94 jeep grand cherokee brake problem - Page 2 - JeepForum.com
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post #16 of 29 Old 08-22-2014, 09:19 PM Thread Starter
NicCocco18
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No brake lights come on, no abs or anything. I'm unfamiliar with the brake pistons. I'm not sure exactly what to do here. It's becoming very frustrating!

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post #17 of 29 Old 08-23-2014, 02:20 PM
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Are you saying you have no rear brake lights or the lights on the dash for brake or abs never come on once the ignition is turned on? If your rear brake lights aren't working check #8 fuse in the fuse block under the dash which may be under the passenger side kick panel access.

https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/f.../#post13145618

The piston is the round part in the middle of the brake caliper caliper which is pushed out by fluid on the back of the inner pad. There's also a piston in the MC which pushes fluid through the the whole system. I don't think either one of these are related to your problems although you can have air trapped behind both kinds of pistons or the piston seals in the calipers are bad leaking out fluid or pulling in air.

Did you ever try bleeding the whole brake system again? Sounds like someone really screwed up your brake system and maybe that's why they sold it?

96 4.0 ZJ Laredo, 2004 4.7L WJ Limited, 96 4.0 XJ (son's)


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post #18 of 29 Old 08-23-2014, 11:46 PM Thread Starter
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The cherokee wasn't ever for sale, I knocked on the guys door interested in it. The brake lights work, but no warning signs come on the dash after the cars started. They all come on at first but that's normal. I have tryed bleeding the brakes the regular way but barely anything comes out. I'm gonna hook a pump to it and try to push brake fluid through the lines
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post #19 of 29 Old 08-24-2014, 09:25 AM
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Ok, understand now that your brake lighting is normal. Are your lines real rusted because I've had to replace lots of brake lines which were rusted inside and out on Jeeps newer than yours.

Instead of investing the money in a Motive Power Bleeder I've read where some just find an extra reservoir cap and install a schroeder/air valve in the top then push the fluid through the system with an air compressor while keeping the reservoir full. Regardless if you're going to go this route with a compressor, or try pushing the fluid through the lines with a pump, don't use very high-pressure and 10-15 psi is the spec for the power bleeder.

Did you ever bench bleed your master cylinder to try and get all the air out? It's fairly critical to do this or you're never going to have pressure.

96 4.0 ZJ Laredo, 2004 4.7L WJ Limited, 96 4.0 XJ (son's)


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post #20 of 29 Old 08-24-2014, 10:13 AM Thread Starter
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That's exactly what we were doing, using an old cps and a hose attached to it and a new pesticide sprayer with about ten pounds of pressure. Current problem is the cap leaking. Going to try new technique soon. I think we read the same thing online about this idea
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post #21 of 29 Old 08-24-2014, 11:08 AM
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Plastic weld epoxy or JB Weld would most likely seal any adapter you put in the middle of the cap. Of course all the brake fluid would need to be cleaned off 1st and these products take almost 24 hours to fully set up. The epoxy may be a shorter time frame if you don't have the time to wait.

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post #22 of 29 Old 08-24-2014, 07:13 PM Thread Starter
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So today we bled the brakes. Hooked our contraption up to the bleeder valves and pushed fluid through all lines but one. I don't think that's our problem. 1. Is the MC reservoir supposed to be level? Like not angled? Because it's angled at the same angle of the brake booster. I have the old reservoir from the bad MC and that's a level fit. 2. Where the MC connects to the brake booster there's an air sound? As if the o ring isn't keeping pressure in when pumping the brakes? I'm considering taking the mc off and putting the original reservoir on it that's a level fit as well as checking the connection between the BB and MC. What do y'all think?
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post #23 of 29 Old 08-24-2014, 08:51 PM Thread Starter
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I believe I found the problem. The brake booster wasnt correctly installed. I feel like a ****ing retard, the metal rod coming out of the brake booster that pushes the MC wasn't in the right spot.
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post #24 of 29 Old 08-24-2014, 08:52 PM Thread Starter
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post #25 of 29 Old 08-24-2014, 11:22 PM
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Well that sure isn't good but at least you found what the problem! Is the MC ok where the piston rod is being pushed by the bent/broken booster piece?

96 4.0 ZJ Laredo, 2004 4.7L WJ Limited, 96 4.0 XJ (son's)


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post #26 of 29 Old 08-25-2014, 10:25 AM Thread Starter
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Yes it looks fine. Just two little scratches, trying to did the push rod piece but it doesn't seem to be sold separately from the brake booster
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post #27 of 29 Old 08-25-2014, 10:37 AM
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Figured you'd have to put another brake booster on it since those parts may not be sold separately. BTW, while those internal parts look like new I thought you put a whole new booster on it along with the MC? Noticed the rust on the booster housing along with where the MC connects so is this a new booster?

96 4.0 ZJ Laredo, 2004 4.7L WJ Limited, 96 4.0 XJ (son's)


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post #28 of 29 Old 08-25-2014, 03:47 PM Thread Starter
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It was a new booster, but the MC was hooked up to the bad BB for a few months. Hooked up the new brake booster today and bled the brakes. Brakes are now working!
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post #29 of 29 Old 08-25-2014, 07:48 PM
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Good deal and glad you got it fixed!

96 4.0 ZJ Laredo, 2004 4.7L WJ Limited, 96 4.0 XJ (son's)


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1994 zj , brake bleeding , brake failure , grandcherokee , v8

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