Can I cut this? - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 13 Old 06-29-2019, 10:24 PM Thread Starter
Karmana
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Can I cut this?

Team,

Working on my wife's '96 GC again. It's had enough work at this point, that we're hoping to find one with less issues for about $600 - so that means repairs need to be cheap currently. (We bought mine for that price, and the parts jeep with new winter tires for that price, so hoping there's more lol.)

So I replaced the water pump just fine. But, turns out the hose clamp wasn't over the metal nipple, and has cut into the hose there (above the water pump.) I took off the AC compressor, but the little window to see the clamp on the other end of that hose (the 4" or so hose,) isn't large enough to move the clamp, let alone replace the piece of hose.

My question to the group is - can I use a dremel, to cut a notch out of this AC/Alternator bracket, right over the hose, so that I can just reach down and replace it? Basically enlarge the little window over the hose that is there now. I assume I'd have to go slow, use some lube, and keep a fire extinguisher/baking soda on hand in case the aluminum lights.

Thoughts? Easier to just disconnect alternator and remove the bracket instead?

Picture for reference - not mine, but exactly the same.

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post #2 of 13 Old 06-30-2019, 03:19 AM
Ralph77
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Not really an answer but guys grind down the alternator brackets all the time in XJ's when the do the Grand Cherokee/Durango higher amp alternator mod.
It is just a little bigger then a factory one so.....
Not really sure where you want to grind on there but I think the simple answer is why not.
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post #3 of 13 Old 06-30-2019, 09:25 AM Thread Starter
Karmana
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Thanks, Ralph.

Where I'm looking at, is right under the right hand side where the AC compressor goes. There's this tiny window right over the hose clamp (the end you can't reach when replacing the water pump.) Thing is, there's no way you can DO anything with that tiny window other than confirm "yup, there's a hose clamp there." If there were a rectangular cut about 4" long and 2" wide there under the compressor, you could easily replace the hose as needed, without removing anything but the compressor - I think.

I've never removed one of these brackets (on a Jeep,) so wasn't sure exactly what it was until I started looking at the parts pic; wasn't sure if it was actually part of the block with any water channels, etc...
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post #4 of 13 Old 06-30-2019, 10:07 AM
Ralph77
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Some of the guys that do the XJ mod get really close to the holes on the alt bracket when they do it. But then again all that is being supported is the alt.
If you Google the mod I am sure you can see some shots.
You have a Dremel so you can go easy(I own one myself and I like the control you have with it), take off as little as possible, and I am thinking you should be OK.
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post #5 of 13 Old 07-01-2019, 03:46 PM
Jeeples
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Ah, yes, the joys of owning a V8 ZJ...that little bypass hose is a real PITA.

A little wisdom that I've picked up over the years owning both ZJ's ans WJ's:

You can cut anything, if you're brave enough.

So, there you have it, cut away until you've found out that you've cut too far .

Also, I moved this over into the ZJ section, those guys will have a little more insight to modding that bracket.

His: '00 WJ 4.7 Limited- Some stuff

Hers: '03 WJ 4.7 Laredo- Some more stuff


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Quote:
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This is easily the worst post, and thread, I have ever seen in 7 years of being on JF.
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post #6 of 13 Old 07-01-2019, 04:55 PM
Timo_90xj
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Remove serp belt, unbolt P/S pump, remove idler pulley, unbolt aux bracket (roughly five bolts, don't forget about the oil dipstick tube bolt), flip it onto passenger fender with the alt. and a/c compressor still mounted to it. Enjoy tons of room to work.

Installation in reverse order.


Pulling the whole bracket takes about 15- 20minutes if you know what you're doing. About one hour if you don't.

1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX daily driver, 1.75" BB, 32" KM2s, HPD30 Eaton e-locker/D44a stock LSD, 4.56 gears, custom- fabbed tube bumpers and tube fenders,...


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1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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post #7 of 13 Old 07-02-2019, 02:08 AM
Zilliver
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Replace the bypass hose with a silicone hose and dont worry about it ever again.

98 Grand Cherokee 5.9 - daily
'95 Grand Cherokee 5.2 - offroad
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post #8 of 13 Old 07-02-2019, 03:00 AM
Timo_90xj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zilliver View Post
Replace the bypass hose with a silicone hose and dont worry about it ever again.

Nothing wrong with the rubber hose, my original one lasted 18 years

1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX daily driver, 1.75" BB, 32" KM2s, HPD30 Eaton e-locker/D44a stock LSD, 4.56 gears, custom- fabbed tube bumpers and tube fenders,...


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1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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post #9 of 13 Old 07-02-2019, 02:21 PM
firebane
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zilliver View Post
Replace the bypass hose with a silicone hose and dont worry about it ever again.
Something is DRASTICALLY wrong if that bypass hose is leaking.

You'll have more common leaks from either the water pump or the timing cover.

Speaking of timing cover leak
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post #10 of 13 Old 07-07-2019, 11:40 AM
kachink
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Yea, it's pretty much impossible to get that hose replaced without removing the bracket if the water pump is installed. I agree with Timo, just remove the bracket without disconnecting AC hoses. As I recall, if you are replacing the water pump you can put the hose on the pump first and slide the engine side on as you mate the pump up with the block, then all you have to use the access hole in the bracket for is tightening the clamp. You should replace that hose with a quality part any time you have the water pump off.
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post #11 of 13 Old 07-15-2019, 05:28 PM Thread Starter
Karmana
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Thanks, everyone.

I ended up going with Timo's suggestion, and it worked great. Didn't cut it... but DID previously do the cut until it's too far trick with the exhaust Y pipe. It's MUCH easier to get the pan out if you just cut the pipe... lol.

(Played hell getting it resealed though. Note - don't cut it at the corner... stupid stupid stupid.)

The hose was leaking because I replaced the stock hose clamp with a standard modern clamp, and missed the nipple so it cut into the rubber when tightened. It was just a matter of time until it sliced right through the hose.
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post #12 of 13 Old 07-15-2019, 10:47 PM
CatSplat
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Quote:
Originally Posted by firebane View Post
You'll have more common leaks from either the water pump or the timing cover.

Speaking of timing cover leak

Get yourself a Fel-Pro TCS45996 set, the timing gasket is waaay better than the garbage blue paper gaskets all the normal sets have. I chased timing leaks for ages until I put that one in.

1994 5.9L ZJ | IRO 5.5" CPLA | NP242 | 33" Cooper Discoverer STT Pro
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post #13 of 13 Old 07-16-2019, 01:15 AM
Timo_90xj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CatSplat View Post
Get yourself a Fel-Pro TCS45996 set, the timing gasket is waaay better than the garbage blue paper gaskets all the normal sets have. I chased timing leaks for ages until I put that one in.

^- I so agree on that, I'm using the exact same set. The timing cover gasket is a nice metal/ silicone- style, and even though the water pump gaskets are paper(ish), they work very well.

1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX daily driver, 1.75" BB, 32" KM2s, HPD30 Eaton e-locker/D44a stock LSD, 4.56 gears, custom- fabbed tube bumpers and tube fenders,...


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1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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