5.2 Stalling - Page 2 - JeepForum.com
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post #16 of 69 Old 07-11-2021, 09:42 AM Thread Starter
Hempinfool
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I could have stated that I don't have any codes in a better way.
I have codes 12 and 55 as I should.
I meant that I don't have any abnormal ones.

The Bafx states that it only works on OBD2.
Will it work on OBD1?

I do have an OBDLinkMX+ that I use on my newer crap.
It also states only OBD2.

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post #17 of 69 Old 07-11-2021, 04:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hempinfool View Post
I could have stated that I don't have any codes in a better way.
I have codes 12 and 55 as I should.
I meant that I don't have any abnormal ones.

The Bafx states that it only works on OBD2.
Will it work on OBD1?

I do have an OBDLinkMX+ that I use on my newer crap.
It also states only OBD2.

Yeah not going to work with obd1.


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post #18 of 69 Old 07-12-2021, 10:11 AM
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My 1996 had this problem. I'm racking my head to remember what I did, but it was cheap.
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post #19 of 69 Old 07-12-2021, 11:22 AM Thread Starter
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I'm still putting a couple of hours a day into this.

To sum up findings thus far:
I have found mild corrosion on every grounding point. Sanded and reinstalled.
General crap on every fuse lug. Checked and cleaned fuses.
Relays were either replaced or swapped.
Multiple wires not connected and fuses not installed. Probably like that since transplant.
EGR vacuum line off. Reinstalled.
Vacuum cap missing. Replaced.
Oil looked like crap. Replaced
Throttle Position Sensor replaced. Only because I found one laying around.

So I have little confidence that I have fixed it!
But it's almost time to drive it again.
Stay tuned!
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post #20 of 69 Old 07-12-2021, 07:44 PM
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You know it might be bad gas with too much alky.
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post #21 of 69 Old 07-13-2021, 08:47 AM
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Those are all issues. But not it. Did you test fuel pressure? There is no code for running dry at the injectors. I'm going to have to go out and talk to the jeep, see where I molested it last.
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post #22 of 69 Old 07-13-2021, 08:59 AM
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The fuel pump can warm up and die. Then it cools down and will pump again. And no codes.


Run an additional 10ga ground from the battery- to the engine harness ground at the ignition coil and to the chassis. A single run with 3 connections. I did this on all my ZJs. I've had a few stalls, one was IAC, another was the engine harness ground, and another was fuel pump.


edit, snapped some pics, I always get a group 34/78 battery with top and side posts
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post #23 of 69 Old 07-15-2021, 09:10 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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You know it might be bad gas with too much alky.
I ruled this out because it has been going on intermittently for 6 months and I usually run it low before refueling.

Should I reinvestigate this?
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post #24 of 69 Old 07-15-2021, 09:12 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skypilot123 View Post
Those are all issues. But not it. Did you test fuel pressure? There is no code for running dry at the injectors. I'm going to have to go out and talk to the jeep, see where I molested it last.
This cause was high on my list. I ordered a fuel pressure gauge 2 weeks ago and it still hasn't shipped from Autometer.

I will give it another week before changing plans.
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post #25 of 69 Old 07-16-2021, 07:57 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HighLonesome View Post
The fuel pump can warm up and die. Then it cools down and will pump again. And no codes.

Run an additional 10ga ground from the battery- to the engine harness ground at the ignition coil and to the chassis. A single run with 3 connections. I did this on all my ZJs. I've had a few stalls, one was IAC, another was the engine harness ground, and another was fuel pump.
I guess I belong to the HighLonesome Camp as far as grounding goes. I already had an extra ground from the battery to the engine and to the firewall. I even double-checked for corrosion.
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post #26 of 69 Old 07-16-2021, 08:05 AM Thread Starter
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Update

I started it and let it run for 15 minutes and proceeded to a gas station 20 minutes away.
No issues during the trip.

But when I got home, the idle RPM was "surging" 1100-1300 in Park.
I revved the gas but no difference afterward. The RPM was normal and steady in Drive.

I shut the engine off and the RPM returned to a steady 700ish.

It's always something....
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post #27 of 69 Old 07-17-2021, 07:09 AM
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Check your PVC valve, Sometime they leak and allow air into the intake(raising the idle). Block it off and see if it still does it. If so it's probably the iac.
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post #28 of 69 Old 07-18-2021, 12:36 PM Thread Starter
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I replaced the Idle Air Controller and checked the PVC Valve.

I started it and it was idle rpm was high until the IAC adjusted after 5 seconds.
I went on a 30-minute ride and as soon as you put it in Park, the idle goes to 1300ish.
I put it in drive and went to normal and back in Park, and back to 1300.
If you shut it off and restart it, it's back to normal 700.

The only good part in all of this is that it didn't stall for the second straight time!

Does the fact that restarting it fixes the issue, exclude a Vacuum leak?
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post #29 of 69 Old 07-18-2021, 04:51 PM
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Disconnect the battery for a minute to reset the computer and see if it relearns.


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post #30 of 69 Old 07-20-2021, 09:03 AM
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I think you got a bad IAC or the pigtail is broken or marginal. My 03 had a bad pigtail on the IAC. Drove me nuts but I found it. You may have the same. Try pushing and wiggling in on the IAC connector.
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