Jeep Enthusiast Forums banner

Buying a 1997 ZJ for Overlanding

3K views 47 replies 11 participants last post by  Rigged For Adventure 
#1 · (Edited)
Advice for Buying a 1997 ZJ 5.2 V8 for Overlanding

I'm in the market for a 1997 Grand Cherokee ZJ 5.2 V8 Limited. I'm looking to build an overlander and plan on wheeling as well. I've search the forum for old buy threads and they've been useful, but we're somewhat outdated.

I've found a nice 1997 5.2 V8 ZJ that I'll be taking a look at. Is there anything I should keep my eye out for considering my build plans?
 
#2 ·
4.0 or 5.2?

Check for leaks. Make sure the trans shifts good, fluid doesn’t smell burnt. Put the transfer case through its motions. Compression check if possible?
If you’re going to build it for overland I assume you’re lifting it so I wouldn’t worry too much about suspension components unless it looks damage or obviously bent axles.

Others can chime in on more specifics.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#4 ·
Unfortunately sensors aren't really able to be checked by looking at them. Bring a code reader and check for codes and pending codes. If the monitors haven't run it's a good sign they're hiding something and just cleared the codes or the battery was recently replaced.

As for leaks just crawl under and look at the drivetrain. Rear main seal is a common leak area. With a 2 piece seal you can change it without pulling the motor but still something to consider. Transfer case seals like to leak as well as the trans pan gasket. And check ALL the fluids, as always with a used car, who knows where it's been. Steering box front seal is also pretty common.

If you are going to lift it "eventually" then checking suspension bushings and steering linkage may also be a good idea. All of it should be replaced IMO if you plan on any "overlanding" but if it's in good shape then that's a plus and you can drive it in OEM form before throwing more money into it.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#6 ·
No problem. I'm was keeping in mind that any ZJ you find is going to be rather high mileage. And even if it isn't, it's old. I bought mine 8-9 years ago with about 140K and it only needed balljoints and a rear differential rebuild. I'm 3rd owner and mine came with a giant folder of dated receipts for all work done all the way back to the original window sticker so I got lucky.

In all honesty though mine is now at 190K and I neglected servicing it in the past couple years and it fell apart fast. AC needs replacing, heater core barely works. Burns oil like no one's business, trans is in need of its second rebuild, differentials are sloppy, and every single seal imaginable leaks. ABS light is on because of some yet undiagnosed electrical gremlin, and I have no headliner because it fell in and I just took it out. Buying a car with high mileage, especially a solid axle SUV, is almost always going to come with some things needing fixing upon purchase so keep a little room in your budget. If you're lucky you can find one that was well maintained like mine was when I got it but the older they get the harder that is to find.

Don't let my laundry list of problems deter you though. Just throwing in some reality of 20+ year old car ownership. It's all about who owned it before and how they took care of it.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#7 · (Edited)
The rebuilds is what I'm most worried about. There is a pick and pull with plenty of ZJs around my town, but rebuilds I'm not familiar with doing.

Edit: I'm new to the ZJs. What would be the most expensive repair, maintenance, rebuild for ZJs? I'm thinking if I purchase a cheaper ZJ with high miles and repair it as needed it would be cheaper than buying a overpriced ZJ with lower miles.
 
#9 ·
I'm thinking if I purchase a cheaper ZJ with high miles and repair it as needed it would be cheaper than buying a overpriced ZJ with lower miles.
Id rather go with the overpriced one with low miles. But don't mistake low miles for well maintained. It could have low mileage but never maintained and it will leave you stranded a lot sooner than the 200K ZJ that was meticulously maintained.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#8 ·
I get a rebuilt tranny every 75,000 to 100,000 miles for $1,500.

Have almost 290,000 miles on it.

Thank is the only big expense.

Keep up with the oil and diff fluids changes

Mine likes to have water pumps fail in winter every three years.

