5.2/5.9 CPS location? - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 23 Old 12-19-2007, 06:14 PM Thread Starter
Nurburgringer
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5.2/5.9 CPS location?

hi all,
Sorry but I've been searching the archives for a while and read through the FAQ and cannot find any threads/info on where exactly the crankshaft position sensor is on my '98 5.9L.

Was all ready to do this tonight - have a new set of Accel plugs/wires/dist cap to put on at the same time, so took off the passenger side exhaust manifold heat shield like the Haynes manual says (slicing a finger tip pretty good on the edge in the process...) and can't see anything down there that looks like the new CPS I bought.
Crawled underneath, also nada.
Am I looking in the right place?!

appreciate any advice, need to get here back on the road!

cheers
Kurt
[email protected]
Philly

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post #2 of 23 Old 12-20-2007, 08:17 AM
HighLonesome
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Its bolted onto the rear of the block on the passenger's side by two allen screws. The bellhousing has a notch in it for clearance of the sensor. You get to it from the top. Look for the cable (2-wire) coming up from it. Removing the ignition cables help, but it's still a bear to get at. If you have EGR, that makes it even worse.

If you can't find it, I'll snap a pic. My motor is out on a stand, so no problem.
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post #3 of 23 Old 12-20-2007, 11:59 AM Thread Starter
Nurburgringer
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thanks 5.9 - but I found it this morning and replaced the [email protected]!

on a scale of 1 to 10 busted knuckles, I rate this job a solid 7. Not an 8 because there were no broken studs or rounded bolt heads, but higher than a 6 because you will:
- curse at least 200 times doing this job
- drop a socket/hex down through the engine at least 20 times (once nestling in a nook behind the CPS bracket causing you to search around blindly with your fingers for 5 minutes)
- bleed from multiple hand wounds
- take at least 2 hours to replace what should be a 10 minute job. If you have the means (I didn't, working in a parking lot) and can lower the transmission a few inches it would probably make things quite a bit easier.

If not, you really need to be able to 'see' with your hands, since this f$%@er is completely out of site right behind and below the passenger side rocker cover.

Once locating the b!tch the outer hex bolt came out easily enough using a 1/2" socket+universal+>12" of extensions. Once out you'll see that these bolts can also take a 1/4 allen in the middle, which is necessary since the inner bolt is right up against the block (no room at all for a socket).

May I humbly suggest this be added to the FAQ to save the next unsuspecting soul an extra trip to the store??

So, after a second walk to the hardware store for a 1/4 allen drive for my ratchet got the second bolt out, wrestled with the plug for a bit, then put the new one in.

The bolts went in easier than they came out, however the lower electrical plug was a freakin c$%t! Another 1/2" of wire length would have been great, it literally took me 15 minutes to put this simple plug back together...

After that installing the Accel wires/plugs/dist cap with wires routed according to the TSB was a snap, and the SOB started up on the first crank like a lion.

Next job: driver's door hinge bushings

Kurt
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post #4 of 23 Old 12-20-2007, 12:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nurburgringer
Next job: driver's door hinge bushings

Kurt
On to greener pastures! At least you can see them.
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post #5 of 23 Old 12-21-2007, 07:04 AM Thread Starter
Nurburgringer
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right on

hey 5.9 - do you know why the side mirrors (both) on my 5.9 might be tipping down evertime I use the keyless unlock? I've put them in the right position and reset both memory buttons on the door numerous times, but damned if the don't tip down everytime (almost like a night mode, which I like, AT NIGHT! they do this if the headlights are on or off).

Maybe they are designed to automatically do this at night, and there's a light sensor that's bad?

thanks!
Kurt
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post #6 of 23 Old 12-21-2007, 08:14 AM
HighLonesome
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nurburgringer
right on

hey 5.9 - do you know why the side mirrors (both) on my 5.9 might be tipping down evertime I use the keyless unlock? I've put them in the right position and reset both memory buttons on the door numerous times, but damned if the don't tip down everytime (almost like a night mode, which I like, AT NIGHT! they do this if the headlights are on or off).

