1998 5.9 Build Up- Couple of questions - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 6 Old 01-08-2017, 10:12 PM Thread Starter
Ace14
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1998 5.9 Build Up- Couple of questions

Hey guys,

I just picked up a clean 5.9 for 1200 bucks. Runs and drives great but the rear dif makes noise from the pinion bearing. Rather than rebuild the crappy 44a I am going to put a trussed 8.8. I am picking a local one up for 200 with the 3.73s to match and a limited slip for 200. Add 375 for the truss and I will be just below 600 which to me seems pretty good and a better option than the 44a. I have a set of 33 inch KM2s on my stock rubicon 16s that I am going to use with the jeep as well. The only thin I have not decided on 100 percent is the lift kit.

I want to replace all the track bars, control arms, shocks, etc since its all original with 160k on it. I was looking at the IRO 4.5 premium kit or the 5.5 kit with the front long arms. Honestly this jeep is not going to be wheeled much as I have my rubicon for that. This will be a nice driving winter truck for me or the wifey to take when needed. It will go upstate or to the beach once in a while. Any experience with this kit? Any recommendations other than spending $1500 on this?

Also at what point do I need to worry about drive shafts on this truck? I know with my tj it was 3inches max without swapping them out. Ideally I would like to leave the stock stuff in, even the 249 works perfectly......

Thanks,

Kyle


2003 Inca Gold Rubicon-Metal Cloak Armor, Currie Suspension, 35s.
1998 5.9 ZJ -DD/ work in progress
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post #2 of 6 Old 01-08-2017, 11:20 PM
kg6mov
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You can go up to 6" without having issues due to driveshaft angle, past that too depending on wheel base.

I don't know why you would want to run 33's on stock ratio, it really sucks.

If it's not a wheeler then why do you need 33's? If you go up to 4.5" the CA angles are going to suck, you suddenly find yourself in the territory of wanting long arms for the ride quality, on a daily?


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1984 F250, 460 BB, T19, work truck/future tow pig
1987 Mercedes 300D Turbo, the diesel daily, 30mpg in style

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post #3 of 6 Old 01-09-2017, 09:24 AM
LordHobbit
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Reconsider sticking to 31s or bone stock. I ran 30s on stock suspension and aftermarket wheels with no problems for several years. It wheeled fine that way too.

if you go up to 31s, try the OME 2" lift springs. You can contact Kolak and he can help you with all the lift components you need.

What truss are you going to go with on the 8.8?

93 red ZJ 196k 4.0. Spent more money than I should have ...
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post #4 of 6 Old 01-09-2017, 09:53 AM Thread Starter
Ace14
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The reason for adding the lift is that by doing so I replace every worn out piece under the jeep. The only think left to replace would be ball joints and u joints and all of those are solid. The reason I want 33s is because I have a set of $1300 BFGs with like 10k miles on them that I have no use for at all. They are on really nice rubi wheels ready to go so for me its a free set vs buying 31s or 30s somewhere........
Also I was looking at the Artec truss kits for the jeep. My end goal is to be into this jeep for around 3k. It will be a mint driving 5.9 with all new stuff. Worst case I will always get my money back when I am done with it.....I may just keep it though as I really love the old ZJs and this one is clean.

2003 Inca Gold Rubicon-Metal Cloak Armor, Currie Suspension, 35s.
1998 5.9 ZJ -DD/ work in progress
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post #5 of 6 Old 01-09-2017, 01:19 PM
kg6mov
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If you're not going to regear, 33's is a bad plan for a daily driver. It puts the trans in a bad spot, and while the 5.9 will still get up and go, it's gonna perform worse than a 4.slow on stock tires, and it's gon be thiiiiiiiiirsty. Methinks you're not gonna regear and lift the jeep for under 3k.

Sell the tires with or without the wheels and buy some 31's or trade them for somebody who put 10k on their 31's and wants to go bigger. You can do all new stock arms to refresh the suspension, the geometry change from going up to 4.5" is going to hurt handling more than refreshing the parts is going to help it. 4.5" and 33's can really be the suck when it comes to drivability. You'll be at the point where you really ought to be doing things like the WJ knuckles for better brakes and steering, but if you do that you really need to move you track bar, at which point your sway bar mounts need to move. Or you can try to get something like the IRO OTK kit to give you better steering geometry without the need to relocate the track bar, but then you haven't addressed the brakes, and your steering angles are still pretty bad.

How much are you willing to trim? Even at 4.5" you need to do trimming to have uptravel with 33's.

You seem intent on screwing yourself in the name of using something that isn't a good fit for your intended use. You'd be dumping a lot of money into a lift that is just going to bring the problems.


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1984 F250, 460 BB, T19, work truck/future tow pig
1987 Mercedes 300D Turbo, the diesel daily, 30mpg in style

Quote:
Originally Posted by Texas ZJ1 View Post
I heard someone yell "mall crawler" from the back porch. I'll go see who said that. Be right back.
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post #6 of 6 Old 01-09-2017, 03:13 PM Thread Starter
Ace14
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Im open to not using the 33s if its that much of a hassle. I am about doing something right the first time. With my TJ all I did was add 3inches of lift and 1 ton stearing and it drives awesome. I have 35s on the stock 4.10s and it is driveable just not a racecar. Isnt the suspension geometry similar to the TJs? You think it would be worse than my TJ?

Im ok with trimming if I need to. This is not my first rodeo. I had a 5 speed ZJ with a 2inch BB and 31s and several TJs before that. I just like this jeep and plan on keeping it so I want to do it right.

2003 Inca Gold Rubicon-Metal Cloak Armor, Currie Suspension, 35s.
1998 5.9 ZJ -DD/ work in progress
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