Sent using Tapatalk
 
#12 ·
Im doing a light overland build with mine. I say light as Im not going to install any permanent fixtures or accessories in the vehicle. I still have to drive it every day so Im opting to be more flexible on my build. I pulled all the carpet and I plan to line the interior and use L track to anchor down accessories and gear. Im also in the process of designing a better roof rail system modeling off of what Rocky Road designed for the upgraded WK rails.
 
#13 ·
Haven't really had any big expenses yet with mine; at least as far as major components go. The biggest cost so far has been all the suspension, which cost me around $2300 or so; but everything is also brand new and upgraded from stock, so you could easily bring that number down if you were so inclined.

Mine has 242k on it and was decently maintained by a one owner family, but I've still needed to fix the rear main and oil pan leak, my front main seal and water pump also need some attention, but they're not leaking too badly. Every aspect of this car has needed some attention, but none of it has been too bad or too costly as it comes to maintenance; even my transmission is in good shape and I've recently serviced it, so hopefully it'll last.

The only thing I haven't seen mentioned yet is the Transfer Case. Watch out for the 249, as it's likely to have a failed viscous coupler at the age of these vehicles now. Mine definitely has some issues, but really hasn't been that much of a problem for me and new 242's are relatively easily sourced from a Junkyard and not too expensive to rebuild. My own rebuild hasn't actually seen too much attention lately, as I've been relatively happy with my 249 and decided to push the project down the list a little bit.

The best part of owning a ZJ so far has been all the people here on this forum; most of these guys have had these vehicles for ages and know each and every nook and cranny and are always ready and willing to offer advice and help when you need it. I couldn't have done even half the stuff I have on my ZJ without them as a resource.
 
#14 ·
^^The quadra-trac (249) transfer case is definitely one of the more common problems with that viscous coupler...I can say however, that my 96 ZJ did 232k before the viscous coupler gave up and that was with a lot of hard offroad miles on it, but it went everywhere I pointed it, and places it shouldn't have gone especially without any sort of limited slip or lockers I was amazed at how well it performed, and that was with Wildcountry XTX tires, no mud terrain tires on it. Loved that Jeep, and currently have a 98 ZJ with the selec-trac and rear limited slip both of which work great, just took a little getting used to with the limited slip as I'd never had a vehicle with limited slip before.

Normal checks of fluids, for leaks, hesitation while driving, shifting issues (although some say the 42RE transmissions are a bit picky) I didn't have any issues with the transmission in my 96 ZJ, and no problems with my 98 ZJ either but both were/are maintained properly with auxiliary tranny coolers. Rear main seal seems quite a common leak and my 98 ZJ has that but very slight. I have the 4L I6 pretty easy to work on and maintain. Not saying the 5.2L V8 wasn't a good engine, they do use a bit more fuel and with a lift, larger tires, etc. it'll get worse fuel economy of course but a great engine though, as was the 5.9L V8's (only available in 98 ZJ's).
 
#15 · (Edited)
Just found "the one". Happened quicker than I thought, but I was pleased with the condition and price. It needs some TLC and repairs, but it's a 97 and I expect it to have some challenges. I don't mind working on the ZJ either.

Here's what I got:
1997 JGC Limited 5.2
166k miles
A/C and ABS not working
Rear hatch shocks not working

Paid $1,600 for it. Thoughts?

The A/C blows, but it's just not cold. I hope it's just a recharge and not anything too serious. The heater works. As for the ABS, I'm not too sure and need to figure that out. Rear hatch shocks isn't a big deal.

I wish this thread was written out: "I Bought a ZJ! Now What?" (https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/ultimate-zj-grand-cherokee-buyer-s-guide-3232801/#post30375801)

I plan on getting the car maintenance and repaired as needed. Didn't notice any leaks prior to buying it, but I'll need to thoroughly check them further and check the condition of the 249 transfer case. Also, want to repair anything that might cause the "death wobble".

What do you guys recommend I do first? What'd you do when you first bought your ZJ? I'm stoked for this build, but want to start with making sure she runs healthy.
 
#16 ·
Before recharging the A/C, pull a vacuum on the system and check for leaks. I removed most of my A/C because I didn't want to track down the leak and hoping someday to convert the compressor to OBA.

