5.9 distributor removal?? - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 5 Old 06-04-2017, 12:09 PM Thread Starter
Bodybuilder21
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5.9 distributor removal??

So with my insanely busy schedule, today I have a few hours to show the 5.9 some love. However; I cannot get my stock distributor out...i've pulled pretty hard but seeing as I am the king of breaking **** I figured I'd as for some advice before I muscle it out like an idiot......granted. It's pretty seized in there..just like the rest of the motor! I have a replacement ATK to drop in so I need this distributor for the time being with OEM rotation assem. and (as long as the block isn't cracked) this is my stroker build motor so none of the stock components mean diddly overall.. I just need the distributor and block intact..and most of the internals for measuring/comparison bs.

Thanks!


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post #2 of 5 Old 06-04-2017, 01:07 PM
Timo_90xj
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If you have removed the securing clamp (held on with the single bolt at the base of the distributor), distributor should come out without using much force at all.
If it's not coming out, all I can say try - carefully - hitting the area of the distributor base where it mates to the block with something. Maybe there is a small amount of corrosion which makes it so stubborn to come out.

Btw., did you mark the distributor & block before trying to pull/ wiggle the distributor out? It should go back in exactly like it was in the hole to have the fuel sync at correct adjustment. Even if you do try to line it up as good as possible, it's always a good idea to have the fuel sync. checked afterwards.

1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX daily driver, 1.75" BB, 32" KM2s, HPD30 Eaton e-locker/D44a stock LSD, 4.56 gears, custom- fabbed tube bumpers and tube fenders,...


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post #3 of 5 Old 06-04-2017, 01:35 PM Thread Starter
Bodybuilder21
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Location: Philly
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Timo_90xj View Post
If you have removed the securing clamp (held on with the single bolt at the base of the distributor), distributor should come out without using much force at all.
If it's not coming out, all I can say try - carefully - hitting the area of the distributor base where it mates to the block with something. Maybe there is a small amount of corrosion which makes it so stubborn to come out.

Btw., did you mark the distributor & block before trying to pull/ wiggle the distributor out? It should go back in exactly like it was in the hole to have the fuel sync at correct adjustment. Even if you do try to line it up as good as possible, it's always a good idea to have the fuel sync. checked afterwards.
Yes I had already notched out a check line before even taking out the retainer bolt. It's freiggen jammed in there and I', not sure how to go about it (easily.) Since the motor seized I can't manually crank the engine so I can't make top dead center in cyl #1 which is advised upon removal...I'm already dropped a ton of cash on replacing the motor, all the sensors etc. and don't feel like replacing my distributor until the stroker motor is complete ...some one throw some knowledge at me!!!

Niner-Rebuilt 360+goodies; built re46
96'-4.0 5.5";4.56; locked- 4.6L/5spd in progress
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post #4 of 5 Old 06-04-2017, 08:25 PM
HighLonesome
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Try moving the crank counterclockwise a tad using a ratchet/socket on the crank bolt.
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post #5 of 5 Old 06-30-2017, 10:27 AM Thread Starter
Bodybuilder21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HighLonesome View Post
Try moving the crank counterclockwise a tad using a ratchet/socket on the crank bolt.
I tried doing that first and it wouldn't budge. I did however get it out! I rocked it back and forth while pulling upwards with it and it popped out...the fun part is going to be putting it back in and setting it right the first time

Niner-Rebuilt 360+goodies; built re46
96'-4.0 5.5";4.56; locked- 4.6L/5spd in progress
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