98 ZJ plenum chamber problem - Page 2 - JeepForum.com
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post #16 of 29 Old 09-30-2021, 02:13 PM
Timo_90xj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by giacomom View Post
The bits for hardened steel that are configured like masonry bits could it be like these ?
545701 SDX Fischer
No, those are masonry drill bits and do nothing on steel.

Like zjosh mentioned above, carbide drill bits aren't exactly the tool for the novice. Basically you don't want to use them with a handheld drill, and even with a drill press you gotta know what you're doing to not break the drill bit.

Remove the cylinder head, see if you can drill from the bottom. I honestly no longer remember if the intake manifold bolt holes go through the stock cylinder heads or not. If you can't remove the bolt, ask how much a machine shop would charge you to remove it.


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1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

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post #17 of 29 Old 10-04-2021, 06:13 PM
kalpol
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I'm no help, just wanted to say good luck, I'm rooting for you. I broke one on mine but it was the one at the front that went through, I just put a nut on the other side of it. (then learned helicoils existed after I put it all back together)
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post #18 of 29 Old 10-05-2021, 02:16 AM Thread Starter
giacomom
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kalpol thank you for your support,
but i didn't understand how you managed to remove the broken bolt .... also for me the bolt that I cannot remove (the other 3 have been removed) remained the one in the front right corner


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post #19 of 29 Old 10-05-2021, 05:25 PM
kalpol
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Originally Posted by giacomom View Post
kalpol thank you for your support,
but i didn't understand how you managed to remove the broken bolt .... also for me the bolt that I cannot remove (the other 3 have been removed) remained the one in the front right corner


Giacomo
Mine is the 5.2L so may be different. But the very front driver side intake manifold bolt just bolts into a flange there where you can reach the bottom. I just drilled through it with a drill bit rated for metal and kept dripping oil on it to keep it cool. I screwed the manifold on with a couple of bolts and used the bolt hole in the manifold as the guide until the hole got started, this took a lot of care but it worked. once you have it out you can get a helicoil kit and helicoil the threads for the original size bolt if you have to.

Or soak the stub of the bolt in penetrating oil overnight, and try getting the hole started then using the extractor on it.

I used a Dewalt bit rated for metal that I got at the hardware store, nothing too special.

I don't know what happens if the bolt metal gets too hard to drill. Just keep trying I guess, with a good bit and oil on it to keep it cool.
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post #20 of 29 Old 10-05-2021, 05:39 PM
kg6mov
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5.2 is identical as far as intake and heads are concerned.


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post #21 of 29 Old 10-06-2021, 01:35 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by kalpol View Post
Mine is the 5.2L so may be different. But the very front driver side intake manifold bolt just bolts into a flange there where you can reach the bottom. I just drilled through it with a drill bit rated for metal and kept dripping oil on it to keep it cool. I screwed the manifold on with a couple of bolts and used the bolt hole in the manifold as the guide until the hole got started, this took a lot of care but it worked. once you have it out you can get a helicoil kit and helicoil the threads for the original size bolt if you have to.

Or soak the stub of the bolt in penetrating oil overnight, and try getting the hole started then using the extractor on it.

I used a Dewalt bit rated for metal that I got at the hardware store, nothing too special.

I don't know what happens if the bolt metal gets too hard to drill. Just keep trying I guess, with a good bit and oil on it to keep it cool.

5.2 is equal to 5.9 and it too has the opening under the bolts, but I don't understand how this particularity can help in extracting the broken bolt ....

I believe that this bolt has obviously hardened even more since I welded a nut at the tip, but with poor results

now I'm waiting for a friend of mine to bring me some widia bits but with the right cutting angle, let's hope ....


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post #22 of 29 Old 10-06-2021, 05:20 AM
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Try a left hand twist drill bit

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post #23 of 29 Old 10-06-2021, 07:43 AM Thread Starter
giacomom
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Try a left hand twist drill bit

Thank you ravenworks

but I see it very unlikely, as the nut welded to the tip of the broken bolt, once unscrewed, broke the bolt again ....


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post #24 of 29 Old 10-06-2021, 12:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by giacomom View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by ravenworks View Post
Try a left hand twist drill bit

Thank you ravenworks

but I see it very unlikely, as the nut welded to the tip of the broken bolt, once unscrewed, broke the bolt again ....


Giacomo
Do a Google search about removing broken bolts and studs with a left hand twist bit, it may be the best $5 you spent
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post #25 of 29 Old 10-06-2021, 12:26 PM
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And definitely soak it good in penetrating oil. At this point I'd do the left-hand metal cutting bit, use the manifold as the guide (except don't mess up the mating surfaces), soak the bolt in penetrating oil overnight, and it should come out or if it's the one you can reach the other side of, just drill it out and install a Helicoil of the proper size (make sure you have the right size bit for this too.
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post #26 of 29 Old 10-08-2021, 01:53 PM
kalpol
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Quote:
Originally Posted by giacomom View Post
5.2 is equal to 5.9 and it too has the opening under the bolts, but I don't understand how this particularity can help in extracting the broken bolt ....
It means you can in theory drill all the way through if the bolt won't come out. Just get the helicoil kit for that size bolt, use a good drill bit of the right size for the helicoil, and another smaller good drill bit. Make a new small hole there using the manifold as a guide then drill it out to the helicoil size, tap it, screw in the helicoil, and put a new bolt in it.
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post #27 of 29 Old 10-09-2021, 07:52 AM
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Glad someone confirmed at least the front bolts are open on the bottom, I thought I was going crazy. I tried to go out and look at my 5.9 but couldnt see down in there with everything in place.

Other than the coolant possibly leaking around the bolts, Ive always thought thats why those corner bolts wont come out easily.... The bottom being open leaves it exposed to the environment.

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post #28 of 29 Old 10-09-2021, 11:56 AM
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I actually remembered I have a few pictures showing the front intake bolts in the heads - holes definitely go through:






1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX daily driver, 1.75" BB, 32" KM2s, HPD30 Eaton e-locker/D44a stock LSD, 4.56 gears, custom- fabbed tube bumpers and tube fenders,...


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1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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post #29 of 29 Old 10-16-2021, 01:29 AM Thread Starter
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Update
I managed to extract the broken bolt in the head, with the widia bits with the right cutting angle.


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