2" BB Fab out of metal??? - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 17 Old 03-05-2012, 07:36 PM Thread Starter
hubbmatt
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2" BB Fab out of metal???

I've seen a lot of BB lifts made out of plastic or rubber, but are there any that are made out of metal? I work at a fab shop and can get steel at scrap prices and have an unlimited access to machinery. Was looking to make a 2" BB for my springs. Anything I need to know before this adventure? Any suggestions?

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post #2 of 17 Old 03-05-2012, 07:45 PM
dsmoll
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sounds like it would be noisy. you would need rubber or something to put in between the spacer and the coil...

1995 ZJ 5.2L V8 np242 selectrac stock D30 and D35-3.73 gears
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post #3 of 17 Old 03-05-2012, 07:46 PM
E-rok
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wont ride as smooth I would imagine, but I know they make metal spacers for trucks so who knows

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post #4 of 17 Old 03-05-2012, 09:27 PM
Buzz98zj
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If you do this let me know how it works.

98 5.9
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post #5 of 17 Old 03-05-2012, 09:30 PM
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Usually, the way youre supposed to install a BB is with the coil isolator in between the spacer and the coil, so if you did that, it probably wouldn't be too bad.

94 Grand Cherokee 5.2 33in. Federal Couragia M/T's on Procomp Steelies, np231 swap, IRO Hack n Tap SYE, Carolina Driveshaft, 4.5 in. lift, RE front upper/rear lower ca's, RC front lowers, Ironman rear uppers, IRO 4.5 coils in rear, 3.5 and 2" bb (no isolators) in front, Bilstein 5100's, Clayton/JKS adj. track bars, KOR rad support and SS, Magnaflow/Flowmaster exhaust, clear corners, custom light bar w/ Hella 500's


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post #6 of 17 Old 03-05-2012, 10:34 PM Thread Starter
hubbmatt
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I think I'm gonna fab up some prototypes. It's kind of hard not to at least try it. I just gotta slip the burn table operator a $10 spot and he'll burn up anything I want and drill it up on our cnc drills. I'll look around and see what I can find for a "gasket" to go between the spring and spacer. If anyone has any closeup pics of their spacers I can use to start off I'd be greatly appreciated
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post #7 of 17 Old 03-05-2012, 11:52 PM
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Do it. My friends have run 2-4" BB's (up front) fabbed out of metal before with no problems. People on here (who have never done it before) will probably tell you it won't work but if you do it right it will be just fine.

There is an offroad shop on ebay that fabs theirs out of metal. I have a 2" BB made out of Delrin (badass plastic) but it's not on my ZJ currently

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post #8 of 17 Old 03-06-2012, 12:12 AM
JrMechanic
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This is one of those pointless ideas. Why go through all the trouble to make your own inferior product, when you cane pick up a complete set of poly or delrin spacers for $60 bucks?

Want to swap an NP242 or NP231 into your ZJ? Here's how:

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post #9 of 17 Old 03-06-2012, 06:50 AM
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Time = money. Is your time making them worth less than what they sell for?

If you do it, just put the stock isolator between the metal and spring. Don't forget one side needs to be flat to clear the pinch seam in back.

'97 zj 5.2, some stuff, some other suff, and some things that even work sometimes.

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post #10 of 17 Old 03-06-2012, 05:59 PM
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My spacers are made of metal. I've had no issues with them, my rears even have extended coil retainers built in

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post #11 of 17 Old 03-06-2012, 06:13 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JrMechanic View Post
This is one of those pointless ideas. Why go through all the trouble to make your own inferior product, when you cane pick up a complete set of poly or delrin spacers for $60 bucks?
What makes you think that just because I'm making them instead of buying them their gonna be inferior??? I have access to 70 grade structural steel, 50 grade structural steel, aluminum, mild steel, cnc drills, cnc cutting torches/handheld cutting torches, taps/dies, the whole works... The reason I asked is cause I can get 2"-4" thick 70 grade steel for .16/lb and don't have to pay anything to use the equipment with the exception of the burn table operator. So, essentially, I can make a set of 4 for < $15. If I really wanted to take the lazy way out, I could slip the burn operator a few extra $ and he could just mock up a program and burn the entire pattern (holes and everything), I would just need to turn and polish it, but I'm also doing this to have fun with big, expensive tools and learn new things
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post #12 of 17 Old 03-06-2012, 07:21 PM
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They will be inferior because poly and delrin make much better spacers than steel. I'm all for fabricating custom parts, but a budget boost is one of those things that just plain isn't worth it when you can get something made specifically for this purpose at a relatively inexpensive price off the shelf.

Want to swap an NP242 or NP231 into your ZJ? Here's how:

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post #13 of 17 Old 03-07-2012, 02:18 AM
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If you make it it adds to the built not bought though. If you do it and it works I may try this on my trail ZJ and put my BB in my DD. I can probably get you some dimensions off my 1.75" BB if you need them. Could probably make a little print too.

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post #14 of 17 Old 03-07-2012, 08:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Devanzj View Post
My spacers are made of metal. I've had no issues with them, my rears even have extended coil retainers built in
Mine has poly ones on the front and aluminium ones on the rear (fitted with normal rubber isolators) and you wouldn't know that there was any difference.

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post #15 of 17 Old 03-07-2012, 09:05 AM
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I can't understand why metal would be inferior. After all the OEM spring seats are made of metal. As long as the original spring isolators are re-used it should be just fine.

The only downside to metal would be the possibility of squeaking at the top. You could either tack weld them in place or use some type of rubber or poly gasket, which would be really easy to make.

Even though it's an interesting project, my BB was $53 delivered from an ebay vendor. That's a lot of work to save $38, because I'll be suprised if you have less than 4 hours in em after all the measuring, welding, cutting, etc.

Now if you're sneaking it in on company time that's another story

If I was making a set from scratch I'd seriously consider raised spring mounts on the axle instead of duplicating an upper spacer. The whole point of a spacer is no welding/fabrication required. Once you're willing to weld and fabricate the axle end of the spring is a viable option, and may be easier. You'd also solve the bumpstop issue by raising the lower mount

good luck
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