Maybe they are designed to automatically do this at night, and there's a light sensor that's bad?

thanks!
Kurt
I've read about dirt on some sensor in the mirror. Pretty sure you just need to clean something somewhere. Sorry can't be more specific.
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post #7 of 23 Old 12-21-2007, 09:00 AM
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yep, I am dreading this project...just curious - what were the symptoms of your CPS going bad??? MY ZJ w/ 5.2 (132,000 miles) requires excessive cranking to start, (only cold starts) and I have replaced a lot- TPS, cleaned IAC numerous times, cleaned throttle body, new plugs,cap,wires but I haven't tackled the CPS. I am not getting any codes and other than excessive cranking 10 seconds or so when it is cold it runs & idles like a champ. After a warm up or driving and a shut down for 10 minutes or so it fires right up. I was going to tackle the CPS next to see if this would eliminate my cold, hard starts. Thanks!

97' ZJ Limited V8 - 5.2 liter
94' YJ 4.0 ho -SE -
past jeeps: 89' YJ
87' YJ Laredo
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post #8 of 23 Old 12-21-2007, 09:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trickle26
yep, I am dreading this project...just curious - what were the symptoms of your CPS going bad??? MY ZJ w/ 5.2 (132,000 miles) requires excessive cranking to start, (only cold starts) and I have replaced a lot- TPS, cleaned IAC numerous times, cleaned throttle body, new plugs,cap,wires but I haven't tackled the CPS. I am not getting any codes and other than excessive cranking 10 seconds or so when it is cold it runs & idles like a champ. After a warm up or driving and a shut down for 10 minutes or so it fires right up. I was going to tackle the CPS next to see if this would eliminate my cold, hard starts. Thanks!
One of the symptoms is random stalling.

Try a new gas cap first just because they are cheap.

Your problem could be bad fuel pump or leaky injector. Try cycling the key 3 or 4 times from off to run (don't try to start) before you start in the morning. You should hear the fuel pump run for a second or two each time attempting to prime the system. If the starts get easier, you're likely losing fuel pressure back through the pump or out an injector.
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post #9 of 23 Old 02-16-2008, 01:36 PM
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would jackin front body of car up help? Anyone got a pic pointin to where cps is?
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post #10 of 23 Old 02-16-2008, 01:38 PM
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would jackin front body of car up help? Anyone got a pic pointin to where cps is? My jeep has stopped my spark would cps be it?
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post #11 of 23 Old 07-06-2020, 05:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nurburgringer View Post
thanks 5.9 - but I found it this morning and replaced the [email protected]!


The bolts went in easier than they came out, however the lower electrical plug was a freakin c$%t! Another 1/2" of wire length would have been great, it literally took me 15 minutes to put this simple plug back together...


Kurt
I'm trying to do this on my 5.9. One question, where is the connector for the CPS on the 5.9? I'm following the wires from it, and they seem to go away from the engine, down under the car, into some large harness with a lot of wires? On all the guides and videos I've found for the V8, the connector appears to be on top of the engine, so I'm a bit confused.

When you plugged in the new CPS to the connector, did you do it from under the car?
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post #12 of 23 Old 07-07-2020, 02:31 AM
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pelle2 - under the car, next to the front O2 sensor.

98 Grand Cherokee 5.9 - daily
95 Grand Cherokee 5.2 - offroad
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post #13 of 23 Old 07-07-2020, 06:34 AM
pelle2
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Thank you! Don't know why I thought it was on top.

Been out there 4 hours now trying to get the DAMN hex bolts loose... Still no success.
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post #14 of 23 Old 07-07-2020, 11:40 AM
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Ok, got the hex bolts out finally! What seems more problematic is the connector.. I can't really unplug it with one hand, and I can't get both hands in there, there's no space. I cut the wires from the old sensor to get it out, the connector is still connected, need to figure out how to disconnect it.

Also, I think I found what the problem with the old sensor was, the lead in at least one of the wires was visible, the plastic around it had melted!


Is this known to happen?

Also, is this level of gooey brown junk on the sensor normal?
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post #15 of 23 Old 07-07-2020, 12:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pelle2 View Post
I cut the wires from the old sensor to get it out, the connector is still connected, need to figure out how to disconnect it.
IIRC CPS connector has a red lock pin you first need to push open sideways, then push on the release tab and disconnect. Or it could be just a normal connector with single release tab, I honestly can't remember.
Suitable- sized pliers are your friend in that spot, same thing if you're working with the O2 sensor. I remember when I had to replace my front O2- sensor in -15C I got pretty good frostbites on both of my hands due to touching the cold unibody/ transmission/ exhaust. That area sucks big time getting the connectors open.

Quote:
Also, is this level of gooey brown junk on the sensor normal?
Rear main seal and/ or transmission oil pump/ torque converter seal is leaking.

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