First thing is check for leaks anywhere. Address those and while doing it replace fluids, tune up, check exhaust system. Then tackle the suspension. Consider the OME 2.5 inch lift for your overland build. If you plan on lifting, do it correctly. Replace all the components with new and correct parts. That will eliminate any DW. The 249 is a wonderful case, and the VC really isn't that big of a deal other than it isn't cheap.

Contact Kolak for parts. PM here or kolak@aol.com

consider sending the old oil in for analysis to see what might be hiding in the engine.
 
#18 ·
Pretty much where I've started.

Rear Main
Oil pan gasket/Oil pump
New belt
New tie rod, drag link and track bar
New Exhaust
Transmission drain/fill and band adjustment, with new Dorman pan
New control arms
New springs/shocks

Pretty much where I'm at right now. There's been little odds and ends here and there, but nothing major.
 
#23 ·
And after looking at the two kits you mentioned is the Rock Link kit does long arm in the front only. The Pro kit has the better front control arm setup as well as both track bars being double shear.
 
#26 ·
Any lift kit will work. All you need to do is swap yokes to a ujoint in front if the diff has a cv shaft. There are also cv to ujoint adapters that will work.
Replacing the front yolk requires you to blow the diff apart, replace the crush sleeve, and reset pinion preload. If you have the tools/skills its not a tough task but one that must be kept in mind.

Can you provide links for the cv to ujoint adapter? Ive looked and I am coming up short.
 
#28 ·
You don't even need a new crush sleeve if you don't overrun the torque. Swapping the yoke or replacing the seal can be done without pulling the whole enchilada apart.
 
#31 ·
I've been looking at RockAuto for parts. Is there a one-stop-shop guide on the exact part numbers for ZJs (specifically 1997s if it's different)?

As for the maintenance I'll be doing since I picked up my ZJ, here is the list I've composed with your guys' help. Is there anything else I should get checked?

Maintenance:
- Check for leaks (rear, main)
- Replace all fluids
- Tune up
- Check exhaust system
- Oil pan gasket
- Oil pump
- New belt
- New hoses
- Transmission drain/fill and band adjustment
- New dorman pan
- New filters
 
#40 ·
Just ordered the Felpro plenum kit from Hughes. Going to give that a try.

On another note, I'm on RockAuto and I'm searching through parts and wondering what exactly is the difference between "Standard Volume" and "High Volume"? For example, I'm searching for a new oil pump for my 97 JGC 5.2L and I'm not exactly sure which one I should be getting since there's multiple options under both volume types.
 
#41 ·
If you don’t know why you need a high volume oil pump you want the standard one.

If you have a stock oiling system you want the standard flow pump. Melling is a pretty good brand.
 
#43 ·
Well I just ordered a bunch of new parts from Hughes and RockAuto for my ZJ. She will be healthy soon!

  • Hughes Plenum Repair Kit w/ Fel-Pro Gaskets
  • Dorman Oil Pan
  • Dorman Water Pump Stud Kit
  • Fel-Pro Oil Pan Gasket
  • Fel-Pro Valve Cover Gasket
  • Fel-Pro Water Pump Gasket
  • Gates Water Pump
  • Gates Drive Belt
  • Gates Idler Pulley
  • Gates Belt Tensioner
  • Hayden Radiator Fan Clutch
  • Melling Oil Pump
  • Strongarm Liftgate Support (R/L)
  • Strongarm Back Glass Lift (x2)
  • Wix Oil Filter

Getting these installed along with a full service. If there's anything else I should get please chime in.
 
#44 ·
Since you picked up the oil pan gasket and the oil pump, you'll be into the pan, so pick up the rear main seal and do it while you're in there.

Avoid Omix-Ada if you can, I've had several pieces from them that were straight up wrong, including a rear main.

With all the other stuff you got, you're going to be busy for awhile!

Sent from my moto x4 using Tapatalk
 
#47 ·
Motor and tranny mounts I'd recommend Ironman Fab
I happen to haver a brand new 2-hole tranny mount that was incorrectly ordered as well. LMK via PM if you are interested.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top