys who made repair saying nothing is wrong, just front band is overtighten.
Is that sounds correct? I do not very trust them and 'd like to doublecheck everythig what they do or what they gonna do.
Any advisments are welcome.

Thank you!

Last edited by LonesomeDove; 02-09-2015 at 11:39 PM.
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post #237 of 283 Old 02-09-2015, 08:14 PM
andreugv
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1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Columbia
Posts: 8
I have tried to follow some of the links on the first post but are not currently working, and I couldn't find it by search. Could someone check them? Will be much appreciated as I have some (If not all) of the problems.

Thank you!
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post #238 of 283 Old 02-09-2015, 08:23 PM
kg6mov
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Fixed version here: https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/s...l#post24142002


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1984 F250, 460 BB, T19, work truck/future tow pig
1987 Mercedes 300D Turbo, the diesel daily, 30mpg in style

Quote:
Originally Posted by Texas ZJ1 View Post
I heard someone yell "mall crawler" from the back porch. I'll go see who said that. Be right back.
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post #239 of 283 Old 02-09-2015, 08:53 PM
RedRiverT
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1997 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 748
Well, I've got a "common ZJ problem" . . . drove home from work, parked it, went out a few hours later and it won't start. Cranks over fine, has pressure at the fuel rail, I can hear the pump come on, but it won't fire at all. When I started it leaving work, it shut off after a few seconds, but restarted fine and ran without a hiccup all the way home. That was the 3rd shut off episode I think since I cleaned my PCM pins a few weeks ago, whereas it was doing it every 2nd or 3rd time I started it before that. Think I'll disconnect the battery for a while and see if resetting the PCM helps. Drove 200-something miles yesterday without a hiccup, but late in the trip when I stopped at a toll booth, I got a CEL which was 0420 catalyst system below threshold. My grounds were cleaned not too long ago, so I guess all the easy things are covered.
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post #240 of 283 Old 02-09-2015, 09:54 PM
RedRiverT
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1997 ZJ 
 
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Went back out, tried it again first, cranked but no fire. Disconnected battery for ~a minute, cranked it, was about to give up, then just as I was letting off the key a couple of cylinders hit. Tried again and it fired a few but died. Tried again with the throttle open and it stumbled and sputtered to life, getting the excess fuel out I guess. It died when I let off the gas, restarted and ran fine at 2k, stumbled and died when I let off, restarted and ran fine at 1500-1800, then I eased it down to 1000 before I let off completely and it ran at idle, but with a stumble, then it just shut off after 5 sec or so. Restarted and ran OK, even idled for a while but still not perfectly, so I shut it off and am left to hope it starts and gets me to work tomorrow.

Got to get a new cat I guess. Missed out on a good deal on one a couple of weeks ago. And then check the header as best I can, hopefully without having to remove the intake. I can hear something under there on a cold start, so there is some sort of problem. Better fix that first. I got a new front NTK O2 sensor from RockAuto on one of their "wholesaler closeout" deals and I need to do more shopping for a rear.
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