All the standard stuff.
New timing chain + gears. Disassemble and clean oil pump pickup tube, don't forget to prime the pump. Remove / replace all freeze plugs, I scraped clean everything possible on the block and heads cooling passages interior, I used brass freeze plugs for better sealing. Many lifters on mine collapsed, I was able to restore normal operation by disassembling all followed by severe cleaning then reassembly.
The FSM does not specify thread locker on the flex plate bolts, to the crankshaft and to the torque converter. Thread locker is required.
Use ONLY OEM sensors for oil pressure and CPS. Remove both before removing engine.
If remaining w/ OEM plenum pan, chase the blind holes and the bolts, ensure they will hand tighten w/o the pan so that they will properly tighten per the FSM w/ all parts installed, as-shown in
this reply. Follow
TSB 09-05-00 for installation. Use new plenum bolts, as they stretch to torque.
Make a table showing bolts and studs locations for each rocker cover prior to removal. Thank me now or later for this gem.
The Miller 6635 tool is required for proper timing cover placement.
Implement the
TSB 18-48-98 for the spark plug wire routing.
Chances are the original rocker cover grommets have gotten hard. I replaced mine w/ the Mopar 0294 6079 Crankcase Vent Grommet and the Mopar 5303 0017 Crankcase Vent Grommet. They can be a butt pain to replace but the new ones work better than the old.
When I replaced the rear main seal the second time I installed it w/ 30° rotation, so the halves don't meet at the block surface. It leaked the first time, per the FSM. It didn't leak the second time w/ the rotation.
The FSM-specified bolts for oil pan gasket placement are very handy, as-shown in
this reply.
This reply has some good info and images.
The dipstick tube is made from unobtainium, so do not damage that part.