360 magnum: looking for the correct cam, plus some more infos on engine rebuild - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 9 Old 03-06-2020, 11:54 AM Thread Starter
Mark-318-IT
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360 magnum: looking for the correct cam, plus some more infos on engine rebuild

Hi guys,

i'm rebuilding a 1998 5.9 coming from a ZJ, to swap in my zj that currently has a 318 with bolt ons.
bolt ons: can tune, ram air, spectre 4" air hat, kn air filter, 2x52tb, magnaflow exhaust (cat and muffler) and 1.7 HS roller rockers.
i'm looking for a cam that hits hard with a good deep roaring sound for street/strip usage. probably gonna be ryan tuned (instead of my can tune).
i honestly don't know much about cams.
any advice? what should i look for? any useful link to read stricktly on magnums?
i'm gonna install the bolt ons on the niner, so the cam needs to work with my RRs

also, any link or material on a 360 rebuild would be much appreciate.
gonna update this with progress.

again, if you have something for sale let me know.
thanks


98ZG318ltd:np242swap,shift kit,BOLT ONs,ome HD coils,aussie locker,dana30hp trussed
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post #2 of 9 Old 03-06-2020, 12:48 PM
Timo_90xj
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I think you posted this on Flyin' Ryan performance FB group as well? Those guys have a TON of knowledge, just skip the absolutely horrible BS you often see in between posts As for the tuning part, look no elsewhere - Ryan is the guy.

For the cam choices I'd look at HipoTek website - they've got a nice selection of custom grinds for just about every taste from low-end torque to high horses at high RPMs.
I ordered my Hughes FI Airgap and some other goodies from HipoTek, shipped to Finland. Price wasn't that bad, but shipping across the ocean is never cheap if you're still located in Italy.
If you go with a bigger lift cam, 1.7 rockers might be an issue. I am honestly not 100% sure, but I could imagine you might run into valvetrain geometry issues especially with non- adjustable rockers. Then again, aren't HS rockers adjustable?

Also remember to look at Ryan's 5.2/ 5.9 flowchart for performance gains!
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1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX daily driver, 1.75" BB, 32" KM2s, HPD30 Eaton e-locker/D44a stock LSD, 4.56 gears, custom- fabbed tube bumpers and tube fenders,...


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1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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post #3 of 9 Old 03-06-2020, 01:00 PM
zjosh93
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I always recommend giving the cam companies a call. Their tech guys are usually pretty good and can help steer you to the right cam. They can help you cut through to the reality of your build, your parts, your driving style so you get the cam that matches and will work best with you can your combination. And I mean a call, on the phone. The online forms don't seem to be as good. Get a couple or few quotes and make your choice.
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post #4 of 9 Old 03-07-2020, 08:32 AM
V8GCZJ
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Quote:
any advice? what should i look for?
If you are building street/strip engine get rid of the kegger(it's made for low power) and get either the Hughes FI or mopar M1 if you can find one. Check out this link for info on intakes.
https://www.allpar.com/mopar/performance/manifolds.html
You may want upgrade the heads to one with better flow and larger valves. You also can get EQ and indy heads with the LA style bolt pattern for more options on intakes/exhaust. As said contact the the cam manufacture to help with the cam choice. Comp cams has just about anything you would need. https://www.compcams.com/ With a built engine you might want to upgrade the trans with a higher stall converter and some other goodies.
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post #5 of 9 Old 03-09-2020, 08:31 AM
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I would also look at Utawesome Performance in Utah. He specializes in modding the kegger intake for a huge performance gain. I know that this goes against the grain, but check him out. He makes a lot of sense.
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post #6 of 9 Old 03-14-2020, 06:00 AM Thread Starter
Mark-318-IT
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Hi All,
yeah it was me on FB.

yes, i'm still in Italy.

my RRs are not adjustable.

i'm only looking for a cam at this point.
i will be running a 5 spd manual in this, i don't want to granade it in the first 3 launches lol.
i'd rather keep the power down a little, at least at the biginning.

i'll take a look and contact the companies you mentioned, will come back on this as soon as i have infos.
thanks though.

98ZG318ltd:np242swap,shift kit,BOLT ONs,ome HD coils,aussie locker,dana30hp trussed
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post #7 of 9 Old 03-14-2020, 12:39 PM
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There hasn't been as much crap against Marty (utawsome performance) lately, IIRC Ryan even mentioned about a year ago about possible dyno- testing with the modified- runner/ plated kegger.
Just shortening the runners is a BIG NO (!!!) with the kegger, all it does is it kills low-to-midrange torque with zero gains in the higher range. From personal experience, it is one of the stupidest things one could do with a Magnum engine
Dunno if it would work with the plates, but with the Ryan tune, FI Airgap + 2 x 52mm machined TB, there was a HUGE difference in performance - both in low-mid torque and high RPM oomph compared to a stock TB and a modified-runner kegger with a stock tune.

As for the cam, I advice against Comp cams 20-744-9 and instead would recommend going with something a little "bigger". I have the 20-744-9, it is an improvement over the stock cam but I'd honestly want more valve lift, a bit more valve timing and probably 110 LSA instead of 112.
I'd honestly look at HipoTek cams, they are nice custom grinds and you can specify different LSA for your needs. Richards is a nice guy to deal with and is happy to help to choose a right cam.

I very very strongly suggest getting a tune from Ryan, even on a bone-stock 5.9 it will make a big difference.

1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX daily driver, 1.75" BB, 32" KM2s, HPD30 Eaton e-locker/D44a stock LSD, 4.56 gears, custom- fabbed tube bumpers and tube fenders,...


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1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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post #8 of 9 Old 03-15-2020, 07:35 AM
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I am looking at this cam, I have read what others have said about it after using it. It's a good choice for a bit better performance over the stock cam that you can use with or with out a tune. Need to upgrade the springs though.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-20-746-9
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post #9 of 9 Old 03-15-2020, 11:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by V8GCZJ View Post
I am looking at this cam, I have read what others have said about it after using it. It's a good choice for a bit better performance over the stock cam that you can use with or with out a tune. Need to upgrade the springs though.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-20-746-9
Friend has that cam on his 408 stroker. Not a "big" cam, but for a daily driver and slight power upgrades it's pretty nice - I would not run it without a tune. With 114 LSA it idles smooth and at least in theory it has a fairly wide powerband. Also has .506" of total valve lift, so it's an increase over stock cam or the milder 20-744-9 or 20-745-9.

I'm using the 20-744-9 in my 5.9, and with the engine mods I have I'm currently at about the same low-end torque as with a stock engine, but at 3000rpms and above there is a very notable difference in power and engine breaths very well up to 6000rpms where rev limiter is set.

1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX daily driver, 1.75" BB, 32" KM2s, HPD30 Eaton e-locker/D44a stock LSD, 4.56 gears, custom- fabbed tube bumpers and tube fenders,...


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1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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